KIPAR – CYPRUS

Anticki grad Salamis na severu-Ancient city Salamis on the North

Anticki grad Salamis na severu-Ancient city Salamis on the North

Lala Mustafa pasina dzamija u Famagusti-Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque in Famagusta

Lala Mustafa pasina dzamija u Famagusti-Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque in Famagusta

Mozaik u Pafosu-Mosaic in Paphos

Mozaik u Pafosu-Mosaic in Paphos

Na severu zemlje-In the North of the country

Na severu zemlje-In the North of the country

Nadbiskupska palata u staroj Nikoziji-Archbishop's Palace in old Nicosia

Nadbiskupska palata u staroj Nikoziji-Archbishop’s Palace in old Nicosia

Opsta kiparska gimnazija-Pancyprus high school

Opsta kiparska gimnazija-Pancyprus high school

Petra tou Romiou-Rodno mesto Afrodite-Aphrodite's birthplace

Petra tou Romiou-Rodno mesto Afrodite-Aphrodite’s birthplace

Podeljena zemlja-Divided country

Podeljena zemlja-Divided country

Prava rec-The right word

Prava rec-The right word

Selimiye mosque in Nicosia or St. Sophie cathedral

Selimiye mosque in Nicosia or St. Sophie cathedral

Spomenik arhiepiskopu Makariosu-A monument to Archbishop Makarios (2)

Spomenik arhiepiskopu Makariosu-A monument to Archbishop Makarios (2)

Tukish delight

Tukish delight

Zastava Turske republike Severni Kipar-The flag of the Turkish Republic of Nothern Cyprus

Zastava Turske republike Severni Kipar-The flag of the Turkish Republic of Nothern Cyprus

Stigao sam davnih dana na ovo izolovano mediteransko ostrvo, kada tamo još
uvek nije bilo off-shore kompanija, kao ni ruskih i srpskih tajkuna,
modernih hotela, luksuznih jahti. Osećao se, bar prema mom mišljenju, duh
krstaša Svetog Jovana Jerusalimskog u njihovom pohodu na Svetu zemlju,
pomešan sa ukusom turske kasabe i mediteranskog načina života, uz blagoslov
britanske krune.
Sve je to i danas zastupljeno, u tihom suživotu predaka koji sačinjavaju
kiparsku istoriju, uglavnom osvajača, jer Kipar nije bilo teško osvojiti. U
tom pogledu on im se prepuštao kao prolazna luka ka višim ciljevima koje su
osvajači imali, kao što su: vizantijska dominacija, oslobađanje Jerusalima,
utvrđenja vitezova templara, uz saznanje da njegov pomešani identitet ostaje
za sva vremena geografski prikovan na toj maloj teritoriji. Spomen –
mauzolej arhiepiskopu Makariosu, legendarnoj ličnosti, čiji je lik zauvek
urezan u sećanje savremenog Kipranina, sa najviše tačke ostrva ponosno
upozorava na neminovnost očuvanja nacionalnog identiteta. Savremena
stvarnost, kao i vekovno zajedništvo dveju nacija, to ipak demantuju.
Realnost života grčke i turske nacije na trenutno podeljenom ostrvu svakim
je danom podnošljivija nego što je bilo u prošlosti, kao da svakodnevni
život umanjuje značaj i učešće politike i ukazuje na njene greške.
I kao u nekoj priči, kada ”na kraju dođe čuvar, razjuri sve i zavede red”,
Englezi su konačno preuzeli Kipar od Osmanlija 1878. godine, od kada počinje
novo razdoblje u razvoju ove zemlje i njena modernizacija. Oni odlaze pre
skoro pedeset godina prepuštajući Kipar novim evropskim tekovinama, u kojima
mu ostavljaju svoje tragove: organizaciju vlasti, uprave, pa i načina
života. Crvene telefonske govornice kao u Londonu i poneki policajac
”bobby” na gradskim ulicama, podsećaju na vreme britanske dominacije, ali
i na još aktuelnu interesnu zonu na raskrsnici Evrope i Bliskog istoka.
Ruski tajkuni, arapski šeici, izraelski biznismeni, srpski perači novca i
belosvetski trgovci oružjem pronalaze ovde svoj zajednički interes, dok
njihove supruge i pratilje uživaju kraj bazena luksuznih hotela u Limasolu i
Larnaki.
Ekonomska stvarnost ipak je iznad svega.

Avgust 1983.
____________________________________________________________

In days long gone I arrived on this isolated Mediterranean island when there
were no off-shore companies, Russian and Serbian tycoons, modern hotels nor
luxurious yachts. What I found there, at least so it seemed to me, was the
spirit of the crusaders of St. John of Jerusalem on their way to the Holy
Land, mixed with the flavour of Turkish Kasbah and the Mediterranean way of
life, all blessed by the British Crown.
All this, that has characterised the quiet co-existence of various Cypriot
ancestors, can be felt today too; the history of this island is mainly the
history of conquerors, as Cyprus has never been too difficult to conquer. In
that respect, Cyprus accepted its role as a mere stop on the way to
achieving higher goals of invaders, such as the Byzantine domination,
liberation of Jerusalem, conquering the strongholds of Templars; all this
has been accompanied by the realisation that the mixed identity of Cypriots
will always remain within the geographical limits of this small island.
The Mausoleum to Archbishop Makarios, a legendary figure whose countenance
is indelible in the remembrance of every single Cypriot, is perched at the
island’s highest point, reminding them about the necessity of preservation
of the national identity. Contemporary history as well as the centennial
union of two nations, still contradict this. Every day the reality of living
in a divided country is a little bit more bearable for the Greek and Turkish
nations, as though their everyday life diminishes the importance of politics
and its doings, and points out its mistakes.
And like in some story, ‘in the end the keeper turns up, drives everyone
away and brings order to the place’, the English finally took Cyprus over
from the Ottoman Turks in 1878; a new period in the life of Cyprus and its
modernisation began hence. The British left almost 50 years ago, leaving to
Cyprus the legacy of European and British institutions such as government
and bureaucracy, even their way of life. London-like red telephone booths
and an occasional bobby in the street remind us not only of the time of the
British rule but also of a modern day intersection where European and Middle
Eastern interests always cross paths.
Russian tycoons, Arabian sheiks, Israeli businessmen, Serbian money
launderers and worldwide arms dealers all find their common interest here,
while their wives and friends enjoy the poolside of luxury hotels in
Limassol and Larnaca.
The reality of the economic interest rules above all.

August 1983

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