KUVAJT – KUWAIT – دولة الكويت

Bazen za konje na ergeli-A pool for horses in the stable

Bazen za konje na ergeli-A pool for horses in the stable

Dzamija u gradu Kuvajtu-A mosque in Kuwait City

Dzamija u gradu Kuvajtu-A mosque in Kuwait City

Hotel Kuwait Palace u centru glavnog grada-Hotel Kuwait Palace in the centre of the capital

Hotel Kuwait Palace u centru glavnog grada-Hotel Kuwait Palace in the centre of the capital

Hotel sa dvoranama u ogromnom drvenom brodu-A hotel with ballrooms in the largest wooden dhow Al Hashemi II

Hotel sa dvoranama u ogromnom drvenom brodu-A hotel with ballrooms in the largest wooden dhow Al Hashemi II

Kuvajtski tornjevi su simbol grada-The Kuwait Towers are symbols of the city

Kuvajtski tornjevi su simbol grada-The Kuwait Towers are symbols of the city

Kuvajtski tornjevi su simbol grada-The Kuwait Towers are the symbols of the city

Kuvajtski tornjevi su simbol grada-The Kuwait Towers are the symbols of the city

Pogled na grad-A view of the city

Pogled na grad-A view of the city

Savremena ergela-A modern stable

Savremena ergela-A modern stable

Setaliste s pogledom na tornjeve-A promenade with a view of The Kuwait Towers

Setaliste s pogledom na tornjeve-A promenade with a view of The Kuwait Towers

Simbol otpora ulasku Sadamovih trupa u zemlju-A symbol to resistance of Saddam's occupation

Simbol otpora ulasku Sadamovih trupa u zemlju-A symbol to resistance of Saddam’s occupation

Soping mol i marina u gradu Kuvajtu-A shopping mall and marina in the Kuwait City

Soping mol i marina u gradu Kuvajtu-A shopping mall and marina in the Kuwait City

Veoma pažljivo posmatram simbol ove zemlje: elegantne vodotornjeve sa staklenim kuglama pri vrhu i dugim šiljcima koji izlaze iz njih, parajući nebo. To je prepoznatljivi ponos jugoslovenskog građevinarstva, a pogled sa vrha je skoro kao iz aviona.
Moj prijatelj Nebojša Rajačić ovde radi već dvadeset godina kao plastični hirurg. Najveći stres je imao kad je odavde morao da pobegne posle ulaska vojske Sadama Huseina 1991. godine, dok mu je na radnom stolu ostao upravo završeni doktorat. A kuda i da beži, kad mu je u rodnom Sarajevu tek izbio rat, ili bar bio na pomolu.
Vodio me je svuda po gradu i otkrivao tajne kuvajtskog društva, pored ostalog i kako od nekog voća napraviti alkoholno piće. To je ovde uveliko razvijena tehnologija, mada je na zabavama viših društvenih slojeva izbor alkoholnih pića normalna pojava. I na te zabave me je vodio, na mesta gde se svetski glamur preobražava u arapsku varijantu, odakle uvek pamtim njegovu čuvenu rečenicu, koju izgovara dok znatiželjno posmatram pokrivene lepotice: “Sve ti je to, bolan, ispod toga Gucci”. A njemu bi trebalo verovati, jer, kao plastični hirurg, spada u one retke (ne)srećnike koji smeju da otkriju šta se krije ispod tih skuta.
Jedna od opsesija Arapa i njihova strasna ljubav jesu konji. Ergela koju sam video u Kuvajtu više liči na ekskluzivni hotelski kompleks, sa bazenima u kojima bih se i ja rado okupao. Oni su, ipak, namenjeni konjima, koji tamo ulaze čisti, preko prostranih i brižljivo uređenih travnjaka. Potom se vraćaju u svoje savršeno čiste “domove”, urađene u najskupljoj španskoj keramici i ukrašene orhidejama, gde slavuji i kanarinci stvaraju opuštajuću atmosferu. I sve je to smešteno daleko od grada, u pustinji, u kojoj ergela liči na oazu iz 1001 noći.
To je Kuvajt, još uvek pun kontrasta, mirniji i jednostavniji, i ne toliko glamurozan kao susedni Emirati.

April 2004.
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I carefully observe the symbol of this country, elegant water towers with glass balls at the top and long spires piercing the sky. This is a renowned example of the Yugoslav construction industry and the view from the top is like from an airplane.
My friend, Nebojša Rajačić, has been working here for twenty years as a plastic surgeon. He experienced terrible stress when he had to leave Kuwait upon the invasion of Saddam Hussein’s army in 1991, just after he had completed his doctorate. And where could he go, when in his native Sarajevo another war was looming too.
He showed me everywhere around the city, shedding light on the secrets of Kuwaiti society, including, amongst other things, how to produce alcohol from certain fruits. This alternative technology is highly developed here, even though at the parties hosted by the upper echelons of society a wide choice of alcoholic beverage is quite normal. He took me to those parties too, where international glamour takes on an Arabic appearance and while I observe covered beauties, with curiosity, I recall his famous sentence from that moment: ‘Brother, all that underneath is Gucci.’ And he should be believed because as a plastic surgeon he is (un)privileged to see what exactly is hiding underneath those robes.
One of the obsessions and great passions of the Arabs are horses. A horse farm I saw in Kuwait resembles more a luxurious hotel complex than a stable, with swimming pools that I would gladly go in myself. However, they are meant for horses that enter them completely clean, trotting across carefully manicured lawns. Then they return to their perfectly clean ‘homes’ done in the most expensive Spanish tiles, decorated with orchids, where nightingales and canaries make for a relaxing atmosphere. And all of that is far away from the city, in the desert, where the horse breeding farm looks like an oasis from the Arabian Nights.
That is Kuwait, still full of contrast, calmer and simpler than its glamorous neighbour – the Emirates.

April 2004

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