SVAZILEND – SWAZILAND – SWATINI

Izbor lokalnih lepotica-Selection of local beauties

Izbor lokalnih lepotica-Selection of local beauties

Kralj Svazilenda-The King of Swaziland

Kralj Svazilenda-The King of Swaziland

Kraljica majka-The Queen Mother

Kraljica majka-The Queen Mother

Lovci u savani-The Catchers in the Bush

Lovci u savani-The Catchers in the Bush

Narodna radinost-Typical handicrafts

Narodna radinost-Typical handicrafts

Svazi afrodizijaci-Swazi aphrodisiacs

Svazi afrodizijaci-Swazi aphrodisiacs

Svazilend safari lodz - Swaziland safari logde

Svazilend safari lodz – Swaziland safari logde

Svazilend safari lodz-Swaziland safari logde

Svazilend safari lodz-Swaziland safari logde

Swaziland bush lobge

Swaziland bush lobge

Tipicno Svazi selo-In the traditional Swazi village

Tipicno Svazi selo-In the traditional Swazi village

Ulaz u aerodromsku zgradu-The entrance to the airport building

Ulaz u aerodromsku zgradu-The entrance to the airport building

Urbani Svazilend-Urban countryside

Urbani Svazilend-Urban countryside

Vodopad pored gradica Manzini je najvisi u zemlji-The waterfall by Manzini is the highest one in the country

Vodopad pored gradica Manzini je najvisi u zemlji-The waterfall by Manzini is the highest one in the country

Zulu ratnici-Zulu warriors

Zulu ratnici-Zulu warriors

Svazilend je jedina zemlja iz koje sam deportovan zato što nisam imao vizu.
Desilo se to neočekivano, ali u moju korist. S obzirom na to da se avion već
vratio u Johanesburg, iz koga smo krenuli, uz malu novčanu nadoknadu
lokalnim aerodromskim vlastima, dogovorio sam se da noć provedemo u hotelu,
a deportacija izvrši taksijem na sasvim drugom kraju zemlje. Bilo je to
dovoljno da se prođe kroz čitavu zemlju, koja se sigurno ne može pohvaliti
veličinom. Prihvatio sam je više kao zanimljivu avanturu, nego kao
neprijatnost. I uopšte, mala rasprava sa afričkim policijama uvek mi je bila
zanimljiva jer postoji samo jedan način kako da se ona okonča. Malo zelenih
novčanica uvek rešava problem.
Svazilend ima svog, najblaže rečeno, zanimljivog mladog kralja koji se zove
Mswati III. On ima običaj da se stalno ženi, do sada samo četrnaest puta, pa
se onda supruga, kao relativan pojam u množini, ne nalazi na zvaničnim
slikama pored njega, već je tu, naravno, majka. Onako krupna deluje
zaštitnički pored njega i, svakako, jedina postojana, ali i veoma uticajna u
vlasti. Kralj je malo kritikovan u javnosti zbog stalnih svadbi koje ipak
dosta koštaju ovaj narod i stalno se ponavljaju, kao i zbog preskupih
automobila, ali je i dalje omiljen, iako je zabranio da se slika njegov
vozni park. Voli da ode u pleme i da izabere što mu srcu drago. Kralj je
ipak kralj i – ko bi ga odbio. Imao je i od koga da nasledi tu strast i
običaj, jer je njegov otac imao sedamdeset žena i oko hiljadu unuka. Ipak,
jedina kraljeva nemoć je u tome što ne može da odredi svog naslednika od
mnogobrojne dece, već je to ostavljeno posebnom Savetu, koji bira kraljicu
majku i njenog sina za budućeg kralja.
Zemlja deluje relativno bogato i razvijeno, uz uticajnog suseda Južnu Afriku
i još može da podnese taj luksuz. Organizovani lov ovde je jedan od boljih
poslova. Veliki deo zemlje je pretvoren u nacionalni park sa svim lovačkim
aktivnostima na visokom novou, ali svakako pogubnim za životinje kojima nije
ostavljen drugi izbor.
Poseta tipičnom selu bila je turistička atrakcija u kojoj sam, obučen kao
lokalni poglavica, u kolibi od pruća i sa afričkim štitom, mogao da poziram
i nakratko se unesem u ulogu. Mala zemlja, razvijen turizam, sigurnost kojom
se ne može pohvaliti veliki broj afričkih zemalja, kao i veseo i ljubazan
narod, suviše je dobro za jednu deportaciju.
Skoro da poželite da vam se ponovo dogodi.

Mart 2006.
________________________________________________________

Swaziland is the only country I was ever deported from because I did not
have a visa. It happened unexpectedly, but to my advantage. Given that my
plane had already returned to Johannesburg, with a small financial
compensation to the airport authorities, we agreed that I could spend the
night in a hotel and for the deportation to take place at the other side of
the country. That gave me enough time to go through the entire country which
definitely cannot boast with its size. I took all that more as an
interesting adventure than as an unpleasant incident. Also, a small argument
here and there I had with some of the African police was always interesting,
as there is usually only one way to resolve it. A few green banknotes always
save the day.
Swaziland has its own young king, who is, mildly put, unusual. His name is
Mswati III. He has the habit of getting married often, so far ‘only’
fourteen times; consequently the spouse(s) do not appear in official photos
next to him, it is his mother who does. Big as she is, she looks protective
next to him, and she is the only constant woman around him; she is also said
to be very powerful in the country’s affairs. The King is being criticised
publicly, to a degree,  for frequent wedding celebrations that cost a
fortune and are being paid from the state budget, as well as extravagant
cars; yet he is still popular, despite putting a photography ban on his car
collection. He likes to go to his original tribe and chose a girl that
appeals to him – after all, he is the King, and who could refuse him? He
takes after his father in terms of passion and behaviour – his father is
said to have had 70 wives and 1000 grandchildren. Yet, the King is devoid of
power when it comes to chosing his successor amongst the many children. This
is left to a special Council who chose the Queen Mother and her son as the
heir to the throne.
This country appears relatively rich and developed, no doubt thanks to the
mighty South African neighbour. Organised hunting trips are a good business
here. A big portion of the country has been turned into a national park with
all the amenities for high level hunting activities, yet deadly for the
animlas who have no choice.
Visiting a typical tribal village was one of the tourist attractions, where
dressed as a local chief with an African shield, standing in a twig hut, I
could pose for a photo and get into the swing of things. A small country
with developed tourism, safety that is unknown to most African countries, as
well as cheerful and kind people, all that is too good to be deported from.
You almost feel like you want to be deported once more.

March 2006

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