NEMAČKA – GERMANY – DEUTSCHLAND

Berlinska katedrala (Berliner Dom) i TV toranj-Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower

Berlinska katedrala (Berliner Dom) i TV toranj-Berlin Cathedral and TV Tower

Bivsi granicni prelaz-Former border crossing Checkpoint Charlie

Bivsi granicni prelaz-Former border crossing Checkpoint Charlie

Brandenburska kapija za vreme festivala svetlosti-Brandenburg Gate during the Festival of Lights

Brandenburska kapija za vreme festivala svetlosti-Brandenburg Gate during the Festival of Lights

Brandenburska kapija-Brandenburg Gate

Brandenburska kapija-Brandenburg Gate

Karusel-Carousel

Karusel-Carousel

Katedrala i Gradska kuca u Vircburgu-Cathedral and City Hall in W++rzburg

Katedrala i Gradska kuca u Vircburgu-Cathedral and City Hall in W++rzburg

Memorijalni centar u Berlinu posve-çen zrtvama fasizma-Holocaust Memorial in Berlin

Memorijalni centar u Berlinu posve-çen zrtvama fasizma-Holocaust Memorial in Berlin

Nemacki parlament-German Reichstag (Parliament)

Nemacki parlament-German Reichstag (Parliament)

Palata Sarlotenburg u Berlinu-Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin

Palata Sarlotenburg u Berlinu-Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin

Pozoriste u Visbadenu-Wiesbaden Theatre

Pozoriste u Visbadenu-Wiesbaden Theatre

Rusevine starog zamka iznad Hajdelberga-Heidelberg and its old castle ruins

Rusevine starog zamka iznad Hajdelberga-Heidelberg and its old castle ruins

Simbol pomirenja Istoka i Zapada ispred Brandenburske kapije-East and West peace

Simbol pomirenja Istoka i Zapada ispred Brandenburske kapije-East and West peace

Srednjevekovni bavarski grad Regenzburg-Medieval Bavarian city of Regensburg

Srednjevekovni bavarski grad Regenzburg-Medieval Bavarian city of Regensburg

Stara crkva i nova sahat kula-Kaiser-Wilhelm memorial church and new hexagonal clock-tower in Berlin

Stara crkva i nova sahat kula-Kaiser-Wilhelm memorial church and new hexagonal clock-tower in Berlin

Tvrdjava Marienberg i Stari most na Majni- Marienberg Fortress with Old Main Bridge

Tvrdjava Marienberg i Stari most na Majni- Marienberg Fortress with Old Main Bridge

Vojnik kao simbol pomirenja Istoka i Zapada ispred Brandenburske kapije-Peace keeping soldier between East and West

Vojnik kao simbol pomirenja Istoka i Zapada ispred Brandenburske kapije-Peace keeping soldier between East and West

Zgrada opere i baleta u Berlinu-Staatsoper Unter den Linden

Zgrada opere i baleta u Berlinu-Staatsoper Unter den Linden

Katedrala u Visbadenu- Wiesbaden Cathedral

Katedrala u Visbadenu- Wiesbaden Cathedral

Nemci uglavnom menjaju svet, a drugi ga možda ispravljaju. Bilo je tako i u
prošlosti, pa tokom oba svetska rata, i, na kraju, rušenjem Berlinskog zida.
Svi se slažu da je tim događajem obeležena epoha u kojoj se okreće nova
stranica istorije i u kojoj više nema podeljene Evrope. Dugi ožiljak u srcu
Berlina danas je samo turistička atrakcija –  pojas na kome je nekada stajao
zid. Pojas smrti, kako su ga nazivali. Zid je pao, a poneki njegovi ostaci u
gradu proglašeni su zaštićenim da zid ne bi bio zaboravljen.
Berlin možda nije simbol one prave Nemačke. On je mnogo više kosmopolitski
grad, ali
nikada više onakav kakav je bio pre rata i rušenja. Na trgu Potsdamer danas
su soliteri i nema onog predratnog dekadentnog duha koji pamtimo iz romana i
filmova. Nema ni one špijunske atmosfere i neizvesnosti prelaska iz Istočnog
u Zapadni Berlin, od koje je ostao samo legendarni prelaz Checkpoint
Charlie. Špijune, kontrašpijune i dvostruke agente u vreme hladnog rata
decenijama su, u obližnjem kafeu Adler, razmenjivale tajne službe, ali je
taj “lepi” običaj nestao. Ostala je ujedinjena i osnažena Nemačka i sigurno
za sada mirna, pod kontrolom Evrope i Amerike. Ili, kako bismo rekli
savremenim jezikom, faktor stabilnosti u Evropi.
Nemačka je velika nacija i u svakom smislu vredna divljenja: u nauci, ali
mnogo više u umetnosti, u kojoj je takođe egzaktna kao Betovenove simfonije.
Nacija koja se često diže iz ruševina i vrlo brzo postaje vodeća, dok se mi
ostali pitamo u čemu je tajna, da ne stignemo to ni da primetimo, ni da
reagujemo. Ona, jednostavno, postane velika sila i, na kraju, to svi
prihvatimo, a zatim očekujemo njenu pomoć. Savremeni Nemci su zaista spremni
da pomognu, možda i više nego bilo koji drugi Evropljani, i to narodi sa
istoka i juga Evrope veoma dobro znaju tokom svog naseljavanja Nemačke.
Priznajem da nisam mnogo voleo Nemce dok sam bio mlađi, ali vremenom sve
više uživam u Nemačkoj i prija mi njihova organizovanost koja je, na primer,
mnogo suptilnija od japanske.
Dok sam im u poseti, prija mi način života u parkovima Visbadena i bavarskim
trgovima, a uživam i u nemačkoj hrani i pivu. Frankfurt je jedno od
najposećenijih mesta u mom životu, bar njegov aerodrom. Ipak, želeo bih da
se spustim Rajnom ili Majnom u nekom brodu koji je obuzet dokolicom, dok
razgledam zamkove i pijem neki dobar lokalni šampanjac. Čini mi se da
Nemačka nije samo zemlja radnih ljudi, pre bih rekao – više za uživanje,
iako Nemci verovatno ne misle tako. Oni vole da uživaju na svoj način, ali
na nekom drugom mestu.
Sama Nemačka je, ipak, stvorena za rad.

Jun 2007.
____________________________________________________________

Germans generally tend to change the world, while some others are trying to
correct it. It was like this in the past, then during both world wars, and
eventually at the time when Berlin Wall came down. Everyone agrees that this
event has marked a new era in which there is no divided Europe any more, a
new leaf in the history book has been turned. A long scar in the heart of
Berlin is only a tourist attraction today, a strip where once the Wall
stood. The Strip of Death, as they called it. The wall fell and some of its
remnants have been put in conservation, lest the wall be forgotten.
Perhaps Berlin is not the true symbol of Germany. It is a cosmopolitan city,
but never to the extent that it used to be before the war and destruction.
Today on Potsdamer Platz you find skyscrapers, there is no trace of that
pre-war decadent spirit, remembered from novels and films. There is neither
the ‘secret agent atmosphere’ anymore, nor the uncertainty of passing from
East Berlin into West; only the legendary Checkpoint Charlie remains. During
the cold war, spies, counter-spies and double agents were exchanged by
secret services, for decades, in the nearby Cafe Adler; however this ‘nice’
business has disappeared too. What remained is the empowered and unified
Germany, peaceful and under control of Europe and America. Or as we would
put it in today’s lingo, a factor of stability in Europe.
The Germans are a great nation, and deserve admiration in every sense: in
science, but even more in art in which they display the exactness of
Bethoveen’s symphonies. It is a nation which often rises from the ashes,
only to become a leading  nation very quickly, while the rest of us wonder
what its secret is, so that we do not even get to notice its rise and react
to it. Simply, Germany becomes a superpower and then in the end we accept
it, and then we expect its help. Contemporary Germans are willing to help,
perhaps more so than any other modern Europeans, which is well understood by
immigrants from the East and the South of Europe. I have to admit that I did
not feel affinity to Germans when I was younger, however, as time goes by, I
enjoy Germany more and find their organisational skills, which are more
subtle than those of the Japanese, pleasing.
While visiting this country I enjoy their way of life, parks in Wiesbaden,
Bavarian city squares, as well as their food and beer. I visited Frankfurt
possibly more than any other place in the world, at least its airport. Yet I
would prefer to go down the Rhine and Main rivers on a slow boat where
idleness prevails, while I sightsee the castles and wash it all down with
some good local champagne. I don’t think Germany is a country of working
people only, actually I think it is more suited to pleasure, even though the
Germans probably do not think that way. They like to enjoy in their own way,
but somewhere else.
Yet Germany itself is made for work.

June 2007

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