RUANDA – RWANDA

Spokojan-Cool

Spokojan-Cool

Srebrna ledja-Master Silverback

Srebrna ledja-Master Silverback

Uputstva pre polaska-Instructions before leaving

Uputstva pre polaska-Instructions before leaving

Vulkan sa "cudnim zubima"-Volcano Sabyinyo (3700 m)  meaning something that has odd teeth

Vulkan sa “cudnim zubima”-Volcano Sabyinyo (3700 m) meaning something that has odd teeth

Vulkan cije ime znaci vodic-Volcano Muhabura (4127 m) meaning something that can show you the way

Vulkan cije ime znaci vodic-Volcano Muhabura (4127 m) meaning something that can show you the way

Zaigran-Playful

Zaigran-Playful

Iza resetaka-Behind the bars

Iza resetaka-Behind the bars

Nepoverljivi-Doubtful

Nepoverljivi-Doubtful

Slatki dremez-Sweet dream

Slatki dremez-Sweet dream

Zemlja sa stotinu brda i hiljadu osmeha. Slojeviti pejzaž u izmaglici pruža
se preko talasastih brda sve do planinskog venca Virunga prema Ugandi i
Kongu, dok vas u prolazu dočekuju i prate nasmejana lica stanovnika ove
zemlje. Žene su veoma lepe, vitke i gracilne, sa bisernim osmehom na
sićušnom licu. Toliko su lepe da Relja Mirković, moj prijatelj i urednik
fotografija u ovoj knjizi, nije odoleo jednoj od njih i doveo je u Beograd
kao svoju devojku.
Zla sreća, koja je pratila istoriju Ruande, kao da se ne odražava na licima
njenih stanovnika, koji žele da je potisnu svojim osmehom. Belgijanci su
vladali ovom zemljom i susednim Burundijem, oslobodili se njihovog
poslednjeg i zajedničkog kralja pre više od pola veka, a zatim favorizovali
manjinski narod Tutsi u odnosu na većinski Hutu. Sve je to dovelo do
četvorogodišnjeg građanskog rata, koji je kulminirao 1994. godine, jednim od
najbrutalnijih genocida u novijoj svetskoj istoriji, u kome je za sto dana
ubijeno milion ljudi. Kao tužno podsećanje na te događaje ostao je Muzej
genocida u glavnom gradu Kigaliju.
Pre svitanja prolazim kroz šumu eukaliptusa na putu ka mestu koje sam oduvek
želeo da posetim i koje je glavni razlog mog dolaska u Ruandu. Nacionalni
park vulkana ukazuje se u svitanje, sa tri prepoznatljiva vulkanska oboda,
od kojih je jedan karakterističnog oblika – podseća na zube gorile. U svom
prirodnom habitatu u kome konačno mogu bezbrižno da žive, brojne porodice
tih divnih stvorenja uživaju u slobodi u kojoj ih više niko ne progoni.
Američka istraživateljka Dajen Fosi provela je osamnaest godina sa gorilama,
želeći da ih odbrani od spoljnog sveta i bezobzirnih lovaca, a o životu te
neobične žene, posvećenom proučavanju i zaštiti gorila, snimljen je, prema
njenoj knjizi, poznati film Gorile u magli. U teškim i zlim vremenima po ovu
zemlju, život su joj oduzeli protivnici njenog rada i borbe za očuvanje te
životinjske vrste. Imala je samo pedeset tri godine. U teško pristupačnoj
dubini nacionalnog parka nalazi se Dajenin grob, u kome se sahranjuju i
njeni ljubimci za koje je žrtvovala život.
Ne dolazi se tako lako do gorila i, priznajem, to mi je bio najteži treking
u životu. Višečasovno teško probijanje, najpre kroz šumu bambusa, a potom,
kada se dođe na visinu veću od dve hiljade metara gde bambus više ne raste,
nastavlja se put kroz jedva prohodno rastinje, koje vodiči seku mačetama.
Nekoliko puta sam propadao kroz vence lijana i vlažnu paprat, izgreban
bodljama i opečen koprivom, proklinjao trenutak kad sam krenuo, ali se ipak
s ponosom osećao kao Indijana Džons.
Najveća porodica gorila, koja je bila cilj ovog pohoda, nazvana je imenom
Susa. Nekoliko ogromnih mužjaka sa dlakom srebrne boje na leđima, koji se i
nazivaju Silverback, ponosno su demonstrirali nadmoć ili bezbrižno brstili
bambusove grane u sedećem položaju i, sa ogromnim trbusima, podsećajući na
Budu. Ženke su se igrale sa mladuncima, mlade gorile pokušavale da se
takmiče sa starijim, dok smo im mi, oslobođeni svakog straha, prilazili sve
bliže. Na rastojanju od samo nekoliko metara bili smo umorni i srećni, kao
da smo deo te porodice, čiji bi nam članovi tek ponekad uputili
ljubopitljivi pogled. Upozoreni smo da ne uzvraćamo dugo taj pogled, niti da
koristimo fleš fotoaparata. Te trenutke neću nikada zaboraviti; zbog njih i
za Dajen je vredelo žrtvovati sve, pa i sopstveni život. Dok sam posmatrao
srećne gorile, pomislio sam da je i ona srećna u nekom drugom svetu u kome
nastavlja da razgovara sa njima.
Današnji Hutu i Tutsi izgledaju isto tako srećno u svojoj lepoj brdovitoj
zemlji, želeći da takva sreća, ovoga puta, dugo potraje.

Februar 2011.
______________________________________________________

A country with hundreds of hills and thousands of smiles. A multi-layered
landscape enveloped in mist, stretches across undulating hills to the
Virunga Mountains, towards Uganda and Congo, while in passing you encounter
the smiling faces of this country’s inhabitants. The women are very
beautiful, slim and gracious, with a pearly smile on their small faces. They
are so beautiful that my friend and a photo editor for this book, Relja
Mirković, could not resist one of them and brought her over to Belgrade as
his girlfriend.
The bad luck that has permeated the history of Rwanda does not seem to be
reflected on the faces of its people; it is as though they want to drive it
away with their smiles. The Belgians ruled this country and the neighbouring
Burundi, they got rid of their last, common king more than 50 years ago and
then they favoured the minority Tutsi people over the majority of Hutu
people. All that led to a four year civil war culminating in 1994 with one
of the most brutal genocides in the recent history of the world. One million
people were killed during 100 days. The Museum of Genocide in the capital
Kigali stands as a sad reminder of those events.
Before dawn breaks out I pass through the eucalyptus forest on my way to the
place I have always wanted to visit; it is the main reason of my travel to
Rwanda. Volcanoes National Park emerges at dawn, with three peculiar volcano
crater tops, one of which is shaped unusually, like gorilla’s teeth. In
their natural habitat where they can finally live carefree, numerous
families of these lovely creatures enjoy the freedom as no one is
persecuting them anymore. An American explorer, Dian Fossey, spent 18 years
with gorillas, in her quest to protect them from the outside world and
ruthless hunters; a film was made about her unusual life, entirely devoted
to the research and preservation of gorillas, based on her book Gorillas in
the Mist. During difficult and evil times in Rwanda, her life was taken by
the adversaries of her work and her fight to preserve this animal species.
She was only 53 years old. Deep in the Park’s forest, at an almost
inaccessible place you can find Dian’s grave; her beloved gorillas, for whom
she sacrificed her life, are also buried here.
It is not easy to reach the gorillas, and I admit, this was the most
demanding trekking I have ever done. First of all, many hours pushing
forward  with difficulty through the bamboo forest until you reach the
altitude of 2000 metres after which bamboo does not grow anymore; this is
followed by struggling through such thick vegetation that the guides have to
cut through it with machettes. Several times I fell through the wreaths of
vine and damp fern, scratched by thorns and stung by nettles, I cursed the
moment I decided to go on this trip, yet I felt with pride like Indiana
Jones.
The largest gorilla family by name of Susa, was my final destination. A few
huge males with silver coloured fur on their backs, the so-called
Silverbacks, proudly demonstrated their might or else grazed on bamboo
leaves in a relaxed seated position. With their huge bellies they reminded
me of Buddha. Females were playing with their baby gorillas, young gorillas
were trying to compete with the older ones, while we were getting closer and
closer to them, free of any fear. When we reached the distance of only a few
metres away, we felt tired and happy, like we were part of that family who
would look at us only occasionally with curiosity. We were warned not to
return the gaze for too long, nor to use camera flash. I will never forget
these moments; for Dian they were worth every sacrifice, even her own life.
While observing these happy gorillas, I thought that perhaps she was happy
too, in another world, where she continues to talk to them.
Today, Hutu and Tutsi peoples look equally happy in their beautiful hilly
country, hoping that this happiness will last for a long time, this time
round.

February 2011

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