KOLUMBIJA – COLOMBIA

Crkva Karmen u Bogoti-El Carmen Church in Bogota

Crkva Karmen u Bogoti-El Carmen Church in Bogota

Fijaker stari-Old carriage

Fijaker stari-Old carriage

Glavna katedrala i Nadbiskupija u Bogoti- The cathedral of Bogota next to Sacred Chapel and Archiepiscopal Palace

Glavna katedrala i Nadbiskupija u Bogoti- The cathedral of Bogota next to Sacred Chapel and Archiepiscopal Palace

Hotel Carlston Santa Tereza-Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa

Hotel Carlston Santa Tereza-Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa

Katedrala u Kartaheni na trgu San Pedro-The Cathedral in Cartagena on San Pedro Square

Katedrala u Kartaheni na trgu San Pedro-The Cathedral in Cartagena on San Pedro Square

Ko to tamo peva-Street singer

Ko to tamo peva-Street singer

Lame na ulicicama starog dela Bogote-Llamas on the streets of old part of Bogota

Lame na ulicicama starog dela Bogote-Llamas on the streets of old part of Bogota

Mali vulkan Totumo-The small Totumo Volcano

Mali vulkan Totumo-The small Totumo Volcano

Markesova kuca u Kartaheni-The house of Gabriel Garcia Marquez in Cartagena

Markesova kuca u Kartaheni-The house of Gabriel Garcia Marquez in Cartagena

Prodavacica voca na plazi-A fruit vendor on the beach

Prodavacica voca na plazi-A fruit vendor on the beach

Spomenik Bolivaru i Narodna skupstina-The statue of Bol+şvar and National Capitol

Spomenik Bolivaru i Narodna skupstina-The statue of Bol+şvar and National Capitol

Stara berbernica-An old barber's shop

Stara berbernica-An old barber’s shop

Stare kolonijalne ulice Kartahene-Old colonial streets of Cartagena

Stare kolonijalne ulice Kartahene-Old colonial streets of Cartagena

Trg Santa Teresa u Kartaheni-Santa Teresa square in Cartagena

Trg Santa Teresa u Kartaheni-Santa Teresa square in Cartagena

Tvrdjava San Felipe u Kartaheni-San Felipe fortress in Cartagena

Tvrdjava San Felipe u Kartaheni-San Felipe fortress in Cartagena

U staroj cetvrti glavnog grada-The old quarter of the capital-La Candelaria

U staroj cetvrti glavnog grada-The old quarter of the capital-La Candelaria

U vulkanskom blatu na vrhu kratera-Volcanic mud at the top of the crater

U vulkanskom blatu na vrhu kratera-Volcanic mud at the top of the crater

Umetnost na zidovima-Art on the walls

Umetnost na zidovima-Art on the walls

Kolumbija je zanimljiva mešavina kultura i načina života, koji u njoj
pronalaze poseban smisao i lepotu, svojstvenu samo toj zemlji. Najlepša
mešavina su, ipak, ljudi, kao i toplina njihove dobrodošlice. Neobičnom
kombinacijom indioskog, evropskog i u manjem broju crnog stanovništva
nastale su mestizo lepotice, sa kojima se samo susedna Venecuela može
takmičiti, a u čemu i plastična hirurgija ima znatan udeo. Ipak, moram
priznati da nigde nisam video toliko očiglednih rezultata “za sve pare”,
kako bi se reklo.
Vedrina duha ovog naroda, dopunjena lokalnim ritmovima salse i kumbije,
stvara utisak opšte radosti, koja se može osetiti na ulicama i u brojnim
klubovima, uprkos stalnom osećanju nesigurnosti zbog kriminala, koji je,
uglavnom, povezan sa glavnim gradom Bogotom i narkoregijama u koje se ne
odlazi. Ipak je ova zemlja, nažalost, poznatija po Eskobaru i plantažama
opojnih droga, nego po smaragdima, lepoticama i muzici. Sukobi narko-kartela
i levičarska gerila u džunglama neprestano stavljaju ovu zemlju u “vesti iz
sveta”, dok se znatno manje govori o lepotama, koje čine njenu stvarnost.
Došao sam u Bogotu na tradicionalni Iberoamerički pozorišni festival, koji
svake dve godine okuplja najbolje trupe iz sveta i njihove obožavaoce, u
atmosferi opšte euforije za kulturom i pratećim sadržajima. A upravo to čini
tu atmosferu blagog ludila u koje upada čitav grad, a kome je za zabavu
potreban samo mali povod. Predstave iz bivših jugoslovenskih republika
godinama ovde su među najboljim, a reditelje Tomaža Pandura i Aleksandra
Popovskog publika veoma voli i ceni.
Uprkos nesigurnosti, Bogota ima poseban duh koji se uočava u starom
kolonijalnom jezgru grada, gde je sve živahno i obojeno pastelnim bojama.
Čak je i na glavnom trgu Bolivar, na zgradi Parlamenta, jedan novi umetnički
pravac iskazan na zidovima, na kojima je okačeno na stotine figura gvozdenih
mrava. Ipak, ogromna barokna katedrala koja dominira trgom, kao da ukazuje
na to šta je vanvremenska vrednost i lepota. Istorijska četvrt Kandelarija,
koja se pruža od Bolivarovog trga ka obližnjem brdu, najlepši je i
najposećeniji deo grada.
Baš kao u kultnom filmu Lov na zeleni dijamant, Kolumbija obiluje prirodnim
lepotama. Jedna od njih je mali vulkan Totumo, u čijem se minijaturnom
krateru nalazi lekovito blato koje seže do dve hiljade metara dubine.
Dvadesetak ljudi, koji se smeste u tom krateru, sigurno i ne pomišlja šta se
nalazi ispod njih, dok povremeno na to ne podseti poneki sumporni mehur,
koji zloslutno izleti negde iz dubine.
U blizini vulkana nalazi se najlepši grad Kolumbije, Kartahena, koji je
smešten na njenoj karipskoj obali. Stari grad je opasan dugim zidinama, koje
su građene dvesta godina da bi ga štitile od gusarskih brodova Frensisa
Drejka i njegove družine. I baš kad su završili gradnju, Špancima je došlo
vreme da odu, kao i Simonu Bolivaru, koji je, oslobodivši severni deo
kontinenta, otišao da se bori za slobodu Perua i Bolivije. Unutar zidina je
istorijsko jezgro grada, koje je, po kolonijalnoj arhitekturi, najlepše u
ovom delu sveta. Izvan njih se nalazi moderan grad, sa karipskom dušom i
belim peščanim plažama, kojima šetaju silikonske lepotice. Čuveni pisac i
Nobelovac Gabrijel Garsija Markes tu živi, u svojoj kući opasanoj zidinama
na obodu starog grada i možda u nekoj stogodišnjoj samoći, kojom sigurno ne
odiše ovaj grad. Ljudi su ovde sve, samo ne usamljeni.
Bar, posmatrano spolja, tako ne deluju.

Mart 2010.

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Colombia has an interesting mixture of cultures and ways of life which blend
into a new quality of beauty and meaning, specific to this country. The most
beautiful mixture though is to be seen in its people and their warm welcome.
The unusual combination of Indios, Europeans and to a lesser degree black
population, created the mestizo beauties, rivalled only by the neighbouring
Venezuela’s women. Yet, in all this plastic surgery plays a significant part
too. I have to confess that I have never seen such recognisable results ‘for
all that money can buy’ as they say.
The cheerful spirit of this people, accompanied by local rhythms of salsa
and cumbia create an atmosphere of joy felt in the streets and numerous
clubs, despite the constant feeling of insecurity because of the criminal,
which is mostly linked to the capital Bogotá and narco-regions that are to
be avoided. Unfortunately this country is still best known for Escobar and
drugs producing plantations than for its emeralds, its beauties and music.
The clashes between drug cartels as well as the revolutionary guerrillas in
the jungles constantly bring this country to the top of ‘world news’,
whereas numerous splendours that constitute its reality are rarely
mentioned.
I arrived in Bogotá to visit the traditional Ibero-American theatre festival
which every two years gathers the best theatrical troupes and their fans
from all over the world in the euphoric atmosphere of culture vulturing and
all the accompanying frenzy. And that is precisely what creates the
atmosphere of mild madness that the whole city sinks into, when fun and
entertainment happen spontaneously. The plays from ex-Yugoslav republics
have been rated among the best for years, whereas the directors Tomaž Pandur
and Aleksandar Popovski are highly rated and much liked by the audience.
Despite the insecurity, Bogotá possesses a special spirit which is
noticeable the most in the old colonial centre of the city, where everything
is picturesque and coloured in pastel shades. Even on the main square, on
the Parliament building itself, hundreds of metallic ant figures have been
hung, pointing to yet another new style in art. However, the huge baroque
Cathedral that dominates the square shows us what real timeless beauty and
artistic value is. The historical quarters of La Candelaria, stretching from
the Bolivar Square towards the nearby hill, is the most beautiful and most
visited part of the town.
Just like in the cult film Romancing the Stone, Columbia abounds in natural
beauties. One of them is a small volcano Totumo, with a miniature lake in
its crater, containing mud with healing properties, reaching the depth of
almost 2000 meters. Twenty or so people that make themselves comfortable in
the crater do not even think about what is below them, until a sulphuric
bubble, spurting ominously from the depths, reminds them.
Cartagena de Indios, the most beautiful Colombian city, is not far from the
volcano and is situated on the Caribbean coast. The old city is surrounded
by ramparts that took 200 years to build, in order to protect it from
Francis Drake and his pirate crews. And just as they finished the
construction of these walls, it was time for the Spaniards to leave, as well
as for Simon Bolivar, who having liberated the Northern part of the
continent, left to fight for freedom in Bolivia and Peru. The historical old
city is hidden inside these walls and it boasts the most beautiful colonial
architecture in this part of the world. Outside the walls is a modern city
with a Caribbean soul and white sandy beaches, graced with silicone beauties
walking up and down. The famous writer and Nobel Prize winner, Gabriel
García Márquez, lives here in his house on the outskirts of the Old city’s
ramparts, perhaps enveloped in his 100 years of solitude; this solitude is
certainly not felt in this city. Here, people are everything but lonely.
At least that is how they appear to an observing outsider.

March 2010

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