PAKISTAN – PAKISTAN – پاكِستان‎

Skolski prevoz-A school vehicle

Skolski prevoz-A school vehicle

Ulicni prizor-A scene from the street

Ulicni prizor-A scene from the street

Umetnost u pokretu - The moving art

Umetnost u pokretu – The moving art

Umetnost u pokretu- The moving art

Umetnost u pokretu- The moving art

Umetnost u pokretu-The moving art

Umetnost u pokretu-The moving art

Apoteka-A medicine corner shop

Apoteka-A medicine corner shop

Autobus kao umetnicko delo i moj cuvar-A bus as a piece of art and my body guard

Autobus kao umetnicko delo i moj cuvar-A bus as a piece of art and my body guard

Butik naoruzanja i njegov gazda-An arms boutique and its owner

Butik naoruzanja i njegov gazda-An arms boutique and its owner

Islamski koledz u Pesavaru-The Islamic college in Peshawar

Islamski koledz u Pesavaru-The Islamic college in Peshawar

Istocnjacka brza hrana - Oriental fast food

Istocnjacka brza hrana – Oriental fast food

Istocnjacka brza hrana-Oriental fast food

Istocnjacka brza hrana-Oriental fast food

Muzej u Karaciju-Mohatta Palace Museum in Karachi

Muzej u Karaciju-Mohatta Palace Museum in Karachi

Muzej u Pesavaru-The Peshawar Museum

Muzej u Pesavaru-The Peshawar Museum

Na veceri sa Dr. Tahirom-At the dinner with Dr. Tahir

Na veceri sa Dr. Tahirom-At the dinner with Dr. Tahir

Nacionalni mauzolej osnivacu nacije-Mazar-e-Quaid-nation's father mausoleum

Nacionalni mauzolej osnivacu nacije-Mazar-e-Quaid-nation’s father mausoleum

Nasmejani prodavac-The smiling vendor

Nasmejani prodavac-The smiling vendor

Oslikana motorna riksa-A painted rickshaw

Oslikana motorna riksa-A painted rickshaw

Plaza u Karaciju-A beach in Karachi

Plaza u Karaciju-A beach in Karachi

Pogled iz hotela-A view from the Pearl Continental Hotel (2)

Pogled iz hotela-A view from the Pearl Continental Hotel (2)

Pogled na Kajberski prolaz prema Avganistanu-A view of Khyber Pass towards Afghanistan

Pogled na Kajberski prolaz prema Avganistanu-A view of Khyber Pass towards Afghanistan

Prodavac banana-A banana vendor

Prodavac banana-A banana vendor

Prodavac ptica-Selling birds

Prodavac ptica-Selling birds

Prodavac tipicnih kapa-A vendor of the typical caps

Prodavac tipicnih kapa-A vendor of the typical caps

Prodavci tepiha-The carpet vendors

Prodavci tepiha-The carpet vendors

Opasno je ovih dana u Pešavaru, gradu na severu Pakistana, na samoj granici sa Avganistanom. Opasno je bilo i onih dana kad sam posetio ovaj grad i boravio u hotelu Pearl Continental, u kome je nedavno podmetnuta bomba, pored ostalih, odnela i život jednog srpskog predstavnika mirovnih snaga. Opasnost je ovde trajna pojava.
Doktor Tahir je veoma fin čovek, koga sam upoznao na kongresu plastičnih hirurga u manje zanimljivom velegradu Karačiju i koji me je tom prilikom pozvao da ga posetim u Pešavaru. Zajedno smo doputovali, večerali toplu jagnjetinu na zemljanom podu njegove omiljene mehane, a već sutradan mi je sredio dozvolu za posetu čuvenom Kajberskom prolazu.
To je veoma osetljiva pogranična zona, koju talibani lako prolaze pod zaštitom nepristupačnih planina i svoje braće istomišljenika u tampon zoni između dve zemlje, u kojoj vladaju zakoni lokalnih plemena i klanova. Bezbednost vam ovde niko ne garantuje, ako se izuzme naoružani čuvar na zadnjem sedištu vozila koji, i pored kalašnjikova skoro njegove visine, više deluje smešno nego zastrašujuće. Kroz brojne klance i preko prevoja stižemo do Kajberskog prolaza, sa čije se najviše tačke vidi i kontroliše ogromna teritorija. Sve vojske, osvajači, istaživači, pustolovi, na putu za Indiju, morali su proći kroz ovaj prolaz, od Aleksandra Velikog, Marka Pola, Džingis kana, do Engleza. Svi su, naravno, želeli kontrolu nad njim, o čemu svedoče table na stenama sa imenima vojskovođa i regimenti. Danas, iz posebno uređene sobe za osmatranje, vide se brojni prevoji sa dugim konvojima na putu koji vodi u Kabul. U tom trenutku sam veoma želeo da se nađem na tom putu.
Oslikani kamioni i autobusi ponos su vlasnika tih vozila, koji teže da ukrase svaki njihov delić i pri tom nadograde nove oslikane strukture. A tek ako poželite da se fotografišete ispred tog remek-dela, njihovoj sreći nema kraja.
Ušao sam u prodavnicu svih vrsta naoružanja. Pravo je čudo kako male manufakture, čiji je to porodični posao već decenijama, za kratko vreme i primitivnom tehnologijom, mogu da napravie kopiju bilo koje nove puške koja se pojavi u svetu. Ispred radnje je počelo neko komešanje, ja sam morao da je odmah napustim i, u pratnji čuvara, brzo krenem ka Pešavaru. Nisam, doduše, ni imao nameru da tamo nešto kupujem, ali samo prisustvo stranca uzburkalo je lokalne duhove.
Žao mi je što se mnoge loše stvari dešavaju dobrom i ponosnom narodu Paštuna. Oni odavde prkose svetskoj globalnoj politici, dok ih ona ubija njihovim sopstvenim bombama. Nedavno je tako, u atentatu bombaša-samoubice, nastradala i Benazir Buto, bivša premijerka Pakistana, jedna od najlepših žena svetske politike i, možda, nada za tu zemlju.
Nada je ipak ostala, jer Pakistan je dovoljno snažan da savlada terorizam i krene svetlijom stazom u budućnost.

Novembar 2006.
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These days it is dangerous in Peshawar, a city in the North, at the very border with Afghanistan. It was dangerous when I visited as well; I stayed at the Pearl Continental Hotel, where a planted bomb killed, amongst others, one Serbian Peace corps representative. Danger is a permanent feature here.
Doctor Tahir is a very fine man whom I met at the Plastic Surgery Congress in a less interesting metropolis – Karachi, who then invited me to visit him in Peshawar. We travelled together, had dinner of warm lamb on the clay floor of his favourite hangout, and as soon as the following day, he managed to secure me a permit to visit the famous Khyber Pass.
This is a very sensitive border area into which the Taliban cross with ease under cover of impassable mountains and their supportive brethren in the no-man’s land between the two countries, ruled by the local clans and tribes. No one guarantees you safety here, if you exclude the armed guard at the back of the car, who despite the Kalashnikov almost his size, looks more funny than scary. Through numerous gorges and over the bend we reach the Khyber Pass; a huge territory that is visible and easy to control from its highest point. All the armies, conquerors, explorers and adventurers had to pass through here on their route to India, from Alexander the Great, Marco Polo, Ghengis Khan through to the English. Everyone, of course, wanted to control the Pass, as witnessed by the boards carved in the rocks with the names of army leaders and regiments. Today, from a special observatory, you can see many mountain bends with long convoys on route to Kabul. At that moment I very much wanted to be on that road.
Proud owners of painted trucks and buses are striving to cover every little bit of their vehicle and even add to the existing ‘murals’. And furthermore, if you wish to take a photo in front of their masterpiece, their happiness is endless.
I entered a shop selling all kinds of arms. Small family businesses manufacturing arms for decades can, as if by a miracle, reproduce any new machinegun that appears in the world market, despite a primitive technology and a lack of time. Suddenly, some sort of commotion started in front of the shop and I had to leave for Peshawar immediately, accompanied by my guard. I had not planned to buy anything anyway, but my mere presence as a foreigner had upset the local spirits.
I feel sorry that many bad things are happening to the kind and proud Pashtun people. From this place they defy the global politics which is killing them with their own bombs. Recently, the former Prime Minister of Pakistan, Benazir Bhutto, perished in a suicide bomb attack. She was one of the most beautiful women politicians in the world and perhaps, this country’s hope.
Yet, the hope has remained, as Pakistan is strong enough to overcome terrorism and take a brighter path to the future.

November 2006

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