OBALA SLONOVAČE – CÔTE D’IVOIRE

Africki bubnjari-African drummers

Africki bubnjari-African drummers

Aqua park

Aqua park

Hotel u saharskom stilu-Desert-style hotel

Hotel u saharskom stilu-Desert-style hotel

Katedrala Svetog Pavla i spomenik slonu-St. Paul's Cathedral and monument of an elephant

Katedrala Svetog Pavla i spomenik slonu-St. Paul’s Cathedral and monument of an elephant

Most preko lagune-A bridge over lagoon

Most preko lagune-A bridge over lagoon

Najveca katedrala u Africi-Yamoussoukro Cathedral-the biggest in Africa

Najveca katedrala u Africi-Yamoussoukro Cathedral-the biggest in Africa

Pogled na lagunu u Abidzanu-A view of lagoon in Abidjan

Pogled na lagunu u Abidzanu-A view of lagoon in Abidjan

Pogled preko lagune

Pogled preko lagune

Svadba u gradskom parku-A wedding in the city park

Svadba u gradskom parku-A wedding in the city park

Svi su zuti-All yellow taxis

Svi su zuti-All yellow taxis

U gradskom parku-In the city park

U gradskom parku-In the city park

Ulaz u Abidzan-Entrance to Abidjan

Ulaz u Abidzan-Entrance to Abidjan

Velika dzamija u Abidzanu-Grand Mosque in Abidjan

Velika dzamija u Abidzanu-Grand Mosque in Abidjan

Stanovnici Obale Slonovače nazivaju se Ivorijanci i veći su frankofoni od
Francuza, a sâm predsednik na međunarodnom nivou insistira da se engleski
prevod imena zemlje ne koristi, već isključivo zvaničan francuski naziv.
Nekada su ova zemlja i susedna Gana bile Obala slonovače i Zlatna obala,
Ivory Coast and Gold Coast, ali slonova ovde odavno nema, a zlato u Gani se
uglavnom viđa na starom nakitu plemena Ašanti i na kruni njihovog kralja.
Iako je uvek važila za glavno francusko uporište u ovom delu sveta, a
Francuzi joj izgradili celokupnu infrastrulturu, pa su čak toliko vezani za
njih da nemaju ni jedno izdanje bilo koje knjige na engleskom jeziku, ipak,
u poslednje vreme, ustaju i protiv samih Francuza. Tada stupaju na scenu
legionari, koji moraju da ih smiruju iz svoje ogromne baze smeštene nadomak
najvećeg grada, Abidžana.
Ivorijanci se mnogo ne razlikuju od naroda okolnih frankofonski zemalja;
podjednako, ako ne i više, napadno nude sve svoje usluge i svom snagom se
trude da vam naplate nešto što ne tražite ili prodaju nešto što vam uopšte
ne treba. Takva neprimerena trgovina zastupljena je sve do najviših nivoa.
Tako je čak otrovni otpad prihvaćen sa nekog holandskog broda, koji je
tražio mogućnost kako da ga se oslobodi, i nemarno izliven posred velike
lagune u centru grada, gde je mnogo stanovnika stradalo od trovanja.
Pričaju mi o svemu tome moji prijatelji Šenaj i Milan, dok mi, iz velike
tojote Ujedinjenih nacija, pokazuju zanimljiva mesta u gradu. Žao im je što
ne mogu više da mi pokažu, jer, iako ima sve atribute modernog grada,
Abidžan je ipak prilično nezanimljivo mesto sa kulturnog stanovišta. Moderna
katedrala i malo manje moderna džamija su veće znamenitosti, a široka i
modra laguna u centru grada pretvorena je u ogromnu baru neprijatnog mirisa.
Abidžan se ipak gradi tek od šezdesetih godina prošlog veka, a najbliža
peščana plaža udaljena je stotinak kilometara od grada. Nekada je to bio
Pariz Afrike, kako su ga zvali, kao što je Bejrut bio Pariz Bliskog istoka,
a danas Dakar u Senegalu ima mnogo veće pravo na takvo poređenje. Osim,
možda, ako se ne uzme u obzir veoma razvijen noćni život.
Kuriozitet Obale Slonovače je njen novi glavni grad Jamasukro, rodno mesto
predsednika Boanjija, koji je bio najzaslužniji čovek za uspon ove nacije
pre više godina i koji je naložio da se tamo izgradi jedna od najvećih
bazilika na svetu.  Ona može da primi milion ljudi i samo dva puta ih je
toliko došlo: kad je predsednik umro i prilikom papine posete. Dužina
bazilike, koja ima ugrađene liftove u svojim ogromnim stubovima, samo
nekoliko metara je manja od one u Vatikanu.
Poredak se, ipak, mora poštovati.

Mart 2010.
_________________________________________________________

The inhabitants of the Ivory Coast are called Ivorians and they are more
French than the French. The country’s president himself insisted that the
English translation of the country’s name was not used internationally, but
only the French name. In the past this country and neighbouring Ghana used
to be called Ivory Coast and Gold Coast, however elephants have disappeared
from here long ago, while gold in Ghana is to be seen mostly on the old
jewellery pieces of the Ashanti tribe, or on their King’s crown.

Despite being the central mainstay of French influence in this part of the
world, despite France having built their entire infrastructure and despite
feeling so close to the French that no books were ever published in English
here, the Ivorians have recently started rebelling against the French
themselves. Then the French Foreign Legion steps in to quell the unrest,
operating from their base near the largest city, Abidjan.
Ivorians do not differ much from the peoples of the neighbouring Francophone
countries; equally, if not more forcefully, they offer their services and
they do their absolute best to charge you for something you did not ask for
or to sell you something that you do not need at all. This brazen trade is
occuring all the way through to the highest levels. That is how it happened
that poisonous waste was accepted from a Dutch ship looking for a way to get
rid of it, and was carelessly spilt right in the middle of a large lagoon in
the city centre, resulting in many people getting sick and dying.
My friends Senay and Milan tell me about this while showing me places of
interest in the city from a big UN Toyota. At the same time they are sorry
that they cannot show me more, because Abidjan, despite having all the
attributes of a modern city, is a rather uninterestinng place from the
cultural point of view. A modern cathedral and a slightly less modern mosque
are the main attractions, while the wide blue lagoon in the city centre has
been turned into a huge puddle with an unpleasant smell. Yet Abidjan’s
development started only in the 1960s and the nearest beach is some 100
kilometres away. Once upon a time it was called ‘the Paris of Africa’ just
like Beirut was ‘the Paris of the Middle East’; yet today Senegal’s Dakar is
the more appropriate place to be called that. Unless, perhaps you count
night life, which is very busy here.
The most interesting place, perhaps, is the new capital of Ivory Coast –
Yamassoukro. It is the birthplace of the President Boigny, a man responsible
for this nation’s ascent some years ago. In Yamassoukro he commissioned the
building of one of the largest basilicas in the world. It can take one
million people and only twice it did: when the President died and during the
Papal visit. The length of the basilica, which has built-in lifts in its
huge pillars, is only a few metres smaller than the one in Vatican.
After all, the world order must be obeyed.

March 2010

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