SINGAPUR – SINGAPORE

Hram i muzej Budinog zuba - The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum

Hram i muzej Budinog zuba – The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum

Hram i muzej Budinog zuba-The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum

Hram i muzej Budinog zuba-The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum

Kineski hram na juznom ostrvu Kusu ili Kornjacinom ostrvu - A Chinese temple on Kusu or Tortoise Island

Kineski hram na juznom ostrvu Kusu ili Kornjacinom ostrvu – A Chinese temple on Kusu or Tortoise Island

Kineski hram na juznom ostrvu Kusu ili Kornjacinom ostrvu-A Chinese temple on Kusu or Tortoise Island

Kineski hram na juznom ostrvu Kusu ili Kornjacinom ostrvu-A Chinese temple on Kusu or Tortoise Island

Kineski hram u kontrastu sa modernom arhitekturom-An ancient temple and modern architecture

Kineski hram u kontrastu sa modernom arhitekturom-An ancient temple and modern architecture

Kolonijalne kuce pastelnih boja - Colourful colonial houses in Chinatown

Kolonijalne kuce pastelnih boja – Colourful colonial houses in Chinatown

Kolonijalne kuce pastelnih boja-Colourful colonial houses in Chinatown

Kolonijalne kuce pastelnih boja-Colourful colonial houses in Chinatown

Kulturni centar u obliku durijana-A durian-shaped performing arts centre Esplanade

Kulturni centar u obliku durijana-A durian-shaped performing arts centre Esplanade

Pogled na grad - A view of the city

Pogled na grad – A view of the city

Pogled na grad-A view of the city

Pogled na grad-A view of the city

Pogled na Singapur s broda-A view of Singapore from the boat

Pogled na Singapur s broda-A view of Singapore from the boat

Slikanje mandale-The sacred art of creating mandala

Slikanje mandale-The sacred art of creating mandala

Centralni poslovni kvart na juznoj obali Singapurske reke-The Central Business District on the Singapore River's south bank

Centralni poslovni kvart na juznoj obali Singapurske reke-The Central Business District on the Singapore River’s south bank

Dekorisan turisticki brod-A decorated tourist boat

Dekorisan turisticki brod-A decorated tourist boat

Detalji na zidu Hindu hrama - Picturesque details of the Sri Mariamman Temple exterior

Detalji na zidu Hindu hrama – Picturesque details of the Sri Mariamman Temple exterior

Detalji na zidu Hindu hrama- Picturesque details of the Sri Mariamman temple exterior

Detalji na zidu Hindu hrama- Picturesque details of the Sri Mariamman temple exterior

Detalji na zidu Hindu hrama-Picturesque details of the Sri Mariamman Temple exterior

Detalji na zidu Hindu hrama-Picturesque details of the Sri Mariamman Temple exterior

Singapur, u prevodu Lavlji grad, jedna je od najmanjih država na svetu,
ostrvo na krajnjem jugu Malajskog poluostrva. Geografski, to su tri termina
u jednom: grad, država i ostrvo, a kulturološki nekoliko nacija: kineska,
malajska, indijska, objedinjene britanskom rukom više od sto godina u oazu
mira, lepote i prosperiteta. Nikome ovde nije potrebna viza i svako je
dobrodošao, naravno bez pomisli da može nelegalno ostati. Tropska lepota i
urbanizacija ovde su u idealnom spoju: sve je savršeno regulisano, uredno,
civilizovano, a ipak sa primesama Dalekog istoka, što Singapuru daje
neodoljivi šarm.
Indijski hram nalazi se u starom delu grada, sa skulpturama božanstava, kao
i krava obojenih u plavo na zidovima hrama. Po toplom mermeru u hramu su
posute latice različitog cveća, dok opojni dim mirisnih štapića obavija
oltar iza koga sveštenik obavlja svoju službu. U neposrednoj blizini nalazi
se kineski hram u obliku velike pagode, prepoznatljiv po crvenim papirnim
balonima i skulpturama Bude. Kinezi čine oko osamdeset procenata stanovnika,
mada svi oni, intimno i zvanično, vole da se nazivaju Singapurcima i ponosni
su na taj status.
Noćni safari u veoma uređenom ambijentu tropske džungle nadomak grada
predstavlja posebno iskustvo. Živa aktivnost mnogih egzotičnih vrsta tokom
noći odvija se nadomak otvorenog vozića, koji prolazi kroz  jedinstveni
ambijent. Tom doživljaju mrak daje notu tajanstvenosti, pa i straha, dok
posmatrate svetlucave oči iz raznih delova šume i zvuke koji dolaze neznano
odkud.
Moj susret sa ovim gradom obeležilo je poznanstvo sa jednim znamenitim
pijanistom našeg doba, koji tamo živi i radi. Zove se Ted Joselson i on je
savremenik, nerazdvojni prijatelj i sledbenik čuvenog svetskog pijaniste
Vladimira Horovica, koga je nasledio posle njegove smrti. Povukao se u ovaj
urbani tropski ambijent, gde uživa u svom umetničkom egu, okružen vrednim
slikama i predmetima iz doba raznih kineskih dinastija u svom domu u
poznatoj ulici Orčard. Zadovoljstvo mu je da obučava mlade talente, a svaki
njegov master class predstavlja pedagoško-umetničku simfoniju i virtuoznost
igre s klavirskim dirkama. Talentovani mali Kinezi, pošto besprekorno
odsviraju ono što im se dâ kao zadatak, žmirkajući poluzatvorenim očima i
bez daha ponovo odslušaju maestra. Tako smo ga i mi slušali.
Ted je maestro svog vremena. Veoma je uticajan u Singapuru; čak je i svoje
prijateljstvo sa predsednikom koristio da bi me ubedio da dođem, živim i
radim u ovom gradu, idealnom za moj posao. Oduševljeno me je vozio kroz novu
četvrt ostrva Sentosa, sa preskupim vilama i stanovima uz obalu, kao jednim
od najlepših ambijenata za život, ali –  bez uspeha. Mada sam neko vreme bio
vođen tom mišlju, jer Singapur je zaista idealno mesto za život, moji lični
i profesionalni putevi vratili su me tamo odakle potičem. Nikada mi nije
bilo žao zbog toga, iako je Tedova ponuda ostala otvorena.
Singapur ima tu magičnu moć da ostavi duboki pečat i želju da mu se ponovo
vratite, možda i zauvek.

Mart 2008.
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Singapore, in translation ‘a lions’ city’ is one of the smallest countries
in the world, an island at the very Southern tip of the Malay Peninsula.
Geographically speaking, there are three landmarks in one: a city, a country
and an island, while culturally there are several nations: Chinese, Malay,
Indian, all unified under British rule for over 100 years into an oasis of
peace, beauty and prosperity. No one needs a visa to visit here and everyone
is welcome; there isn’t even an afterthought that someone may decide to stay
illegally. Tropical beauty and urbanisation are ideally reconciled here:
everything is perfectly regulated, tidy, civilised, yet with a touch of the
Far East which endows Singapore with a special charm.
The Indian temple is in the old part of town, decorated with sculptures of
deities and with sculptures of blue cows sitting on the walls. Warm marble
slabs on the floor are covered in petals of various flowers, while the heady
scent of incense envelopes the altar behind which the priest is performing
the service. In the immediate vicinity there is a Chinese temple in the
shape of a huge pagoda, recognisable by the red paper lanterns and statues
of Buddha. The Chinese make up 80% of the population, even though they all
prefer, officially and personally, to be called Singaporeans and they are
proud of their status.
A night safari in a beautifully kept tropical jungle close to the city is an
unparalleled experience. Lively activities of many exotic species carry on
close to the tourist train which passes through a unique environment. The
experience is enhanced by the darkness which brings on a whiff of mystery,
even fear, while you observe animals’ sparkling eyes from various corners of
the forest, or  hear the sounds not knowing where they are coming from.
My stay in Singapore was marked by meeting a famous pianist who lives and
works there. His name is Tedd Joselson and he is a contemporary of Vladimir
Horovitz, the world famous pianist, whose close friend and follower he was
until his death, when he inherited his legacy. He retired into this urban
tropical environment where he is revelling in his artistic ego, surrounded
by precious paintings and objects from various Chinese dynasties, in his
home on the famous Orchard Road. He enjoys teaching young talents and his
every master class is a symphony of teaching and art, and a virtuoso play
with piano keys. Young talented Chinese pupils, having faultlessly performed
the required piece, sit and listen breathlessly to the maestro perform the
same, with their eyes half closed. That’s how we listened to him too.
Tedd is a maestro of his era. He is very influential in Singapore; he even
used his friendship with the President to try to persuade me to come and
live and work in Singapore – a location ideal for my profession. He drove me
around the new quarters of Sentosa Island with passion, showing me the
extremely expensive villas and apartments on the seafront, the best places
for living that you can imagine, but to no avail. Even though I was tempted
for a while, because Singapore really is an ideal place for living, my
personal and professional attachments took me back to where I am from. I
never regretted it, even though Tedd’s offer is always open.
Singapore has that magical power to leave a deep impression on you and a
desire to return to it, and stay, maybe forever.

March 2008

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