LUKSEMBURG – LUXEMBOURG

Adolfov most- Adolphe bridge

Adolfov most- Adolphe bridge

Crkva-St. Donatus Larochette Church

Crkva-St. Donatus Larochette Church

Hotel des Postes

Hotel des Postes

Katedrala-Notre Dame de Luxembourg Cathedral

Katedrala-Notre Dame de Luxembourg Cathedral

Palata Velikog vojvode-The Grand Duke's Palace

Palata Velikog vojvode-The Grand Duke’s Palace

Pogled na crkvu Svetog Mihajla, najstariju u zemlji-A view of the oldest church in the country, St. Michael's

Pogled na crkvu Svetog Mihajla, najstariju u zemlji-A view of the oldest church in the country, St. Michael’s

Pogled na Laroset iz zamka-A view of Larochette from the castle

Pogled na Laroset iz zamka-A view of Larochette from the castle

Pogled na luk mosta Adolphe-A view of the arch of Adolphe bridge

Pogled na luk mosta Adolphe-A view of the arch of Adolphe bridge

Pogled na recicu Petris-The Petrusse flowing through Luxembourg

Pogled na recicu Petris-The Petrusse flowing through Luxembourg

Sa prozora kuce mog prijatelja-A view from the window of my friend's house

Sa prozora kuce mog prijatelja-A view from the window of my friend’s house

St. Willibrord Basilica, Echternach

St. Willibrord Basilica, Echternach

U školi smo ga zvali Paganini jer je na priredbama je tako lepo svirao violinu. Mnogo godina kasnije, u usponu svoje muzičke karijere, otišao je u Luksemburg. Moj prijatelj Darko Milojević i danas tamo živi, radi i svira i posle toliko vremena ima svoj trio, koji je duhovito nazvao D’Arco. Ne znam da li je svirao za Velikog vojvodu Žana od Luksemburga, mada ga nisam ni pitao. To mi je ime uvek zvučalo impozantnije od imena nekog kralja, pa mi se onda verovatno čini da neko, ko je zaista značajan u umetničkom smislu, kao moj drug Darko, zavređuje pažnju bar jednog velikog vojvode koji bi ga pažljivo slušao, a zatim ga postavio, u najmanju ruku, za upravnika Konzervatorijuma ili Opere. Možda Vojvoda, s druge strane, i nema sluha za muziku, ali je to manje važno u odnosu na činjenicu da je Darko priznati muzičar u toj zemlji, a i daleko van nje.
Pamtim samo da sam stigao u Veliko Vojvodstvo Luksemburg jedne noći punog meseca, vozom i sa studentskom Inter-Rail kartom, i da sam najpre uočio obrise dvorca Velikog vojvode, koji je tada na mene delovao nestvarno: na brdu, obasjan hladnim mesečevim sjajem. Sećam se doline kroz koju je proticala reka i uopšte brdovite konfiguracije istoimenog grada. Maglovito se sećam i arhitekture grada, koja mi je ličila na arhitekturu nekih pariskih arondismana, odakle sam upravo dolazio.
Bilo je to, dakle, veoma davno, pa zato ni moji utisci o toj zemlji ne mogu baš biti sveži niti odražavati neke stvarne utiske o njoj, osim, kažem, maglovitih sećanja na mističnu noć kada je jedan student stigao u jednu malu, evropsku zemlju, koja je tada bila više na nivou zagonetke nego što je danas – zemlja u kojoj se donose važne odluke o sudbini evropskih naroda.
Pošto slučajno pišem o ovoj zemlji putujući kroz zapadnu Afriku, zapažam koliko je ona zastupljena u međunarodnim humaritarnim aktivnostima koje se odnose na ovaj region. Vlada ove zemlje i Cesária Évora, u ime Zelenortskih ostrva, napravili su SOS sela za nezbrinutu decu na ostrvu São Vicente, zatim je poslala pomoć u Burkinu Faso i Palestinu, tako da Luksemburg s ponosom ističe da se svrstava među najveće humanitarne donatore po glavi stanovnika.
Zanimljivo je i da Luksemburg, pored zvaničnog nemačkog i francuskog, ima i svoj, luksemburški jezik, koji je formalno ustanovljen pre dvadesetak godina, i u poslednje vreme počinje da se sve više uči u školama, kako ne bi bio zaboravljen.
Svi u Luksemburgu deluju srećno: Veliki vojvoda Žan pre mnogo godina, sada njegov sin Veliki vojvoda Anri, moj drug Darko, kao i svi Luksemburžani, koji nemaju razloga da to nisu. Ili samo tako izgleda, jer odatle baš nikada ne dolaze neke uznemirujuće vesti. Tačnije rečeno, ne dolaze nikakve vesti.

Mart 2010.
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At school, we called him Paganini, he played violin so well at school recitals. Many years later, at the peak of his musical career he left for Luxembourg. My friend, Darko Milojević, lives there even today playing, and after such a long time, he has his own trio, aptly named D’Arco. I don’t know if he has played for the Grand Duke Jean du Luxembourg, and I have not asked him. This name has always sounded to me more grand than some Royalties’ names; and then it seems to me that someone of such artistic substance as my friend Darko, should command the attention of at least one Grand Duke, who would listen to him carefully and then appoint him to be, at least, the Director of the Musical Conservatory or the Opera. On the other hand, perhaps, the Duke does not have an ear for music, but that is far less important than the fact that Darko is a renowned musician in this country as well as far away from it.
I remember that I arrived in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg on a night of the full moon, on a train with a  student Inter-Rail ticket, and the first thing I noticed were the contours of the Grand Duke’s Castle; it seemed surreal to me, atop a hill and lit by chilly moonlight. I remember a valley with a river cutting through it and the hilly outlook of the town. I vaguely remember the architecture of the city which reminded me of some of the Paris arrondissement  architecture – I had just come from there.
So it was all a long time ago and thus my impressions are not fresh, nor could they be representative of the country itself; they are more vague recollections of a mysterious night when a student arrived in a small European country, which was more of an unknown than it is today, a country where important decisions are made about the future of the European nations.
Incidentally I am travelling through West Africa while I am writing about this country and I notice how prominent Luxembourg is in humanitrian actions in this region. Luxembourg’s government and Cesária Évora on behalf of Cape Verde have created refugee villages for orphaned children on the island of São Vicente; then the government have sent aid to Burkina Faso and Palestine. Rightly so, Luxembourg is proud to point out that, per capita, their donations are amongst the largest.
It is interesting to mention that, apart from the official languages, German and French, they also have their own – Luxembourgish language, formally recognised some twenty years ago. It is increasingly taught in schools, so that it does not get forgotten.
Everyone in Luxembourg seems happy: Grand Duke Jean of many years ago, now his son – Grand Duke Henry, my friend Darko and all those Luxembourgers that have no reason not to be. Perhaps it just seems that everyone is happy, because no disturbing news ever come from here.
To be more precise, no news at all.

March 2010

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