KENIJA – KENYA

Zgrada gradske vecnice-Nairobi City Council

Zgrada gradske vecnice-Nairobi City Council

Drvo smokve u hotelu Stenli bilo je glavno sastajaliste putnika-A fig tree in the Stanley Hotel used to be a meeting point of the travellers

Drvo smokve u hotelu Stenli bilo je glavno sastajaliste putnika-A fig tree in the Stanley Hotel used to be a meeting point of the travellers

Kuca i muzej Karen Bliksen-The Karen Blixen's house and museum

Kuca i muzej Karen Bliksen-The Karen Blixen’s house and museum

Mesto na kome se hrane zirafe-A place for feeding the giraffes

Mesto na kome se hrane zirafe-A place for feeding the giraffes

Okupljanje oko pojila-Gathering around the watering hole

Okupljanje oko pojila-Gathering around the watering hole

Pogled na moderni deo Nairobija-A view of the modern part of Nairobi

Pogled na moderni deo Nairobija-A view of the modern part of Nairobi

Tabla na ekvatoru-A road sign at the Equator

Tabla na ekvatoru-A road sign at the Equator

Tradicionalni plemenski ples-Traditional tribal dance

Tradicionalni plemenski ples-Traditional tribal dance

U centru glavnog grada-In the centre of the capital

U centru glavnog grada-In the centre of the capital

U kenijskom selu-In the Kenyan village

U kenijskom selu-In the Kenyan village

Oko tri sata posle ponoći u sobama sojenica u afričkom stilu, koje se ovde
nazivaju lodge, čuje se zvono vrlo određenog zvuka. Možda se sat vremena
ranije čuo drugačiji zvuk, jer svaki pojedinačno oglašava dolazak neke
krupnije zveri na pojilo: slona, lava ili nosoroga. U tišini izlazimo na
prostranu terasu, skrivenu u krošnjama drveća, odakle se pruža pogled na
pojilo, najčešće jednu veliku baru, obasjanu snažnom svetlošću reflektora.
Kao prema nekom pravilu opstanka, tu dolaze životinje bez straha da će im
život biti ugrožen, bar ne u trenutku kad je pred njima dragocena tečnost
“koja život znači” . Dostojanstveno prilaze tom izvoru života i tako isto
odlaze. Tokom dana sve dobija svojstva blagog nereda, ljutnje, ponekad
postaje i dramatično, sa obrtima, pri čemu mi kao, posmatrači navijamo za
slabije, najčešće bez uspeha. Priroda ovde poznaje samo zakon jačeg, koji je
u tom trenutku gladan i nadmoćan. Nama samo ostaje da okrenemo glavu na
drugu stranu.
Keniju preseca ekvator, na kome leži snežni vrh Mt. Kenya, viši od pet
hiljada metara, a veliki deo zemlje je na visoravnima gde temperature noću
drastično opadaju. I zbog toga biva tako neobično hladno u Africi.
U predgrađu glavnog grada Najrobija, Karen Bliksen je provela svoj život, na
plantažama kafe i u kući koja je pretvorena u njen muzej. Tu je nastajala
Moja Afrika, a potom je Meril Strip potpuno ušla u njen lik u istoimenom
filmu, koji je pokrenuo moje prve težnje ka ovom kontinentu. Kako bih tada
bio srećan da sam znao da će to jednog dana biti i “moja Afrika”, i da ću
uživati u svakoj od brojnih zemalja na afričkom kontinentu.
Kenija je u prošlosti, kao i danas, bila sinonim za safari. Ja sam ipak više
uživao u koloritu Masai plemena, ulazio u njihove kolibe, fotografisao ih
kako svoje krave teraju preko brda i nestaju u oblacima, izvode svoje
tradicionalne adumu plesove, skačući što više uvis dok im široke ogrlice kao
okovratnici zastaju u letu. Obučeni su u tradicionalne crvene toge, omotane
oko tela i ukrašeni nakitom od raznobojnih perlica. Masai narod živi
polunomadski na jugu Kenije i severu Tanzanije, oko velikih safari parkova,
tako da su i oni sami atrakcija za turiste, kojima se dopadaju njihove
rukotvorine, plesovi i običaji.
Mombasa, sa belim peščanim plažama i dobro organizovan safari u nacionalnim
parkovima Amboseli i Masai Mara čine Keniju veoma popularnom destinacijom za
bezbrižno upoznavanje Afrike. To još uvek nije ona prava Afrika, za čije bi
bolje upoznavanje trebalo uložiti veći napor i krenuti ka divljini, ka
afričkom bušu i narodima koji nisu uvek prijateljski raspoloženi prema
belcima, kao i ka lepoj, ali nemilosrdnoj prirodi.
Afrika je i dalje velika misterija, koju morate zavoleti da biste je
postepeno i sigurno otkrivali.

Septembar 1997.
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Around 3am, in a stilt house in African style, commonly called a lodge, we
hear a particular sound of a bell. Maybe an hour earlier, we heard a
different sound, and all sounds announce the arrival of a different, usually
large animal to the watering hole – it could be an elephant, a lion or a
rhinoceros. Silently we come out on to a large balcony, hidden behind the
tree tops, from where we can see the watering hole, usually a large puddle,
lit up by powerful limelight. Just as by a survival rule, the animals come
here without any fear of danger, at least when they are in front of the
‘precious liquid that gives life’. They come to the source of life and go
away in a dignified way. During the day, everything becomes a little chaotic
or irate; sometimes it is really dramatic with twists and turns of fate,
while we as spectators root for the weaker ones, usually without success.
Nature knows only the law of the stronger, who is, at that moment, hungry
and overpowering. Then, all we can do is look away.
The Equator cuts through Kenya at the point of the snow-capped Mt. Kenya
which is more than 5000 metres high. Large parts of the country are
highlands with temperatures dropping severely overnight and making it
unusually cold for Africa.
Karen Blixen spent her life in a Nairobi suburb, on coffee plantations and
in her house which has been turned into a museum. That is where Out of
Africa was conceived and then when Meryl Streep brought her character to
life so wonderfully in the film with the same name, is what gave me an
impetus for the first time to visit this continent. If only I knew then that
one day this would become ‘My Africa’ too and that I would enjoy all
different countries on this continent! I would have been so happy.
In the past, much as today, Kenya has been a synonym with ‘safari’. However,
what I enjoyed much more were the colourful Maasai tribes; I entered their
huts, took photos of them while they were taking their cows to pasture over
highlands and disappearing in the clouds, I watched them while performing
their traditional adumu dance, jumping as high as possible in the air, while
their thick necklaces hovered mid-air like high collars. They were clad in
red robes draped around their bodies and decorated with multi-coloured
beads. Maasai are semi-nomadic people in the South of Kenya and Tanzania’s
North, they gather around large safari parks and attract tourists who like
their handicraft, their dances and tradition.
Mombasa with white sandy beaches and well organised safaris in the national
parks of Amboseli and Masai Mara make Kenya a popular destination for a
carefree exploration of Africa. But this is still not true Africa which
requires more effort to be discovered, going into the wilderness, the
African bush and meeting peoples who are not always friendly to white
people, going towards the splendid, but unforgiving nature.
Africa is still a big mystery that you have to fall in love with in order to
discover it slowly and surely.

September 1997

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