IZRAEL – ISRAEL

Atmosfera na Zidu placa-The Western Wall ambiance

Atmosfera na Zidu placa-The Western Wall ambiance

Damascus Gate

Damascus Gate

Jedna od pecina u kojoj su pronadjeni Kumranski rukopisi-A cave where Qumran scrolls were found

Jedna od pecina u kojoj su pronadjeni Kumranski rukopisi-A cave where Qumran scrolls were found

U Mrtvom moru-In the Dead Sea

U Mrtvom moru-In the Dead Sea

Ruska crkva Marije Magdalene u Istocnom Jerusalimu-The Russian Church of Maria Magdalene in East Jerusalem

Ruska crkva Marije Magdalene u Istocnom Jerusalimu-The Russian Church of Maria Magdalene in East Jerusalem

Pogled na Tel Aviv iz Jafe-A view of Tel Aviv from Jaffa

Pogled na Tel Aviv iz Jafe-A view of Tel Aviv from Jaffa

Zid placa-muski i zenski deo-The Western Wall-separate segments for men and women

Zid placa-muski i zenski deo-The Western Wall-separate segments for men and women

Zidine Jerusalima-Jerusalem walls

Zidine Jerusalima-Jerusalem walls

Zlatna kupola ili Omarova dzamija u Jerusalimu-The Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem

Zlatna kupola ili Omarova dzamija u Jerusalimu-The Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem

Bahai vrtovi u Haifi-Bahai Gardens in Haifa

Bahai vrtovi u Haifi-Bahai Gardens in Haifa

Crkva Svetog Groba u Jerusalimu- The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

Crkva Svetog Groba u Jerusalimu- The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

Ulazak u Hristovu grobnicu-The entrance to the tomb of Jesus Christ

Ulazak u Hristovu grobnicu-The entrance to the tomb of Jesus Christ

Cuvar svetog mesta-Guardian of a holy place

Cuvar svetog mesta-Guardian of a holy place

Grobnica kralja Davida-King David's Tomb

Grobnica kralja Davida-King David’s Tomb

Izraelski vojnici-Israeli soldiers

Izraelski vojnici-Israeli soldiers

Jafa-jedna od najstarijih luka na svetu

Jafa-jedna od najstarijih luka na svetu

Jedinstvo vera-dzamije i crkve-The unity in faith-the mosques and the churches

Jedinstvo vera-dzamije i crkve-The unity in faith-the mosques and the churches

Pogled na Jerusalim sa Maslinove gore - A view of Jerusalem from Mt Olives

Pogled na Jerusalim sa Maslinove gore – A view of Jerusalem from Mt Olives

U Crkvi Svetog groba-In the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

U Crkvi Svetog groba-In the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Ulica Put suza u starom Jerusalimu-Via Dolorosa Street in Old Jerusalem

Ulica Put suza u starom Jerusalimu-Via Dolorosa Street in Old Jerusalem

Vojnicka sreca na Mrtvom moru-Soldiers' happiness at the Dead Sea

Vojnicka sreca na Mrtvom moru-Soldiers’ happiness at the Dead Sea

Zlatna kupola ili Omarova dzamija u Jerusalimu-The Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem

Zlatna kupola ili Omarova dzamija u Jerusalimu-The Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem

Pokušao sam da prođem celim putem Hristovog stradanja, ali sam negde usput izgubio redosled i odustao. Nisam ja za hadžiju, iako sam nekoliko puta boravio u svetom gradu Jerusalimu. Dok sam u detinjstvu išao u školu ulicama koje su nosile imena slavnih srpskih hadžija, zamišljao sam šta znači ići u Svetu zemlju o kojoj su mi kao malom pričali neki ljudi. Njima su, opet, pričali o tome neki drugi, koji su tamo bili i stekli to zvanje. Bila je to za mene tada velika misterija, a produbljivala se posle svakog boravka u Izraelu. Preplitanje istorije nesrećnih naroda na toj teritoriji, koju su mnogi smatrali svojom, izaziva osećanja u kojima se mešaju istorijske činjenice sa indoktrinacjom i predrasudama.

Pogled sa Maslinove gore na Jerusalim je najlepša biblijska scena koja se može zamisliti, posebno pri zalasku sunca, kada se zraci odbijaju od zlatne Kupole na steni. Džamija, sinagoga ili hram, ovde je svejedno, jer isprepletena istorija ovih naroda neopterećenom posetiocu daje svu slobodu uživanja u lepoti zamišljenih biblijskih scena. Reke vernika prelaze put Hristovog stradanja uskim jerusalimskim ulicama do crkve Svetog groba, gde se, u najvećoj gužvi, probijaju do skromne grobnice koju uvek čuva jedan pravoslavni sveštenik veoma niskog rasta. Pravoslavni su došli u Svetu zemlju pre katolika i tako zauzeli veći broj svetih mesta.

Lutao sam ovom nevelikom zemljom čitavom njenom dužinom: od Haife na severu, do Eilata na jugu, preko Nazareta i Galilejskog jezera do Mrtvog mora i Zapadne obale. Želeo sam da neko vreme provedem radeći u kibucu i tako upoznam „socijalizam jevrejskog tipa“, ali nisam ostvario tu želju. Umesto toga, odabrao sam da na svoj način otkrivam i upoznajem sveta mesta, da satina posmatram Zid plača pokušavajuči da otkrijem smisao molitvi, da lebdim na površini Mrtvog mora dok posmatram suprotnu obalu, koja pripada Jordanu, da otkrivam nove Kumranske rukopise u svojoj glavi. Svako sveto mesto ostavilo je u meni svoj trag, a ono, koje nije sveto, ili je na dobrom putu da to postane, bilo mi je saveznik u otkrivanju novih lepota ovih prostora. Ipak, vremena nikada nije dovoljno da se sve upozna.

Plaže modernog Tel Aviva i nadomak njega romantična Jafa, cvetni vrtovi priobalnog planinskog venca Karmel kod Haife, Masada u Judejskoj pustinji, Eilat na severu Crvenog mora – Izrael je prepun mesta koja treba otkrivati. Sveti grad Jerusalim je ipak istorijska kruna ovog prostora, čiji su svaki pedalj sebično osvajale mnoge vere i koncesije, koje polažu pravo na neki njegov deo. Vekovima su se gurali i krišom međusobno oduzimali jedni drugima kamen koji bi označavao njihovu teritoriju, njihov sveti životni prostor sa duhovima predaka. Danas je to zvanično jevrejska drzava, ponovo iznikla na svojoj zemlji posle dve hiljade godina, ali i prostor Palestinaca koji u ovakvom suživotu traže svoje mesto pod suncem koje im pripada.

Od njihovog međusobnog sporazuma, nažalost, još nema ni traga.

Mart 1993.

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I attempted to go all the way down the route of Christ’s Calvary, but somewhere along the way I lost the correct itinerary and gave up. I am not meant to be a pilgrim, even though I visited the Holy City of Jerusalem several times. As a child, on my way to school, I would pass the streets bearing the names of famous Serbian pilgrims (hadji), and I imagined what it would be like to go to the Holy Land that some people used to tell me about. They were also told about it by some other people who actually carried out the pilgrimage and received the ‘hadji’ title. It was a big mystery for me at the time, but it got only bigger and deeper after each stay in Israel. The overlapping history of several unfortunate nations who all considered Israel their own, brings about mixed feelings which combine historical facts with indoctrination and prejudice.

The view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives renders the most beautiful Biblical scene that you can imagine, especially at sunset when the sun rays are reflected off the golden Dome of the Rock. A mosque, a synagogue or a temple, it does not matter, to an unencumbered visitor the intertwining history of these peoples provides a wealth of opportunities to enjoy the beauty of imagined Biblical scenes. Masses of pilgrims follow the route of Christ’s Cavalry, flowing down the narrow streets of Jerusalem to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in front of which excessive crowds of people jostle to enter the modest tomb guarded by a short Orthodox priest. The Orthodox Christians had arrived in the Holy Land before the Catholics and therefore occupy a higher number of sacred sites.

I wandered up and down this country, which is not very big, from Haifa in the North to Eilat in the South, from Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea and the West coast. I wanted to spend some time in a Kibbutz, to get to know the ‘socialism of the Jewish variety’, but I did not fulfil that wish. Instead, I chose to discover and learn about the sacred places in my own way, to observe the Western Wall for hours trying to comprehend the meaning of prayers, to float on the surface of the Dead Sea while watching the opposite shore which belongs to Jordan, to discover new Qumran scrolls in my head….Every sacred site left a trace in my soul, and those sites that were not sacred or were on the way of becoming such, were still good allies in discovering yet new splendorous of this region. But there is never enough time to get to know everything.

The beaches of modern Tel Aviv and the romantic Jaffa nearby, the flower gardens of the coastal mountain range Carmel near Haifa, Masada in the Judean Desert, Eilat at northern tip of the Red Sea – Israel is bursting with sites to be seen and discovered. However, the holy city of Jerusalem is the country’s historical crown jewel which was selfishly occupied foot by foot, by various faiths and their proponents, who all claimed some of its parts as their own. They jostled with each other for centuries, furtively stealing the stone which demarked the boundaries between their territories, their sacred grounds adorned with their ancestors’ spirits. Today, this is officially the Jewish state, which has reclaimed its space after 2000 years, but it is also the territory of the Palestinians, who seek, in this co-habitation, their deserved place under the sun.

Unfortunately, there is still no sight of a compromise between them.

March 1993

 

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