VELIKA BRITANIJA – GREAT BRITAIN

Bakingemska palata-Buckingham Palace

Bakingemska palata-Buckingham Palace

Big Ben, Vestminsterska palata i most - Big Ben, Westminster Palace and Westminster Bridge

Big Ben, Vestminsterska palata i most – Big Ben, Westminster Palace and Westminster Bridge

Big Ben, Vestminsterska palata i most-Big Ben, Westminster Palace and Westminster Bridge

Big Ben, Vestminsterska palata i most-Big Ben, Westminster Palace and Westminster Bridge

Centar Edinburga-The centre of Edinburgh

Centar Edinburga-The centre of Edinburgh

Cuvar-A guardian

Cuvar-A guardian

Edinburski zamak-Edinburgh Castle

Edinburski zamak-Edinburgh Castle

Londonsko oko ili Milenijumski tocak-The London Eye is the tallest Ferris wheel in the Western Hemisphere

Londonsko oko ili Milenijumski tocak-The London Eye is the tallest Ferris wheel in the Western Hemisphere

Mali hotel u unutrasnjosti-A small hotel in the countryside

Mali hotel u unutrasnjosti-A small hotel in the countryside

Pogled na Edinburg i Severni most-A view of Edinburgh and the North Bridge

Pogled na Edinburg i Severni most-A view of Edinburgh and the North Bridge

Pokretni most na Temzi kraj Tauera-Tower Bridge on the River Thames in London

Pokretni most na Temzi kraj Tauera-Tower Bridge on the River Thames in London

Prirodnjacki muzej u Londonu - Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjacki muzej u Londonu – Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjacki muzej u Londonu- Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjacki muzej u Londonu- Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjacki muzej u Londonu-Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjacki muzej u Londonu-Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjaki muzej u Londonu -Natural History Museum in London

Prirodnjaki muzej u Londonu -Natural History Museum in London

Proslava u Skotskoj-A celebration in Scotland

Proslava u Skotskoj-A celebration in Scotland

Protesti ispred britanskog Parlamenta-Protests in front of the Palace of Westminster

Protesti ispred britanskog Parlamenta-Protests in front of the Palace of Westminster

Sediste britanske tajne sluzbe u Londonu-MI6 in London

Sediste britanske tajne sluzbe u Londonu-MI6 in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu - Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu – Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu -Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu -Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu- Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu- Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu-Trafalgar Square in London

Trafalgar skver u Londonu-Trafalgar Square in London

Zamak Skon u kome su krunisani skotski kraljevi-Scone Palace-the crowning place of the Kings of Scots

Zamak Skon u kome su krunisani skotski kraljevi-Scone Palace-the crowning place of the Kings of Scots

Velika Britanija je poznata kao Engleska, ali je najpravilnije Ujedinjeno
Kraljevstvo Velike Britanije i Severne Irske, gde se još svrstavaju Škotska
i Vels. Ko bi do kraja razumeo Engleze, kad verovatno ni sami sebe potpuno
ne razumeju, odnosno samo se pretvaraju da su se razumeli. Mi tada kažemo:
prave se Englezima. Kad se za nešto misli da jeste, a u stvari nije, ili bi
možda moglo biti kada bi se pravilno razumelo, što u stvari i nije baš do
kraja mogućno jer nije sve onako kako izgleda, mogla bi se tako definisati
celokupna britanska kolonijalna politika. Jer ako bi se Englezi pitali, svet
je i dalje jedna velika njihova kolonija. Iako mnogi od njih ne znaju za
druga ostrva osim njihovog, sebe ipak s pravom smatraju središtem sveta. Ali
kad ste jednom zaista posedovali pola sveta, a tradicija vam teče u krvi,
teško je odreći se takvog nasleđa.
Ako zaboravimo tu englesku nadmenost i kolonijalnu politiku, koja je svetsko
bogatstvo dovela u njihove muzeje, zamkove i privatne kolekcije, ipak ostaje
toliko toga za divljenje u jednom kulturnom i uopšte duhovnom ambijentu te
zemlje. Ogroman je broj prepoznatljivih simbola koje sigurno ne poseduje ni
jedna druga zemlja, a dovoljan je i samo njihov jezik, koji je danas
univerzalan.
Volim London kao centar sveta, divim se starim engleskim gradovima (ovde je
sve staro), ali ipak su mi, prema mentalitetu, bliži Škotlanđani. Kao da
potiču sa Mediterana, sa puno onog izvornog, a ne engleskog humora. Skloni
su da preteraju u svemu, posebno u piću, ali poseduju neki šarm u tome, kao
i odlike pravog prijateljstva. Velšani i Severni Irci su im slični, ali za
nijansu umereniji. To su narodi Ujedinjenog kraljevstva. Drugi narodi su svi
narodi sveta koji ovde žive i sigurno ne postoji ni jedna svetska
nacionalnost koje ovde nema. To je, ipak, za divljenje. Iako su bili često
pod represivnom britanskom kolonijalnom vladavinom, oni ipak svi hrle pod
kraljičine skute. Sve su zaboravili, genetski kod izbrisali i, evo ih ovde,
svi narodi na okupu! Kako da se onda ipak ne divite tim Englezima koji na
volšeban način i dalje sve drže pod kontrolom? Rekao bi Šekspir ˝Kako vam
drago˝.
Englezima je ionako svejedno.

Jun 1975.
_________________________________________________________

Great Britain is widely known as England, but the most correct term is the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, which of course
comprises Scotland and Wales. Who is going to understand the English all the
way when, most likely, they do not understand themselves fully either, or
rather, they just pretend they do? Then in Serbian we would say for people
like that -‘they pretend to be English’. The essence of their spirit, also
underlying the British colonial politics, could be described as something
that is deemed to be in a certain way, but actually it is not, or could be
if it was understood properly….however that in itself is not entirely
possible because things are not always as they seem. Because, if it was down
to the English, the world would still be their huge colony. Even though many
of them do not know about any other island but their own, they still rightly
consider it the centre of the world. However, if once in the past you did
possess half the world, and this strong tradition is coursing through your
veins, then it is truly difficult to renounce such a heritage. If we put
aside this English arrogance and colonialism which have brought the riches
of the world into their museums, castles and private collections, there
remains so much to be admired in the cultural and spiritual domain of this
country. The number of symbols representing this country is vast and they
cannot be found anywhere else, and the English language is the universal
language of the world.
I love London as the capital of the world and I admire the old cities in
England (everything is old here!), but mentality-wise I feel more akin to
the Scots. As though they have originated in the Mediterranean, they are
full of natural humour, which is different from the English one, and they
tend to be excessive in everything, especially drinking. But they carry it
off with charm; and they are great friends. The Welsh and the Northern Irish
are similar, but slightly more restrained. They are the peoples of the
United Kingdom. The other peoples that live here come from all over the
world and probably there isn’t a single nationality that is not represented
here. That is to be admired! Even though they were often oppressed by the
British colonial rule, they have still all came running to Britain
scrambling for the Queen’s protection. They have forgotten everything,
deleted their genetic code and here they are – everyone together! How can
you then not admire these Englishmen who, as if by magic, still keep
everything under control? As Shakespeare would say: ‘As you like it’.
Anyway, the English do not care either way, not really.

June 1975

 

 

Gibraltar – Gibraltar

Crkva Svetog srca-The Sacred Heart Church

Crkva Svetog srca-The Sacred Heart Church

Engleske telefonske govornice i mapa Gibraltara na glavnom trgu-English telephone booths and map of Gibraltar on the Casamates Square

Engleske telefonske govornice i mapa Gibraltara na glavnom trgu-English telephone booths and map of Gibraltar on the Casamates Square

Gibraltarski majmuni - The Rock apes

Gibraltarski majmuni – The Rock apes

Gibraltarski majmuni- The Rock apes

Gibraltarski majmuni- The Rock apes

Gibraltarski majmuni-The Rock apes

Gibraltarski majmuni-The Rock apes

Gibraltarski Parlament sa bistom Dzona Mekintosa na istoimenom trgu-The House of Assembly with the bust of John Mackintosh on The Piazza

Gibraltarski Parlament sa bistom Dzona Mekintosa na istoimenom trgu-The House of Assembly with the bust of John Mackintosh on The Piazza

Gibraltarski Parlament sa bistom generala Dzona Dona-The House of Assembly with the bust of Sir George Don

Gibraltarski Parlament sa bistom generala Dzona Dona-The House of Assembly with the bust of Sir George Don

Gradska kuca-the City Hall at The Piazza

Gradska kuca-the City Hall at The Piazza

Katedrala Svete Marije-The Cathedral of Saint Mary the Crowned

Katedrala Svete Marije-The Cathedral of Saint Mary the Crowned

Katedrala Svetog trojstva - The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Katedrala Svetog trojstva – The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Katedrala Svetog trojstva-The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Katedrala Svetog trojstva-The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Mesto ukrstanja piste sa autoputem - A crossroad of the runway and the highway

Mesto ukrstanja piste sa autoputem – A crossroad of the runway and the highway

Mesto ukrstanja piste sa autoputem- A crossroad of the runway and the highway

Mesto ukrstanja piste sa autoputem- A crossroad of the runway and the highway

Mesto ukrstanja piste sa autoputem-A crossroad of the runway and the highway

Mesto ukrstanja piste sa autoputem-A crossroad of the runway and the highway

Pogled na pistu i Gibraltarsku stenu-A view of the runway and The Rock of Gibraltar

Pogled na pistu i Gibraltarsku stenu-A view of the runway and The Rock of Gibraltar

Spomenik na ulazu u grad-The monument passing the airport

Spomenik na ulazu u grad-The monument passing the airport

Spomenik palima u Velikom ratu i Ruski topovi-The City War Memorial and two Russian Guns from the Crimean War

Spomenik palima u Velikom ratu i Ruski topovi-The City War Memorial and two Russian Guns from the Crimean War

Svetionik-Europa Point Lighthouse

Svetionik-Europa Point Lighthouse

Top od sto tona-100 Ton Gun Napier Battery

Top od sto tona-100 Ton Gun Napier Battery

U glavnoj ulici-At the main street

U glavnoj ulici-At the main street

Još jedna jabuka razdora, u ovom slučaju između Engleza i Španaca. Iako ih imaju previše, oni im i dalje veoma znače, jer kada su jednom posedovali pola sveta, ovi ‘ostaci’ kao što su Gibraltar ili Foklandska ostrva, makar bili i na drugom kraju planete, predstavlju nešto za šta se Imperija i dalje čvrsto drži i ne dâ drugima.

Nekada od presudnog strateškog značaja Gibraltarska stena je danas samo uspomena na burne dane u kojima se kontrolisala plovidba ovim tesnacom koji odvaja Sredozemno more od Atlantskog okeana. I kolonija malih majmuna, jedinih koji slobodno žive u Evropi, simbol je engleskog prisustva. Kažu da kada njih ne bude, neće više biti ni Engleza na ovim prostorima, pa je još Čerčil dao da se ponovo nasele kada je njihov broj pao ispod kritičnog. Veselo trčkarajući po stenama i često silazeći do grada ne slute koliko su ovde bezbedni i od vitalnog značaja, kao jedan od lokalnih simbola.

Gibraltar ima više puteva prokopanih u krečnjačkoj steni, nego oko nje. Oni su posebno za vreme Drugog svetskog rata služili kao skloništa evakuisanom stanovništvu, kao bolnice, pekare, skladišta za smrznute namirnice i destilerije za vodu. Bastioni, kazamati, vojnička groblja i memorijalni centri, topovi upravljeni ka moru koji su posebnom tehnikom dopremani na velike visine, svojim prisustvom svedoče o burnoj prošlosti ovog naroda, u čijem se govoru mešaju engleske i španske reči.

Nedostatak prostora doveo je do neobičnog ukrštanja aerodromske piste i autoputa koji engleski policajci uredno zatvore prilikom svakog prolaska aviona. Pored British Airwaysa i lokalnih prevoznika iz Velike Britanije, moj prijatelj Dragi Jevremović, koji živi u nedalekoj Marbelji, dobio je ponudu da osnuje državnu aviokompaniju GibAir čije ime slično zvuči na srpskom jeziku, Džiber, ali ima neko drugačije značenje. Ona bi trebalo da Gibraltar poveže i sa nekim drugim mestima u Maroku i Španiji, sa kojima je on tesno istorijski povezan, ali ne i fizički. Brisanje granica savremenog sveta moglo bi tako da učini bespredmetnim svaku teritorijalnu pretenziju, makar i ovih malih prostora.

Ipak, strategija i tradicija to još uvek ne dozvoljavaju. Ono što je moje, to je samo moje.

Februar 2014.

__________________________________________________

One more historical rift, this time between the British and the Spanish. Even though the British had many territories around the world, once the Empire comprising half the world fell apart, the ’remainders’ such as Gibraltar and the Falklands became even more important. They could be situated in remote parts of the planet, but the former Empire would cling on them for dear life.

Once upon a time the Rock of Gibraltar had strategic importance whereas today it just holds a memory of the turbulent times when naval navigation was controled at this strait linking the Mediteranean with the Atlantic Ocean. Even the colonies of small apes, the only wild monkeys in Europe, represent the symbol of the British presence. It is said that when they disappear, the British will disappear too from Gibraltar, so Churchill during his time in the office made sure he re-populated them once their number was seen as falling below critical. They happily bounce aroud the rocky landscape, often descending into town, not suspecting that as an ever important symbol of the British, they are safe and protected here.

More roads in Gibraltar cut through the limestone rock rather than going around it. During the World War II they were used for shelters for the evacuated population, for hospitals, bakeries, storage for frozen goods and water distilleries. Bastions, casements, soldier cemeteries and memorial centres, cannons pointing to the sea (hoisted to high altitude by a special technique) all bear witness to the turbulent past of this nation whose language is a mixture of English and Spanish words.

Lack of space has led to an unusual crossing of runway and motorway, duly closed by the British police each time an airplane is passing through. Apart from  British Airways and some local British carriers there are no other airlines, so incidentally my friend Dragi Jevremović who lives in nearby Marbella was offered an opportunity to set up Gibraltar’s national airline, GibAir. The idea is to connect Gibraltar with certain places in Spain and Morocco with which there has been a historical link but not a physical one. Erasing boundaries in the modern world could thus render any territorial dispute meaningless, including in tiny Gibraltar.

Yet strategic interest and tradition still do not allow that. What is mine – is only mine.

February 2014.

 

 

Severna Irska – Northern Ireland – Tuaisceart Éireann

Jedan od najstarijih kafea na svetu-The Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast

Jedan od najstarijih kafea na svetu-The Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast

Gradska kuca u Belfastu-Belfast City Hall

Gradska kuca u Belfastu-Belfast City Hall

Albertova sahat kula-The Albert Memorial Clock

Albertova sahat kula-The Albert Memorial Clock

Ulica Senkil u Belfastu-simbol otpora-Shankill Road in Belfast-the symbol of resistance

Ulica Senkil u Belfastu-simbol otpora-Shankill Road in Belfast-the symbol of resistance

Pozoriste u Belfastu-The Grand Opera House, Belfast

Pozoriste u Belfastu-The Grand Opera House, Belfast

Okovani prozori-Boarded up windows

Okovani prozori-Boarded up windows

Natpis na zidu-A sign on the wall

Natpis na zidu-A sign on the wall

Kraljicin Univerzitet u Belfastu-The Queen's University of Belfast

Kraljicin Univerzitet u Belfastu-The Queen’s University of Belfast

Kapela u ulici Senkil-Shankill Road Gospel Hall

Kapela u ulici Senkil-Shankill Road Gospel Hall

Jedan od najstarijih kafea na svetu-The Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast

Jedan od najstarijih kafea na svetu-The Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast

Engleski protestanti i irski katolici večita su jabuka razdora u ovoj odvojenoj engleskoj teriroriji koja se nalazi na severu Irske. Irski katolici smatraju da ona, naravno, pripada Republici Irskoj, dok je Englezi
smatraju svojom još od davanja nezavisnosti Irskoj 1921. godine. Oružani sukobi koji su tada nastali bili su pod vođstvom Irske Republikanske Armije (IRA), od Irskog rata za nezavisnost i Uskršnjeg ustanka do jačanja partije Šin Fejn i Krvave nedelje 1972. godine.
Velika međusobna netrpeljivost Engleza i Iraca, protestanata i katolika, ogledala se u stalnim uličnim sukobima, posebno u ulici Šenkil u Belfastu, glavne gradu Severne Irske. Tu se na svakom koraku mogu videti zidovi oslikani narodnim herojima u ratničkim uniformama, važnim datumima u borbi za nezavisnost i grbovima regimenti i palih za slobodu koje narod nikada neće zaboraviti. Brojne zgrade imaju okovane prozore ispred kojih se slikaju Japanci, a koji su služili kao zaštita od ubacivanja granata ili suzavca tokom protesta.
Protesti su uglavnom prestali, moj prijatelj Đorđe Miljković i ja relativno bezbrižno šetamo ulicom Šenkil i drugim delovima Belfasta, pa ipak povremeno osetimo izvesnu nelagodu uz poglede lokalnih stanovnika koji misle da ne razumemo njihovu situaciju i samo želimo da slikamo revolucionarne murale.
Ako ne možeš silom razrešiti situaciju, možeš parama. Vešti Englezi su toliko novca ubacili u Severnu Irsku kojim su veoma poboljšali kvalitet života, da danas verovatno retko kome pada na um odvajanje, a još manje terorističke akcije.
Treba ga samo imati dovoljno.

Septembar 2007.

_____________________________________________________________

English Protestants and Irish Catholics have always had a bone to pick over this separate British territory situated in the north of Ireland. The Irish Catholics maintain it belongs to the Republic of Ireland as a matter of course, whereas the British consider it their own ever since giving independence to Ireland in 1921. Armed conflict that ensued was instigated by the IRA (Irish Republican Army), from the Irish War for Independence and The Easter Rising to the rise of Sinn Féin and Bloody Sunday in 1972.

High intolerance between the Northern Irish and the the Republican Irish, the Protestants and the Catholics, often culminated into street violence, especially on Shankill Road in Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland. At every corner you can see walls painted with pictures of national heroes in armed gear, important dates in the struggle for independence, regiment insignia and pictures of those who fell for freedom, never to be forgotten by the people. Many buildings have boarded up windows which gave protection against grenades and tear gas during protests; nowadays Japanese tourists take photos in front of them.

Protests have mostly gone these days, and I walk with my friend Đorđe Miljković along Shenkill Road and other parts of Belfast, in quite a relaxed way; yet occasionally we feel uneasy under the scrutinising gaze of local residents who may think that we do not understand their situation and only want to take pictures of the revolutionary murals.

If you cannot resolve a situation by force, you can with money. The cunning British have poured so much money into Northern Ireland, improving the quality of life so much so that hardly anyone thinks anymore about separation, let alone terrorist actions.

You only need to have enough of money.

 September 2007

 

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