JUŽNA KOREJA – SOUTH KOREA – 한국

Palata na jezeru-A palace on the lake

Palata na jezeru-A palace on the lake

Panorama Seula-Panoramic view of Seoul

Panorama Seula-Panoramic view of Seoul

Stadion u Seulu-The Seoul World Cup Stadium

Stadion u Seulu-The Seoul World Cup Stadium

Tunel ispod granice izmedju dve Koreje-A tunnel under the border pass of two Koreas

Tunel ispod granice izmedju dve Koreje-A tunnel under the border pass of two Koreas

U korejskom restoranu-In a Korean restaurant

U korejskom restoranu-In a Korean restaurant

U narodnim nosnjama-National costumes

U narodnim nosnjama-National costumes

Zlatni Buda kraj planinske staze-A golden Buddha near a hiking trail

Zlatni Buda kraj planinske staze-A golden Buddha near a hiking trail

Ceremonija ispred palate Gyeongbokgung (Sreca koja sija)-A ceremony in front of the Gyeongbokgung Palace (Shining Happiness)

Ceremonija ispred palate Gyeongbokgung (Sreca koja sija)-A ceremony in front of the Gyeongbokgung Palace (Shining Happiness)

Korejska hrana-Korean food

Korejska hrana-Korean food

Stara tojota-An old Toyota car

Stara tojota-An old Toyota car

Ceremonijalni bubanj-A ceremonial drum

Ceremonijalni bubanj-A ceremonial drum

Narodni muzej Koreje-Naional Folk Museum of Korea

Narodni muzej Koreje-Naional Folk Museum of Korea

Osvetljeno drvece u glavnom gradu-Illuminated trees in the capital

Osvetljeno drvece u glavnom gradu-Illuminated trees in the capital

Sa vojnicima-With the soldiers

Sa vojnicima-With the soldiers

Ulaz u palatu Gyeongbokgung-Entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace

Ulaz u palatu Gyeongbokgung-Entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace

Ulicna pijaca u Seulu-Street market in Seoul

Ulicna pijaca u Seulu-Street market in Seoul

Unutrasnjost palate-Interior of the palace

Unutrasnjost palate-Interior of the palace

Redaktor ove knjige, teatrolog Jovan Ćirilov, dao mi je pre izvesnog vremena seriju filmova koje je režirao poznati korejski reditelj Kim Ki-duk. Estetika tih filmova, kao i suptilnost obrade savremenih tema iz korejskog života kroz tradicionalni pristup, bili su skoro nešto najlepše što sam doživeo na filmskom platnu. A video sam ogroman broj filmova; filmski festivali u nekim periodima mog života bili su mi druga kuća.

Ovu zemlju posetio sam kao član jedne privredne delegacije. Nikada pre, niti posle toga, nisam takvim povodom odlazio na put, ali to je bila prilika da odem u Koreju i doživim je na drugi način.

Glavni grad Seul je desetomilionska metropola u stalnoj ekspanziji, u kojoj je sve uređeno i bezbedno, i sve funkcioniše besprekorno. Nalazi se na reci Han, preko koje prelaze brojni mostovi i oko koje su smešteni tradicionalni hramovi. U gradu je sve veoma organizovano, u stilu visokorazvijenih zemalja Dalekog istoka. Nisam mogao da se otmem utisku da je grad, ipak, svega nekoliko koraka udaljen od Tokija, koji predstavlja svetski vrh tehnološkog razvoja i organizacije. Nezahvalno je porediti dve kulture i civilizacije koje su geografski tako blizu, a i tako bliske jedna drugoj, a, s druge strane, prema mišljenjima stručnjaka, toliko različite.

Zanimljivo je da u Koreji skoro uopšte nema japanskih automobila i obratno, iako su obe automobilske industrije zavladale svetom. Ni hrana nije ista, iako je veoma ukusna; služi se slično kao u Japanu, u puno malih posuda i, za razliku od japanske, veoma je ljuta. Ceremonijalno posluživanje hrane uvek prija i traje sve dok se iznose razna jela. Nešto bez čega se ne može zamisliti ni jedan obrok jeste kimči, blago kiseli kupus sa ljutom paprikom koji je sličan srpskom, a opet poseban. Svaki obrok bio je kao dugo očekivano zadovoljstvo jer je svaki različit i pun iznenađenja, koja se skoro i ne mogu opisati.

Vrlo neobičan turistički doživljaj bila je poseta granici sa Severnom Korejom, koja je dobro čuvana zbog čestih provokacija i pretnji sigurnosti. Pognutih glava prolazili smo dugim i veoma uzanim tunelima, prokopanim u kamenu pre mnogo godina, kroz koje je planirana invazija severnokorejske vojske. Međukorejski rat, u kome je dva i pô miliona ljudi izgubilo živote, veoma je tužan istorijski događaj, kada su velike sile jednu naciju podelile na 38. paraleli, i ta podela traje više od pola veka.

Otišao sam sa privrednicima i u Busan, veliki idustrijski centar na obodu Korejskog poluostrva. Posetio sam proizvodne pogone, koji me u drugim okolnostima nikada ne bi zanimali, ali ovde sam nemo posmatrao tehnološka čuda pravljenja mašina. Sledila je finalna prezentacija, na kojoj su, na ogromnom poligonu, bageri plesali valcer nestvarno mašući svojim gvozdenim viljuškama kroz vazduh kao nekim kosmičkim kracima, koji su se uvijali u ritmu valcera Na lepom plavom Dunavu. Prava futuristička scena. Kao što je, uostalom, i cela zemlja, u kojoj se duboko ukorenjeni duh tradicije prepliće sa  savremenom scenom.

Baš kao u filmovima Kim Ki-duk-a.

Novembar 2003.
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The editor of this book, theatrologist Jovan Ćirilov, gave me a while ago several films directed by a famous Korean director Kim Ki-duk. The aesthetics of these films, as well as the subtle way in which contemporary topics from everyday life in Korea were dealt with, through a traditional approach, were among the most beautiful cinematographic experiences I have ever had. And I have seen a huge number of films; various film festivals at certain times in my life were like a second home to me.

I visited this country as a member of an official business delegation. Never before or after did I go on a trip in such a way, but it was an opportunity to visit Korea and experience it in an entirely different way.

Seoul, the capital, is a metropolis with 10 million people and constantly growing, where everything is functioning perfectly and everywhere is safe. It is situated on the River Han which is criss-crossed by numerous bridges and around which there are many traditional temples. The city itself is organised perfectly, much like other capitals in highly developed Far East countries. I could not help but think that Seoul was only a ‘few steps away’ from Tokyo which remains at the top of modern technology and development in the world. It is unrewarding to compare the two cultures and civilisations which are so close to each other, and yet so different according to the experts.

It is interesting that there are almost no Japanese cars in Korea at all, and vice versa, even though both countries’ car industries rule the world. The food is not the same either, even though it is very tasty; it is served in a lot of small dishes, similar to Japanese way of serving food, but unlike the Japanese food it is very spicy. Ceremonial serving of the food is always pleasurable and it lasts until the last dish has been brought out. No meal can pass without kimchi, pickled cabbage with chilli pepper powder, similar to Serbian sauerkraut, and yet different. Every meal was like a long awaited pleasure and each was so different and full of surprises that I can hardly describe them.

A very unusual tourist experience was a visit to the North Korean border, which is guarded really well because of possible provocations and threats to security. With our heads bowed, we passed down narrow, very long corridors that were carved in stone long time ago for the purpose of a planned invasion by the North Korean army. The Korean War, in which 2.5 million lives were lost, is a very sad historical event when the world’s powers divided one country into two along the 38th Parallel. This division is lasting for more than half a century.

With our business delegation I visited Busan too, a big industrial centre at the tip of the Korean Peninsula. I visited manufacturing plants that would not interest me normally, but here I stood silently watching the miracles of machine making. The final presentation included diggers on a huge podium, where they danced a waltz, surreally waving through the air with their big metal forks resembling some weird cosmic rays twisting in the rhythm of the Blue Danube. A true futuristic scene. Much like the whole country is itself, where a deeply rooted sense of tradition intertwines with the modern.

Just like in the films by Kim Ki-duk.

November 2003

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