JORDAN – JORDAN – المملكة الأردنية الهاشمية

Petra

Petra

Prodavac suvenira-The souvenir vendor

Prodavac suvenira-The souvenir vendor

Putovanje kroz Jordan-A journey through Jordan

Putovanje kroz Jordan-A journey through Jordan

Abu Dervis dzamija u Amanu-Abu Darweesh Mosque in Amman

Abu Dervis dzamija u Amanu-Abu Darweesh Mosque in Amman

Al-Khazneh - The Treasury, Petra

Al-Khazneh – The Treasury, Petra

Anticki grad Gerasa i moderni Dzeras-Ancient city Gerasa and modern Jerash

Anticki grad Gerasa i moderni Dzeras-Ancient city Gerasa and modern Jerash

Mitska pustinja Vadi Ram-Mythic desert Wadi Rum

Mitska pustinja Vadi Ram-Mythic desert Wadi Rum

Put kroz Petru-Walking through Petra

Put kroz Petru-Walking through Petra

Mitska pustinja Vadi Ram-Mythic desert Wadi Rum

Mitska pustinja Vadi Ram-Mythic desert Wadi Rum

Al-Siq je glavni prolaz ka Petri-Narrow gorge al-Siq is the main entrance to Petra

Al-Siq je glavni prolaz ka Petri-Narrow gorge al-Siq is the main entrance to Petra

Deo Petre - A part of Petra

Deo Petre – A part of Petra

Deo Petre-A part of Petra

Deo Petre-A part of Petra

Mitska pustinja Vadi Ram - Mythic desert Wadi Rum

Mitska pustinja Vadi Ram – Mythic desert Wadi Rum

Petra-anticko kraljevstvo Nabatejaca-Petra-ancient kingdom of Nabateans

Petra-anticko kraljevstvo Nabatejaca-Petra-ancient kingdom of Nabateans

Pogled na rimsko pozoriste sa brda Kala-The Roman theatre from Qala hill

Pogled na rimsko pozoriste sa brda Kala-The Roman theatre from Qala hill

Stara tojota-An old Toyota car

Stara tojota-An old Toyota car

Kraljevina Jordan sigurno ima najlepšu kraljicu na svetu. Nurija od Jordana, koja u sebi objedinjuje neodoljivi šarm, diskretnu eleganciju, aktivnost savremene žene i humanitarne aktivnosti, ali i poziciju u arapskom svetu kome pripada. A kralj – voli motore.

Osim što ima lepu kraljicu, Jordan je, dakle, i lepa kraljevina. Relativno mala, ali na važnoj raskrsnici puteva i okružena mnogim zemljama. Od glavnog grada Amana, do krajnjeg juga zemlje, u Akabu, moze se stići za samo nekoliko sati i uskočiti u Crveno more. A može i u Mrtvo more, koje je na polovini ovog puta.

Na tom putu, koji sam prošao u starom žutom mercedesu, doživeo sam mnoge lepote ove zemlje. Pustinja Wadi Rum, ili Mesečeva pustinja u prevodu sa arapskog, jedna je od tih lepota. Ovde svi pričaju o Lorensu od Arabije tako uverljivo, kao da su ga lično poznavali, dok je on nekada jezdio ovim predelima i oslobađao Arabiju od Otomanskih Turaka.

Pustinja Vadi Ram bila je „veća od mašte“ kako je taj junak nazvao u svojoj pustolovnoj autobiografiji Sedam stubova mudrosti, prema čemu je kasnije nazvana impresivna kamena formacija u samoj pustinji. Neobična lepota te pustinje dolazu do izražaja u proleće, kada bude posuta ljubičastim cvetovima. Šetnja kroz pustinju i njene stenovite mesečeve predele, kao i vožnja starim džipovima, predstavljaju svojevrsne turističke atrakcije. Tu sam saznao da se tojota pravila još u Prvom svetskom ratu i da ovde ima dosta tih primeraka, što me je obradovalo kao ljubitelja starih vozila.

Sledeća i najveća, svetski poznata atrakcija na putu je Petra, koja na Uneskovoj listi zauzima mesto jednog od najdragocenijih kulturnih nasleđa čovečanstva. Nabatejci, koji su ovde živeli početkom nove ere, zaista su je tako sakrili da je čak ni Indijana Džouns u filmu nije lako pronašao. Nezaboravan je prolazak na konju kroz pukotinu između visokih stena, na čijem se kraju nalazi veoma prepoznatljiv i u steni uklesan ogroman ružičasti portal, koji se naziva Riznica. Tu već zastaje dah od lepote, a zatim se polako ulazi u ostatke grada koji je bio dobro sakriven i branjen. Zahvaljujući svom položaju, mogao je da kontroliše puteve karavana i tako se obogati. Po pravilu, Rimljani to nisu dopustili i zato ga je car Trajan pokorio i pretvorio u rimsku provinciju Arabiju. U Petri su sačuvani hramovi, grobnice, fasade, palate, amfiteatar. Sve je to uklesano u ružičasti kamen umesto da je sagrađeno, u svim stilovima toga vremena, što doprinosi arhitektonskoj posebnosti Petre.

Na kraju mog puta nalazio se Aman, glavni grad Hašemitske Kraljevine Jordan. Jedan egipatski vladar nazvao ga je Filadelfija, a taj naziv grada ostao je isti za vreme rimske i vizantijske vladavine. Delom je to moderan grad, delom arapski, a delom i antički zbog velikog broja iskopina u samom centru grada, među kojima su najvažniji veliko rimsko pozorište sa savršenom akustikom i Herkulov hram. Mnogo istorije na malom prostoru, ali i orijentalne avanture ako neko želi da se oseti Lorensom od Arabije.

Ipak, potrebno bi bilo posedovati bar deo njegovog avaturističkog šarma.

Mart 1998.
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The Kingdom of Jordan indisputably has the most beautiful queen. Nuria of Jordan possesses irresistible charm, discreet elegance, the outlook of a modern day woman, but is also involved in charitable activities and holds an important position in the Arab world to which she belongs. And as for the King – he likes motorcycles.

Apart from having a beautiful queen, Jordan is a beautiful kingdom itself. It is relatively small, but situated at an important crossroads and surrounded by many different countries. From the capital city, Amman, to the southernmost tip of the country in Aqaba, it takes only a few hours and at the end of that journey you can simply jump into the Red Sea! Or, you can jump into the Dead Sea which is half way on this journey.

I made this trip in an old yellow Mercedes and on the way I experienced many beauties of this country. Wadi Rum, or the Moon Desert in Arabic, is one of those beauties. Everyone here talks about Lawrence of Arabia, with such conviction, that you would think they knew him personally; long ago he rode on horseback through this region while liberating Arabia from the Ottoman Turks.

Wadi Rum Desert was ’greater than imagination’ as this famous character described it in his adventurous autobiography, The Seven Pillars of Wisdom. An impressive stone formation in this desert was later named after this autobiography. The unusual beauty of the desert comes to life in spring when it is covered in purple flowers. Trekking through the desert and its rocky moonlike landscapes, as well as driving around in old jeeps are special tourist attractions. That’s also where I found out that Toyota was manufactured here as early as at the time of the First World War, and that those vehicles are still around, which delighted me as a lover of old timers.

The next attraction on the way and the biggest one is Petra, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and proclaimed one of the most precious cultural properties of man’s cultural heritage. Nabateans, who lived here early in the new millennium, hid it really well, so that even Indiana Jones, in the adventure movie, could not find it easily. Riding on horseback through a crevice between high cliffs, at the end of which is a unique, monumental, pale pink portal carved into the rocks, called the Treasury, is unforgettable. This is where the splendour simply makes you gasp and then you slowly enter the remnants of the city which was so well concealed and fiercely defended. Owing to its position it was able to control the caravan routes and thus amass a fortune. As by a rule of thumb, the Romans would not tolerate that and Emperor Trajan conquered it and turned the country into a Roman Province of Arabia. Temples, tombs, facades, palaces and amphitheatre from that period have been preserved in Petra. The cut rock architecture makes Petra unique, as everything had been carved in the rocks instead of being built.

At the end of my journey was Amman, the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. One Egyptian ruler renamed it to Philadelphia and this name remained during Roman and Byzantine period. Partly it is a modern city, partly it is Arabic and partly it is Greco-Roman owing to a large number of archaeological sites in the city centre, the most important being the Roman theatre with perfect acoustcs and the Temple of Hercules. There is a lot of history in this small place, but also the oriental adventure if anyone wants to play Lawrence of Arabia.

Yet, you would have to possess at least a little bit of his adventurous charm.

March 1998

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