VENECUELA – VENEZUELA

Ejndzelovi vodopadi-Angel Falls

Ejndzelovi vodopadi-Angel Falls

Grobnica Simona Bolivara - Bolivar's tomb at the National Pantheon

Grobnica Simona Bolivara – Bolivar’s tomb at the National Pantheon

Grobnica Simona Bolivara-Bolivar's tomb at the National Pantheon

Grobnica Simona Bolivara-Bolivar’s tomb at the National Pantheon

Kolonijalna arhitektura malog mesta-The colonial architecture of El Hatillo

Kolonijalna arhitektura malog mesta-The colonial architecture of El Hatillo

Lokalni suveniri i maske-Local souvenirs and masks

Lokalni suveniri i maske-Local souvenirs and masks

Memorijalni centar posvecen Bolivaru i drugim istorijskim figurama-National Pantheon of Venezuela

Memorijalni centar posvecen Bolivaru i drugim istorijskim figurama-National Pantheon of Venezuela

Moj brat Milan na putovanju kroz Venecuelu-My brother Milan travelling through the country

Moj brat Milan na putovanju kroz Venecuelu-My brother Milan travelling through the country

Pogled na Karakas-A view of Caracas

Pogled na Karakas-A view of Caracas

Spomenik oslobodiocu Simonu Bolivaru u jednom malom mestu-Bolivar's monument in El Hatillo

Spomenik oslobodiocu Simonu Bolivaru u jednom malom mestu-Bolivar’s monument in El Hatillo

U unutrasnjosti zemlje-Somewhere in the countryside

U unutrasnjosti zemlje-Somewhere in the countryside

Zgrada Univerziteta-Central University of Venezuela

Zgrada Univerziteta-Central University of Venezuela

Chavecito ili mali Hugo Chavez je lutka aktuelnog predsednika ove zemlje, u
vojnoj uniformi i sa crvenom beretkom na glavi, koji podignutom rukom i
uzbuđenim glasom uzvikuje revolucionarne parole, po uzoru na svog učitelja
Fidela Kastra. U pozadini se čuju mase sledbenika koje to glasno odobravaju,
dajući tako bezrezervnu podršku svom vođi. Sve je to snimljeno i postavljeno
u kinesku lutku, koja se prodaje u slobodnoj zoni aerodroma ostrva
Margarita, jedne od najatraktivnijih turističkih destinacija u ovoj zemlji.
Ostrvo je smešteno severno od obale Venecuele, zajedno sa još nekoliko
tropskih arhipelaga. Dok prolazim sa lutkom koja drži govor, osećam na sebi
začuđene poglede putnika u avionu.
Prirodne lepote ove zemlje su beskonačne i još nedovoljno ispitane, kao što
su guste džungle naseljene indijancima, ili čuveni vodopadi Džejmsa
Ejndžela, od kojih se jedan obrušava sa visine od približno jednog
kilometra, pa se voda skoro uopšte ne vidi jer se pretvara u oblak finih
kapljica, koji se lagano spušta na čitavo područje. Sećam se koliko im se
moj brat divio ovim krajevima, tokom davne ekspedicije u bespućima
Venecuele, Amazonije i Gvajane.
U ovoj zemlji sve je u znaku oslobodioca Simona Bolivara, čak je i sama
zemlja nazvana bolivarskom republikom. Današnji oslobodioci Južne Amerike,
predvođeni Čavesom i Kastrom, već su ostvarili novu koaliciju koja se lagano
širi kao antiglobalistički protest. Nekima to deluje simpatično, kao
povratak revolucionarnim vremenima, dok je drugi shvataju kao ozbiljnu
pretnju nekim političkim trendovima na ovim prostorima. Južna Amerika se ne
može lako prisvajati i iskorišćavati, posebno bogate zemlje kao što je
Venecuela, a koja, pritom, još poseduje i naftu.
Lutajući nebezbednim ulicama glavnog grada Karakasa, sagledavam i drugu
stranu te populističke politike obećanja i nade. To su zgrade okovane
rešetkama na prozorima i ljudi koji godinama retko izlaze na ulicu.
Venecuelanske lepotice, ipak, pomalo ublažavaju tu stvarnost i smelo se
prikazuju u punom sjaju svojih oblina na plažama, modnim pistama i izborima
za mis. Rezultat radnji, postupaka i parada lepotica u nacionalnoj trci za
neku od titula mis – zemlje, kontinenta, univerzuma – jeste nova reč ili
pojam koji sve to objedinjuje – misologija. Lepota devojaka iz Venecuele je
poznata, ali takođe i kolonijalna lepota starih delova grada kojima one
šetaju u ritmu salse, dok ih prate zvona sa katedrala i radoznali pogledi
stranaca. Divna je Venecuela u tom svetlu.
Koalicija Čaves – Kastro – Maradona – Kusturica samo joj daje novi šarm,
onaj revolucionarni, čiji je glas ponekad tako potreban ovom svetu.

Oktobar 2004.
_____________________________________________________

Chavecito or a miniature Hugo Chavez, is a doll in a military uniform with a
red beret on its head, representing the current President of this country,
who waving his hand declaims in a fervent voice revolutionary slogans he
learned from his teacher Fidel Castro. In the background you can hear the
masses of people loudly cheering thus giving unconditional support to their
leader. Of course all this is pre-recorded and fitted into a Chinese doll
which is on sale in Duty Free shops at Margarita Island Airport. One of the
most attractive tourist spots in this country, the island is situated north
of the Venezuelan coast along with a couple more tropical archipelagos.
While I walk by, holding the talking doll, I can sense the astonished looks
that fellow passengers on the flight are casting my way.
This country’s natural beauties are infinite and not yet explored enough,
such as the dense jungles inhabited by an indigenous Indian population or
the famous James Angel Waterfalls; one of the falls is coming down from
approximately one kilometre height so that its water is barely visible as it
transforms itself into a mist made of fine droplets, slowly descending on
the entire region. I remember how much my brother admired them during an
expedition a long time ago when he explored the wilderness of Venezuela,
Amazon rainforest and Guyana.
In this country everything is under the auspices of Simon Bolivar, the
liberator, even the country called itself the Bolivarian Republic of
Venezuela. Today’s liberators of Latin America, led by Chavez and Castro,
have already developed a coalition which is growing slowly but surely,
spreading like an anti-globalisation protest. Some people find it likeable
as though it was a return to the revolutionary times, whereas others see
this coalition as a serious threat to certain political trends in this
region. South America cannot be appropriated and exploited so easily,
especially the rich countries such as Venezuela, which on top of everything
possesses oil as well.
Wandering the unsafe streets of the capital Caracas, I can see the other
side of the populist politics based on promise and hope. I can see buildings
with barred windows and people who rarely get out into the streets for
years. Yet, this rough reality is somewhat eased by the Venezuelan beauties;
they bravely show off their curves in their full glory, on beaches, catwalks
and beauty contests. The result of all these procedures and doings, parades
of beauties competing in the national race for one of the titles – Miss
Venezuela, Miss South America, Miss Universum – is a new concept and a new
word – ‘missology’. Venezuela is known for the beauty of its women, but also
for the beauty of its old towns built in the colonial style, where these
beautiful woman walk in the rhythm of salsa, accompanied by chiming of the
cathedral bells and curious looks of passers-by. In this light, Venezuela is
just splendid.

Chavez – Castro – Maradona – Kusturica coalition just gives it new charm,
the revolutionary one, whose voice is sometimes much needed in this world.

October 2004.

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