PERU – PERU – PERÚ

Jedna lama sama-A lonely llama

Jedna lama sama-A lonely llama

Jezero na Kordiljerima-A lake in the Cordilleras

Jezero na Kordiljerima-A lake in the Cordilleras

Karavan lama-Llamas in the caravan

Karavan lama-Llamas in the caravan

Katedrala Santo Domingo u Kusku-Santo Domingo Cathedral in Cusco

Katedrala Santo Domingo u Kusku-Santo Domingo Cathedral in Cusco

Lame-The llamas

Lame-The llamas

Macu Pikcu-sveti grad Inka-Machu Picchu-Inca sanctuary

Macu Pikcu-sveti grad Inka-Machu Picchu-Inca sanctuary

Male lame-Small llamas

Male lame-Small llamas

Na visoravni Altiplano-On the Peruvian Altiplano

Na visoravni Altiplano-On the Peruvian Altiplano

Plutajuca ostrva na jezeru Titikaka-Floating islands on the Lake Titicaca

Plutajuca ostrva na jezeru Titikaka-Floating islands on the Lake Titicaca

Trg San Martin u Limi-Plaza San Martin in Lima

Trg San Martin u Limi-Plaza San Martin in Lima

Ulicna scena-A street scene

Ulicna scena-A street scene

Amazonski lenjivac-The Amzon sloth

Amazonski lenjivac-The Amzon sloth

Are-Macaws in Tambopata National Reserve of Peruvian Amazon

Are-Macaws in Tambopata National Reserve of Peruvian Amazon

Arheolosko nalazi+íte Sipan-Sipan archaeological site

Arheolosko nalazi+íte Sipan-Sipan archaeological site

Camci od trske na jezeru Titikaka-Boats made of reeds on Titikaka lake

Camci od trske na jezeru Titikaka-Boats made of reeds on Titikaka lake

Crvene are u peruanskoj Amazoniji-Red macaws in the Peruvian Amazon

Crvene are u peruanskoj Amazoniji-Red macaws in the Peruvian Amazon

Geolinije Naska civilizacije-Geoglyphs of Nazca Civilization

Geolinije Naska civilizacije-Geoglyphs of Nazca Civilization

Indijanke na plutajucem ostrvu jezera Titikaka-Indian women on the floating island of the Lake Titicaca

Indijanke na plutajucem ostrvu jezera Titikaka-Indian women on the floating island of the Lake Titicaca

Indioski ritual na jezeru Titikaka-An Indian ritual by the Lake Titicaca

Indioski ritual na jezeru Titikaka-An Indian ritual by the Lake Titicaca

Viva el Peru

Viva el Peru

Usamljana Indijanka-A lonely Indian woman on Titikaka Lake

Usamljana Indijanka-A lonely Indian woman on Titikaka Lake

Svi putevi vode u Kusko, drevnu prestonicu Inka. Mene su putevi novih
Peruanaca doveli do njih samih, kada su me, kao počasnog konzula, imenovali
da predstavljam njihovu zemlju u svojoj zemlji.
Odlazak u Kusko je kao odlazak u središte sveta, jednu od najzagonetnijih
civilizacija koje su ikada postojale, u “pupak sveta” na kečua jeziku, za
kojim je, prema predanju, tragao prvi Inka, Manko Kapak. Sve ostalo je čudna
mešavina istorijskih činjenica, tajanstvenih arheoloških otkrića i beskrajne
fikcije, koji prave zaplet oko nastanka, veličanstvenog uspona i potpunog
kraja naroda Inka. Inke su, ipak, samo jedan od naroda koji su živeli na
ovim prostorima pre i posle njih i koji su stvarali svoje civilizacije, a od
kojih se neke tek u novije vreme otkrivaju. Skoro svako brdo duž pacifičke
obale krije ispod sebe po neku piramidu nekog naroda koji je prethodio
Inkama. Lutajući između tih brda, zamišljao sam nestvarnu scenu: da sva ona
budu otkopana i hramovi obnovljeni, bio bi to prizor na kome bi i stari Rim
zavideo.
Dudoko u carstvu Inka, Kusko ili Ciudad Puma kako ga nazivaju zato što ima
obris te svete životinje, ponovo doživljava svoj duhovni vrhunac
zahvaljujući velikom interesovanju spoljnog sveta za ovaj grad i njegovu
istoriju. Ni surovi konkvistadori nisu uspeli toliko da razruše svete
hramove oko Kuska, ni da odnesu tolike tone blaga koliko je ostalo njihovog
duhovnog nasleđa da lebdi oko stena, tako misteriozno pravilno uklopljenih u
savršenu arhitekturu hramova.
Pravi duhovni centar je ipak Maču Pikču, pred čijim obrisima svaka priča
gubi smisao i jer sve što znamo o njemu svedoči da je to tek mali deo onoga
što ćemo možda saznati jednog dana. To su stari narodi sa ovih prostora
uveliko znali i možda razumeli univerzalnost tog znanja. Dok promiču
usamljene lame, te divne životinje – stanovnici Anda, i ponekad zastanu i
dopuste mi da ih zagrlim, razmišljam o nekoj drugoj istoriji i budućnosti
sveta koju su stvarali narodi Inka, a potom nestali. Ostavili su nam
nedoumice koje nećemo i ne možemo razrešiti, pre nego što, možda, i sami
nestanemo.
Jezero Titikaka i njegova ploveća ostrva, amazonski deo Perua sa teško
prohodnim džunglama, neotkrivene civilizacije i skrivene piramide, španska
kolonijalna arhitektura, glavni grad Lima sa najviše oblačnih dana, na
liticama koje se nadvijaju iznad Pacifika –  sve je to Peru i još mnogo
više.
Sa neskrivenim entuzijazmom priča nam o svojoj zemlji peruanski ambasador
Elard Eskala tokom posete srpskom prestolonasledniku u Belom dvoru u
Beogradu. I otkriva neke tajne indioske medicine, koja leči najteže bolesti;
otkriva da Peru ima fakultete za kulinarstvo, da je zemlja koja mnogo pruža,
a o kojoj, možda, veoma malo znamo.
Deo misije približavanja ove zemlje sada je na meni, i ja se nadam da ću u
tome uspeti.

Novembar 1998.
__________________________________________________________

All the roads lead to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca people. The
ways of contemporary Peruvians led me to themselves, when they appointed me
an Honorary Consul, to represent their country in my own.
Visiting Cusco is like going to the centre of the Earth; like visiting one
of the most mysterious civilisations of all times; it is like going to the
‘navel of the world’ in Kechua language, a place sought by Manco Cápac, the
first Inca, according to legend. Everything else is a strange mixture of
historical facts, mysterious archaelogical discoveries and endless fiction,
weaving a story around the origins, phenomenal rise and final demise of the
Inca people. Yet, the Incas were only one of the peoples who lived here
before and after others, who also developed their civilisations, some of
which are being discovered only recently. Almost every hill along the
Pacific shore conceals a pyramid of one of the predecessors to Incas.
Wandering around amongst these hills I imagined a surreal scene: all the
pyramids and temples are unearthed and restored; that would be a sight that
would put even ancient Rome to shame.
Deep in the Inca Empire, Cusco or Ciudad Puma, as it is also called because
it is shaped like this sacred animal, is yet again going through a spiritual
revival thanks to the renewed interest of the outside world in this city and
its history. Despite destroying the sacred temples around Cusco and
rampaging tonnes of treasure, the cruel conquistadors did not manage to
anihilate the spiritual heritage which appears to be hovering around the
rocks which mysteriously and symmetrically fit into the perfect architecture
of the temples.
Yet, the true spiritual center is Machu Picchu, the sight of which defies
any comprehension, because all we know about it only points to the much
larger unknown, which we may find out about one day. Perhaps the ancient
peoples from this area had all this knowledge and understood the universal
value of it. While lonely llamas pass by, these beautiful animals that
inhabit the Andes, sometimes stopping in their tracks and letting me hug
them, I keep thinking about a different history and a different future
created by the Incas that could have happened, had they not disappeared.
They left us with dilemmas which we cannot and probably will not solve,
before we disappear ourselves.
Lake Titicaca and its floating islands, the impenetrable Amazonian jungles
of Peru, undiscovered civilisations and hidden pyramids, the Spanish
colonial architecture, the capital Lima on the cliffs hanging over the
Pacific, boasting the highest number of cloudy days – all this is Peru, and
much more.
Elard Escala, the Peruvian Ambassador, talks with obvious enthusiasm about
his country, during his visit to the Serbian Crown Prince at Beli Dvor
(White Court). He reveals some secrets of the Indios traditional medicine
which are said to cure the gravest illnesses; he reveals to us that Peru has
culinary universities, that Peru is a country offering a lot, about which we
probably know very little.
Getting closer to knowing Peru is partly my mission now, and I hope I will
succeed in it.

November 1998

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