NAMIBIJA – NAMIBIA

Bavarska na jugu Afrike-Bavaria at the South of Africa

Bavarska na jugu Afrike-Bavaria at the South of Africa

Brizljivo negovana dvorista-Well maintained yards

Brizljivo negovana dvorista-Well maintained yards

Devojcice naroda Himba-The Himba people girls

Devojcice naroda Himba-The Himba people girls

Flamingosi pred spavanje-Flamingos before sleep

Flamingosi pred spavanje-Flamingos before sleep

Hotelski kompleks-Hotel resort Swakopmund

Hotelski kompleks-Hotel resort Swakopmund

Luteranska crkva u glavnom gradu-Luteran church Christuskirche in the capital

Luteranska crkva u glavnom gradu-Luteran church Christuskirche in the capital

Nemacko-kubanska signalizacija-German-Cuban road sign

Nemacko-kubanska signalizacija-German-Cuban road sign

Pogled na Vindhuk - A view of Windhoek

Pogled na Vindhuk – A view of Windhoek

Put prekriven peskom-The road covered with sand

Put prekriven peskom-The road covered with sand

Restoran Splav u Volvis Beju-The Raft restaurant in Walvis Bay

Restoran Splav u Volvis Beju-The Raft restaurant in Walvis Bay

Skulpture od drveta-Wooden sculptures

Skulpture od drveta-Wooden sculptures

Trg u Volvis Beju - A square in Walvis Bay

Trg u Volvis Beju – A square in Walvis Bay

Zena naroda Himba proprema hranu i doji dete-Himba woman making food and breastfeeding her child

Zena naroda Himba proprema hranu i doji dete-Himba woman making food and breastfeeding her child

Zlatnozute pustinjske dine-Golden dunes of the Sossusvlei desert

Zlatnozute pustinjske dine-Golden dunes of the Sossusvlei desert

Bavarska u pesku, tako bi se mogla nazvati ova zemlja, bivša nemačka
kolonija na afričkom tlu. Zbog toga u njoj vlada savršen red, mir i blaga
dosada, a gradići uz obalu kao da su preslikani iz okoline Minhena. Pitao
sam se da li i crnci jodluju u nekom pivskom baru. U svakom slučaju, potomci
Nemaca ovde imaju neke stroge norme ponašanja i retko se smeju. Pre bi se
reklo da su zadržali osvajačku ozbiljnost tridesetih godina XX veka kojom su
tretirali i Evropu, a sigurno u znatnoj meri i Afriku. Čini mi se kao da i
dalje ulivaju strah lokalnom stanovništvu, mada i oni sami sebe smatraju
pravim Afrikancima. Potomci belih doseljenika s kraja XIX veka danas
poseduju ogromne farme, koje čine skoro polovinu zemlje, od kojih mnoge
pružaju prenoćište i turističke usluge: upoznavanje prirode i istorije
nemačkih i južnoafričkih doseljenika koji generacijama ovde žive.
Glavni grad Vindhuk je moderan i uređen, bez onih sadržaja koji bi
iziskivali duže zadržavanje u njemu. Sličan je i Volvis Bej, koji je na
samoj obali, sa palmama u savršenom nizu posađenim u pesku, uz katedrale i
druge tipične primerke arhitekture nemačkog juga. Ledene vode Atlantika,
koje dolaze sa Južnog pola, sudaraju se sa peščanim dinama severne
namibijske pustinje, duž takozvane Obale skeleta. Ta obala dobila je ime po
brodskim olupinama koje su decenijama nasukane u pesku, nagrizene rđom i
zaboravljene od ljudi i vremena.
Čuvena pustinja Kalahari, što u prevodu sa lokalnog jezika znači “velika
žeđ” i koja se proteže kroz nekoliko zemalja afričkog juga, predstavlja
retku prirodnu lepotu. Tu je i pustinja Namib, prema kojoj je zemlja dobila
ime, kao i njen deo Sossusvlei prekriven ogromnom crvenim dinama, koje se
pri zalasku sunca direktno prelivaju u okean. Bogate nijanse tonova, od
oker, preko svetlo i tamnonarandžaste, do spektra crvenih boja kako odmiče
dan, očaravaju svakog putnika koji krstari po pustinjskom pejzažu na jugu
zemlje. Ovo je jedna od najstarijih pustinja na svetu, sa ogromnim dinama,
od kojih su neke visoke po nekoliko stotina metara. Ravnih, skoro
geometrijskih oblika na pojedinim mestima, sa kontrastno plavim nebom,
predstavljaju gotovo nestvarne predele u kojima se stiče utisak da je život
odavno zamro. Lelujavi tragovi u pesku govore nam da život tu negde ipak
postoji.
Jata flaminga u plitkim priobalnim vodama pripremaju se na počinak i bučno
preleću plaže i uredno poređane kućice u malim naseljima sličnim nemačkim
selima, samo što imaju palme. Swakopmund, Lüderitz, planinski masivi
Waterberg, Brandberg svojim imenima ukazuju na postojbinu doseljenika koji
Namibiju odavno smatraju svojom domovinom.
Nekoliko decenija od ukidanja aparthejda na južnoafričkim prostorima
doprinelo je da se i crni i beli stanovnici podjednako dobro osećaju u ovoj
lepoj i bogatoj zemlji.

Mart 2003.
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It could be called ‘Bavaria on sand’, this country that used to be a German
colony in Africa. That is why a perfect order, peace and a mild boredom rule
here, and small coastal towns look like they have been copied directly from
the suburbs of Munich. I even wondered if the local black people knew how to
yodel while drinking beer in bars. In any case, German descendants here have
some very strict rules of behaviour and could rarely be caught smiling. It
could rather be said that they have preserved the serious determination of
the conquerors from the 1930s, with which they treated Europe and Africa too
to a large extent. It appears to me that they inspire awe in the local
people, even though they too consider themselves true Africans. The
descendants of white immigrants from the end of the 19th century possess
today huge farms which occupy almost half of the country’s territory, many
of them offering tourist facilities and overnight stays: the exploration of
nature as well as the history of German and South African immigrants who
have been living here for centuries.
The capital city, Windhoek, is modern and orderly, however without
attractions that would require a longer stay. Walvis Bay is similar, on the
coast itself with palms immaculately positioned in rows in the sand,
accompanied by cathedrals and other typical architecture of the German
South. The icy waters of the Atlantic, coming from the South Pole, clash
with the sand dunes of the Northern Namibian desert, along the so called
Skeleton Coast. The coast got its name from the shipwrecks which lay in the
sand for decades, rusting and forgotten by both people and time.
The famous Kalahari Desert, which in the local language means ‘great
thirst’, sprawling through several countries of the African South, is a rare
natural phenomenon. Next to it is the Namib desert which gave this country
its name, and Sossusvlei is one of its regions, covered in red sandy dunes,
which seem to be flowing directly into the ocean at sunset. Every traveller
cruising the desert landscapes in the South of the country is captivated
with the richness of the colour spectrum, from ochre to light and dark
orange, finishing in deep red as the day draws to a close. This is one of
the oldest deserts in the world, some of its dunes reaching hundreds of
metres in height. Some dunes are so flat and almost geometrically shaped so
that they present a surreal landscape against the contrasting blue sky; it
seems that life has stopped a long time ago. However, undulating prints in
the sand remind us that life is still present.
Flocks of flamingoes fuss about in shallow coastal waters; in preparation
for the night they noisily fly over beaches and rows of neatly arranged
houses which resemble German villages, only with palms. Swakopmund,
Lüderitz, and mountain ranges Waterberg and Brandberg, indicate with their
names the homeland of the settlers who have considered Namibia their own
country for a long time.
A few decades have passed since Apartheid was abolished in Southern Africa,
which has helped both black and white populations to feel equally
comfortable in this beautiful and rich country.

March 2003

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