MEKSIKO – MEXICO – MÉXICO

Zabavni park Skaret na Jukatanu-Xcaret amusement park in Yucatan

Zabavni park Skaret na Jukatanu-Xcaret amusement park in Yucatan

Arheolosko nalaziste Maja Usmal na poluostrvu Jukatan-Mayan archaeological site Uxmal in Yucatan penninsula

Arheolosko nalaziste Maja Usmal na poluostrvu Jukatan-Mayan archaeological site Uxmal in Yucatan penninsula

Arheolosko nalaziste Palenke na Jukatanu-Palenque archeological site in Yucatan

Arheolosko nalaziste Palenke na Jukatanu-Palenque archeological site in Yucatan

Centralni trg-istorijski centar glavnog grada-Historic centre of the capital Mexico City

Centralni trg-istorijski centar glavnog grada-Historic centre of the capital Mexico City

Crkva u Gvadalahari-A church in Guadalajara

Crkva u Gvadalahari-A church in Guadalajara

Glavni trg u Meridi-Plaza de Armas in Merida

Glavni trg u Meridi-Plaza de Armas in Merida

Gradska katedrala Meksiko Sitija-The Metropolitan Cathedral of Mexico City

Gradska katedrala Meksiko Sitija-The Metropolitan Cathedral of Mexico City

Grobovi pastelnih boja na Jukatanu-Pastel coloured graves in Yucatan

Grobovi pastelnih boja na Jukatanu-Pastel coloured graves in Yucatan

Hram Kukulkan u Cicenici-The Temple of Kukulkan at Chichen Itza

Hram Kukulkan u Cicenici-The Temple of Kukulkan at Chichen Itza

Indijanke prodaju rukotvorine ispred arheoloskog lokaliteta Mitla-Local women selling handicrafts in front of Mitla archeological site

Indijanke prodaju rukotvorine ispred arheoloskog lokaliteta Mitla-Local women selling handicrafts in front of Mitla archeological site

Karneval u Putli u drzavi Oahaka-The Putla carnival, State of Oaxaca

Karneval u Putli u drzavi Oahaka-The Putla carnival, State of Oaxaca

Kolonijalna crkva u mestu Cholula-A colonial church in Cholula

Kolonijalna crkva u mestu Cholula-A colonial church in Cholula

Bivsi predsednik i moj brat-Former President Luis Echeverria at his home with my brother

Bivsi predsednik i moj brat-Former President Luis Echeverria at his home with my brother

Moji sinovi na vrhu hrama-My sons on the top of the temple

Moji sinovi na vrhu hrama-My sons on the top of the temple

Narodna radinost-National folk dresses

Narodna radinost-National folk dresses

Piramida sunca-The Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan

Piramida sunca-The Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan

Ploveci restorani na jezeru Socimilko na jugu glavnog grada-Boat restaurats on the lake Xochimilco in the capital's South

Ploveci restorani na jezeru Socimilko na jugu glavnog grada-Boat restaurats on the lake Xochimilco in the capital’s South

San Cristobal de las Casas Cathedral

San Cristobal de las Casas Cathedral

Sombrero sesiri-Mexican sombreros

Sombrero sesiri-Mexican sombreros

Tulum na poluostrvu Jukatan-Tulum at the Yucatan peninsula

Tulum na poluostrvu Jukatan-Tulum at the Yucatan peninsula

U poznatom pogranicnom gradu Tihuani-In the famous border city of Tijuana

U poznatom pogranicnom gradu Tihuani-In the famous border city of Tijuana

Velika piramida Usmal-The Great Pyramid at Uxmal

Velika piramida Usmal-The Great Pyramid at Uxmal

Vesele Meksikanke-Cheerful Mexican women

Vesele Meksikanke-Cheerful Mexican women

México lindo y querido. Lepi i voljeni Meksiko. To je, jednostavno rečeno,
ono što osećam prema toj zemlji, što oseća i celi njen narod, nešto što uvek
izlazi iz srca i pesme. To je rečenica koja se ponavlja u tužnim pesmama
marijača, na trgu Garibaldi u glavnom gradu, bar stotinu puta svake noći i
koja je stalno na usnama svakog Meksikanca od Zapate do danas.
Meseci koje sam proveo u toj zemlji ostavili su na mene neizbrisivi trag.
Putovao sam kroz celu zemlju, od Tihuane na severu, do pokrajine Čiapas na
jugu, od Akapulka na pacifičkoj, do Verakruza i Kankuna na karipskoj obali.
U Meksiko Sitiju sam se usavršavao u njihovim najboljim bolnicama i
posmatrao Popokatepetl, ili, kako ga oni nazivaju El Popo, svakog jutra dok
bih južnom obilaznicom Periférico Sur vozio svoj ogromni stari krajsler,
kojim sam odlazio na posao.
Aida i njena majka Tereza Veles, zvana Mamita, pružile su mi gostoprimstvo
svog doma i ostale u srcu celog zivota. Aida je radila kod bivšeg
predsednika Meksika Luisa Ečeverije, kao i u meksičkoj ambasadi u Beogradu,
tako da govori srpski i obožava Tita. Zauvek je u duši ostala Jugoslovenka
kojoj je raspad zemlje teže pao od mnogih sa ovih balkanskih prostora. Umela
je da okupi našu koloniju za Božić i Novu godinu. Nebrojene tekile
(Meksikanci kažu tequilita jer svemu tepaju) popili smo u njihovom domu, na
tradicionalan meksički način, uz so i limetu.
Susret sa velikim i mudrim čovekom svog vremena i prijateljem moje zemlje,
gospodinom Ečeverijom u njegovoj kući, bio je zaista poseban događaj. Moj
brat Milan je napravio intervju sa njim za beogradski Studio B, u kome je on
govorio o svom prijateljstvu prema Jugoslaviji i Titu i brojnim putovanjima
po svetu, koja je ilustrovao fotografijama i poklonima dobijenim od
državnika. Ti pokloni, kao i velika zbirka umetničkih predmeta i slika, bili
su brižljivo raspoređeni u njegovoj velikoj kući, koja je izgledala kao
prava meksička hacijenda u elitnoj četvrti grada.
Meksikanci su poseban narod, što se uostalom može reći za svaki narod, ali
posle mnogo vremena provedenog sa njima imam utisak da su, ipak, sasvim
posebni. Voleo sam da slusam njihovu muziku, kako onu staru koju su stvarali
Agustin Lara, Peres Prado i druge legende, tako i noviju, jer muzika je
neraskidivi deo njihovog života, običaja, ljubavi.
U Meksiku se neosporno najbolje jede na ulici. Kad se prilagodite tim
ukusima, oni postaju nešto za čime kasnije tragate po svim meksičkim
restoranima u svetu, ali to nikada ne bude isto. Kaže se da postoje tri
osnovne svetske kuhinje, iz kojih su se razvile ostale: kineska, persijska i
meksička. Korišćenje kukuruznog umesto belog brašna u svakodnevnoj ishrani
mnogo je zdravije, a specijaliteti kao što su tacos, tortillas, gorditas,
quesadillas, tamales, guacamole, uz sveprisutnu salsa verde, predstavljaju
jedinstvenu simfoniju ukusa. Kult hrane je ovde neprikosnoven.
Meksiko se ne može opisati na ovako malom prostoru, ali on staje u srce i
odatle nikada ne odlazi.
México lindo y querido. Para siempre. Zauvek.

Oktobar 1991.
__________________________________________________________

México lindo y querido. Beautiful and beloved Mexico. Simply said, that is
what I feel for this country, what all its people feel, something that
always pours from each heart and comes out in every song. This sentence is
repeated every night a hundred times over, in the sad songs of mariachi on
the capital’s Garibaldi Square; it is on the lips of every Mexican from
Zapata’s era to this day.
Months spent in this country left an indelible impression on me. I travelled
across the entire country from Tijuana in the North to the province of
Chiapas in the South, from Acapulco on the Pacific coast to Veracruz and
Cancún on the Caribbean coast. In Mexico City I trained in their best
hospitals and observed Popocatepetl, or as they call it, El Popo, every
morning on my way to work, driving my huge old Chrysler down the South
Circular road, Periférico Sur.
Aida and her mother Teresa Velez, called Mamita, offered me the hospitality
of their own home and they have remained in my heart throughout my life.
Aida worked for the former President of Mexico, Luis Echeverría, as well as
in the Mexican Embassy in Belgrade, so she speaks Serbian and adores Tito.
She remained a true Yugoslav at the bottom of her heart and the collapse of
Yugoslavia hit her harder than it did some people from the Balkans. She used
to gather people from ex-Yugoslavia and celebrate Christmas and New Year. In
their home we had countless tequillas (or tequilita as Mexicans call it as
they use terms of endearment for everything), in a traditional Mexican way,
with salt and lime.
Meeting a great and wise man during his time in office, a friend of my
country, Mr. Echeverría, in his residence, was a truly exceptional
experience. My brother Milan conducted an interview with him for the
Belgrade TV station Studio B, in which he talked about his friendship with
Yugoslavia and Tito, and his worldwide travel, illustrating his stories with
photographs and presents he had received from other statesmen. Those
presents as well as a huge collection of art objects and paintings were
carefully placed around his big house which looked like a true Mexican
hacienda in the elite part of the city.
Mexicans are a people apart, which can really be said about any nationality,
but after an extensive time spent with them, I got the impression that they
genuinely are different. I liked to listen to their music, the old style
created by Agustín Lara, Perez Prado and other legends, as well as the more
contemporary music, because music is an irreplaceable part of their life,
customs, and expressions of love.
Undoubtedly the best food to be had in Mexico is street food. When you get
used to the taste of this food you keep looking for it in every and each
Mexican restaurant around the world that you go to, but it is never the
same. It is said that there are three main cuisines in the world from which
all others developed: Chinese, Persian and Mexican. Using corn flour instead
of white flour is more healthy in everyday cooking and specialties such as
tacos, tortillas, gorditas, quesadillas, tamales, guacamole,  with always
present salsa verde, make a unique symphony of tastes. Here, the cult of
food is absolute.
It is impossible to describe Mexico in such a limited space, but it fills
one’s heart and never leaves.
México lindo y querido. Para siempre. Forever.

October 1991

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