MALAVI – MALAWI

Uredno poredjani paradajz-Tomatoes in a row

Uredno poredjani paradajz-Tomatoes in a row

Kodeks oblacenja-Dress code

Kodeks oblacenja-Dress code

Kormorani na steni-Cormorants on a rock

Kormorani na steni-Cormorants on a rock

Lokalne maske i stitovi-Local masks and shields

Lokalne maske i stitovi-Local masks and shields

Mauzolej prvog predsednika-The mausoleum of the First President

Mauzolej prvog predsednika-The mausoleum of the First President

Mladi par na obali-A young couple on the shore

Mladi par na obali-A young couple on the shore

Na jezeru Malavi - On Lake Malawi

Na jezeru Malavi – On Lake Malawi

Na jezeru Malavi - On Lake Malawi

Na jezeru Malavi – On Lake Malawi

Prodavci kraj puta-Vendors by the road

Prodavci kraj puta-Vendors by the road

Ribarski camac na obali jezera Malavi-A fishing boat on the shore of Lake Malawi

Ribarski camac na obali jezera Malavi-A fishing boat on the shore of Lake Malawi

Seoska idila - A village idyll

Seoska idila – A village idyll

Seoska idila-A village idyll

Seoska idila-A village idyll

Spomenik osnivacu nacije i prvom predsedniku Dr. Bandi-The statue of the founder of the nation and the first President Dr. Hastings Kamuzu Banda

Spomenik osnivacu nacije i prvom predsedniku Dr. Bandi-The statue of the founder of the nation and the first President Dr. Hastings Kamuzu Banda

Stado u ravnici-A herd in the plain

Stado u ravnici-A herd in the plain

“Neotkriveni biser u srcu Afrike” najbolji je opis ove zemlje za koju mnogi,
nažalost, ne znaju da uopšte postoji. Pored toga što se zaista nalazi na
mestu gde bi, da je Afrika živi organizam, bilo smešteno srce, ovu zemlju
još nazivaju “toplo afričko srce”, misleći pritom na dobrotu njenih
stanovnika. Oni su stalno nasmejani i dobrodušni i izgledaju kao da se
uopšte ne ljute, što često nije svojstveno afričkom stanovništvu. Njihova
dobrota vas okružuje od prvog trenutka kada stupite na plodno i večito
zeleno tle ove zemlje, na njene ogromne ravnice i polja, na kojima skoro sve
uspeva. Iz aviona Malavi izgleda kao brižljivo dizajniran japanski vrt, a
posebno plantaže čaja u planinskom delu zemlje.
Iako ne izlazi na more, čini se da Malaviju more nije ni potrebno pored
velikog istoimenog jezera, koje se pruža skoro čitavom dužinom zemlje.
Jezero Malavi je treće po veličini u Africi, a njegove peščane plaže odaju
pravi morski doživljaj. Na nekima od njih nalaze se ekskluzivni bungalovi,
na drugim oni jednostavniji, ali svi oni pružaju pravo uživanje u ovom
“zvezdanom jezeru”, kako ga je nekad nazvao veliki afrički istraživač Dejvid
Livingston.
Nacionalni parkovi kao što su Nyika, Kasungu, Lengwe i drugi, ukupno devet,
čine veliki deo teritorije zemlje i značajnu turističku odrednicu. Iako
nemaju tako atraktivnu faunu kao oni u Keniji i Tanzaniji, ipak poseduju
neizmerne prirodne lepote, eleganciju smeštaja i poseban pristup i
ljubaznost.
Glavni grad Lilongve uopšte ne pretenduje da stvara svoju nepostojeću
istoriju, već jednostavno priznaje da nikakva značajna ličnost nije u njemu
rođena, nije vođena ni jedna presudna bitka na njegovom tlu, nije izrastao
ni jedan pokret, niti kroz njega prošao bilo kakav važan trgovački put.
Jednostavno je izabran da bude glavni grad 1975. godine, dugo posle sticanja
nezavisnosti zemlje.
Malavi ima tri posebne ličnosti koje su obeležile njegovu istoriju: David
Livingstone, po čijem je mestu rođenja, Blantajer u Škotskoj, tako nazvan
najvažniji i najstariji grad na tlu Malavija, Harry Hamilton Johnston, koji
je početkom prošlog veka postao britanski upravnik ove oblasti koja se zvala
Njasalend i bila deo Britanske Centralne Afrike i, konačno, otac nacije i
prvi predsednik, Hastings Kamuzu Banda, čiji se spomenik i mauzolej nalaze u
glavnom gradu. Bio je veoma strog, ali je nizom zakona postavio temelje ove
države, od kojih su čak neki regulisali javno oblačenje i dužinu ženske
suknje. Svaki stranac, koji se usudio da kritikuje doktora Bandu, odmah je
bio proteran.
Nasmejani policajac na aerodromu prelistava mi pasoš a zatim, na moje
zaprepašćenje, počinje priču o Crnoj ruci, ubistvu Ferdinanda i početku
Prvog svetskog rata. Voli istoriju, kaže. Nastavljamo priču o istoriji
Balkana, sve do ulaska u avion i uz obećanje da ću ponovo doći, ali na duži
period, kada će mi pokazati drugi deo jezera.
Uz široki osmeh, naravno, i “toplo afričko srce”.

Februar 2012.
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‘Undiscovered jewel in the heart of Africa’ is the best description of this
country which unfortunately some people don’t know even exists. If Africa
was a living organism, then Malawi would indeed be where its heart should
be. Apart from this, Malawi is called ‘The Warm Heart of Africa’ because of
the kindness of its people. They are always smiling and good-natured and
look like they can never be angry, which is not so common for other African
nations. Their kindness surrounds you from the moment you set foot on the
fertile, eternally green soil of this country, on its huge plains and fields
that can grow almost anything. From the airplane, Malawi looks like a
carefully designed Japanese garden, especially the tea plantations in the
mountains.
Malawi does not have a sea, but it seems it does not really need it, because
of a large lake bearing the same name that runs along the length of the
country. Lake Malawi is the third largest lake in Africa and its sandy
beaches provide an experience equal to the seaside. Some beaches boast
exclusive bungalows, some offer more modest accommodation, but they all
enable you to fully enjoy ‘The Lake of Stars’ as it was called by the great
African explorer David Livingstone.
National parks such as Nyika, Kasungu, Lengwe and others, the total of nine,
take a large proportion of the country’s territory and are a significant
tourist destination. Even though they do not possess such an attractive
fauna as the parks in Kenya and Tanzania, they still boast outstanding
natural beauties, elegant accommodation with a unique approach and kindness
of staff.
The capital city Lilongwe does not aspire to create history that did not
exist, admitting simply that no famous people were born in it, no decisive
battles were fought on its soil, no political movement developed here and no
important trade routes ever passed through here. It was just nominated to
become the capital city, long time after the gaining of independence in
1975.
Yet Malawi’s history has been marked by three important personalities: David
Livingstone -the oldest and most important city in Malawi was called after
his Scottish birthplace – Blantyre; Harry Hamilton Johnston who became the
British governor at the beginning of the last century of Nyasaland, the
region which was part of the British Central Africa; and finally Hastings
Kamuzu Banda, the first president and father of the nation whose monument
and mausoleum are located in the capital. He was very strict but his legal
system provided the foundations for this country; some of the laws even
proscribed the dress code and the length of women’s skirts. Any foreigner
that dared criticise Dr Banda was immediately banished.
A smiling policeman at the airport leafs through my passport and then, to my
consternation, he begins a conversation about the Black Hand, the
assassination of Archduke Ferdinand and the beginning of World War I. He
says he likes history. We continue the conversation about the history of the
Balkans all the way to the airplane and he has me promise that I will come
again, but next time for longer, so he can show me the other side of the
lake.
Of course, with a broad smile, and a ‘warm African heart’.

February 2012

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