UJEDINJENI ARAPSKI EMIRATI – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES – دولة الإمارات العربية المتحدة‎

Spomenik topu u Abu Dabiju-Canon Square, Abu Dhabi

Spomenik topu u Abu Dabiju-Canon Square, Abu Dhabi

U pescanim dinama-In the sand dunes

U pescanim dinama-In the sand dunes

Vodeni prolaz - Dubai Creek

Vodeni prolaz – Dubai Creek

Vodeni prolaz-Dubai Creek

Vodeni prolaz-Dubai Creek

Zalazak sunca na Dzumeiri-Sunset at Madinat Jumeirah

Zalazak sunca na Dzumeiri-Sunset at Madinat Jumeirah

Dubai, zabava na dokovima-An Arabic party at the docks of Dubai Creek

Dubai, zabava na dokovima-An Arabic party at the docks of Dubai Creek

Izlet u pustinju-A trip to the desert

Izlet u pustinju-A trip to the desert

Luksuzni hotel Burdz el Arab - A luxury hotel-Burj Al Arab

Luksuzni hotel Burdz el Arab – A luxury hotel-Burj Al Arab

Luksuzni hotel Burdz el Arab-A luxury hotel-Burj Al Arab

Luksuzni hotel Burdz el Arab-A luxury hotel-Burj Al Arab

Najvisa zgrada na svetu Burdz Kalifa-Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world

Najvisa zgrada na svetu Burdz Kalifa-Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world

Pogled na plazu Dzumeira-An aerial view of Jumeirah from the Burj Al Arab

Pogled na plazu Dzumeira-An aerial view of Jumeirah from the Burj Al Arab

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, ruler of Dubai

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, ruler of Dubai

Na pomen te zemlje, najčešće pomislimo na Dubai, najveći i najpoznatiji grad u Emiratima, arhitektonsko čudo savremenog sveta. Zato je i želja svakog graditelja da tu iskaže svoje mogućnosti, bez ikakvog ograničenja. Tu je iz peska nikla najviša zgrada na svetu, evo upravo ispred mene, ceo kilometar u visinu, a kažu da je na samom vrhu apartman vladara, šeika Al-Maktuma.
Dubai je samo jedan od sedam Emirata, od kojih je Abu Dabi takođe poznat i, što je još važnije, poseduje naftu koju Dubai nema. Zato je svojim gotovim novcem uspeo da spase ekonomiju Dubaija koja se, do vremena velike krize 2009. godine, razvijala uglavnom na kreditima. Idealan spoj malih emirata izniklih iz pustinjskog peska, koji su, poput sokola, za samo nekoliko decenija dotakli sam vrh svetskog razvoja i postali simbol bogatstva.
Kad se u smiraj dana slegnu te razvojne potrebe i probudi beduinski duh, ovi novi nomadi sednu u svoja tehnološki napredna vozila i odu negde daleko u pustinju, i to što dalje, pa  čak dotle da ne vide sveprisutne naftovode; tu razapnu svoj šator i samo gledaju u daljinu. Poneko pusti sokola ili uzjaše kamilu, tek toliko da ga prođe želja. Nije ipak bilo tako davno kada su njihovi očevi samo to posedovali.
Danas sigurno imaju mnogo više nego što im je potrebno, ali nemaju više onu beduinsku slobodu koju vole i koju traže vikendom u pustinji. Kamile su zamenili ogromni japanski džipovi kojima luduju po peščanim dinama, sokolove privatni avioni kojima vode žene u kupovinu u London. Kao da već nemaju sve u ogromnim tržnim centrima, izgrađenim od bleštavog belog mermera.
U težnji za davnim vremenima i tradicijom, savremena arhitektura ovog grada sve više ističe arapsko nasleđe, pa se čitava nova naselja i hotelski kompleksi grade tako da iz daljine izgledaju kao stari pustinjski gradovi sa kućama od blata. To je ipak prijatnije gledati nego neumoljive oblakodere koji se samo podižu da bi sustigli jedni druge u tom suludom takmičenju u visini i bizarnim obličjima.
Ovom prilikom nisam tu došao da bih razgledao Dubai jer sam u njemu već nekoliko puta boravio. Ovde sada živi moj stari prijatelj i brat Nenad Pandudović zvani Stanislav (prema liku iz predstave Radovan III), koji mi godinama verno ispunjava želje i omogućava da obiđem zemlje u koje se ne ulazi lako. Priroda njegovog avanturističkog posla u avijaciji u kriznim žarištima, mnogo puta je doprinela da obiđem neke države u koje bih teško dospeo bez njegove pomoći. Ovoga puta to su Irak i Avganistan.
I zato, dok pišem ove redove u zapuštenom avganistanskom konzulatu čekajući vizu, beskrajno sam mu zahvalan na tome.

Avgust 2009.
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At the mention of this country we most often think of Dubai, the biggest and most famous city in the Emirates, the architectural wonder of the modern world. That is why every architect wants to showcase their work here and without any limitations. Here, right in front of me, the tallest building in the world arises from the sand, a whole kilometre in height and it is said that the apartment of the ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Al-Maktoum, is at the very top.
Dubai is just one of the seven Emirates among which Abu Dhabi is also famous, and unlike Dubai, it has oil. That is how it managed to save Dubai’s economy with its cash reserves; this economy had been developing until the crisis of 2009 exclusively on borrowing. The interlinking of the small Emirates was ideal – they rose from the sand into unprecedented heights, like falcons, managing to reach the peak of the world development in only a few decades. They became a symbol of wealth.
At day’s end when the race for development slows down and the spirit of Bedouins awakens, these new nomads get into their technologically advanced vehicles and drive far away  into the desert; they want to go so far as not to see the oil pipelines which are everywhere. Then they put up their tent and just sit staring in the distance. Occasionally someone would fly their falcon or ride their camel, just to fulfil that primal desire. It wasn’t that long ago that their fathers had only that and nothing else.
Today they certainly have more than they need but they don’t have any more the freedom of the roaming Bedouins, which they miss and search for in the desert at weekends. Camels have been replaced by huge Japanese jeeps which perform mad acrobatics in the sand, and falcons have been replaced by private jets in which they take their wives shopping in London. As though they already don’t have everything in the gigantic shopping centres made of dazzling white marble.
Aspiring to evoke the olden times and the tradition, contemporary architecture of this city emphasizes more and more the Arabic heritage, so that entirely new residential and hotel complexes are built to resemble desert towns with mud huts, when seen from the distance. Yet this is more pleasing to the eye than the stern skyscrapers which are built only to surpass each other in this crazy competition of heights and bizarre shapes.
This time I did not come to Dubai for sightseeing as I have already visited several times before. My old friend and brother, Nenad Pandurović nicknamed Stanislav after a character from the play Radovan III, now lives here. For years he has faithfully fulfilled all my wishes and enabled me to enter countries which you cannot get into so easily. The adventurous nature of his job in the aviation of various regions in crisis, has helped me many times to visit some countries which I would not be able to without his help. This time they were Iraq and Afghanistan.
Hence, I write these lines while waiting for a visa in the neglected Afghan consulate feeling immensely indebted to him.

August 2009

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