TADŽIKISTAN – TAJIKISTAN – Тоҷикистон

Na ulici-In the street

Na ulici-In the street

Prodavnica suvenira-A souvenir shop

Prodavnica suvenira-A souvenir shop

Slepi pesnik Rudaki-Rudaki-the blind poet

Slepi pesnik Rudaki-Rudaki-the blind poet

Spoj ruskog stila i Orijenta-A mixture of Russian and Oriental styles

Spoj ruskog stila i Orijenta-A mixture of Russian and Oriental styles

Spomenik ocu nacije-The Monument of Amir Ismail Samani, the father of Tajik nation

Spomenik ocu nacije-The Monument of Amir Ismail Samani, the father of Tajik nation

Spomenik slepom pesniku Rudakiju-The Monument of Rudaki, the blind poet

Spomenik slepom pesniku Rudakiju-The Monument of Rudaki, the blind poet

Sporedna ulica-A back street

Sporedna ulica-A back street

Stara sinagoga u Dusanbeu-The old sinagogue in Dushanbe

Stara sinagoga u Dusanbeu-The old sinagogue in Dushanbe

Starac u basti-An old man in the garden

Starac u basti-An old man in the garden

Statua lezeceg Bude u Narodnom muzeju-A Reclining Buddha in the National Museum of Antiquities

Statua lezeceg Bude u Narodnom muzeju-A Reclining Buddha in the National Museum of Antiquities

Tradicionalni hleb na pijaci-Traditional bread on the market

Tradicionalni hleb na pijaci-Traditional bread on the market

Tvrdjava Hisar-Hissar Fortress

Tvrdjava Hisar-Hissar Fortress

U parku-In the park

U parku-In the park

U tradicionalnoj kuci-In a traditional house

U tradicionalnoj kuci-In a traditional house

Ulazak u glavni grad-Entering the capital city

Ulazak u glavni grad-Entering the capital city

Unutar dzamije-Inside the mosque

Unutar dzamije-Inside the mosque

Centralna dzamija u glavnom gradu-Central mosque in the capital

Centralna dzamija u glavnom gradu-Central mosque in the capital

Gradska pijaca-City market

Gradska pijaca-City market

Muzej u tvrdjavi Hisar - The museum in the Hissar Fortress

Muzej u tvrdjavi Hisar – The museum in the Hissar Fortress

Muzej u tvrdjavi Hisar-The museum in the Hissar Fortress

Muzej u tvrdjavi Hisar-The museum in the Hissar Fortress

Na tvrdjavi Hisar-On top of the Hissar Fortress

Na tvrdjavi Hisar-On top of the Hissar Fortress

Predsednici Putin i Rahmon-Presidents Putin and Rahmon

Predsednici Putin i Rahmon-Presidents Putin and Rahmon

Ovde se uzdižu najviše planine, sa kojih dolazi voda većini azijskih reka, usečeni su najlepši kanjoni i prostiru se vrele doline sa suptropskom klimom, gde pamučna polja smenjuju vinogradi, plantaže kajsija i pustinjski platoi. Planinski lanci Karakorum i Hindukuš sreću se na Pamiru, a tu je i najviši vrh koji se naziva Komunizam, najviše slano jezero i najduži glečer, koji je samo jedan od osam hiljada koliko ih ima u ovoj zemlji. To znači da je samo površina prekrivena ledom velika kao omanja evropska zemlja. Čitav Mendeljejev sistem koncentrisan je na Pamirskoj visoravni.
Tadžici su poznati centralnoazijski narod koga ima u skoro svim okolnim zemljama, posebno u Avganistanu, gde žive kao veliki konstitutivni narod. Imaju pomalo nezgodnu narav pо kojoj su poznati i uvek su bili umešani u sve ratove koji su se vodili u centralnoj Aziji.
Aleksandar Veliki je stigao čak do ovih krajeva u svom pohodu na Indiju, kao i Marko Polo na velikom Putu svile. Ova zemlja je bila i ostala zanimljiva za mnoge istraživače, pustolove, planinare, lovce i, posebno, ljubitelje netaknute prirode.
Glavni grad Dušanbe nekada se, u sovjetska vremena, nazivao Staljinabad. Ispunjava me atmosfera glavnih gradova ovih centralnoazijskih zemalja u kojima se govori ruski, a ipak se oseća samosvojnost i autentičnost njihovog porekla. Niko od njih neće negirati prisustvo majke Rusije u njihovim životima, uticaj na kulturni razvoj i veze koje su i dalje toliko jake da su slike lokalnih predsednika, u ovom slučaju Rahmonova, sa Vladimirom Putinom često na vidnim mestima.
Volim da posmatram stare ruske trolejbuse kako krstare ulicama, koje su skoro natkrivene drvećem, pa imate utisak da se uvek nalazite u jednom velikom parku. U njemu su spomenici slepom persijskom pesniku Rudakiju, koji je ovde rođen, najpoznatijem lekaru sa ovih prostora, koji se zvao Ibn Sina ili Avicena, kao i mnogim drugim značajnim ličnostima ne samo iz lokalne istorije, već uopšte. Tu su i obavezna kulturna zdanja pozorišta, opere ili baleta, što možda nije toliko blisko lokalnom stanovništvu, ali se poštuje kao deo ruske tradicije. Kad žele da kažu nešto lepo o nekoj osobi, Tadžici kažu da je lep kao pesnik ili mudar kao pesnik.
Bio sam u velikoj džamiji u Dušanbeu, u ruskoj pravoslavnoj crkvi, jevrejskoj sinagogi (u tužno skromnom prostoru koji je srušen prilikom urbanizacije grada, ali zamenjen novim), video ogromnu statuu ležećeg Bude i uverio se u visok stepen verske tolerancije naroda koji dele ovaj, za azijske prilike, relativno mali prostor.
Tadžikistan je ipak, pre svega, zemlja divlje planinske prirode koja svojom lepotom osvaja svakoga ko krene u istarživanje njenih vrleti. Visoki i mršavi tamnoputi gorštaci ovde sa osmehom dočekuju retke posetioce u svojim jurtama ili dok ih vode kroz jedinstvenu prirodu, koju treba videti i doživeti.
Reči zaista malo govore, jer kako kaže njihova stara poslovica: „Bolje je jednom videti, nego dva puta čuti“.

Maj 2007.
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Here are the highest mountains that supply most Asian rivers with water, here the most stunning canyons are carved in the rocks, and scorching valleys with subtropical climate stretch in the distance, cotton fields alternating with vineyards, apricot plantations with desert plateaus. The mountain ranges of Karakorum and Hindu Kush meet in Pamir and that is where the highest peak, called Communism Peak is situated; a salty lake with a highest altitude is located here as well as the longest glacier, one of the 8000 glaciers in this country. This means that the surface covered with ice is the size of a smaller European country. The entire Mendeleyev system could be found on the Pamir Highland.
Tajiks are a well-known Central Asian people represented in almost all the surrounding countries, especially in Afghanistan where they present a large minority. They have a slightly unpleasant temperament they are famous for and they have always been involved in all wars in Central Asia.
Alexander the Great reached as far as this land on his military campaign to India and so did Marco Polo on his great Silk Route. This country was and still is interesting for many explorers, adventurers, mountaineers, hunters and especially for lovers of unspoilt nature.
The capital, Dushanbe, used to be called Stalinabad in the Soviet era. I savour the atmosphere of these Central Asian capital cities, where even though Russian is spoken, you could still feel their peculiar, authentic roots. No one would negate the presence of Mother Russia in their lives, the influence it had on their cultural development and bonds that are so strong that often you can see pictures of the President, in this case Rahmonov, with Vladimir Putin, displayed in prominent places.
I like to watch ancient Russian trolley buses cruising the streets which are almost entirely covered with treetops, giving off the impression of being in a huge park. Here you can find the monument to the blind Persian poet Rudaki who was born here, as well as the most famous physician from this region called Ibn Sina or Avicenna and to other important persons who came not only from local history but much further afield. Here are also the regular ‘cultural’ buildings such as theatres, operas and ballets; they may not feel very close to the local people, but are respected as part of the Russian tradition. When Tajiks want to say something nice about a person, they say he or she is as beautiful as a poet, or as wise as a poet.
I visited the Great Mosque in Dushanbe, a Russian Orthodox church, the Jewish Synagogue (which was in a sadly small space that was torn down during the urbanisation, but was replaced with a new building); I also saw the big statue of the Reclining Buddha and I was convinced in the high degree of religious tolerance of the people who share, for Central Asian standards, a relatively small space.
Above all, Tajikistan is a country of wild natural beauty of mountains, captivating everyone who explores it with its beauty. Tall, slim, dark-skinned highlanders greet rare visitors with a smile, offering hospitality in their yurts, or guidance through the nature which is unique, and can only be seen and experienced, not described.
Words really can say little, as their old proverb claims: ‘Seeing once is better than hearing twice’.

May 2007

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