ZIMBABVE – ZIMBABWE

Drvo baobab na Slonovim brdima-A baobab tree on Elephant Hills

Drvo baobab na Slonovim brdima-A baobab tree on Elephant Hills

Duga nad vodopadima-A rainbow above the falls

Duga nad vodopadima-A rainbow above the falls

Dzinovska kornjaca-A giant turtle

Dzinovska kornjaca-A giant turtle

Filip na slonu-Filip on top of an elephant

Filip na slonu-Filip on top of an elephant

Lavovi poziraju na steni-Lions posing on the rock

Lavovi poziraju na steni-Lions posing on the rock

Siroki osmeh lokalne devojke-A wide smile of a local girl

Siroki osmeh lokalne devojke-A wide smile of a local girl

Spomenik Dejvidu Livingstonu-A monument to David Livingstone

Spomenik Dejvidu Livingstonu-A monument to David Livingstone

Ulicna pijaca suvenira u glavnom gradu-A souvenir street market in the capital

Ulicna pijaca suvenira u glavnom gradu-A souvenir street market in the capital

Viktorijini vodopadi-Victoria Falls

Viktorijini vodopadi-Victoria Falls

Africke visespratnice-African skyscrapers

Africke visespratnice-African skyscrapers

Anglikanska crkva u Harareu-Anglican church in Harare

Anglikanska crkva u Harareu-Anglican church in Harare

Ispred mene je “najveća vodena zavesa na svetu” preko koje se čitavom
dužinom pruža duga. To su Viktorijini vodopadi čija se voda, sa visine od
preko sto metara, obrušava u provaliju, a zatim mirno, reka Zambezi
nastavlja svoj put ka Indijskom okeanu. Vodopadi su prirodna granica izmedju
Zambije i Zimbabvea, a brojna ostrva, na 1.7 km širokom zambijskom delu
reke, čine da se sedam manjih vodopada sliva u jedan veliki, što se najbolje
može videti u sušnoj sezoni. Tada je manje vode, pa su vodopadi razdvojeni,
ali i tada svojim prodornim hukom zaslužuju naziv koji im je dalo lokalno
pleme – “Dim koji grmi”. Iako nisu ni najveći, ni najdublji, ipak se
ubrajaju u Sedam prirodnih svetskih čuda.
Prvi Evropljanin koji ih je ugledao bio je škotski misionar i istraživač
centralne Afrike, doktor Dejvid Livingston, koji im je dao ime prema imenu
svoje kraljice Viktorije. Možda je prvo srpsko dete, koje je ovde selo na
slona, bio moj sin Filip, a ja sam se u tom trenutku osećao kao Livingston i
svi afrički istraživači. Možda sam upravo video jednog novog istraživača,
ili sam to bar veoma želeo.
Harare je glavni grad, sa prijatnom klimom i mirnom kolonijalnom atmosferom,
koja se oseća iza dugih ograda, koje kriju ogromna imanja belih
zemljoposednika i njihove vile u viktorijanskom stilu. Dugi nizovi
ljubičastih krošnji jacaranda drveća u aveniji Montagu i ogromne bugenvilije
čine samo deo prirodne raskoši ovog grada. Bivša Južna Rodezija i glavni
grad Solzberi skoro do osamdesetih godina prošlog veka bili su jedan od
sinonima za aparthejd, dok Robert Mugabe nije sve promenio i postao
predsednik države i nacionalni heroj širom Afrike. Posle trideset godina
vlasti, čula za demokratijom ipak malo otupe usled stalne želje da se ona
očuva po svaku cenu, a zemlja postaje poprište političkih borbi i borbe
protiv kolere. Sva se idila odjednom ruši, ali i postepeno vraća. Kao jedan
od sinonima afričke slobode, ova ogromna i lepa zemlja mora nastaviti da se
bori i potom uživa u onome za šta se sama izborila.
To se popularno naziva demokratijom afričkog tipa.

Septembar 1999.
________________________________________________________

I stand in front of the world’s largest ‘water curtain’ the length of which
a rainbow sprawls. These are Victoria Waterfalls and the water which
precipitates from more than 100m high into an abyss, continues calmly as the
River Zambezi into the Indian Ocean. The waterfalls form a natural border
between Zambia and Zimbabwe and many islands on the Zambian part of the
river, which is 1.7km wide, help direct the water of 7 different falls into
a huge one; this is best observed during the drought season. There is less
water then so the falls are visible in separate streams, but even then with
the tremendous roar they make they deserve the name given by a local tribe:
‘The smoke that thunders’. Even though they are not the largest or the
deepest, they are still counted as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the
World.
The first European person that saw them was a Scottish missionary and
explorer of Central Africa, Dr David Livingstone, who named them after his
Queen Victoria. Perhaps the first Serbian child who climbed an elephant here
was my son Filip and at that moment I felt like Livingstone and all other
African explorers. Perhaps, in my son, I just saw a brand new explorer, or
at least I wanted to see one.
Harare is the capital city, with a pleasant climate and tranquil colonial
atmosphere emanating from behind long fences which hide from view huge
estates of white landowners and their villas in the colonial style. Long
rows of purple jacaranda trees in Montague Avenue and huge bougainvillea are
only part of the rich natural beauties of this city. The former Southern
Rhodesia and its capital Salisbury were synonymous with Apartheid until the
1980s; then Robert Mugabe changed everything around and became the country’s
President and an African national hero. After his 30 years in power, the
sense of democracy is not sharp anymore and is led by a continuous desire to
preserve it at any cost; so the country is torn by a political power
struggle and a fight against cholera. All the ideals fall away and then are
gradually recaptured. As a symbol of African freedom this beautiful and vast
country must continue to fight and then enjoy the fruit of its hard won
battles.
In lay terms this is called ‘Democracy of the African variety’.

September 1999

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