KIRGISTAN – KYRGYZSTAN – Кыргызстан

A veliki Lenjin samo posmatra-Great Lenin watching

A veliki Lenjin samo posmatra-Great Lenin watching

Bela kuca u Biskeku-The White House of Bishkek

Bela kuca u Biskeku-The White House of Bishkek

Ceremonija smene straze-The Changing the Guard Ceremony

Ceremonija smene straze-The Changing the Guard Ceremony

Dom Sojuza-Soyuz House

Dom Sojuza-Soyuz House

Glavni grad obiluje zelenilom-Plenty of greenery in the capital

Glavni grad obiluje zelenilom-Plenty of greenery in the capital

I tu je zivot-Life exists even here

I tu je zivot-Life exists even here

Javno novinarstvo-Public journalism

Javno novinarstvo-Public journalism

Jurta u divljini-A yurt in the wilderness

Jurta u divljini-A yurt in the wilderness

Kafe Kirgistan

Kafe Kirgistan

Na lokalnoj pijaci-The local market

Na lokalnoj pijaci-The local market

Najjaci covek Kirgizije mogao je da ponese konja-The strongest Kyrgyz man could carry a horse

Najjaci covek Kirgizije mogao je da ponese konja-The strongest Kyrgyz man could carry a horse

Ruska pravoslavna crkva u Biskeku-The Russian Orthodox Church in Bishkek

Ruska pravoslavna crkva u Biskeku-The Russian Orthodox Church in Bishkek

Tradicionalni kirgiski sesir-Traditional kyrgiz hat

Tradicionalni kirgiski sesir-Traditional kyrgiz hat

U lovu medju sneznim vrhovima Kirgizije-Hunting in the snowy Kyrgyz peaks

U lovu medju sneznim vrhovima Kirgizije-Hunting in the snowy Kyrgyz peaks

Zgrada opere i baleta-Bishkek Opera House

Zgrada opere i baleta-Bishkek Opera House

Duboko u srcu centralne Azije, između ogromnih planina pod večitim snegom, nalazi se zemlja kirgiskog naroda, mešavine gorostasnih Mongola i bledolikih Rusa. To doprinosi njihovoj posebnoj lepoti i naočitosti, a posebno savremenim ženama u glavnom gradu Biškeku, nekada Frunzeu. Smešten na obalama reke Čui, grad presecaju široki bulevari i trgovi u sovjetskom stilu. Dominiraju zgrada Parlamenta i predsednička rezidencija poznata kao Bela kuća, ali i Ulica slikara, u kojoj se može naručiti šašljik ili jagnjeći šiš kebab, kao dokaz o poreklu ovog naroda, u kome još teče otomanska krv. Epski junak Manas svuda je prisutan, njegovi spomenici se nalaze po celoj zemlji, njegovim imenom nazvan je aerodrom u Biškeku, on je heroj svih epopeja i svakodnevnog života. U Istorijskom muzeju nalazi se veoma stara mumija devojčice, nađena pre pedeset godina u provinciji Batgen, kao i dvadeset tri kamena sa inskripcijama na staroturskom. Od ostalih gradskih znamenitosti tu su Oš pijaca, na kojoj su izložene kirgiske rukotvorine, pseća pijaca, pijaca samovara, ogromni parkovi i zelenilo koje skriva nesavršenosti nekadašnjeg socijalizma, ali i Manas univerzitet i velelepna zgrada Nacionalnog teatra i opere. U njoj sam gledao Žizelu. Gostovala je Anastasija Voločkova, primabalerina Boljšoj teatra i zaslužna umetnica Rusije.
Biškek je relativno mlad grad u poređenju sa znamenitostima u njegovoj okolini, kao što je podnožje planine Tjan Šan i jedno od najvećih planinskih jezera na svetu, Isik Kul, tri sata udaljeno od Biškeka. Tradicija dimljene ribe ovde je veoma rasprostranjena i potiče od Kozaka sa Dona, tako da se time bavi skoro celokupno stanovništvo tog kraja. Riba se prodaje na obalama jezera, gde se može videti dimljeni šaran, težak i do dvadeset kilograma. Okolina jezera prerasla je u letovalište mnogih turista is Rusije i Kazahstana, a u blizini se nalazi Balasagun, mesto gde je rođen Jusuf Has Hačip, autor Kutadgu Bilip ili Knjige svetog znanja iz XI veka. Balasagun ili Burhan ima minaret, koji je nekada bio visok četrdeset osam metara, ali je posle urušavanja i restauracije smanjen na dvadeset četiri. Sa njega se pruža pogled na beskrajnu ravnicu i planinu Tjan Šan u pozadini, sa vrhovima pod večitim snegom.
Posle osamostaljivanja, centralnoazijske republike su održale mir zahvaljujući svojim jakim autokratskim liderima. Međutim, revolucija u Kirgistanu 2010. godine dovela je do zbacivanja predsednika, što ukazuje na to da se vremena menjaju i da se sovjetski model više ne sledi u potpunosti. Ipak, u planinskim vrhovima pod večitim snegom, gde moj brat i ostali lovci jure divokozu zvanu Marko Polo, narodu je svejedno ko je na vlasti poslednjih hiljadu godina.
Oni su srećni u svom ledenom miru.

Maj 2007.
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The land of Kyrgyz people is situated in the very heart of Central Asia, between the massive mountains eternally covered with snow. The Kyrgyz people are a mix of native Mongolians and pale Russians, which makes them particularly beautiful and attractive, especially the modern women of Bishkek, former Frunze, the capital. The city sprawls along the banks of the river Chui and its architecture is represented by broad boulevards and squares in the Soviet tradition. The buildings of Parliament and the Presidential Palace, known as the White House, dominate the view, as well as the Painters’ boulevard where you can order shashlik or lamb shish kebab, a proof of the Turkic origin of this people who still have some Ottoman blood running through their veins. The epic hero Manas is present everywhere, his statues are to be found all over the country, the airport in Bishkek bears his name, he is the hero of all epic poems and of ordinary life. In the History Museum you can see a very old mummy of a girl discovered fifty years ago in Batken Province, as well as twenty-three stones with inscriptions in the Old Turkic language.
Amongst other attractions, there is Osh Market displaying Kyrgyz handicrafts, there is a dog market, a samovar market, huge parks and greenery concealing the imperfections of the socialist past, but also Manas University and a magnificent building housing the National Theatre and Opera. There I watched Giselle. Anastasia Volochkova, the prima ballerina of the Bolshoi Theatre and a renowned Russian artist, was there on tour.
Bishkek is a relatively young city, compared with the sights in its surroundings, such as the Tian Shan Mountain and one of the largest mountain lakes in the world, Issyk Kul, three hours away from the capital. The tradition of smoked fish is very popular here and has originated with the Cossacks from the Don River. Almost the entire population here is engaged in it. Fish is sold around the lake shores and you can sometimes see a smoked carp weighing as much as 20 kilograms. The lake surroundings have now been developed into summer resorts for tourists from Russia and Kazakhstan and nearby you can also find Balasagun, the birthplace of Yusuf Has Hacip, the author of Kutadgu Bilig or the Book of the Sacred Knowledge from the 11th century. Balasagun or Burhat, has a tower which used to be 48m tall, but has been reduced to 24 metres after its collapse and restoration. The view from it encompasses endless plains and Tien Shan Mountain in the background, its peaks under eternal snow caps.
After gaining independence, the republics of Central Asia have preserved peace thanks to their strong, autocratic leaders. However, the Kyrgyzstan revolution in 2010 resulted in overthrowing the President, which indicates the times are changing and the people do not want to follow the Soviet model anymore. However, the people who live around those snow capped mountain peaks, where my brother and other hunters are chasing the wild sheep called Marco Polo, do not care who has been in power for the last thousand years.
They are happy in their ice-bound peace.

May 2007

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