SOLOMONOVA OSTRVA – SOLOMON ISLANDS

Groblje americkih vojnika-Guadalcanal American Memorial

Groblje americkih vojnika-Guadalcanal American Memorial

Hotel Kralj Solomon je najbolje prenociste u gradu-The best place in town

Hotel Kralj Solomon je najbolje prenociste u gradu-The best place in town

Jedini pristojan klub u glavnom gradu-The only decent club in the capital

Jedini pristojan klub u glavnom gradu-The only decent club in the capital

Mastovite skulpture u drvetu-Imaginative wooden sculptures

Mastovite skulpture u drvetu-Imaginative wooden sculptures

Narodni muzej na otvorenom sa trznim centrom u pozadini-Open-air museum and shopping centre

Narodni muzej na otvorenom sa trznim centrom u pozadini-Open-air museum and shopping centre

Ples uz zvuke Panovih frula ukazuje na poreklo naroda-Pan flute rhythms indicate the origins of these people

Ples uz zvuke Panovih frula ukazuje na poreklo naroda-Pan flute rhythms indicate the origins of these people

Pogled na luku-Harbour view in Honiara

Pogled na luku-Harbour view in Honiara

Crkva u Honijari-Honiara church

Crkva u Honijari-Honiara church

Glavna pijaca-The central market

Glavna pijaca-The central market

To je grupa ostrva u onom delu sveta u koji se ređe ide, u južnom Pacifiku,
između Novih Hebrida, danas Vanuatu, i Papue Nove Gvineje. Te tri zemlje
zajedno čine jedan poluluk, lanac ostrva između severoistočne Australije i
repa Azije, jednu ostrvsku grupaciju u južnom Pacifiku, koja se naziva
Melanezija. Ljudi su tamo neuobičajeno crni za taj deo sveta, toliko crni
kao da su iz središta Afrike, a i prilično su drugačiji od ostalih
stanovnika u zemljama Tihog okeana. Zbog toga vas ipak obuzima tiha strepnja
pri prolasku u sumrak kroz neke delove Honijare, glavnog grada Solomonovih
ostrva, koji je smešten na ostrvu Gvadalkanal. Bez obzira na to što ne
deluju tako prijatno i sa širokim osmehom kao stanovnici susednog Vanuatua,
Solomonci su takođe veseo narod. To se vidi iz njihovog folklora, čiji
elementi neodoljivo podsećaju na muziku Anda sa Panovim frulama, ali znatno
bržim ritmom.
Zemlja je svakako dobila naziv po kralju Solomonu, ali to je ime ostalo iz
vremena lutanja španskih osvajača po tim prostranstvima, koji su mislili da
se ovde krije njegovo blago. Ime, dakle, zvuči impozantno, ali to ipak nije
dovoljno da bi privuklo veća strana ulaganja u ovu zemlju sa predivnim
plažama, koje i dalje ostaju teško dostupne. Kada jednom dođete u
Melaneziju, ipak teško napuštate ovaj zabačeni, zaboravljeni i zapostavljeni
krajičak južnog Pacifika, koji je tako odvojen od ostatka sveta, kao da mu
nikada nije ni pripadao.
Solomonci prave neobične figure od drveta, obojene u crno i optočene sedefom
od školjki, tako da predstavljaju kombinacije raznih čudnovatih bića.
Poseban je i nakit od brojnih vrsta školjki, puževa, ribljih i životinjskih
zuba, koji su spojeni u duge nizove koji obavijaju skoro celo telo. Modni
kreatori bi ga sigurno smatrali ekskluzivnim dodatkom na glamuroznim
modelima.
Odsudne pomorske bitke u Drugom svetskom ratu vodile su se upravo u ovim
vodama južnog Pacifika. Ostaci japanskih i američkih flota iz tog perioda
mogu se svuda videti, negde čak golim okom, neposredno ispod površine mora.
Delovi aviona i njihovi motori razbacani su ne samo duboko u džunglama, već
i u gradskom parku. Turisti iz tada zaraćenih strana danas obilaze ova
mesta, a Japanci prikupljaju kosti svojih palih pilota, nudeći nagrade
lokalom stanovništvu za otkrivanje mesta na kojima leže ostaci oborenih
aviona. Odlučne bitke vodile su se upravo za ostrvo Gvadalkanal, a na brdu
iznad Honijare nalazi se veliki memorijalni centar koji su Amerikanci
napravili u znak sećanja na svoje poginule vojnike. Značajni datumi kojima
se obeležavaju teške i slavne pobede predstavljaju retku priliku da se
podsete da postoji i ovaj deo sveta.
I to je bolje od oblaka potpunog zaborava, koji se nadvio nad ova lepa
ostrva sa još lepšim nazivom, dok kralj Solomon nastavlja svoj biblijski
život na sasvim drugom kraju planete, odakle je potekao.

Februar 2008.
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This archipelago belongs to a part of the world which is seldom visited,
located in the South Pacific, between the New Hebrides, today called Vanuatu
and Papua New Guinea. These three countries form a semi-circular group of
islands, an archipelago between North East Australia and the tail of Asia;
it is called Melanesia. People here are unusually dark for this part of the
world, like they came from Central Africa, and they are quite different from
the rest of the inhabitants of the Pacific states. Passing at sunset through
some parts of the capital Honiara, located on the island of Guadalcanal I
felt a bit uncomfortable. Even though they do not seem as pleasant and with
a broad smile as their neighbours from Vanuatu, Solomon Islanders are also
cheerful people. This is obvious from their folklore which irresistibly
reminds me of music from the Andes, with Pan flutes, but with much quicker
rhythms.
The country definitely got its name after King Solomon, but that is from the
time of Spanish explorers roaming the Pacific, thinking that King Solomon’s
treasure was hidden there. Even though the name sounds imposing, it is not
enough in order to attract considerable foreign investment in this country
with amazing beaches, which are still quite inaccessible. Yet once you are
in Melanesia, you find it hard to leave this forsaken and forgotten corner
of the South Pacific, which seems so far apart from the rest of the world
that it looks like it never belonged to it.
Solomon Islanders make unusual figures carved out of wood, encased in
mother-of-pearl, so that they resemble various combinations of imaginary
beings. Quite special too is jewellery made of numerous kinds of seashells,
snails, animal and fish teeth, all linked into long strings that can wrap
the whole body. Fashion designers would for sure snap it up as an exclusive
accessory on glamorous models.
Crucial naval battles of World War II were fought precisely in these waters
of the South Pacific. The remnants of Japanese and American fleets from
those times can be seen everywhere, sometimes with your bare eyes, just
below the water’s surface. Aircraft parts and engines are scattered not only
deep in the jungle, but also in the city park. Tourists from both countries
that were then at war visit these places nowadays and the Japanese collect
bones of their pilots who died here offering rewards to the locals for
pinpointing the locations of fallen planes. Decisive battles were fought for
Guadalcanal Island itself; while atop a hill above Honiara Americans have
built a large memorial centre in remembrance of their soldiers. Important
dates of the famous, hard won battles, also serve as a rare occasion to
remind themselves that this part of the world exists.
Even that is better than the cloud of total oblivion which is hanging over
these beautiful islands with an even more beautiful name, while King Solomon
continues his biblical existence on the other end of the planet where he
originally came from.

February 2008

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