MJANMAR – MYANMAR

Bagan u zalasku sunca - Bagan at sunset

Bagan u zalasku sunca – Bagan at sunset

Bagan u zalasku sunca-Bagan at sunset

Bagan u zalasku sunca-Bagan at sunset

Burmanska idila-A Burmese idyll

Burmanska idila-A Burmese idyll

Dhammayangyi Temple in Bagan

Dhammayangyi Temple in Bagan

Hotel Kandadji-Kandawgyi Palace Hotel on the Royal Lake in Yangon

Hotel Kandadji-Kandawgyi Palace Hotel on the Royal Lake in Yangon

Hram Ananda u Baganu-The Ananda Temple in Bagan

Hram Ananda u Baganu-The Ananda Temple in Bagan

Hramovi Bagana - Bagan temples

Hramovi Bagana – Bagan temples

Hramovi Bagana -Bagan temples

Hramovi Bagana -Bagan temples

Hramovi Bagana-Bagan temples

Hramovi Bagana-Bagan temples

Monahinje na ulici-Female monks in the street

Monahinje na ulici-Female monks in the street

Na pijaci-At the market

Na pijaci-At the market

Na reci Iravadi-On The Irrawaddy

Na reci Iravadi-On The Irrawaddy

Najlepsi nacin obilaska hramova-The nicest way of seeing the temples

Najlepsi nacin obilaska hramova-The nicest way of seeing the temples

Ogromni Buda koji lezi-The giant Reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi Temple

Ogromni Buda koji lezi-The giant Reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi Temple

Pagoda Svedagon u glavnom gradu-The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

Pagoda Svedagon u glavnom gradu-The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

Pagoda Zlatna stena-The Golden Rock Pagoda

Pagoda Zlatna stena-The Golden Rock Pagoda

Pripreme za odlazak u manastir-Preparations for going to monastery

Pripreme za odlazak u manastir-Preparations for going to monastery

Shwezigon Temple in Bagan

Shwezigon Temple in Bagan

Statue Bude u Svedagonu-Buddha statue in Shwedagon

Statue Bude u Svedagonu-Buddha statue in Shwedagon

Svestenik u Svedagonu-A monk in the Shwedagon

Svestenik u Svedagonu-A monk in the Shwedagon

The Dhammayazika Pagoda

The Dhammayazika Pagoda

Tipicno staro vozilo-A typical old car

Tipicno staro vozilo-A typical old car

Tri Gracije-The Three Graces

Tri Gracije-The Three Graces

U kompleksu Svedagon-Inside Shwedagon complex

U kompleksu Svedagon-Inside Shwedagon complex

Bila je ranije poznatija kao Burma, ova mistična zemlja je jedna od najzanimljivijih na svetu. U nju želim da se uvek iznova vraćam, kao i moji prijatelji Jelena i Čeda Radojković koji tamo odlaze skoro svake godine. Kao da ih opseda magična privlačnost te zemlje, koja se odmah zavoli i nikad ne zaboravlja.

U njoj je vreme stalo kao i u susednom Laosu, a opet na drugačiji, neobjašnjivo lep način, što se oseća u mirisu reka, ukusu vazduha, vibraciji zvona u hramovima, ili u toku vožnje raznobojnim i rasklimatanim vozilima. Čitava zemlja je prava budistička bajka, ali u kojoj ni sâm Buda, ipak, ne bi podneo nepravde kroz koje je ona prolazila u svojoj bliskoj prošlosti. Pošto je, međutim, osnovna vrlina budizma strpljenje imudrost, ovaj narod živi u uverenju da će u tome istrajati, u šta ga uverava jedan od njegovih lidera, dobitnica Nobelove nagrade za mir Aun San Su Ći. Iz beskrajno dugog kućnog pritvora ona je plemenitom pojavom i blagim rečima govorila svom narodu da ostane na mirnom demokratskom putu.

Ogromna zlatna kupola pagode Švedagon u centru glavnog grada Jangona vidljiva je iz aviona i jedna je od najvećih u budističkom svetu. Nalazi se na vrhu brda sa koga je pet Buda trebalo da povedu svet u nirvanu. Sveta tišina, zvuci tihe molitve, mirisni dim insens štapića i toplota mermera prožimaju vam telo u dugoj šetnji oko stupa i hramova, velikih zvona i zlatnih ili belih statua Bude, čije vas oči uvek drugačije gledaju. Kao i sâm budizam, i Burma je puna snažnog emotivnog naboja što izbija iz svih čudesnih tvorevina koje ovde postoje i mirno se ulivaju u vaše biće, želeći da tu zauvek ostanu. Veza sa ovom zemljom je zbog toga neraskidiva i traje celog života.

Pitao sam se da li izraz „paganski“ potiče od imena Pagan, ili Bagan na njihovom jeziku. To je jedan od najvećih i najvažnijih budističkih centara jugoistočne Azije, sa približno četiri hiljade hramova i stupa, na čijim je ispucalim zidovima naslikan život Bude, kao i lokalnih kraljeva i dvorskog života između XI i XIII veka kada su hramovi nastajali. Umesto taksija, po izlasku iz aerodroma ulazilo se u čeze, kojim započinje putovanje kroz prošlost. Svaki od hramova sadrži delić Budinog života i dela i u svakom trenu stvara iluziju da će tu negde početi da lebdi njegov smireni lik. Zalazak sunca na reci Iravadi, ili sa nekog od hramova, ekstaza je doživljavanja ovog svetog mesta, kao i izlazak sunca među hramovima i stupama kojima se, u ljubičastoj izmaglici, ne vidi kraj. Tada jednostavno poželite da nikada ne odete sa ovog mesta, da se potpuno izgubite među njima dok ne pronađete trajni mir u sebi.

Traganje se nastavlja u drugom, najvećem gradu i prestonici severnog dela zemlje, koji se naziva Mandalej. To je centar izučavanja burmanske kulture i budizma, a u njemu i okolini nalaze se neki od najlepših hramova i manastira, pagoda Kutodo sa 729 stupa, stara prestonica i besmrtni grad Amarapura.

Da li je Buda učinio čudo kad je postavio ogromnu stenu, sa malom pagodom na njoj, da skoro lebdi držeći se na jednoj tački? Narod u to veruje, neprestano na nju lepi zlatne listiće i zato se ona naziva Pagoda zlatna stena. Koliko još samo čuda postoji u ovoj neobičnoj, začaranoj zemlji?

U potrazi za Budom u sebi, svako traganje ima smisla; on će, možda, ipak doći kada to od njega ne budemo očekivali. Naša dobra dela sama će nas dovesti do njega.

Februar 1993.

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Previously known as Burma, this mystical country is one of the most interesting in the world. I always want to go back to Myanmar, just like my friends Jelena and Čeda Radojković who go there almost every year. Some magical attraction draws them back to it, as this is a country you fall in love with immediately and never forget.

Time has stopped here, like in neighbouring Laos, yet in a different, inexplicably beautiful way; it is felt in the smell of the river, taste of the air, vibration of temple bells, or during rides in multi-coloured and decrepit vehicles. The entire country is a true Buddhist fairytale, however even the Buddha himself would not tolerate the injustices it suffered in its recent history. Yet as the fundamental virtues of Buddhism are patience and wisdom, the people of Myanmar believe they will persevere, encouraged by one of their leaders, the winner of the Nobel Prize for Peace,Aung San Suu Kyi. Confined for many years in home detention, with her noble character and kind words she advised her people to stay on the peaceful route to democracy.

The huge golden dome of the Shwedagon pagoda in the centre of the capital Yangon is visible from the airplane and is one of the largest in the Buddhist world. It is situated atop a hill from which the five Buddhas were supposed to take humanity into Nirvana. The sacred silence, the sounds of a quiet prayer, the warm smell of incense and the warmth of marble slabs all envelop your body while you have a long walk around stupas and the temple’s huge bells and golden and white statues of Buddhas whose eyes look at you each time in a different way. Like Buddhism itself, Burma is full of powerful emotional charge which exudes from all magical things that exist around here and it silently seeps into your very being, aspiring to stay there for ever. Because of this, the connection with this country is life long and indestructible.

I was wondering if the word ‘pagan’ originated from the name Pagan or Bagan in their language. Bagan is one of the largest and most important Buddhist centres in South East Asia, with around 4000 temples and stupas with their cracked walls depicting the life of Buddha as well as the lives of local kings and their court life from the 11th-13th centuries when these temples were built.

Upon exiting the airport, instead of a taxi, you are driven by a carriage that starts you on your journey to the past. Each and every temple depicts an episode from Buddha’s life which creates an illusion that his peaceful countenance will appear and start hovering above you. Watching sunset at Irrawaddy River, or from one of the temples, brings you an ecstatic experience of this holy place; the same feelings are stirred when you watch sunrise amongst the temples and stupas, which seem infinite in the lilac mist. Then, you simply wish that you never had to leave this place, that you could just disappear in it until you have found a lasting inner peace.

My exploration continues in the second biggest city and capital of the country’s North, called Mandalay. It is a centre for the study of Burmese culture and Buddhism, and in this city and around it the most beautiful examples of temples and monasteries are to be found; in its surroundings there is also a famous Kuthodaw Pagoda with 729 stupas, as well as the old capital, the immortal city of Amarapura.

Was it Buddha’s miracle – a huge rock with a small pagoda on top of it resting on a tiny dot of land, appearing to hover in a balancing act? People believe in this miracle, constantly sticking golden leaves on it and that is why it is called the Golden Rock Pagoda. How many more miracles are there in this unusual, enchanted country?

Every exploration with the aim of finding Buddha in yourself is meaningful; maybe he will appear when we least expect it. Our good doings will lead us to him.

February 1993

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