NIKARAGVA – NICARAGUA

Granicni prelaz-Border pass

Granicni prelaz-Border pass

Katedrala u Leonu-The Cathedral of Leon

Katedrala u Leonu-The Cathedral of Leon

Krater vulkana Masaja-The crater of Masaya Volcano

Krater vulkana Masaja-The crater of Masaya Volcano

Secanje na studente-zrtve Somozinog rezima u Leonu-Remembering victims of the Somoza regime in Le+-n

Secanje na studente-zrtve Somozinog rezima u Leonu-Remembering victims of the Somoza regime in Le+-n

Stara katedrala i Palata kulture-The Old Cathedral of Managua-Catedral de Santiago and the National Palace of Culture

Stara katedrala i Palata kulture-The Old Cathedral of Managua-Catedral de Santiago and the National Palace of Culture

Vrata na uglu-A door at the corner

Vrata na uglu-A door at the corner

Vulkansko jezero Nikaragva-Volcanic Lake Nicaragua

Vulkansko jezero Nikaragva-Volcanic Lake Nicaragua

Katedrala u Granadi-Cathedral in Granada

Katedrala u Granadi-Cathedral in Granada

Sandino zivi-Sandino is alive

Sandino zivi-Sandino is alive

Jezero Nikaragva sa dva vulkana na ostrvu Ometepe-Lake Nicaragua with two volcanos on the Ometepe Island

Jezero Nikaragva sa dva vulkana na ostrvu Ometepe-Lake Nicaragua with two volcanos on the Ometepe Island

Katedrala u Granadi - Cathedral in Granada

Katedrala u Granadi – Cathedral in Granada

Želeo sam da postanem počasni konzul Nikaragve kao svejevrsni omaž velikom
srpskom piscu i satiričaru Branislavu Nušiću, u čijoj se drami Gospođa
ministarka pojavljuje taj lik. Podjednako udaljene jedna od druge i tada,
kao i danas, geografski i mentalno, Srbija i Nikaragva nikada nisu
uspostavile značajnije međusobne odnose. Ostaje, međutim, uvek ta neminovna
asocijacija u našem narodu pri pomenu te zemlje.
Popodne u glavnom gradu Managvi, posle duge i iscrpljujuće vožnje autobusom
metalne boje kompanije Tica Bus, ispunjeno je težinom koju nosi period
neposredno posle rata. Građanski rat o kome sam slušao u uzbudljivim
izveštajima dvojice naših novinara avanturista, nedavno je završen, dok je
atmosfera težine koju je nosio, pomešana sa ogromnom vlagom u vazduhu, samo
otežavala moju žurbu kroz grad u želji da ga što više i bolje upoznam.
Srećan sam što sam među prvim retkim putnicima koje je turistička
radoznalost dovela u Nikaragvu. Prati me osećanje da sam učesnik u
centralnoameričkoj avanturi koja još ispunjava vazduh ovog grada, teško
zelenilo i još teže popodnevno nebo. Njegova se modrina, uz svetle kišne
oblake kao kontrast, nadvila nad špansku kolonijalnu katedralu.
Grad je delovao pusto, kao i cela zemlja. Za razliku od težine koju sam
osećao u Salvadoru, odakle sam upavo došao, ovaj grad je imao i težinu
optimizma: skromnog, početnog, sa još prisutnom nevericom da je sve prošlo.
A toliko puta je izgledalo da jeste, toliko puta su gerilski komandanti bili
nadomak pobede, da bi umesto nje nastupio novi masakr. Sandinisti na čelu sa
komandantom Danijelom Ortegom, kasnije predsednikom ove zemlje, protiv
neumoljivog diktatora Anastasija Somoze. Sada je sve mirno, nema više vojnih
hunti koje zatvaraju narod u katedrale, ali – kao da nema ni naroda.
Uveče je sve dobilo životnu notu: bašte restorana sakrivenih u gustom
zelenilu nisu više prazne, optimizam je neskriveno porastao, a ja sam morao
da krenem. Put kroz Nikaragvu je i dalje dug, pored istoimenog jezera koje
je najveće u regionu i u kome, pored ostalih riba, žive i ajkule. Jezero ima
mnoge nazive koje su mu dali stanovnici, kao što su Lago de Granada, Lago
Cocibolca,  Gran Lago Dulce,  Mar Dulce (Slatko more), kao i vulkanska
ostrva Concepción i Maderas. Prirodne lepote ove zemlje su velike, kao i
njena nada u budućnost.
Ako još budu želeli da imaju počasni konzulat u Srbiji, moja radost biće
potpuna.

Mart 1992.
__________________________________________________________

I wanted to become an honorary consul to Nicaragua, as a special tribute to
the great Serbian satirical writer Branislav Nušić, in whose play Gospođa
ministarka (The Cabinet Minister’s Wife) this character appears. Equally
distant today as in the past, both geographically and mentally, Serbia and
Nicaragua never had a significant bilateral relationship. However, in our
country we always remember this play when Nicaragua is mentioned.
After a long and exhausting ride in a tin-like bus of the Tica Bus company,
the afternoon in Managua, the capital, is filled with the heaviness that
follows the recent cessation of war. The civil war,  which I learned about
through exciting reports from our two adventurous journalists, ended
recently; yet the lingering foreboding atmosphere  coupled with high
humidity in the air only slowed down my haste to get to know this city as
well and as soon as possible. I am happy that I am amongst the first, rare
tourists who were led by their curiosity to visit Nicaragua. I feel like I
am a protagonist in a Central American adventure which still pervades the
air in this city, its lush vegetation and a heavy clouded sky. The dark blue
sky, with contrasting light blue rain clouds, is pressing heavily against
the Spanish colonial cathedral. The city appeared deserted, like the entire
country. Yet, unlike the heaviness I experienced in El Salvador from where I
have just arrived, the heavy feeling here was mixed with some optimism. This
feeling of optimism, still in its infancy, shaky and insecure, is
accompanied by a disbelief that the war is over. And so many times it seemed
like it was over, the Guerilla commanders were so close to victory, and yet
a fresh massacre would ensue. The Sandinista, headed by Daniel Ortega, later
the president of the country, fought against the cruel dictator Anastasio
Somoza. Now everything is peaceful, there are no more military juntas to
shut people in the cathedrals, but it looks like there are no people left
either.
In the evening everything comes to life: restaurant gardens hidden in the
lush greenery are not empty anymore, the feeling of optimism rises
noticeably, but I have to leave. A long travel through Nicaragua still
awaits me. I pass by Lake Nicaragua, the largest in the region, a home to
sharks, amongst many other species of fish. This lake has many names given
by the locals Lago de Granada, Lago Cocibolca,  Gran Lago Dulce,  Mar Dulce
(Freshwater sea). It also boasts volcanic islands such as Concepción and
Maderas. The natural beauties of this country are great, and so are the
hopes for its future.
If one day Nicaraguans decide to have an honorary consulate in Serbia, my
joy will be complete.

March 1992

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