UGANDA – UGANDA

Brzaci Belog Nila - White Nile rapids

Brzaci Belog Nila – White Nile rapids

Brzaci Belog Nila-White Nile rapids

Brzaci Belog Nila-White Nile rapids

Glavna ulica u Dzindzi-Main Street in Jinja

Glavna ulica u Dzindzi-Main Street in Jinja

Grobnice Buganda kraljeva-The Tombs of Buganda Kings at Kasubi

Grobnice Buganda kraljeva-The Tombs of Buganda Kings at Kasubi

Hindu hram u Kampali-The Hindu Temple in Kampala

Hindu hram u Kampali-The Hindu Temple in Kampala

Lokalna zabava-Local party

Lokalna zabava-Local party

Na brzacima Belog Nila-At the White Nile rapids

Na brzacima Belog Nila-At the White Nile rapids

Na izvoru reke Nil-At the source of the river Nile

Na izvoru reke Nil-At the source of the river Nile

Obala Nila-The shore of The Nile

Obala Nila-The shore of The Nile

Ostrvo na Viktorijinom jezeru-An island on Lake Victoria

Ostrvo na Viktorijinom jezeru-An island on Lake Victoria

Ribolov na Viktorijinom jezeru-Fishing at Lake Victoria

Ribolov na Viktorijinom jezeru-Fishing at Lake Victoria

Suton na Nilu-Sunset at The Nile

Suton na Nilu-Sunset at The Nile

Tekst na izvoru Nila-Source of The Nile, text

Tekst na izvoru Nila-Source of The Nile, text

Tradicionalni ples na lokalnoj zabavi-Traditional dance at the local party

Tradicionalni ples na lokalnoj zabavi-Traditional dance at the local party

Ekvator u Ugandi na Masaka putu-The Uganda Equator on Masaka Road

Ekvator u Ugandi na Masaka putu-The Uganda Equator on Masaka Road

Nilski konji u nacionalnom parku-Hyppos in Queen Elizabeth National Park

Nilski konji u nacionalnom parku-Hyppos in Queen Elizabeth National Park

U skoli-In a local school

U skoli-In a local school

A girl-Devojcica

A girl-Devojcica

Africka goveda dugih rogova-The African longhorn cattle

Africka goveda dugih rogova-The African longhorn cattle

Jedna od mojih fascinacija je reka Nil. On nastaje spajanjem dve njegove
najveće pritoke, Belog i Plavog Nila. Ovde u Ugandi, i ne tako daleko od
glavnog grada Kampale, nalazi se izvor Belog Nila, koji je poznat po svojim
brzacima. Bio sam i na izvoru Plavog Nila u Etiopiji, kao i na mestu gde se
te dve reke spajaju u Kartumu, u Sudanu. Nil je izvor života severnog dela
Afrike, kao što je to reka Kongo za središnji, ili Zambezi za njen južni
deo. To su afričke arterije.
U jednom džunglovitom kvartu glavnog grada Kampale, u staroj kolonijalnoj
kući, ispijamo ko zna koji viski sa samoproklamovanim srpskim počasnim
konzulom, koji nam priča svoje doživljaje o prijateljstvu i podršci
gerilskom vođi, a potom predsedniku ove zemlje Joveri Museveniju u borbi
protiv nadaleko čuvenog diktatora Idi Amina. Svojim neverovatnim
rasipništvom Idi Amin Dada uspeo je da zemlju dovede do potpune propasti,
posle čega je tražio da mu Narodna banka štampa dolare. Zaratio je sa
susednim zemljama, strane diplomate primoravao da mu se klanjaju, strancima
otimao imovinu, dok na kraju svi oni nisu napustili zemlju, a priča se ni da
mu kanibalizam nije bio stran. Jedan naš muzičar učio ga je u njegovoj
palati da peva pesmu Mujo kuje konja po mjesecu jer mu se upravo ona dopala
dok je bio u poseti jugoslovenskom predsedniku Titu. I još je mnogo sličnih
anegdota o poznatom diktatoru, sve dok nije svrgnut sa vlasti, a ostatak
života mirno proveo u svojoj vili u Saudijskoj Arabiji. Toliko je davao
stranim državnicima da se verovatno nisu mnogo trudili da ga vrate u zemlju
na suđenje za nepotizam, zločine i ubistva hiljada neistomišljenika. Njegov
neobičan lik verno je prikazao Forest Viteker u filmu Poslednji škotski
kralj. Amin je bio poznat po tome da je izmišljao i prisvajao razne
kraljevske titule.
Brzaci Belog Nila odnose sećanja na ovaj neverovatni lik novije afričke
istorije. To je jedina reka koja izvire iz najvećeg tropskog jezera na
svetu, jezera Viktorija, i kreće na dugo putovanje da bi se spojila sa
svojom sestrom bliznakinjom, Plavim Nilom. Tu, na zapadnoj obali reke,
satima je zadivljen stajao Džon Spik, zagledan u izvor Nila, koji će 1862.
godine obelodaniti svetu u Kraljevskom geografskom društvu u Londonu.
Začudno je naći se na mestu odakle nešto potiče, polazi, nastaje i razvija
se do nesagledivih razmera. To je Nil, koji protiče kroz raznolike pejzaže,
dodirujući kulture kao ni jedna druga reka na svetu. To je reka koja
postavlja granicu između bogatstva i bede, između života i smrti, od samog
početka vremena.
To je reka nad rekama.

Septembar 1997.
____________________________________________________

One of the things that has always fascinated me is the Nile. It comes into
existence by the merging of its two biggest tributaries, the White Nile and
the Blue Nile. Here in Uganda, not so far from the capital Kampala, is the
source of the White Nile, famous for its rapids. I visited the source of the
Blue Nile in Ethiopia as well; also the place where these two rivers become
one, Khartoum in Sudan. The Nile is the source of life for Northern Africa,
much as the Congo is for Central Africa, or Zambezi for Southern Africa.
These are Africa’s arteries.
In an old colonial house in a jungle-like quarter of the capital Kampala, we
drink countless whiskies with a self-proclaimed Serbian honorary consul who
recounts some anecdotes about his friendship with the guerrilla leader
Yoweri Museveni who later became president, whom he supported in his fight
against the well known dictator Idi Amin. Idi Amin Dada brought the country
to its knees with his incredible profligacy and then requested the National
Bank to print dollars for him. He instigated war with neighbouring
countries, forced foreign diplomats to bow to him, snatched property from
foreigners, until they all left the country; it is said that he was not
averse to cannibalism either. One musician from our country had to teach
him, at his palace, to sing a song called Mujo kuje konja po mjesecu (A
Bosnian folk song), because he grew to like it so much during his visit to
Tito. And there are many more anecdotes about this famous dictator, until he
was ousted from power, only to spend the rest of his life quietly in his
villa in Saudi Arabia. He gave so much money to foreign statesmen that they
did not really bother to extradite him to his country, where a trial for
nepotism, crime and killings of thousands awaited him. His unusual character
was accurately portrayed by Forest Whitaker in the movie The Last King of
Scotland. Amin was well known for making up and adopting various royal
titles.
The rapids of the White Nile carry away the memories of this unbelievable
character of recent African history. The White Nile is the only river that
springs from the world’s biggest tropical lake, Lake Victoria, commencing a
long journey in order to merge with its twin, the Blue Nile. Here on the
West Bank, John Speke stood for hours in awe of this river, gazing at its
source, and in 1862 he made it known to the world with his presentation to
the Royal Geographical Society. It is a wonder to be present at the source,
the beginning of something that develops from here into a power of
indescribable dimensions. That is the Nile, flowing through such a variety
of landscapes, brushing with various cultures, like no other river in the
world. This is the river that creates a border between the rich and the
poor, between life and death, from times immemorial.
This is the river above any other.

September 1997

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