ŠPANIJA – SPAIN – ESPAÑA

Gradska kuca u Madridu-Plaza de Cibeles in Madrid

Gradska kuca u Madridu-Plaza de Cibeles in Madrid

Katedrala Sagrada Familia u Barseloni-Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Katedrala Sagrada Familia u Barseloni-Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Katedrala u Toledu-Toledo Cathedral

Katedrala u Toledu-Toledo Cathedral

Kralj Huan Karlos sa ambasadorom Srbije Dankom Prokicem-King Juan Carlos with Serbian Ambassador Danko Prokic

Kralj Huan Karlos sa ambasadorom Srbije Dankom Prokicem-King Juan Carlos with Serbian Ambassador Danko Prokic

Plaza Zorilla, spomenik istoimenom pesniku i konjicka skola u Valjadolidu-Plaza Zorilla in Valladolid

Plaza Zorilla, spomenik istoimenom pesniku i konjicka skola u Valjadolidu-Plaza Zorilla in Valladolid

Pogled na Segoviju-A view of Segovia

Pogled na Segoviju-A view of Segovia

Pogled preko reke na Toledo i utvrdjenje Alkazar-A view of Toledo and  Alcazar fortification

Pogled preko reke na Toledo i utvrdjenje Alkazar-A view of Toledo and Alcazar fortification

Simbol Madrida Medved i Drvo (El Madrono) na centralnom trgu Puerta del Sol-the symbol of Madrid on the central square

Simbol Madrida Medved i Drvo (El Madrono) na centralnom trgu Puerta del Sol-the symbol of Madrid on the central square

Toranj katedrale u Segoviji-The tower of Segovia Cathedral

Toranj katedrale u Segoviji-The tower of Segovia Cathedral

Ulaz u park Guelj u Barseloni-Entrance to the Park Guell in Barcelona

Ulaz u park Guelj u Barseloni-Entrance to the Park Guell in Barcelona

Zamak u Segoviji- inspiracija za Diznijeve filmove-Alcazar of Segovia-An inspiration for Disney cartoons

Zamak u Segoviji- inspiracija za Diznijeve filmove-Alcazar of Segovia-An inspiration for Disney cartoons

Arena u kojoj se odrzava borba s bikovima-A bullfighting venue

Arena u kojoj se odrzava borba s bikovima-A bullfighting venue

Centar Madrida-The centre of Madrid

Centar Madrida-The centre of Madrid

Centralni trg (Plaza Mayor) u Valjadolidu- Central square in Valladolid

Centralni trg (Plaza Mayor) u Valjadolidu- Central square in Valladolid

Centralni trg (Plaza Mayor) u Valjadolidu-Central square in Valladolid

Centralni trg (Plaza Mayor) u Valjadolidu-Central square in Valladolid

Deo najpoznatije katedrale u Barseloni-Part of Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona

Deo najpoznatije katedrale u Barseloni-Part of Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona

„Neka umuknu svi andaluzijski psi i zatvore berbernice Sevilje, neka stane Gvadalkivir i zamre tropsko bilje, zaustave igračice flamenga, toreadori, konkvistadori, inkvizitori. Ja večeras volim u vrtovima Alhambre, olupinama Kolumbovih brodova, na pesku Toremolinosa i pećinama Sijera Grande. Večeras sam rob svojih sagorelih hemisfera i tvojih srebrnih očiju, mrtvog vina i srušenih Alkazara, arapske horde u meni se kriju, Servantesi snova i očaja.“
Ovako je nekada izgledala Španija u mojoj poeziji, Španija moje mladosti koja se odigravala na pesku Andaluzije, uz sve aluzije na protekla vremena koje je sadržala. Seviljska katedrala u vrtu pomorandži bila je moje omiljeno mesto, kao i vrtovi Alhambre, u kojima sam, u vreći za spavanje, proveo noć. Mirisi Orijenta još tada su me zapahnuli i duboko se uvukli u mene, da više nikada ne izađu. Zamišljao sam sve što je arapska civilizacija ostavila na ovim prostorima, naročito uz opise Leona Afrikanca iz njegove rodne Granade.
Španiju osećam kao svoju zemlju i čak je i bolje poznajem. Zato mi je i teško da izdvojim bilo koji deo te zemlje jer je sve to deo mene, deo jednog perioda mog života koji sam tamo proveo. Mogao bih zato da pišem o barovima u Bilbau i plažama San Sebastijana jer sam tamo išao u pohode jednoj Ani i napisao poemu Baskija, oduševljen poštenjem i mentalitetom tog naroda, koji je tada bio poznat jedino po svojoj terorističkoj organizaciji. Sa terase njene kuće u malom mestu Funterrabia, slušao sam kako odjekuju bombe i priče o ekstremnim Baskima koji beže preko granice u drugu polovinu svoje domovine, koja se nalazi u Francuskoj. Bilo je to davno pre ujedinjenja Evrope. Ni tada vetrovi Kastilje nisu imali milosti u svom pohodu na vetrenjače. Kao da u sudaru sa vetrovima iz La Manče dozivaju svog Don Kihota, davno pogubljenog na suncu Estremadure.
Španija je jedna od veoma malog broja zemalja u kojima bih mogao i želeo da živim. I moj veliki porodični prijatelj Danko Prokić, koji je u neko vreme bio vršilac dužnosti ambasadora Jugoslavije u Madridu, a danas ambasador Srbije, želeo je to isto. Želeo je da kupi kafić u Barseloni i tamo ostane da živi; da provodi svoje dane na šetalištu Ramblas, plažama Costa del Sol, među čudnovatim Gaudijevim građevinama na aveniji Diagonal ili u parku Guelj. Taj grad je toliko voleo svog ekscentričnog arhitektu Gaudija da mu je dao punu umetničku slobodu igre kamenom, iz koje je nastala najneobičnija i nikad dovršena katedrala Sagrada Familia, kao i mnoge druge zgrade nestvarnih oblika. Stradao je 1926. godine od udara tramvaja i od tada to vozilo nikada više nije prošlo gradom. Toliko su ga voleli.
Velaskez, Goja, El Greko… mogla bi se cela večnost provesti u muzeju Prado u Madridu.
Srednjovekovni zamak u Segoviji, malom gradu severno od Madrida, inspirisao je Diznija da, prema njemu, u svojim filmovima nacrta zamkove iz bajki.
Španija jednostavno traži da se živi u njoj, da se istražuju njena istorija i kultura, da se sazna zašto se iz nje krenulo u Novi svet.
Možda će nova Evropa odavde dobiti neke odgovore na svoje brojne nedoumice danas.

Avgust 2009.
________________________________________________________________________

‘May all the Andalucian dogs shut up and all the Barbers of Seville shut down, may Guadalquivir stop in its flow and tropical plants die, may flamenco dancers, toreadors, conquistadors and inquisitors stop in their tracks. I am making love tonight in the gardens of Alhambra, in Columbus’ shipwrecks, on the sand of Torremolinos and in the caves of Sierra Grande. Tonight I am the slave of my burnt out hemispheres, and your silver eyes, dead wine and ruined alcazárs, Arabian hordes lurking in me, Cervantes made of dreams and despair’.
This is what Spain looked like in my poetry, the Spain of my youth, unfolding on the Andalucian sand, with all the insinuations and references to the past. The cathedral in Seville, in the orange orchard, was my favourite place, as well as the gardens of Alhambra, where I spent the night in a sleeping bag. The scents of the Orient engulfed me even then and got under my skin, never to leave. I imagined everything the Arabic civilisation left behind in this region, especially stirred by the descriptions of Leon the African, while staying in his native Granada.
I feel like Spain is my own country and that I actually know it even better than my own country. That is why it is so difficult to single out any particular bit of the country, because it is all part of me, part of one period of my life which I spent there. So I could write about bars in Bilbao, or San Sebastián beaches, as I went there to visit a certain Ana and I wrote a poem Baskija (Basque country), delighted with honesty and mentality of these people who were known at the time, only by their terrorist organisation. From the terrace of her house in a small town called Funterrabia, I listened to bomb explosions and to the stories of Basque extremists running across the border to the other half of their homeland which is in France. That was a long time before the unification of Europe. Even then the winds of Castille did not have mercy attacking the windmills. It seems like they collide with the winds from La Mancha, calling their Don Quixote who perished long ago under the sun of Extremadura.
Spain is one of the very few countries where I could and would like to live. My old time family friend, Danko Prokić, who was the Chargés d’affaires in the Yugoslav Embassy in Madrid for a while, now the Ambassador of Serbia, wanted the same. He wanted to buy a café in Barcelona and settle down; to spend his days on Las Ramblas Promenade, on the beaches of Costa del Sol, among Gaudi’s quirky buildings on Avenida Diagonal, or in Park Güell. This city loved so much its eccentric architect Gaudi that it gave him total freedom to play with stone shapes, resulting in the most unusual, and never finished cathedral, Sagrada Familia, as well as many other surreal buildings. He died in an accident in 1926 as he was hit by a tram; since then, there have been no trams in Barcelona. They loved him so much.
Velázquez, Goya, El Greco…you can spend an eternity in Museo del Prado in Madrid. A medieval castle in Segovia, a small town North of Madrid, inspired Disney to use it as a model for a fairytale castle in his cartoons.
Spain simply demands living in it, researching its history and culture, in order to find out, among other things, why the journey to the New World originated here.
Maybe a New Europe could get some answers here to its many dilemmas of today.

August 2009

 

KANARSKA OSTRVA – CANARY ISLANDS – CANARIAS

Skulpture od peska na plazi Las Canteras-Sand sculptures on Las Canteras beach

Skulpture od peska na plazi Las Canteras-Sand sculptures on Las Canteras beach

Vulkan Teide-Mount Teide volcano on Tenerife

Vulkan Teide-Mount Teide volcano on Tenerife

Auditorio Alfredo Kraus

Auditorio Alfredo Kraus

Katedrala u Laguni-The Cathedral of San Cristobal de La Laguna

Katedrala u Laguni-The Cathedral of San Cristobal de La Laguna

Plaza u Las Palmasu-Playa de las Canteras in Las Palmas

Plaza u Las Palmasu-Playa de las Canteras in Las Palmas

Promenada u Las Palmasu-The seaside promenade in Las Palmas

Promenada u Las Palmasu-The seaside promenade in Las Palmas

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Iako na njima obitavaju sve vrste kanarinaca, ova ostrva ipak nisu po njima dobila svoje ime, kako se veruje, već po psima (lat. canis). Naime, stari Rimljani su na ostrvima naišli na opasne domoroce i njihove pse i po tome ih nazvali, a psi su kasnije postali i nacionalni simbol Kanarskih ostrva.

Bliža afričkoj obali nego matici Španiji ova ostrva, njih sedam, čine jedinstveni arhipelag u Atlanskom okeanu koji nazivaju minijaturnim kontinentom. Morfološke i klimatske karakteristike ovih ostrva vulkanskog porekla kao što su kombinacija saharskih vetrova, vlažnih polarnih povetaraca i Golfske struje prave stalnu prolećnu klimu preko cele godine. Peščane plaže smenjuju pustinjske dine, plantaže ananasa i banana, četinarske šume u brdima i tipične vulkanske pejzaže, posebno na ostrvima Tenerife i Lanzarote.

U starim legendama ona su ostatak mitske, davno potonule, Atlantide, kao i deo pomorskih puteva Feničana, Grka, Rimljana i konačno Španaca koji ih preuzimaju u XV veku kao usputnu stanicu u osvajanjima Novog sveta.

Od tada ova vulkanska ostrva postaju nerazdvojni deo Španije kao njena najudaljenija autonomna provincija. Privlače veliki broj turista preko cele godine zahvaljujući blagoj suptropskoj klimi i brojnim atrakcijama kao što su Nacionalni park i vulkan Teide, neobična flora  i fauna na ostrvima, karnevali, zanimljiva kuhinja ili španska kolonijalna arhitektura. Ulogu glavnog grada dele dva mesta na najvećim ostrvima, Santa Cruz de Tenerife i Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, što je, verujem, jedinstven slučaj.

Oktobar 1995.

_______________________________

Even though these islands are inhabited by all kinds of canaries, they were not named after them, as is the popular belief, but after dogs (latin – canis). In fact, the Romans encountered dangerous native tribes and their dogs on these islands and named the islands after them; later on the dogs became the national symbol of the Canary Islands.

This unique archipelago consisting of seven islands is located in the Atlantic Ocean and is closer to the African shore than to mainland Spain. It is often called a mini continent. These volcanic islands have the morphological and climatic traits that combine the Saharan winds, humid polar breezes and the Gulf Stream, creating a spring- like climate that lasts throughout the year. Sandy beaches alternate with desert dunes, pineapple and banana plantations, and then the pine forests in the hills; in addition to that the typical volcanic scenery is abundant, especially on the islands of Tenerife and Lanzarote.

In ancient legends these islands were described as the remnants of the mythical, long gone continent of Atlantis; they were also part of the sea routes of the Ancient Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Romans and finally the Spanish who acquired them in the 15th century as a stop on the way to conquering the New World.

Since then, these islands have been an integral part of Spain as its furthest autonomous province. Throughout the whole year the Canary Islands attract many tourists due to their mild sub-tropical climate; they also abound in attractions such as the National Park and Teide Volcano, the unusual flora and fauna of the islands, the various carnivals,  an interesting cuisine, and the Spanish colonial architecture. The role of the capital city is shared between two cities on the biggest islands, a phenomenon which, I believe, is rather unique. They are Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

October 1995

 

 

Balearska ostrva – Balearic Islands – Islas Baleares

Kartuzijanski manastir-Cartuja de Valldemossa, a former Carthusian monastery

Kartuzijanski manastir-Cartuja de Valldemossa, a former Carthusian monastery

Katedrala na Ibici-The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Snows of Eivissa

Katedrala na Ibici-The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Snows of Eivissa

Plaza na Formenteri-The Formentera beach

Plaza na Formenteri-The Formentera beach

Pogled na Ibicu-A view of Ibiza

Pogled na Ibicu-A view of Ibiza

Pogled na Valdemosu na Majorci-A view of Valldemossa in Majorca

Pogled na Valdemosu na Majorci-A view of Valldemossa in Majorca

Scena u starom gradu-A scene in the Old Town

Scena u starom gradu-A scene in the Old Town

Stari grad Ibica - Old Town (Dalt Vila) of Ibiza

Stari grad Ibica – Old Town (Dalt Vila) of Ibiza

Stari grad Ibica i jedrenjak- Old Town (Dalt Vila) of Ibiza and the sailing boat

Stari grad Ibica i jedrenjak- Old Town (Dalt Vila) of Ibiza and the sailing boat

Ulaz u tvrdjavu na Ibici-The entrance to the fortress in Ibiza

Ulaz u tvrdjavu na Ibici-The entrance to the fortress in Ibiza

Ulazak u luku na Formenteri-The entrance to the port in Formentera

Ulazak u luku na Formenteri-The entrance to the port in Formentera

Ulicica u Valdemosi na Majorci-A street in Valldemossa on Mallorca

Ulicica u Valdemosi na Majorci-A street in Valldemossa on Mallorca

Zidine starog grada Ibice-The walls of the Old Town of Ibiza

Zidine starog grada Ibice-The walls of the Old Town of Ibiza

Detalj sa Palme-A detail from Palma de Mallorca

Detalj sa Palme-A detail from Palma de Mallorca

Palma de Majorka i Ibica su dva najpoznatija ostrva koja, zajedno sa Menorkom i Formenterom čine Baleare, španski arhipelag nadomak Valensije. Palma je sigurno najveća i prešla je put je od masovnog turizma osamdesetih godina prošlog veka do ekskluzivnog koji ima danas. Stara imanja sa kućama preuređena su u butik hotele, a mala mesta kao što su Valdemosa ili Fornaluč
predstavljaju bisere ostrvske arhitekture. Sličan je i stari grad Ibica, Dalt Vila, pod zaštitom Uneska, sa širokim glavnim ulazom u utvrđenje, katedralom i brojnim kamenim uličicama oko nje kojima možete lutati kroz vence bugenvilija i hibiskusa koji padaju sa njihovih belih zidova.

Ludi noćni život i diskoteke koje se ne zatvaraju do kasnih jutarnjih časova čine ovo mesto svetski poznatom atrakcijom za one koji vole tu vrstu provoda, bez ikakvog opredeljenja i predrasuda. Hiljade mladih ljudi uzbuđeno prati zalazak sunca na plaži u Sent Entoniju, nakog čega, po nestanku vatrene lopte, nastaje oduševljeni aplauz praćen ritmovima muzike iz svetski
poznatog obližnjeg Kafea del Mar.

To je Ibica danas, u kojoj, u koliko ste željni pravog odmora, to nije mesto za vas. Likovi koji se popodne polako bude iz noćnog mamurluka i spremaju za novi prolaze nespretno u potrazi za nekim novim provodom koji je bio jedina svrha njihovog dolaska.

Oni koji žele da osete bar malo blagodeti mora odlaze na obližnje ostrvce Formenteru koje je neprekidnim trajektima povezano sa Ibicom. Ono ima duge peščane plaže sa svetlotirkiznom vodom koje podsećaju na karipske, jedino im nedostaju redovi palmi.
Ali ko još na obraća pažnju na to?

Avgust 2013.

__________________________________________________________

Palma de Majorca and Ibiza are the two most well known islands, which together with Menorca and Formentera make up the Balearic islands, a Spanish archipelago not too far from Valencia. Palma is the largest city and has progressed from mass tourism in the 1980s to exclusive tourism at present. Old manors with large houses have been turned into boutique hotels, while the small towns of Valldemossa and Fornalutx are true gems of insular architecture. Similarly, the old town of Ibiza, Dalt Villa, boasts wide main entrance to a fort and cathedral surrounded by numerous narrow, stone paved alleyways where you can stroll amongst bougainvillea and hibiscus growth hanging off the whitewashed walls. The old town is under the protection of UNESCO because of its outstanding beauty and historical heritage.

The crazy night life, where clubs remain open until mid-morning, make Ibiza a world renowned tourist spot for those who like this kind of entertainment, without judgement or prejudice. Thousands of young people applaud excitedly to the setting sun at the beach in Sant Antoni, and once the fiery ball has gone, the applause merges with music flowing from the adjacent, world renowned Café del Mar.

That is today’s Ibiza. If you are looking for a restful holiday then it is not the place for you. Slowly waking up in the late afternoon from the previous night’s hangover, the fun-seekers move about clumsily, already looking for a new thrill – as this was the only reason for their visit in the first place.

For those who want to experience the benefits of the sea at least a little – the adjacent islet of Formentera is only a short ferry ride away from Ibiza. There you will find long sandy beaches and turquoise water, like in the Caribbean, only with the rows of palms missing.

But who cares about that anyway?

August 2013

 

 

Leave a Reply