URUGVAJ – URUGUAY

Katedrala u Montevideu-The Cathedral in Montevideo

Katedrala u Montevideu-The Cathedral in Montevideo

Najstarije pozoriste Solis-The oldest theatre-Teatro Solis

Najstarije pozoriste Solis-The oldest theatre-Teatro Solis

Oldtajmer u predgradju-An oldtimer in the suburb

Oldtajmer u predgradju-An oldtimer in the suburb

Pogled na glavni grad-A view of the capital

Pogled na glavni grad-A view of the capital

Poster prvog Svetskog prvenstva u fudbalu-The poster of the First World Cup

Poster prvog Svetskog prvenstva u fudbalu-The poster of the First World Cup

Punta del Este

Punta del Este

Tvrdjava iznad zaliva Montevideo-Fortaleza del Cerro overlooking the Bay of Montevideo

Tvrdjava iznad zaliva Montevideo-Fortaleza del Cerro overlooking the Bay of Montevideo

Zeleznicka stanica u Montevideu-Montevideo railway station

Zeleznicka stanica u Montevideu-Montevideo railway station

Zgrada Parlamenta-Palacio Legislativo-The Uruguayan Parliament

Zgrada Parlamenta-Palacio Legislativo-The Uruguayan Parliament

Spomenik nacionalnom heroju Hoze Artigasu - Monument of the national hero Jose Gervasio Artigas

Spomenik nacionalnom heroju Hoze Artigasu – Monument of the national hero Jose Gervasio Artigas

Palata Salvo na Trgu nezavisnosti - Salvo Palace at Plaza Independencia

Palata Salvo na Trgu nezavisnosti – Salvo Palace at Plaza Independencia

Istorijski spomenik - Historical monument La Carreta

Istorijski spomenik – Historical monument La Carreta

Uvek sam se pitao zašto je pravilan naziv Istočna Republika Urugvaj i zašto
Urugvajce nazivaju “istočnjacima” kad se država nalazi na zapadu. U stvari,
ona je na istočnoj strani Južne Amerike i istočnoj strani reke Urugvaj. Ime
potiče od starosedelaca i znači “reka gde žive obojene ptice”.
U glavni grad Montevideo najčešće se stiže ogromnim i brzim katamaranom
preko Srebrne reke Río de la Plata iz susednog Buenos Ajresa, kao što sam i
ja učinio zajedno sa svojim kolegom i prijateljem Radmilom Rončevićem. Odmah
vas opčini prijatna atmosfera neposrednosti i jednostavnosti, dopunjena
blagim ukusom kubanskog uticaja, posebno u starom gradu Ciudad Vieja. Sve se
vremenom menja, pa je i stari grad poprimio obrise centra gradskog noćnog
života.
Mnogo je vremena proteklo da bi se neko sećao prvog svetskog fudbalskog kupa
u Montevideu 1930. godine, ali je on ipak bio nezaobilazni događaj u tom
sportu u kome se pamte legendarni golovi iz tih dana. Jugoslavija je bila
jedna od četiri evropske zemlje koje su se tamo takmičile i ušla je u
finale. Dok sam posmatrao čuveni Estadio Centenario, pomislio sam koliki to
mora da je bio uspeh za ono vreme, a koji nam je i danas nedostižan. Srpski
film reditelja Dragana Bjelogrlića Montevideo, bog te video, koji romantično
govori o tim događajima, doživeo je svoju premijeru tačno osamdeset godina
kasnije u Beogradu.
Palata Salvo je najzanimljivija građevina u starom gradu, podignuta na mestu
nekadašnje poslastičarnice La Giralda, gde je Gerardo Matos Rodríguez 1917.
godine komponovao najpoznatiji tango svih vremena La Cumparsita, što u
prevodu znači mala parada. Stari snimci te tango himne kao da me vraćaju u
doba imigracije u Južnu Ameriku u vreme oko Prvog svetskog rata, kada je
tango na ovim prostorima stvarala niža klasa. Ne sme se, naravno, zbog Male
parade ni pomisliti da je Urugvaj kolevka tanga, zato što je veliki sused
Argentina odavno prisvojila tu titulu. Urugvajci su, ipak, omiljeniji u
južnoameričkom svetu, a oba naroda imaju specifične i veoma slične naglaske.
Voleo sam da posmatram neobične modele oldtajmera dok prolaze uličicama
gradića Colonia del Sacramento koji se nalazi na Uneskovoj listi, ili starim
delovima Montevidea, pored teatra Solis ili spomenika nacionalnom heroju
koji se zvao Hoze Artigas. Umro je u izbeglištvu, u dubokoj starosti,
polovinom XIX veka, a da nije ostvario svoje ciljeve. Kažu da je tražio
sedlo da bi, kao gaučo, umro na konju. Poznato je da Urugvajci imaju neki
specifičan ponos, kao i tugu u pogledu.
Mondensko poluostrvo Punta del Este ili južnoamerički Monte Karlo znatno se
razlikuje od ostalog dela zemlje po raskošnim vilama bogataša i poznatih
ličnosti sveta estrade, ogromnim turističkim brodovima kruzerima koji ovde
pristaju, prostranim peščanim plažama i lukom u kojoj su usidrene luksuzne
jahte, ali i kolonije dobroćudnih morskih lavova. Pre pola veka ovde su
dolazili Frenk Sinatra i Din Martin, a danas Madona, Banderas i mnogi drugi.
Urugvaj ima neku posebnu privlačnost koju svet odavno oseća i koja ga čini
drugačijim.

Novembar 1998.
_____________________________________________________

I always asked myself why the correct name for Uruguay was the Eastern
Republic of Uruguay and why Uruguayans were called ‘the Easterners’ when the
country itself is in the West. In fact, it is situated on the East coast of
South America and on the East bank of the Uruguay River. The name itself
originated from the aborigines in whose language it means ‘the river where
colourful birds live.’
Most often the capital city Montevideo is reached by a huge and fast
catamaran across the River Plate, Río de la Plata, from neighbouring Buenos
Aires, as I reached it together with my friend and colleague Radmilo
Rončević. You are immediately struck by a pleasant atmosphere of openness
and simplicity, complemented by a Cuban flavour, especially in the old city
– Ciudad Vieja. Everything changes, so even the Old City has started to look
like a night life hot spot.

It was too long ago for anyone to remember – the first Football World Cup in
Montevideo in 1930; yet it was an all-important event in this sport and
those legendary goals are still remembered. Yugoslavia was one of the four
European countries that competed and got into the finals. While I looked at
the famous Estadio Centenario (Centenario Stadium), I thought how
significant this success was at the time and how it is not within our reach
today. Exactly 80 years later, a Serbian film by a film director Dragan
Bjelogrlić, Montevideo, bog te video, depicting those events in a romantic
fashion, had its premiere in Belgrade.
Salvo Palace is the most interesting building in the Old City, built on the
site of the old patisserie La Giralda, where in 1917 Gerardo Matos Rodríguez
composed the most famous tango of all times, La Cumparsita, meaning ‘the
little parade’. The old recordings of this tango anthem transport me to
Latin America at the time when massive immigration took place, around the
time of the First World War, and tango in this region used to be created by
society’s lower classes. Yet, it is not allowable to think that Uruguay is
the home of the tango because of ‘the little parade’; the mighty neighbour,
Argentina, has claimed that title long ago. Yet, Uruguayans are more liked
in the Latin American world where both the Argentinians and the Uruguayans
have a very peculiar, yet similar accent.
I liked to watch the unusual makes of old timers passing down the narrow
streets of a small town Colonia del Sacramento, which is listed in UNESCO’s
World Heritage Fund, or in the old parts of Montevideo, next to Solis
Theatre or near the monument of the national hero José Artigas. He died at a
very old age in exile in the mid-19th century without fullfiling his goals.
It is said that he asked for a saddle so that he could die as a gaucho,
while riding a horse. It is well known that the Uruguayans have a particular
pride as well as a certain sadness in their eyes.
The fashionable peninsular resort of Punta del Este, the so-called South
American Monte Carlo, differs conspicuously from the rest of the country,
mostly because of the opulent villas of rich people and world famous
celebrities, but also the huge tourist cruisers which stop here, the vast
sandy beaches and a port in which luxurious yachts are moored, as well as
the colonies of benevolent sea lions. Half a century ago, Dean Martin and
Frank Sinatra visited here, and now it is Madonna, Antonio Banderas and many
others.
Uruguay possesses a special attractiveness, which was acknowledged by the
rest of the world a long time ago; it just makes that difference.

November 1998

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