MALDIVI – MALDIVES – ދިވެހިރާއްޖޭގެ ޖުމްހޫރިއްޔާ

Ajkule se cuvaju u otvorenim bazenima-Sharks are kept in open pools

Ajkule se cuvaju u otvorenim bazenima-Sharks are kept in open pools

Beskonacna lepota uzivanja-The eternal beauty of enjoying life

Beskonacna lepota uzivanja-The eternal beauty of enjoying life

Kaafu Atoll

Kaafu Atoll

Lepa morska zvezda-A beautiful starfish

Lepa morska zvezda-A beautiful starfish

Maldivski raj iz aviona-A view of the Maldives paradise from the plane

Maldivski raj iz aviona-A view of the Maldives paradise from the plane

Mestanin vozi jedrenjak-A local sailor

Mestanin vozi jedrenjak-A local sailor

Palme na belom pesku-Palms on the white sand

Palme na belom pesku-Palms on the white sand

Turisticki kompleks uklopljen u prirodu-A tourist resort blends in with the surrounding nature

Turisticki kompleks uklopljen u prirodu-A tourist resort blends in with the surrounding nature

Velika dzamija u glavnom gradu-The Grand Friday Mosque in Male

Velika dzamija u glavnom gradu-The Grand Friday Mosque in Male

Više od hiljadu koralnih ostrvaca čine ovaj tropski arhipelag u Indijskom okeanu. Danas je ova zemlja jedna od najpoznatijih turističkih odrednica, najmanja je država u Aziji i najniža na svetu: visina njenog „najvišeg vrha“ iznosi samo 2.3 metra. Ostalo čine korali i podvodni vrtovi, koji oduševljavaju sve one koji u njih zavire. Najpoznatiji ronilac, koji je ostavio fascinantne fotografije i filmove podvodnog maldivskog raja, bila je Leni Rifenštal. Kontroverzna i šarmantna Nemica ostala je upamćena po svojim umetničkim filmovima o usponu nacizma i serijama fotografija i filmova sa juga Sudana, ali i po tome što je krunisala svoju radoznalost polaganjem ronilačkog ispita u sedamdesetoj godini. Morala je da kaže kako ima dvadeset godina manje da bi joj to dozvolili, što joj nije bilo teško ako se ima na umu njen mladalački izgled i vitka linija. Radoznali duh je pobedio, a svet dobio čudesne podvodne slike Indijskog okeana.
U glavni gradić Malé, na istoimenom atolu, stigli smo sa juga Indije, a ne u turističkom paketu, kako se ovde uglavnom dolazi. U njemu živi nešto više od sto hiljada stanovnika i ne poseduje nikakve atrakcije vredne dužeg zadržavanja. Ipak ga se sećam po nekim prašnjavim sokacima i skromnom smeštaju, koji se tamo mogao pronaći pre više od dvadeset godina. U glavnom gradu skoro da niko nije provodio noć, jer su svi turisti odmah odlazili na neko od ostrva predviđenih za odmor. Danas je čitavo ostrvo prekriveno građevinama, pa je čak i novo, veštačko ostrvce moralo biti pridodato. Nova džamija, koja blešti na suncu, podseća na to da se nalazite u muslimanskoj zemlji, čiji je predsednik, nakon što je zbacio monarhiju, srušio kraljevsku palatu i zaveo čvrstu vlast. Posle hiljadugodišnje vladavine maldivskih sultana, republika se održavala represivnim merama, što srećom nije uticalo na turističke tokove.
Popularnost Maldiva veoma je porasla u svetu poslednjih decenija, zahvaljujući prirodnim lepotama takozvanog tropskog raja. Ostrvca belog peska proviruju iz vode koja je uvek topla, mirna i tirkizna. Bungalovi često ulaze u more, a neki svojim staklenim podom omogućavaju da se podvodni svet posmatra i sa kreveta prekrivenih cvetovima hibiskusa. Velika korpa raznolikog voća na drvenoj verandi s pogledom na pučinu dopunjuje ovaj tropski raj, u kome nema drugih aktivnosti osim uživanja. Sve je tako mirno da postepeno prelazi u sladunjavu dokolicu i lenjost, koja obuzima telo i umiruje čula.
To su Maldivi na kojima se ne dešava ništa osim odmora. I da li je, uopšte, potrebno da se nešto dešava?

Jun 1989.
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This tropical archipelago in the Indian Ocean consists of more than a thousand coral atolls. Today this country is one of the most famous tourist destinations, it is the smallest Asian country and it has the lowest altitude in the world: its ‘tallest peak’ is only 2.3 metres. The rest are coral reefs and underwater gardens that delight anyone who has had a peek. The most famous diver, who left fascinating photographs and film footage of the Maldivian underwater paradise, was Leni Riefenstahl. This controversial and charming German woman is remembered by her artistic movies about the the rise of Nazism, and series of photographs and films from the South of Sudan; but also by the fact that she crowned her curiosity with passing the diving test when she was 70 years old. She had to say she was 20 years younger so that she was allowed to do this, which was not difficult taking into account her youthful looks and slender body. The spirit of curiosity prevailed and the world gained wonderful underwater images of the Indian Ocean.
We arrived in the capital city of Malé situated on the atoll with the same name from the South of India and not on a tourist package, as most do. It has just over 100,000 inhabitants and does not boast any attractions worth stopping for. Yet I remember its dusty alleyways and modest accommodation that could be found there more than 20 years ago. Almost no one stayed in the city overnight as all the tourists would go straight away to one of the islands designated as holiday spots. Today the whole island is covered in buildings, and even a new, artificial island was added to it. A newly built mosque glimmering in the sun reminds us that we are in a Muslim country, whose president, after overthrowing the monarchy, tore down the Royal Palace and established a dictatorship. Following the thousand year long rule of the Maldivian sultans, the Republic has been upheld by repression; fortunately this did not affect the influx of tourists.
In the last decades the popularity of the Maldives has soared, thanks to the natural beauties of the so-called tropical paradise. Small islands with white sand loom above the water which is always warm, tranquil and turqoise. Some bungalows actually dip in the sea, and some of them having glass see-through floors, allow you to watch the underwater world from the comfort of your bed which is covered in hibiscus leaves. A huge basket full of various fruit placed on a wooden veranda with a view on to the open sea, only adds to this tropical paradise, where there is no activity apart from pleasure. Everything is so peaceful that sweet boredom prevails and laziness takes over the body and calms the senses.
So these are the Maldives where nothing happens apart from holidays. Does anything actually need to be happening?

June 1989

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