TANZANIJA – TANZANIA

U luci-In the port of Dar es Salaam

U luci-In the port of Dar es Salaam

Ulaz u lokalnu pijacu-The entrance to the local market

Ulaz u lokalnu pijacu-The entrance to the local market

Ulicna pijaca u glavnom gradu - Dar es Salaam street market

Ulicna pijaca u glavnom gradu – Dar es Salaam street market

Ulicna pijaca u glavnom gradu-Dar es Salaam street market

Ulicna pijaca u glavnom gradu-Dar es Salaam street market

Dolina baobaba-Baobab Valey

Dolina baobaba-Baobab Valey

Masai ratnik na obodu kratera Ngorongoro-Maasai warrior at the Ngorongoro Crater rim

Masai ratnik na obodu kratera Ngorongoro-Maasai warrior at the Ngorongoro Crater rim

Masai u svom selu-Maasai warriors in their village

Masai u svom selu-Maasai warriors in their village

Masajac-A Maasai man

Masajac-A Maasai man

Nilski konji u vulkanskom blatu-Hyppos in the volcanic mud

Nilski konji u vulkanskom blatu-Hyppos in the volcanic mud

Pojilo u krateru Ngorongoro-Watering hole in Ngorongoro Crater

Pojilo u krateru Ngorongoro-Watering hole in Ngorongoro Crater

Slonica na putu u safari parku Serengeti- Female elephant on the road in the Sarengeti National Park

Slonica na putu u safari parku Serengeti- Female elephant on the road in the Sarengeti National Park

Slonica na putu u safari parku Serengeti-A female elephant on the road in the Sarengeti National Park

Slonica na putu u safari parku Serengeti-A female elephant on the road in the Sarengeti National Park

Snegovi Kilimandzara - The Snows of Kilimanjaro

Snegovi Kilimandzara – The Snows of Kilimanjaro

Snegovi Kilimandzara-The Snows of Kilimanjaro

Snegovi Kilimandzara-The Snows of Kilimanjaro

Stocna pijaca-A cattle market

Stocna pijaca-A cattle market

Vodjenje ljubavi na lavlji nacin-Making love the lion's way

Vodjenje ljubavi na lavlji nacin-Making love the lion’s way

Afrika je uvek bila moja velika ljubav, intriga, izazov. Iako svaki njen deo
ima svoje posebnosti, kulturološke i prirodne, iako u skoro svakoj od
afričkih zemalja jednako uživam, i tako se prema njima odnosim, Tanzanija
ipak čini srž simbolike koju povezujemo sa ovim kontinentom.
Zemlja je nastala sjedinjavanjem britanskih kolonija Tanganjike, kao
kontinentalnog dela, i Zanzibara kao ostrvskog dela, u vreme oca nacije koji
se zvao Džulijus Njerere. Većina afričkih zemalja, naravno, ima svog oca
nacije, koga smo kao deca revnosno dočekivali u Beogradu sa zastavicama, kad
bi, u otvorenom mercedesu, prolazio u društvu predsednika Tita i mahao nam.
Bili su to, iz perspektive moje generacije, dobri vladari, koji su svoje
zemlje tada izbavljivali iz kolonijalnog statusa, a one zatim ulazile u
Pokret nesvrstanih. Bilo je to romantično društvo malih naroda koje je tada
pokazivalo otpor velikim silama, pa donekle i određenu moć koju mu je
brojnost dozvoljavala. Osećali su se važnim na svetskoj političkoj sceni, a
njihovi lideri u svojim malim sredinama bili su bogovi “koji su pali na
teme”. Tanzanija je bila jedna od njih.
Jutro u kompleksu luksuznih hotelskih kolibica afričkog tipa, koji se naziva
lodge,  na obodu vulkanskog kratera Ngorongoro, predstavlja nezaboravan
doživljaj. U izmaglici koja se podiže nad velikim, davno ugašenim kraterom,
ukazuje se ogromna površina koja je sada dno kratera i savana, i po kojoj, u
najranijim jutarnjim časovima, krda afričkih životinja polaze u potragu za
hranom. One se ne obaziru na džipove koji se probijaju između njih, a koji
su puni turista naoružanih kamerama sa dugim objektivima, ne bi li svako od
njih ulovio poneki neobičan trenutak surove divljine: skok lava na antilopu,
ili, možda, na lavicu u trenutku strasti, stampedo bufala i divljih svinja,
ili ljubavnu igru nilskih konja.
U jednom drugom, po prostranstvu najvećem nacionalnom parku Serengeti,
doživljavamo duge trenutke neizvesnosi na prašnjavom putiću, okruženom
niskim zemljanim stenama, staništima termita. Nalazimo se oči u oči sa
velikom slonicom dugih izvijenih kljova, čije je mladunče prešlo na drugu
stranu putića, a naš džip se našao između njih. U trenutku straha za
mladunče, mogla bi u naletu da sa lakoćom prevrne džip u kome vlada muk
neizvesnosti i očekivanja, čak i za čuvara, koji je sa puškom u
pripravnosti. Posle dužeg čekanja u igri nerava, slonica se ipak odlučuje da
nas obiđe kroz nepristupačno šipražje i pridruži slončetu, uz naše uzdahe
olakšanja. Možda nas nikada ne bi napala jer slonovima to nije u prirodi,
ali onako moćna ispred malog vozila ulivala je strah, jer je i sama bila
uplašena.
Tanzanija predstavlja spoj safarija (na svahili jeziku safari znači
putovanje) u najlepšim nacionalnim parkovima i tropskog uživanja na
kontinentalnim plažama, kao i onim na ostrvu Zanzibar. Ako se ovim
doživljajima pridoda i lagano osvajanje najpoznatijeg afručkog vrha
Kilimandžara, onda ova zemlja zaista pruža mnogo više nego što se očekuje od
jednog putovanja po Africi.
Hakuna Matata.

Septembar 1997.
_______________________________________________________

Africa has always been my great love, a riddle, a challenge. Even though
every part of Africa has its own features, natural and cultural, and even
though I equally enjoy almost all the African countries and treat them
equally, Tanzania still represents the symbolical essence that we relate to
this continent.
The country came into existence by unification of the British colonies of
Tanganyika as its continental part, as well as Zanzibar as the insular part,
under the father of the nation, Julius Nyerere. Most African nations have
their father of the nation who we would greet fervently waving the flags
when we were children in Belgrade; they would usually drive past in an open
roof Mercedes accompanied by President Tito and wave back to us. From our
perspective they were good rulers who had saved their countries from
colonial status and they would then join the movement of Non-Aligned
countries. At the time, it was a romantic association of small nations
showing resistance towards the superpowers, and even a measure of power due
to the number of its members. They felt important on the world political
scene and their leaders, in their small environments felt like gods.
Tanzania was one of them.
Dawn break at a luxurious complex of huts in the African style, called a
‘lodge’, at the rim of the volcanic crater Ngorongoro is an unforgettable
experience. In the mist rising above the crater of the volcano, extinguished
long ago, a vast expanse which is now a savannah stretches into the
distance; in the early morning hours herds of African animals can be seen
there, roaming in search of food. They disregard the jeeps making their way
between them, loaded with tourists equipped with cameras with long lenses,
each of them trying to capture a scene of cruel wilderness – a lion jumping
on an antelope, or perhaps on a lioness in a moment of passion; a stampede
of buffaloes or wild boars, or a flirting game of hippos.
In another national park, Serengeti, which is the largest of all, we
experience long moments of uncertainty on a dusty road surrounded by low
laying  earthen rocks – termite mounds. We are directly facing a female
elephant with long curved tusks; her baby elephant has crossed the road and
our jeep has found itself between the two of them. In a moment of fear for
its young one she could easily overturn the jeep which is possessed by dead
silence of uncertainty and trepidation; even the guard with his rifle on the
ready is feeling uncomfortable. After a long nerve-wrecking wait, the female
elephant decides to pass by us through the inaccesible shrubbery and join
her baby. We let out sighs of relief. Perhaps she would never attack us
anyway as that is not in the elephant’s nature, but powerful as she was, in
front of a small vehicle, she instilled fear, because she was afraid
herself.
Tanzania is a mixture of safari (which means a ‘trip’ in Swahili) in the
most beautiful national parks and tropical pleasures on continental beaches
as well as those on the island of Zanzibar. If to these experiences you add
a gradual conquest of Kilimanjaro, the most famous mountain peak in Africa,
then this country offers much more than you would normally expect from a
travel to an African country.
Hakuna Matata.

September 1997

 

 

  ZANZIBAR – ZANZIBAR

Skupljanje algi dok traje oseka-Collecting algae during the low tide

Skupljanje algi dok traje oseka-Collecting algae during the low tide

Stara apoteka-The old Ithnasheri dispensary

Stara apoteka-The old Ithnasheri dispensary

Tipicna drvena kapija-A typical wooden gate

Tipicna drvena kapija-A typical wooden gate

U starom delu grada-In the Stone Town

U starom delu grada-In the Stone Town

Unutar zidina grada-Inside the city walls

Unutar zidina grada-Inside the city walls

Uske ulice starog grada-The narrow streets of the Stone Town

Uske ulice starog grada-The narrow streets of the Stone Town

Zgrada poste-The Post Office building

Zgrada poste-The Post Office building

Africki bioskop-An African cinema

Africki bioskop-An African cinema

Anglikanska katedrala-The Anglican cathedral Christ Church

Anglikanska katedrala-The Anglican cathedral Christ Church

Gradska pijaca - A city market

Gradska pijaca – A city market

Gradska pijaca-A city market

Gradska pijaca-A city market

Oblaci nad Zanzibarom-Clouds over Zanzibar

Oblaci nad Zanzibarom-Clouds over Zanzibar

Palata cuda - The Palace of Wonders

Palata cuda – The Palace of Wonders

Palata cuda -The Palace of Wonders

Palata cuda -The Palace of Wonders

Palata cuda-The Palace of Wonders

Palata cuda-The Palace of Wonders

Patinirana arhitektura Kamenog grada-Stone Town's old architecture

Patinirana arhitektura Kamenog grada-Stone Town’s old architecture

Pogled na Kameni grad-A view of Stone Town

Pogled na Kameni grad-A view of Stone Town

Skupljanje algi dok traje oseka-Collecting algae during low tide

Skupljanje algi dok traje oseka-Collecting algae during low tide

Skupljanje algi dok traje oseka-Collecting algae during low tide

Skupljanje algi dok traje oseka-Collecting algae during low tide

Iz glavnog grada Tanzanije Dar es Salama polazi pretovareni trajekt za
ostrvo Zanzibar. Čitavo ostrvo miriše na brojne začine, a posebno na vanilu
i karanfilić, čime odaje utisak jedne velike poslastičarnice. Začini su
vekovima činili ovo ostrvo poznatom morskom raskrsnicom istočne afričke
obale, odakle su arapski trgovci kretali ka Arabijskom poluostrvu natovareni
robovima, slonovačom, zlatom i začinima. Patina tih davnih dana oseća se u
oronuloj muslimanskoj arhitekturi ostrva i daje mu posebnu čar u popodnevnoj
šetnji ulicama starog grada. Zraci zalazećeg sunca delimično osvetljavaju
male džamije u slepim sokacima.
Zanzibar je grad, ostrvo i arhipelag u čijem se sastavu nalazi još ostrvo
Pemba, kao i oko pedeset manjih ostrva. Neobična mešavina Bantu nacije
afričkog kontinenta sa muslimanskim trgovcima iz Jemena, Omana, Indije i
Persije, stvorila je Svahili kulturu i narod koji naseljava ova ostrva.
Duge oseke na istočnoj obali ne čine ga pogodnim za kupanje u tim trenucima,
ali je zato zanimljivo posmatrati meštane sa korpama na leđima koji u
plićaku sakupljaju alge za daleke japanske trpeze. Karanfilić se suši na
suncu i odaje svoj čarobni miris ostrvskom vazduhu, čiji ga povetarac
raznosi po livadama i plažama, između minareta, katedrala i Hindu hramova.
Igre svetlosti i senki po zidovima starog Kamenog grada ispunjavaju njegove
uske aleje i prolaze i kao da pripovedaju o arabijskim kalifima i sultanima
koji su vladali ovim ostrvom. Mali prodavac papaja, manga i kolačića od
cimeta uporno privlači pažnju zvonom svog trošnog bicikla kojim zamiče iza
Ibadi džamije, ostavljajući opojni miris začina u vazduhu.
U smiraj dana afričke priče mešaju se sa onima iz Hiljadu i jedne noći i
pripovedaju deci. Različite kulture i religije čine ovaj deo istočne obale
Afrike veoma posebnim i jedinstvenim, kao i zavodljivi mirisi začina koji
lebde između kamenih stubova Palate čuda.
Kao kolači od vazduha na magičnom ostrvu.

Septembar 1997.
___________________________________________________

From Tanzania’s capital, Dar es Salaam, an overloaded ferryboat leaves for
the island of Zanzibar. The entire island smells of numerous spices,
especially of clove and vanilla, giving off the impression of a huge cake
shop. For centuries spices have given Zanzibar an important naval role as a
centre at the East African coast from which Arabian merchants would leave
for the Arabian Peninsula loaded with slaves, ivory, gold and spice. The
spirit of those long gone days is present in the decrepit Muslim
architecture of the island, giving it a special charm during an afternoon
stroll down the streets of the old town. The rays of setting sun partly shed
light on small mosques in dead end alleyways.
Zanzibar is a city, an island as well as an archipelago comprising the
island of Pemba and another 50 smaller islands. An unusual mix of Bantu
people from the African continent with Muslim merchants from Yemen, Oman,
India and Persia, engendered the Swahili culture and the people who inhabit
these islands.
Long periods of low tide on the East Coast do not make for enjoyable
swimming at that time, however it is interesting then to watch the locals
with baskets on their backs, collecting seaweed for faraway Japanese diners.
Clove is being dried in the sun emanating its magical scent into the
island’s air; it is then carried by the breeze to meadows and beaches,
between minarets, cathedrals and Hindu temples. The play of light and shadow
on the walls of the old Stone Town leads you through narrow alley ways and
passages telling a story of khalifas and sultans who ruled this island. A
small vendor of papaya, mango and cinnamon cakes persistently attracts
attention with the bell chime from his ancient bicycle, slowly disappearing
behind the walls of the Ibadhi Mosque; all that is left behind is a heady
scent of spice.
At day’s end African stories mingle with those from Arabian Nights and are
recounted to the children. Various cultures and religions make this part of
the East Coast of Africa unique and special, as much as the seductive scents
of spices hovering around the stone pillars of the Palace of Wonders.
Like cakes made of air, on a magical island.

September 1997

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