ZELENORTSKA OSTRVA – CAPE VERDE – CABO VERDE

Fogo vino-Vinho do Fogo-Fogo wine

Fogo vino-Vinho do Fogo-Fogo wine

Na vulkansom tlu-On the volcanic soil

Na vulkansom tlu-On the volcanic soil

Nacionalni park Fogo-Fogo National Park

Nacionalni park Fogo-Fogo National Park

Popodnevna radost na plazi - Afternoon joy at the beach

Popodnevna radost na plazi – Afternoon joy at the beach

Popodnevna radost na plazi-Afternoon joy at the beach

Popodnevna radost na plazi-Afternoon joy at the beach

Raznobojni camci-Colourful boats

Raznobojni camci-Colourful boats

Sao Filipe, centre

Sao Filipe, centre

Stara crkvica na ostrvu Sal-An old church on the Sal Island

Stara crkvica na ostrvu Sal-An old church on the Sal Island

Stara kolonijalna zgrada-An old colonial building

Stara kolonijalna zgrada-An old colonial building

Sveze ociscene tune-Fresh tuna fish

Sveze ociscene tune-Fresh tuna fish

Upozorenje-A warning

Upozorenje-A warning

Uvek opusteni-Always relaxed

Uvek opusteni-Always relaxed

Zid galerije-A gallery wall

Zid galerije-A gallery wall

Zivot pod vulkanom - Life under the volcano

Zivot pod vulkanom – Life under the volcano

Zivot pod vulkanom- Life under the volcano

Zivot pod vulkanom- Life under the volcano

Zivot pod vulkanom-Life under the volcano

Zivot pod vulkanom-Life under the volcano

Cekajuci dnevni ulov-Waiting for a daily catch

Cekajuci dnevni ulov-Waiting for a daily catch

Dnevni ulov-A daily catch

Dnevni ulov-A daily catch

Kakva je samo razlika u izgovoru imena ove zemlje na mom jeziku i jeziku njenog naroda. Samo ću nabrojati ostrva onako kako izvorno zvuče na melodičnom portugalsko – kreolskom jeziku: Sal, Boavista, Santiago, Maio, Fogo, Brava, São Nicolau, Santa Luzia, São Vicente i Santo Antão. Ali to ipak nema prizvuk onog izgovora kojim bi, već legendarna, Cesária Évora svako od tih imena unela u neku od svojih pesama, kojima je po celom svetu pronela slavu ove zemlje. Kako bi svet inače znao za ovaj arhipelag i, u setnim tonovima njenih pesama, pitao se kakav to narod tamo živi kad može imati takvu muziku? Pa takav isti narod kao što su i njene pesme, sa onim što sadrži prizvuk svih pesama na portugalskom, a što bi se nazvalo skoro neprevodivom rečju saudade, koja se  neprestano čuje. To je i tuga i seta, i bol za nečim izgubljenim, i, što bismo mi rekli, „žal za mladost“, žal za neostvarenom ljubavlju, žal za životom koji prolazi na jednom, tako dalekom i siromašnom mestu kao što je Cabo Verde, dok se, ipak, može provesti na nekom drugom, mnogo bogatijem. O svemu tome peva Cesária i njeni sledbenici Tito Paris, Teofilo Chantre, Herminia… i svi drugi koji svetom prenose te tužne i tako prepoznatljive melodije.
Lepota je u jednostavnosti ovih ostrva, od kojih se svako razlikuje od onog susednog, kao da pripadaju raznim delovima sveta. Sal je kao pustinja sa plažama koja liči na Namibiju, Santo Antao je zeleno skoro kao tropska džungla, Sao Visente liči na portugalsku provinciju, Fogo je potpuno u vulkanskom pepelu. I upravo te raznolikosti doprinose izazovu za lutanjima po ostrvima, jer se na svakom drugačije osećate, ali je muzički ritam uvek isti.
Lokalnom stanovništvu, ipak, ne treba mnogo povoda za zabavu. Dovoljno je da samo neko pokrene ritam. To može biti i biciklista koji obilazi ostrvo, noseći dva ogromna zvučnika iz kojih se čuje melodija, koja, neznano kako, uvek prodire duboko u dušu i vodi misli i telo u lagani ritam. Tako se kreću i na plaži, i na doku, i, na kraju, svi plešu i raduju se, i stari i mladi, i deca i psi. Sve se pretvara u jedan lagani trans sa ponavljanjem ritma, što traje satima. Možda su i tužni, ali znaju da se raduju.
Najveći deo ostrva Fogo je od vulkanskog peska, a sledeća erupcija može biti već sutra, jer je prethodna bila nedavno. To, međutim, ni malo ne uzbuđuje stanovnike niti bilo ko  pokušava da negde ode. Ljudi su ovde srećni i proizvode jedno od najboljih i najgušćih crnih vina koje sam ikada probao.  Vinho do Fogo. Toliko je dobro da sam čak odande, preko pola Afrike i Evrope, nosio ceo karton bez ijedne razbijene flaše. Radovao sam mu se i delio ga sa prijateljima, nekada sebično, priznajem, znajući da ga možda nikada više neću probati. Nema ga ni u Portugalu.
Nema ga nigde, samo na jednom od najlepših mesta koje me je zauvek osvojilo i kome želim da se vratim, praćen ritmovima pevačice svih vremena i kraljevskog imena –  Cesária Évora.

Jul 2007.
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What a difference in pronunciation of the name of this country in my language and in their own! I will just list the names of the islands as they sound in the melodious Portuguese-Creole language: Sal, Boavista, Santiago, Maio, Fogo, Brava, São Nicolau, Santa Luzia, São Vicente and Santo Antão.Yet I still cannot invoke the accent with which the legendary Cesária Évora would mention each of them in her songs, making her country famous around the world. How would the world know about this archipelago if not through the blue tones of her tunes; the world is asking: ‘What people live out there when they make this kind of music?’ Well, the people are the same as her songs, full of saudade, an almost untranslatable word, often heard, and present in every song. It is sorrow and sadness, a pain from a loss of something, and as we would say ‘the sorrow of youth gone’; it could also be the sorrow of an unfullfiled love, the sorrow because life is passing in such a remote and poor place like Cabo Verde, whereas it could be spent somewhere else where there is more beauty and riches. Cesária sings about all that; so do her successors such as Tito Paris, Teofilo Chantre, Herminia…and all the others who spread these typical sad melodies around the world.
The beauty of these islands is in their simplicity; every island is different from the next one, as though they belong to different parts of the world. Sal is like a desert with beaches, resembling Namibia, Santo Antão is as green as a tropical jungle, São Vicente looks like Portuguese countryside, Fogo is entirely covered in volcanic ash. The variety is what attracts you to stroll around these islands because you feel differently on each, and yet the rhythm of the music is the same everywhere.
However local people do not need much persuasion to start entertaining themselves. It is enough for someone to start the music. This could even be a cyclist who is riding around the island carrying two huge loudspeakers playing a melody which, unknowingly, penetrates the soul, taking the mind and the body with its easy rhythm. This is how they move on the beach, on the pier, and in the end everyone is dancing and being happy, the old and the young, the children and the dogs. Everything merges then into a sort of trance with rhythmical repetition, lasting for hours. Maybe these people are sad, but they know how to be happy.
The largest part of Fogo island is made of volcanic ash and the next erruption can be as soon as tomorrow, because the last one was not so long ago. Yet the locals do not seem to care about it, nor does anyone think of going somewhere else. People here are happy and produce one of the best full bodied red wines I have ever tried. Vinho do Fogo. It is so good that I carried a carton of it, without breaking a single bottle, across half of Africa and Europe. I enjoyed it and shared it with friends, sometimes, I have to admit, a bit stingily, knowing that I may never get to drink it again. You cannot find it in Portugal. You cannot find it anywhere, only in one of the most beautiful places that has captured my heart, the place I want to go back to accompanied by the rhythms of the singer for all times and a royal name – Cesária Évora.

July 2007.

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