JAMAJKA – JAMAICA

Air Jamaica

Air Jamaica

Ispred muzeja Boba Marlija-In front of the Bob Marley's Museum

Ispred muzeja Boba Marlija-In front of the Bob Marley’s Museum

Pijaca Albert Dzordz u gradicu Folmut na severu zenlje-Albert George Market in Falmouth

Pijaca Albert Dzordz u gradicu Folmut na severu zenlje-Albert George Market in Falmouth

Plaza Montego Bej-Montego Bay beach

Plaza Montego Bej-Montego Bay beach

Pogled na glavni grad Kingston sa Strawberry Hill-a-A view of the capital Kingston from the Strawberry Hill

Pogled na glavni grad Kingston sa Strawberry Hill-a-A view of the capital Kingston from the Strawberry Hill

Radna soba Jana Fleminga-Ian Fleming's writing room

Radna soba Jana Fleminga-Ian Fleming’s writing room

Strawberry Hills Hotel

Strawberry Hills Hotel

U unutrasnjosti ostrva-Jamaica's countryside

U unutrasnjosti ostrva-Jamaica’s countryside

Unutrasnjost zemlje-In the interior of Jamaica

Unutrasnjost zemlje-In the interior of Jamaica

Vodopadi reke Dan-Dunn's River Falls

Vodopadi reke Dan-Dunn’s River Falls

Bondova plaza-James Bond beach

Bondova plaza-James Bond beach

Lendrover Boba Marlija u njegovom muzeju-Bob Marley's Landrover in his museum

Lendrover Boba Marlija u njegovom muzeju-Bob Marley’s Landrover in his museum

Radni sto Jana Fleminga-Ian Fleming's desk

Radni sto Jana Fleminga-Ian Fleming’s desk

Da li da počnem od Harija Belafontea, Boba Marlija ili Jana Fleminga? Svaki ovaj značajni lik obeležio je na svoj način ovu lepu ostrvsku zemlju. Svakog od njih tražio sam i našao kao što uvek činim: lutajući s jednog kraja ostrva na drugi. Harijeva Jamajka, svakako, više nije ona ista u koju je dolazio na jedrenjaku, kada je s tugom okretao glavu da ne vidi svoju devojku koju ostavlja u Kigstonu gradu, dok mu se srce cepa. Bob je bio realniji: “Trava, brate, ovde je zakon”. Jan je bio, čini se, izvan svega toga dok je u miru svoje vile na obali gradio proslavljeni lik čije je ime Bond, Džejms Bond.

Od Montego Beja, do glavnog grada Kingstona na drugom kraju Jamajke, put je vodio kroz raznolike predele ove zemlje. Bele peščane plaže, u rege ambijentu stalnih žurki na njima, odlikuju ovaj kraj ostrva oko gradića Montego Bej. Marihuana je ovde toliko uobičajena da vam prvi taksista odmah pokloni čitavu grančicu “za prvu pomoć”, iako je niste tražili. I, naravno, odmah ste braća, bez obzira na razliku u boji kože.

Jamajka je sigurnija zemlja nego što sam mogao da zamislim, iako deluje kao da svi u njoj zavijaju ogroman džoint u novinskoj hartiji, baš kao u jednom muzičkom spotu. Ljudi su srdačni i pristupačni, čak mnogo više od njihove braće u obližnjem Belizeu, ili na nekim drugim karipskim ostrvima, gde je stanovništvo sličnog mentaliteta. Jamajka je vlasnik svih prirodnih lepota, od dugih peščanih plaža, preko visoravni, tropskih džungli i vodopada, do planinskih venaca pod bujnom vegetacijom.

Izvesno vreme proveli smo u kući na imanju Zlatno oko (GoldenEye), koja je pripadala proslavljenom Janu Flemingu, a gde se, u prostranoj dnevnoj sobi, s pogledom na more, još nalazi njegov radni sto sa rukopisima i slikom čuvenog agenta 007. Nikada ne bih pretpostavio da je nastajao baš u ovom ambijentu, toliko drugačijem od onog u kome je delovao, mada su plaže u skoro svakom njegovom filmu bile obavezan dekor. Ovde, na proslavljevoj plaži James Bond Beach, snimane su sekvence filmova Živi i pusti druge da umru i Dr. No.

Preko venca Plavih planina dolazimo u ambijent hotelskog kompleksa koji se naziva Strawberry Hill, čiji je osnivač i vizionar bio Kris Blekvel, producent Boba Marlija i mnogih drugih pop zvezda. Baš kao što mu ime kaže, nalazi se na brdu odakle se, kao na dlanu, vidi glavni grad Kingston, kao sa oblaka i sa ivice infinity bazena s pogledom u nedogled. Mesto nirvane u kome je lepota beskrajna kao i pogled na udaljeni grad, koji se spaja sa morem.

Drvena kuća u karipskom stilu u Kingstonu, u kojoj je živeo Bob Marli, pretvorena je u muzej, sa stotinama njegovih zlatnih i platinskih ploča i nagrada, koje krase njene zidove. Tu su i tekstovi njegovih pesama, predmeti, svetloplavi otvoreni lendrover kojim je krstario svojm zemljom, u kojoj su ga obožavali. Bio je i ostao obožavan mnogo dalje, van koralnog oboda svoje Jamajke. Bio je idol čija vatra uvek plamti i podstiče njegovu braću širom sveta na ljubav i nešto više.  Could you be loved… ipak je ostalo da odzvanja u nama decenijama posle njegove smrti.

Ta večita nedoumica: da li smo sposobni da volimo i da budemo voljeni?

Septembar 2004.
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Shall I start with Harry Belafonte, Bob Marley or Ian Fleming? Each of these famous personalities has left their own mark on this beautiful island country. I searched for each of them as I always do, wandering up and down the island. Harry’s Jamaica is definitely not the same, the one which he visited on a sailing ship, when, with a heavy heart, he left his girl in Kingston Town, unable to look back. Bob was more of a realist: ‘Brother, weed rules around here.’ It seems that Ian was above all that, when in the tranquillity of his seaside villa he shaped the famous character whose name was Bond, James Bond.

From Montego Bay to Kingston, Jamaica’s capital, the road took me through a variety of this country’s scenery. The area around Montego Bay is known for its white sandy beaches with reggae parties that never stop. Marijuana is so commonly used here, that your first cab driver would give you a handful as a present, even if you did not ask for it, just as an ‘emergency supply’. And of course, you are immediately brothers, despite the different skin colour.

Jamaica is safer than I could imagine, even though it seems like everyone is rolling a giant joint in a newspaper, just like in a music video clip. People are warm-hearted and forthcoming, much more so than their brothers in the nearby Belize or on other Caribbean islands where people have a similar mentality. Jamaica is possessed of all natural gifts, from the long sandy beaches, through to plains, tropical jungles and waterfalls to mountain ranges covered with lush vegetation.

We spent some time in the house that used to belong to the renowned Ian Fleming, on the GoldenEye estate, where in a vast living room with sea view you can still find his desk with manuscripts and a photo of the famous Agent 007. I would never have guessed that his character was shaped here, in an environment so different from the one where he operated, even though a beach has always been an integral part of all his movies. The scenes from Live and Let Die and Dr. No were shot here on the famous James Bond Beach.

A ride across the Blue Mountains leads us to the Strawberry Hill hotel complex, envisioned and founded by Chris Blackwell, the producer of Bob Marley and many other pop stars. As its name aptly says, it is sat on a hill from which you see Kingston like on the palm of your hand, just like you are sitting on a cloud, whereas you are leaning against the edge of the infinity pool and looking into the distance with no end. It’s the place for nirvana, where beauty is infinite as much as the view of the city which merges with the sea.

Bob Marley’s house in Kingston, built out of wood in the Caribbean style, has been turned into a museum, with hundreds of his golden and platinum records and awards adorning its walls. You can also see his lyrics, various belongings and a light blue cabrio Land Rover that he used to cruise around his country where he was adored. He was and still is worshipped in many places far away from the coral reefs of Jamaica. He was an idol bearing the flame of love and understanding amongst his brothers and a constant source of inspiration. Could you be loved…still strikes a chord with all of us even decades after his death.

This eternal question: are we capable of giving and receiving love?

September 2004

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