SALVADOR – EL SALVADOR

Iglesia de los Naranjitos, Ahuachapan

Iglesia de los Naranjitos, Ahuachapan

Jahac - A horseman

Jahac – A horseman

Jahac-A horseman

Jahac-A horseman

Jezero Ilopango u krateru vulkana-Crater Lake Ilopango

Jezero Ilopango u krateru vulkana-Crater Lake Ilopango

Narodno pozoriste-The National Theatre

Narodno pozoriste-The National Theatre

Plaza Sunzal na Pacifiku-The El Sunzal beach on the Pacific

Plaza Sunzal na Pacifiku-The El Sunzal beach on the Pacific

Sahrana u unutrasnjosti zemlje-A procession in the interior

Sahrana u unutrasnjosti zemlje-A procession in the interior

Sonsonate, El Salvador

Sonsonate, El Salvador

Spomenik drzavniku u San Salvaroru-The monument of Gerardo Barrios in the capital

Spomenik drzavniku u San Salvaroru-The monument of Gerardo Barrios in the capital

Spomenik Hristu Spasiocu sveta-Monument to the Divine Savior of the World

Spomenik Hristu Spasiocu sveta-Monument to the Divine Savior of the World

Trg slobode u San Salvadoru-Plaza Libertad in San Salvador

Trg slobode u San Salvadoru-Plaza Libertad in San Salvador

U gradu-In a city

U gradu-In a city

Vulkan Bokeron-El Boqueron volcano

Vulkan Bokeron-El Boqueron volcano

Vulkan Isalko u daljini-A panoramic view of Izalco volcano

Vulkan Isalko u daljini-A panoramic view of Izalco volcano

Arheolosko nalaziste San Andres-A pre-Colombian site San Andres

Arheolosko nalaziste San Andres-A pre-Colombian site San Andres

Crkva Golgota u centru glavnog grada-The Calvary Church in the centre of the capital

Crkva Golgota u centru glavnog grada-The Calvary Church in the centre of the capital

Drvo kao nacionalni simbol-Maquilishuat tree-a national symbol

Drvo kao nacionalni simbol-Maquilishuat tree-a national symbol

Bienvenido hermàno salvadoreño, El Salvador es tu país – “Dobro došao salvadorski brate, Salvador je tvoja zemlja”. To je natpis koji je visoko postavljen na ulazu u park sa velikim jezerom u glavnom gradu i koji mi se zauvek urezao u sećanje. Tom rečenicom se, posle dugog građanskog rata, pozivaju svi izbegli stanovnici da se vrate u domovinu. Očajnički zvuči i sam poziv i ambijent u koji se pozivaju izbeglice, kao da ni jedna strana nije sigurna da li to stvarno želi i da li je sve što je sprečavalo njihov povratak zaista i završeno. Izvesna količina agresije na ulicama i dalje lebdi u teškom i opojnom vazduhu, sazdanom od vlage i izduvnih gasova.
I pored dugo čekane i teško stečene vize u konzulatu u Meksiku, na granici traže još pedeset dolara da bi dopustili ulazak u zemlju, i tu nema rasprave – ili plati ili se vraćaj. Tako je izgledalo početkom devedesetih godina prošlog veka.
Oko velike i stare kolonijalne katedrale u centru grada smeštena je ogromna buvlja pijaca, na kojoj se čuju gromoglasni latino ritmovi Centralne Amerike. Oni lebde nad tim delom grada i spajaju se u salsu, koja im znači život, uz koju se voli i umire od ljubavi. Dopiru njeni brzi i promenljivi ritmovi do sveštenika u katedrali, mešajući se sa zvucima mise, u sazvučju različitih tonova u kome niko nije siguran šta zapravo čuje.
A možda i ne želimo da bilo šta slušamo, osim da uđemo u ogromni autobus metalne boje kompanije Tica Bus, koji vozi transameričkom magistralom od Gvatemale do Paname i skuplja ili ostavlja putnike po svojoj uhodanoj centralnoameričkoj putanji.

Februar 1992.
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Bienvenido hermàno salvadoreño, El Salvador es tu país – ‘Welcome – Salvadoran brother, Salvador is your country’. I saw this inscription high above the entrance to a park with a big lake, in the capital, and it stayed indelibly in my memory. After the long civil war all refugees were called back home with this sentence. Both the call to the refugees and the environment to which they were called to return seemed a little desperate, as though neither side was sure that that was what they really wanted; they were not sure that whatever has prevented their return was truly over. The streets do not appear very friendly; a considerable amount of aggressiveness can be detected in the air, heavy with humidity and exhaust fumes.
Even though I had to wait for a long time and put a lot of effort into getting the visa at the Consulate of El Salvador in Mexico, at the border they requested an additional 50 dollars to let me into the country, and there was no discussion about it, you either pay or you go back. That’s what it looked like in the early 1990s.
Around the big old colonial cathedral in the city centre, there is a huge flea market from which Latin rhythms of Central America are booming. The sounds hover above this part of the city, merging into salsa, which means life to them – it accompanies both the joy of love and the sadness of a broken heart. Its rapid rhythms reach even the priest in the cathedral, mixing with the sounds of the mass, into a cacophony which leaves you confused about what exactly you are hearing.
Yet, we may not want to listen to anything really, we just want to board a huge metallic bus belonging to the Tica Bus company which travels down the trans-American highway from Guatemala to Panama, shedding passengers along its well-trodden Central American route.

February 1992

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