PORTUGALIJA – PORTUGAL

Kapucinski samostan-Convent of the Capuchos

Kapucinski samostan-Convent of the Capuchos

Krovovi Lisabona i reka Tezo-Roofs of Lisbon and Tejo River

Krovovi Lisabona i reka Tezo-Roofs of Lisbon and Tejo River

Lift i vidikovac po Ajfelovom nacrtu-The Santa Justa Lift

Lift i vidikovac po Ajfelovom nacrtu-The Santa Justa Lift

Palata Keluz-Queluz National Palace

Palata Keluz-Queluz National Palace

Palata u Sintri- Quinta da Regaleira Palace in Sintra

Palata u Sintri- Quinta da Regaleira Palace in Sintra

Plaza u Lagosu na jugu zemlje-Lagos beach in the South

Plaza u Lagosu na jugu zemlje-Lagos beach in the South

Ajfelov most preko reke Douro u Portu-Eiffel bridge over river Douro in Porto

Ajfelov most preko reke Douro u Portu-Eiffel bridge over river Douro in Porto

Crkva u Portu-Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina, Porto

Crkva u Portu-Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina, Porto

Dvorac Pena u Sintri-Pena National Palace in Sintra

Dvorac Pena u Sintri-Pena National Palace in Sintra

Fado je portugalski duh-Fado is the spirit of Portugal

Fado je portugalski duh-Fado is the spirit of Portugal

Grob Vaska da Game-Vasco da Gama's grave

Grob Vaska da Game-Vasco da Gama’s grave

Jeronimitski samostan-Jeronimos Monastery

Jeronimitski samostan-Jeronimos Monastery

Kapija jedne kuce-A port of a house

Kapija jedne kuce-A port of a house

Toranj Belem kao simbol pomorske moci-Belem Tower as a symbol of maritime power

Toranj Belem kao simbol pomorske moci-Belem Tower as a symbol of maritime power

Spomenik pomorskim otkricima-Monument of the maritime discoveries Padrao dos Descobrimentos

Spomenik pomorskim otkricima-Monument of the maritime discoveries Padrao dos Descobrimentos

Zalazak sunca na tvrdjavi Sao Zorge-Sunset on the Castle of Sao Jorge

Zalazak sunca na tvrdjavi Sao Zorge-Sunset on the Castle of Sao Jorge

Trg Pedra IV-Pedro IV Square

Trg Pedra IV-Pedro IV Square

Vrt palate u Sintri-Garden of Quinta da Regaleira Palace in Sintra

Vrt palate u Sintri-Garden of Quinta da Regaleira Palace in Sintra

Zidovi od kostiju crkve u Evori-Chapel of bones of St. Francis Church in Evora

Zidovi od kostiju crkve u Evori-Chapel of bones of St. Francis Church in Evora

Pogled na Lisabon-A view of Lisbon

Pogled na Lisabon-A view of Lisbon

Pozoriste i opera- Teatro da Trindade in Lisbon

Pozoriste i opera- Teatro da Trindade in Lisbon

Spomenik najpoznatijem piscu-Fernando Pessoa-monument in bronze

Spomenik najpoznatijem piscu-Fernando Pessoa-monument in bronze

Svetionik najzapadnije tacke Evrope-The Cabo da Roca lighthouse, westernmost extent of Europe

Svetionik najzapadnije tacke Evrope-The Cabo da Roca lighthouse, westernmost extent of Europe

Tramvaji Lisabona-Lisbon cablecars

Tramvaji Lisabona-Lisbon cablecars

Rimski hram i katedrala u Evori-Roman temple and cathedral in Evora

Rimski hram i katedrala u Evori-Roman temple and cathedral in Evora

Ova najzapadnija evropska zemlja uvek je u meni budila posebno osećanje, koje se veoma razlikovalo od bilo kog drugog. Možda je uzrok tome fado. Taj čudesan i tipičan zvuk za ovu zemlju mešavina je muzike latinskih trubadura i mističnih rituala crne Afrike. On odaje ono što Portugalci i svi njihovi kolonijalni narodi objedinjuju u jednoj reči, saudáde: tuga, nedostajanje, žudnja, strast, radost i bol istovremeno, žal za izgubljenim i prošlim, za ljubavlju, mladošću, emocijama… I sve se to sluša u lokalnim kafanama po celu noć, dok se turisti ne raziđu, dok lokalni moreplovac ne zavede svoju devojku, ili ostavljeni omami od pića. Ni miris neizbežnog sušenog bakalara, koji je nacionalni specijalitet, pomešan sa mirisom užeglog maslinovog ulja i ruzmarina neće ga izbaviti od pijanstva.
Tako živi Lisabon uz reku Težo, kojom su moreplovci vekovima ulazili u grad preko lučke kapetanije u vidu bele kule Torre de Belém i donosili svojim kraljevima blago iz prekookeanskih kolonija. Od tog blaga je kralj Emanuel sagradio samostan i katedralu São Jerónimo, gde se nalazi grob najpoznatijeg svetskog moreplovca Vaska da Game, ali koji je sahranjen u gradu Kočinu, na jugu Indije.
Lepote ove zemlje su beskrajne, a njena prednost je u tome što je relativno mala. Brzo možete stići iz jednog mesta u drugo, ali ih je teško napustiti, omamljeni lepotom starih manastira i trgova, malih ribarskih luka, kao i burnom istorijom koja progovara iz svakog kamena.
Porto ili Oporto, kako grad nazivaju Portugalci, posebne je lepote. Tu sam prvi put video most na dva nivoa, ispod koga su smeštene stare vinarije portnih vina u malim, kamenom popločanim ulicama. Tu je degustacija tih vina praćena posebnim zadovoljstvom i neizbežnom blagom opijenošću. Koimbra, najstariji evropski univerzitetski grad posle Bolonje, smešten je unutrašnjosti zemlje, Evora ima crkvenu grobnicu jedinstvenu u svetu, čiji su zidovi potpuno optočeni kostima i lobanjam monaha koji su tu vekovima živeli i umirali u slavu Hrista. Sintru, blizu Lisabona, davno je pohodio mlađahni Bajron u potrazi za inspiracijom, koju je našao u zamku koji kao da lebdi na visoravni s pogledom u beskraj, a naziva se Palácio da Pena. Mistični povratak u daleku prošlost doživljava se u starom kapucinskom manastiru Monasterio dos Capuchos, skrivenom u dubokim šumama eukaliptusa, sa minijaturnim monaškim ćelijama, obraslim vekovnom mahovinom i s prozorskim oknima od kore drveta. Iz takvih samostana kretale su misije koje su širile veru po Brazilu, kao najvećoj koloniji, i brojnim drugim portugalskim kolonijama širom sveta, asketski, ali odlučno i često surovo, što je verno prikazano u filmu Misija. Činjenica je da su u najveći broj kolonija u svetu najpre došli Portugalci, a zatim neki drugi, treći… Odlučnost, radoznalost, neumoljivo širenje vere i, naravno, dobijanje naklonosti kraljeva i princeza pribavljanjem bogatstva, bili su im najvažniji motivi. Ostaci tog bogatstva danas se nalaze u muzejima, ali i u patiniranoj arhitekturi kitnjastih građevina skrivenih u stoletnim šumama, koje kriju tajne portugalskih moreplovaca.
Vaskov duh i dalje svuda lebdi.

Decembar 1987.
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This Westernmost European country always instilled in me special feelings, completely different from any other. Perhaps the reason for this was fado. This mysterious sound, typical of this country, is a mixture of music of the Latin troubadours and mystical rituals of black Africa. The sound represents something that all the Portuguese and all their colonies summarise in one word: saudáde – sorrow, longing, desire, passion, joy and suffering at the same time, mourning over things lost and gone, yearning for love, youth, emotions…And all this can be heard in local bars throughout the night, until tourists disperse, until the local sailor seduces his girl, or the abandoned one gets totally drunk. Not even the unavoidable smell of smoked codfish, a national dish, mixed with the smells of rosemary and rancid olive oil, can sober him up.
Lisbon lives on the river Tagus (Tejo), which, for centuries, has led sailors through the port authority house, shaped like a white tower – Torre de Belém, to their kings, to whom they presented gifts and treasures from their overseas colonies. From this treasure King Emanuel built both the monastery and the cathedral of São Jerónimo, which is home to the grave of the world’s most famous seaman, Vasco da Gama, even though he was buried in Kochin in the South India. Natural beauties of this country are endless and it goes in its favour that it is relatively small. You can move from one place to another quickly, but it is difficult to leave as you get enchanted by the splendour of old monasteries and squares, small fishing ports, and their turbulent history which seems to speak from every stone.
Porto, or Oporto, as the Portuguese call it, is a city of exceptional beauty. This is where I saw, for the first time, a bridge with two levels, below which are old port wineries along small streets paved with stone. Here, winetasting brings on special pleasure and unavoidable tipsiness. Coimbra, with the world’s oldest university after Bologna, is in the country’s hinterland, while Évora has a unique tomb chapel whose walls are covered entirely in bones and skulls of the monks who, for centuries, lived and died there, celebrating Christ. Sintra, not far away from Lisbon, was visited by the young Byron, who came here in search of inspiration. He found it in a castle which appears to be almost hovering on a highland with a view stretching to infinity, called Palácio da Pena. A mystical journey back to the remote past starts at the old monastery of the Capuchin order, Monasterio dos Capuchos, hidden deep in the eucalyptus forest; miniature monk cells covered in centuries old moss, have windows made of tree bark. It is from the monasteries like this one that missionaries went to Brazil, the largest colony as well as to the other Portuguese colonies around the world, to spread the faith; they carried out their tasks in an ascetic and decisive way, but also often ruthlessly, as depicted in the film The Mission. It is a fact that the Portuguese acquired the largest number of colonies first, and then came the second and the third colonisers…Decisiveness, curiosity, ruthless spreading of their faith and, of course, winning the favour of kings and princesses by amassing wealth, were their main motives. The remainders of this wealth are to be found in museums nowadays, but also in the old architecture of garish buildings hidden in centuries old forests; they also hide the secrets of Portuguese seamen.
The spirit of Vasco da Gama is still hovering around.

December 1987

 

Madeira – Madeira

Gradsko pozoriste-Municipality theatre

Gradsko pozoriste-Municipality theatre

Katedrala u glavnom gradu-The Cathedral of Funchal

Katedrala u glavnom gradu-The Cathedral of Funchal

Lokalna riba-Local fish black scabbard

Lokalna riba-Local fish black scabbard

Lokalni hleb-A local bread

Lokalni hleb-A local bread

Novo naselje na obodu Funsala-New settlement in the outskirts of Funchal

Novo naselje na obodu Funsala-New settlement in the outskirts of Funchal

Okicena crkva-Decorated parish church Our Lady of Monte

Okicena crkva-Decorated parish church Our Lady of Monte

Palata u centru grada-Sao Lourenco Palace

Palata u centru grada-Sao Lourenco Palace

Pogled na Funsal sa vrha ostrva-A view of Funchal from the island's top

Pogled na Funsal sa vrha ostrva-A view of Funchal from the island’s top

Sanke na asfaltu u gradicu Monte-Sledge drivers of Monte

Sanke na asfaltu u gradicu Monte-Sledge drivers of Monte

Tipicne ostrvske kuce u Santani - Typical island houses of Santana village

Tipicne ostrvske kuce u Santani – Typical island houses of Santana village

Tipicne ostrvske kuce u Santani-Typical island houses of Santana village

Tipicne ostrvske kuce u Santani-Typical island houses of Santana village

U centru glavnog grada-In the centre of Funchal

U centru glavnog grada-In the centre of Funchal

Kontrast je samo jedna od karakteristika ove grupe ostrva duboko u Atlantiku, na oko hiljadu kilometara daleko od Lisabona. Najveća i jedina naseljena ostrva Madeira i Porto Santo veoma se razlikuju; Madeira je sva u brdima i šumama eukaliptusa, dok je Porto Santo ravan i sa dugim peščanim plažama.

Mali broj odabranih posetilaca zna da je ovde utočište nalazio Vinston Čerčil koji je voleo da slika Madeiru i ovde napisao jednu od svojih prvih priča, u predahu između važnih državničkih odluka. Ali i Bernard Šo, Fidel Kastro, Habsburško plemstvo, svi su voleli ovo ostrvo sa prolećnom klimom preko cele godine, u koje, kaže se, dolazi proleće da provede zimu, najlepšim vrtovima sa egzotičnim biljkama, čuvenim vinima i vidikovcima od kojih zastaje dah.

Glavni grad Funšal pruža takve poglede na Atlantik kao iz prirodnog amfiteatra koji presecaju dve duge žičare koje skraćuju distancu vijugavih puteva do vrhova Madeire ili do živopisnog sela Monte sa kolonijalnom arhitekturom. Posebne drvene sanke carrinhos spuštaju turiste po uglačanom betonu, vođene veštim rukama vodiča u tradicionalnim kostimima koji trče pored njih. U staroj crkvi Nossa Senhora do Monte nalazi se grobnica austrougarskog cara Karla I koga su saveznici ovde proterali nakon što je izgubio Prvi svetski rat.

Madeiru, ili kako je još nazivaju “Rajskim ostrvom“, otkrio je davne 1418. godine princ Henrik Moreplovac, a i sam Kolumbo ga je posećivao nekoliko puta dok se nije oženio ćerkom guvernera Porto Santa. Kažu da su ga Henrikove pomorske karte uverile u postojanje Novog sveta. Više kao san nego kao stvarnost, ovo ostrvo retke lepote pruža planine obrasle zelenilom i cvetne doline sa svim vrstama voća i cveća koje se može zamisliti, zahvaljujući svojoj suptropskoj klimi. Botaničke bašte ovde su prava umetnička dela sa kolonijalnim posedima koji se nazivaju quinta. Religiozni festivali i proslave koji se organizuju više puta u toku godine povod su za zajedničko okupljanje meštana i turista u nepreglednom slavlju sa pevanjem i pucanjem koje traje čitavu noć.

Daleko od gradova punih napetosti savremenog tempa na kontinentu, Madeira je prava oaza mira, radosti, lepote i povratka ravnoteži života.

Avgust 2013.

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Contrast is just one of the characteristics of this archipelago situated deep in the Atlantic, around a thousand kilometres away from Lisbon. Madeira and Porto Santo, the largest and the only populated islands, could not be more different from each other. Madeira is hilly and covered in eucalyptus greenery whereas Porto Santo is flat with long sandy beaches.

A few select visitors know that Winston Churchill sought refuge here; he liked to paint Madeira and here he wrote one of the his first stories while on a break from important state affairs. But he was not the only one – George Bernard Shaw, Fidel Castro, the Habsburgs – they all loved this island with its spring-like climate throughout the year. It is said that ‘spring escapes winter by coming to Madeira’  – an island with exotic gardens, famous wines and vistas that take your breath away.

The capital Funchal abounds in such views over the Atlantic – it feels as though you are watching from atop a natural amphitheatre criss-crossed by two long cable car routes. They take you to the top of Madeira cutting short the long winding roads or to the picturesque village of Monte which boasts colonial architecture. Peculiar sledges called carrinhos are deftly manouvered by traditonally clad guides who run alongside them, taking tourists down the hill on the polished concrete. In the old church of Our Lady of Monte you can find the tomb of the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Charles I, who was exiled here by the Allies at the end of World War I.

Madeira, or the ‘Paradise Island’ as it has been called, was discovered in 1418 by Prince Henry the Navigator; Columbus himself visited the island many times until he got married to the daughter of the Governor of Porto Santo. It is claimed that Prince Henry’s naval maps convinced Columbus of the existence of the New World. This island of exquisite beauty has a dreamlike quality about it – the mountains are covered in vegetation, the valleys are bursting with all kinds of flowers and fruits you can imagine, thanks to its subtropical climate. The botanical gardens are true works of art, and are located in colonial manors called quinta. The religious festivals and celebrations that happen throughout the year bring together the locals and the tourists in a never-ending fête with singing and shooting until late hours.

Far away from the continental cities that carry the everyday tensions of modern living, Madeira is a real oasis of peace, joy, beauty and life balance.

August 2013               

 

 

Azorska ostrva – Azores – Açores

Crkva Nase Gospe od mira-Sanctuary of Our Lady of Peace

Crkva Nase Gospe od mira-Sanctuary of Our Lady of Peace

Crkva Nase Gospe od radosti iz botanickog vrta-The Church of Our Lady of Joy, from the botanical garden in Furnas

Crkva Nase Gospe od radosti iz botanickog vrta-The Church of Our Lady of Joy, from the botanical garden in Furnas

Crkva Nase Gospe od radosti-The Church of Our Lady of Joy in Furnas

Crkva Nase Gospe od radosti-The Church of Our Lady of Joy in Furnas

Crkva pripremljena za proslavu - A church prepared for celebration

Crkva pripremljena za proslavu – A church prepared for celebration

Crkva pripremljena za proslavu-A church prepared for celebration

Crkva pripremljena za proslavu-A church prepared for celebration

Crkva u parku-A church in the park

Crkva u parku-A church in the park

Gde li je kopno-Where is that land

Gde li je kopno-Where is that land

Jezero na ostrvu Sao Migel-A lake on Sao Miguel Island

Jezero na ostrvu Sao Migel-A lake on Sao Miguel Island

Karakteristicna arhitektura Azorskih ostrva-The characteristic architecture of the Azores

Karakteristicna arhitektura Azorskih ostrva-The characteristic architecture of the Azores

Kitolovac-A whaleboat

Kitolovac-A whaleboat

Manastir Svetog Fransisa - The Convent of Sao Francisco

Manastir Svetog Fransisa – The Convent of Sao Francisco

Manastir Svetog Fransisa -The Convent of Sao Francisco

Manastir Svetog Fransisa -The Convent of Sao Francisco

Manastir Svetog Fransisa-The Convent of Sao Francisco

Manastir Svetog Fransisa-The Convent of Sao Francisco

Nacionalni park - The National park Sete Cidades on Sao Miguel Island

Nacionalni park – The National park Sete Cidades on Sao Miguel Island

Nacionalni park-The National park Sete Cidades on Sao Miguel Island

Nacionalni park-The National park Sete Cidades on Sao Miguel Island

Ostrvce Princezin prsten-The Princess' Ring Islet

Ostrvce Princezin prsten-The Princess’ Ring Islet

Pogled na gradic-A view of Vila Franca do Campo

Pogled na gradic-A view of Vila Franca do Campo

Pogled na Vila Franku i Princezin prsten-A view of Vila Franca do Campo and Princess' Ring islet

Pogled na Vila Franku i Princezin prsten-A view of Vila Franca do Campo and Princess’ Ring islet

Ponta Delgada je glavni grad ostrva Sao Migel-Ponta Delgada-the capital of Sao Miguel Island

Ponta Delgada je glavni grad ostrva Sao Migel-Ponta Delgada-the capital of Sao Miguel Island

Pripremanje hrane u vulkanskoj zemlji-Preparing food in the volcanic soil

Pripremanje hrane u vulkanskoj zemlji-Preparing food in the volcanic soil

Sumporno kupaliste u botanickoj ba+íti-Sulphuric bath in the botanical garden in Furnas

Sumporno kupaliste u botanickoj ba+íti-Sulphuric bath in the botanical garden in Furnas

U botanickoj basti-In the botanical garden

U botanickoj basti-In the botanical garden

Ukrasena crkva-A decorated church in Vila Franca do Campo

Ukrasena crkva-A decorated church in Vila Franca do Campo

Vila Franca do Campo

Vila Franca do Campo

Ovaj arhipelag od devet ostrva usred Atlantika pravi je raj za ljubitelje prirode i, možda, ostatak legendarne Atlantide, kako neki naučnici veruju. Ukrašena planinskim lancima i bogatom vegetacijom u kojoj prednjače slapovi hortenzija na svakom koraku, ova ostrva predstavljaju spoj mora i kopna u kome krateri starih vulkana kriju lagune i jezera.

Nalaze se skoro na polovini puta između Evrope i Amerike, tako da danas veliki broj stanovnika živi u Bostonu, ali im se i polako vraća. Niko ne može odoleti ovoj lepoti i miru, uprkos snažnom osećaju usamljenosti i izolovanosti od ostatka sveta.

Kažu da je ovo magično mesto na zemlji najbliže raju. Rođena iz nepreglednog Atlantika Azorska ostrva spajaju američko i evropsko tle kao pupčanom vrpcom. Veličina i dobrota njihovih ljudi kao i neobična istorija ispisani su u crnom, vulkanskom kamenu koji čini obode svih crkava i manastira na ostrvima. Teška ali plodna zemlja okružena vulkanima i beskrajnim morem pruža ovom narodu sve, od prirodnih lepota i jezera Sete Cidades na severu ostrva São Miguel, preko sumpornih kupališta u mestašcu Furnas, do botaničkih vrtova sa svim vrstama egzotičnih biljaka i cveća, lokalnih sireva i vina, vulkana Piko na istoimenom ostrvu i sakralnih objekata od kojih se neki pretvaraju  hotele.

Boravaku takvom manastiru São Francisco uz duhovnu muziku davnih vremena bio je kao povratak u prošlost, susret sa moreplovcima koji su otkrivali ova ostrva početkom XV veka ili duhovima kaluđerica koje su živele u ćelijama manastira i gledale u pučinu koja jedina stalna.

Azorska ostrva su poslednja granica na Atlantiku.

Avgust 2013.                   

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This archipelago of nine islands in the middle of the Atlantic is a true paradise for nature lovers and, as some scientists believe, could be the remnant of the legendary Atlantis. These islands are endowed with mountain chains and lush vegetation, mostly bushes of hydrangea at every turn; they are a blend of land and sea, with ancient volcanoes nestling hidden lagoons and lakes.

The islands are located almost half way between Europe and the US; a large number of their original inhabitants are to be found in Boston nowadays, but they are gradually going back to the Azores. No one can resist this beauty and tranquility, despite an overwhelming feeling of loneliness and being cut off from the rest of the world.

It is said that this magical place is as close to heaven as you can get on Earth. Born out of the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores connect American and European soils as if by an umbilical cord. The stature and kindness of the Azoreans, as well as their unusual history, are all documented in black volcanic slates that enclose all the churches and monasteries on the islands. Heavy yet fertile soil, surrounded by volcanoes and infinite sea, gives its people everything they need. The list is endless: the natural beauty of the lakes Sete Cidades in the north of São Miguel island, the sulphur baths in the small town of Furnas, the botanical gardens with all sorts of exotic plants and flowers, the local cheese and wine, the volcanic Mount Pico on Pico island, the sacral monuments, some of which have been turned into hotels…

Staying at the Monastery of São Francisco while listening to the sacral music of times gone by, transported me to a distant past – I felt as though I had met the sea explorers who discovered these islands at the start of the 15th century, or the ghosts of the nuns who occupied these monastic cells, gazing at the sea, the only unchanging element around here.

The Azores are the last frontier in the Atlantic.

August 2013

 

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