PANAMA – PANAMA – PANAMÁ

Novi deo Panama Sitija-Cinta Costera-the new part of Panama City

Novi deo Panama Sitija-Cinta Costera-the new part of Panama City

Predsednicka palata-Palacio de las Garzas

Predsednicka palata-Palacio de las Garzas

Prolazak kroz kanal-Passing through the Canal

Prolazak kroz kanal-Passing through the Canal

Staro spansko utvrdjenje-Old Spanish fortress on Isla Grande

Staro spansko utvrdjenje-Old Spanish fortress on Isla Grande

Trg Bolivar u starom gradu-Bolivar Square in old city Casco Viejo

Trg Bolivar u starom gradu-Bolivar Square in old city Casco Viejo

Ulica luckog gradica Kolon - A street in the port town of Colon

Ulica luckog gradica Kolon – A street in the port town of Colon

Ulica luckog gradica Kolon-A street in the port town of Colon

Ulica luckog gradica Kolon-A street in the port town of Colon

Ulicni poslovi-The street bussines

Ulicni poslovi-The street bussines

Autobus koji je vozio kroz Centralnu Ameriku-Tica Bus which used to drive through Central America

Autobus koji je vozio kroz Centralnu Ameriku-Tica Bus which used to drive through Central America

Crkva u kvartu Bela Vista-Iglesia del Carmen

Crkva u kvartu Bela Vista-Iglesia del Carmen

Glavna gradska katedrala-Metropolitan Cathedral

Glavna gradska katedrala-Metropolitan Cathedral

Isla Grande

Isla Grande

Kuna indijanka-The Kuna Indian woman

Kuna indijanka-The Kuna Indian woman

Lenjivac na doku-The sloth on the dock

Lenjivac na doku-The sloth on the dock

Narodno pozoriste i crkva San Francisko-National Theatre and the San Francisco Church

Narodno pozoriste i crkva San Francisko-National Theatre and the San Francisco Church

Narodno pozoriste i crkva San Francisko-The National Theatre and the San Francisco Church

Narodno pozoriste i crkva San Francisko-The National Theatre and the San Francisco Church

Narodno pozoriste i zvonik crkve San Francisko-National Theatre and the belltower of the San Francisco Church

Narodno pozoriste i zvonik crkve San Francisko-National Theatre and the belltower of the San Francisco Church

Narodno pozoriste Paname-Panama's National Theatre

Narodno pozoriste Paname-Panama’s National Theatre

Novi deo Panama Sitija - Cinta Costera-the new part of Panama City

Novi deo Panama Sitija – Cinta Costera-the new part of Panama City

Na dugom putovanju kroz Centralnu Ameriku, konačno odredište velikog limenog
autobusa kompanije Tica Bus bio je grad Panama, Panama City, ili još
pravilnije Ciudad de Panamá, glavni grad te zemlje. Bio je to i naporan put
kroz sve zemlje ovog regiona –  od Gvatemale do Paname. Ujedno i put
zadovoljstva obilaskom ovih malih zemalja na tako neobičan način.
Iako sam mnogo putovao po tropskim predelima, u jednom trenutku sam pomislio
da je oval grad najtoplije mesto na svetu. Posebno je bilo vrelo među
zidinama stare Paname, Panamá Vieja, koja je davno stradala, i to nekoliko
puta, u požarima ili pljačkaškim napadima čuvenog karipskog gusara Henrija
Morgana. Ostaci utvrđenja, kao u katedrale u Starom gradu, nemo svedoče o
nekadašnjoj slavi, a ona se danas vraća ovom gradu u vidu oblakodera,
kockarnica i svih drugih obličja savremenog sveta. Stari kolonijani deo
grada, San Felipe, a posebno Francuski trg, katedrala i crkve San Hose i
Santo Domingo, ili pozorište koje pomalo podseća na milansku Skalu, ipak su
mnogo lepši i značajniji.
Ova zemlja je svakako najpoznatija po čuvenom Panamskom kanalu, izgrađenom
pre skoro sto godina, uz ogroman broj žrtava. Težilo se, ipak, da se
opravdaju žrtve koje svakako nisu bili Francuzi koji su otpočeli gradnju,
niti Amerikanci koji su je završili, već lokalna radna snaga. Veoma je
impresivan utisak koji ostavlja prolazak gigantskih brodova kroz tesne
kanale i ustave, dok ih sa bokova vuku male lokomotive. Sam pojam da se kroz
taj tesnac spajaju dve najveće vode na svetu, Atlantik i Pacifik, čini ovo
mesto čudesnim, ili bar drugačijim od ostalih. Spajanje velikih vodenih
celina čini bilo koje mesto energetski jakim.
Na drugom, atlantskom kraju ovog prolaza, nalazi se poznati arhipelag San
Blas, sa više stotina ostrvaca, od kojih je pedesetak naseljeno Kuna
indijancima. Oni su ovde od davnina živeli na svoj tradicionalan način i
znatno drugačije od španskih doseljenika. Daleko od civilizacije, na svojim
rajskim ostrvima, oni stotinama godina žive isti život, prave svoje nadaleko
čuvene mola tkanine i zaista izgledaju srećno. Samo poglavica komunicira sa
strancima, koji ih posećuju, i pregovara o prodaji tih tkanina jarkih boja i
specifičnih dezena, kao i ostalih rukotvorina. Snimanje na nekom obližnjem
pustom ostrvu serijala Surviver njih verovatno mnogo ne dotiče.
Oni veoma dobro znaju kako da prežive u svom ambijentu.

Mart 1992.
________________________________________________________

On my long journey through Central America, the final destination of a large
tin bus belonging to the Tica Bus company, was Panama City, or more
precisely, Ciudad de Panamá, the capital city of this country. It was an
exhausting trip through all the countries of this region, from Guatemala to
Panama. At the same time, it was a satisfying trip because I managed to
visit these small countries in such an unusual way.
Even though I have travelled through many places with tropical climates, I
thought in an instant that this place was possibly the hottest in the world.
It was especially hot between the walls of the old city, Panamá Vieja, which
has been devastated many times, in fires and robberies by the famous
Caribbean pirate, Henry Morgan. The remains of the fort, as well as the
cathedrals in the Old city, stand silently as witnesses of the former glory;
nowadays, this glory is reclaimed in the shape of skyscrapers, casinos and
all other shapes of modern life. Yet more beautiful and more significant
are: the old colonial part of the city – San Felipe, especially the French
Square, the cathedral and the churches of San José and Santo Domingo, or the
theatre which reminds somewhat of La Scala in Milan.
This country is certainly most known for the Panama Canal, built almost a
hundred years ago, whose construction brought on a huge number of victims.
There was a drive to justify this, but the victims were certainly not the
French who started the construction nor the Americans who finished it, but
the local workforce. The passing of gigantic ships through narrow canals and
locks, while small locomotives pull them from the sides, looks really
impressive. The very fact that the Earth’s two biggest waters, the Atlantic
and the Pacific, come together here, makes this place magical, or at least
different. The fusion of two huge water entities would make any place
powerful energy-wise.
At the other, Atlantic end of the Canal is the famous San Blas archipelago
with several hundred small islands out of which around 50 are inhabited by
the Kuna Indians. They have lived here since the olden days, according to
their own traditions and quite differently from the Spanish settlers. Far
away from civilisation, on their paradise islands, they have been living in
the same way for hundreds of years, producing their world famous mola
textiles but they look genuinely happy. Only the chieftain communicates with
visiting foreigners and negotiates the sale of these brightly coloured
fabrics with peculiar designs, as well as other handicraft. The shooting of
the Survivor series at one of the nearby deserted islands probably did not
touch them in the least.
They know very well how to survive in their own environment.

March 1992

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