LIHTENŠTAJN – LIECHTENSTEIN

Ispred katedrale Svetog Florina -In front of the St. Florin Cathedral

Ispred katedrale Svetog Florina -In front of the St. Florin Cathedral

Katedrala Svetog Florina u Vaduzu-Cathedral of St. Florin in Vaduz

Katedrala Svetog Florina u Vaduzu-Cathedral of St. Florin in Vaduz

Muzej savremene umetnosti-Liechtenstein Museum of Fine Arts

Muzej savremene umetnosti-Liechtenstein Museum of Fine Arts

Panorama glavnog grada-A view of the capital

Panorama glavnog grada-A view of the capital

Tu rastu i palme-Even palm trees grow here

Tu rastu i palme-Even palm trees grow here

Zamak princevske porodice-The castle of the Prince's family

Zamak princevske porodice-The castle of the Prince’s family

Zamak Vaduz-Vaduz Castle

Zamak Vaduz-Vaduz Castle

Zgrada vlade-Government House

Zgrada vlade-Government House

‘Veličina je biti mali’, kaže slogan ove planinske kneževine, uglavljene
između Austrije i Švajcarske, duž doline Rajne. Mesto gde se, kažu,
doživljavaju velike stvari na malom prostoru. Nisam mogao da zamislim veću
koncentraciju Japanaca na malom prostoru, osim u njihovoj zemlji, kao što ne
bih mogao da zamislim pristojne lokalce, koji, pripiti, dobacuju svima iz
restorana u centru Vaduza, pa čak i Japankama dovikuju Konichiwa.
Ali, eto, i to je ova mala pristojna kneževina, koja je ponosna na
‘prinčevske momente’ ove monarhije, stare oko dvesta godina, mada je
vladarska porodica jedna od najstarijih u Evropi. Ponosni su na izuzetnu
kolekciju slika, koju ljubomorno čuvaju u zamku na brdu i u Beču, tako da se
retko može videti. Ponosni su takođe i na svoju poslovnost, a Princ od
Lihtenštajna se ubraja među najbogatije vladare na svetu. Možda čak i
previše, jer su u jednom trenutku evropske monetarne vlasti povezale mladog
princa naslednika Alojza, sa ozbiljnim bankarskim aferama. Izvesne nemačke
kompanije u tišini su sklanjale svoj novac u lokalne banke brdovite
kneževine.
Zamak Vaduz je rezidencija prinčevske porodice i nalazi se, kao i svaki
zamak, na vrhu brda, odakle se jasno vidi skoro čitav prostor, kojim navodno
vladaju. Kao u bajci, ali  lokalne banke su verovatno one koje stvarno
vladaju. Zamak spolja deluje skromno, ali verovatno ne i iznutra, mada se to
ne može proveriti, jer Porodica tu živi, pa je zamak zatvoren za javnost.
Posle teškog uspona, još teže sam se spustio u grad da bih probao lokalna
vina. Zaista ih imaju i uopšte nisu tako loša. I sve se to dešava u jedinoj
turističkoj ulici u Vaduzu, u kojoj se, iskreno rečeno, nalazi sve što
postoji u ovom gradu, a vredno je doživljaja: nekoliko malih restorana i
hotela, muzej savremene umetnosti, stari i novi parlament i katolička crkva.
I to je sve, ako ne zaboravimo turistički biro u kome možete dobiti pečat
Lihtenštajna u pasoš.
Za to se plaća dva evra.

Jul 2009.
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‘To be small is to be great’ proclaims the slogan of this principality
locked in the mountains, wedged between Austria and Switzerland, along the
Rhine valley. They say it is a place where big experience is to be had in a
small space. I could not imagine so many Japanese people concentrated in
such a small space, apart from their own country, much like I could not
imagine the very decent locals who, slightly drunk, shouted to everyone from
a restaurant in the centre of Vaduz, even saying to Japanese women
Konichiwa!
Yet this is just another facet of this little, well behaved prinicipality
which is proud of its ‘princely moments’ and its monarchy’s 200 years of
existence, even though its ruling family is one of the oldest  in Europe.
They are proud of their exceptional painting collection which they jealously
guard in their castle on top of the hill, as well as in Vienna, so it is
rarely possible to see it. They are also proud of their entrepreneurial
spirit and the Prince of Liechtenstein is among the wealthiest rulers in the
world. Maybe they are even too much business orientated because the European
financial authorities have linked the young Prince Alois to some serious
banking affairs. Certain German banks kept silently putting away their money
into the local banks of this mountainous princedom.
The Vaduz Castle is the residence of the Prince’s family and is situated,
just like every other castle, on top of a hill, from where they can see the
entire region they supposedly rule. Just like in a fairy tale. In reality,
it is the local banks that most likely rule. The castle appears modest from
the outside, but probably is not on the inside, but that cannot be verified
as the Family lives in it. The castle is closed to the public.
After a very steep climb, I found it even harder to climb down to the city
in order to try some local wines. They really have quite a few and they are
not bad at all. And all this is happening in the one and only tourist spot
in the city; to be honest in this street you can find anything that exists
in the city and is worth experiencing: a handful of small restaurants and
hotels, a museum of contemporary art, the old and the new Parliament, and a
Catholic church. And that is all, unless we forget the tourist bureau where
you can get a Liechtenstein stamp in your passport.
That costs two euros.

July 2009

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