NIGERIJA – NIGERIA – NIJERIYA

Ispred hotela Eko u Lagosu-In front of the Eko Hotel in Lagos

Ispred hotela Eko u Lagosu-In front of the Eko Hotel in Lagos

Lepa setnja-A nice walk

Lepa setnja-A nice walk

Ljuti momci na motoru-Angry guys on a motorbike

Ljuti momci na motoru-Angry guys on a motorbike

Na aerodromu-At the airport

Na aerodromu-At the airport

Na granicnom prelazu-At the border pass

Na granicnom prelazu-At the border pass

Na periferiji Lagosa-In the suburb of Lagos

Na periferiji Lagosa-In the suburb of Lagos

Seoska scena u gradu-Village scene in the city

Seoska scena u gradu-Village scene in the city

Srecna lica na reklami-Happy faces at the advertising

Srecna lica na reklami-Happy faces at the advertising

Taksisti u Lagosu-The Lagos taxi drivers

Taksisti u Lagosu-The Lagos taxi drivers

Ulaz u univerzitetski kampus-University campus

Ulaz u univerzitetski kampus-University campus

Uobicajeno prevozno sredstvo-Auto rickshaws, common means of public transportation

Uobicajeno prevozno sredstvo-Auto rickshaws, common means of public transportation

Voli da pozira-He likes to pose

Voli da pozira-He likes to pose

Zene u nacionalnoj odeci-Women in traditional clothes

Zene u nacionalnoj odeci-Women in traditional clothes

Zurno na plazu-Quickly to the beach

Zurno na plazu-Quickly to the beach

Nigerija je jedna od zemalja na lošem glasu. Većina Internet spum-a dolazi
odatle, a i samo posredan susret sa ambasadom, u kojoj vam teško i nerado
daju vizu, već je dovoljan razlog za loše predosećanje. Možda bi vas tamo
mogao povući istraživački duh ili neki dobar posao, nešto što bi vam pomoglo
da savladate otpor koji se stiče od prvog kontakta sa tom zemljom.
Stanovnici afričkih zemalja koje su u bliskoj prošlosti preživele ratove i
sukobe, skloni su većoj agresivnosti u ponašanju, međusobno i prema
strancima, a posebno ako u tim zemljama vladaju veliko siromaštvo i
socijalne razlike.
Nigerija ima naftu, ali kapital koji ona donosi samo je sve više raslojava
kao duštvo. Lagos je najveći grad i bivša prestonica ove najmnogoljudnije
afričke zemlje, dok se glavni grad i administrativni centar nalazi na severu
zemlje i naziva se Abudža. Možda je tamo prijatnije, ali ja nemam vremena da
to proveravam. Nemam zaista ni želju kad stalno slušam kako strance
svakodnevno otimaju i da zbog toga žive u strahu, u ograđenim i dobro
čuvanim naseljima. Odlazim odavde automobilom što pre u susedni Benin. Dok
uredno prolazim pored mnoštva službenika ispod nadstrešnice u blatu koja
predstavlja granični prelaz, uz mene “trči, tapka, skakuće” neki nepoznat
čovek koji se tu stvorio niotkuda, i svakom službeniku dodaje zamotuljak
para u moje ime: jedan policajcu, drugi cariniku, treći sanitarnom radniku
koji proverava žuti karton sa podacima o vakcinacijama. Kad se uverio da
posedujem svu potrebnu dokumentaciju, jedan od službenika se najednom malo
zamislio i rekao: “A meningitis?” “Pa za to ne treba vakcina”, kažem mu
samouvereno, znajući već u čemu je problem. Nova šačica para mog pratioca i
to rešava. Naravno da mi je tu uslugu po prelasku granice petostruko
naplatio, jer kako bih je inače prešao bez njega. Na ovakvim mestima uvek se
traži novac za nešto, pa i pored toga pogranični službenici su uvek ljuti i
mrgodni.
Kao da izlaze iz vekovnog ropstva, čiji pokidani lanci sada traže svoju
naplatu, a belom čoveku stvaraju osećanje večitih dužnika.

Jun 2008.
____________________________________________________________

Nigeria is one of those countries with a bad reputation. Most of the
internet spam comes from there and even a brief encounter with the Embassy
staff who give you the visa hardly and unwillingly, is enough to create a
negative feeling from the very start. Maybe you would be drawn by your
exploratory spirit or the prospect of a good job, something to help you
overcome the aversion you feel from the first contact. The population of
those African countries that survived wars and conflicts in recent times
tend to be more aggressive in their behaviour, towards each other and
towards foreigners, especially if the country is extremely poor and the
social divide is sharp.
Nigeria has oil, but the capital it brings only makes the social gap bigger.
Lagos is the largest city and ex-capital of this most populous African
country, while Abuja in the North is the capital and administrative centre.
Maybe it is more pleasant over there, but I don’t have the time to check it
out. I really do not have a desire to go when I hear every day about
abductions of foreigners who live in fear in their enclosed and well-guarded
quarters. I leave here in a hurry for neighbouring Benin.
I duly pass a row of officials standing in the mud under the eaves which is
the border crossing, and all of a sudden, coming from nowhere a strange man
starts jumping and running around me, passing a small packet of money, on my
behalf, to each official: one to the policeman, second one to the customs
officer and the third one to the sanitary worker checking the yellow card
with vaccinations. When he was satisfied that I had all the necessary
documents, one of the officers stopped to think and then said: ‘And
meningitis?’ However, I responded with confidence: ‘But you do not need a
vaccine for that!’ knowing full well what the issue was. Another handful of
notes from my follower resolves that problem too. Of course, once I crossed
the border, he charged me five times as much for this ‘favour’, because how
would I cross otherwise? In places like this money is always required, and
yet the border crossing officials are always angry and morose.
It is like they are coming out of many centuries long chain of slavery whose
broken shackles are now seeking their dues and white men are made to feel
like constantly owing something.

June 2008

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