ISLAND – ICELAND – ÍSLAND

Frikirkjan i Rejkjavik-The Free Church in Reykjavik

Frikirkjan i Rejkjavik-The Free Church in Reykjavik

Islandski gejziri-Geysirs of Iceland

Islandski gejziri-Geysirs of Iceland

Jezero u centru Rejkjavika-Lake Tjornin in the centre of Reykjavik

Jezero u centru Rejkjavika-Lake Tjornin in the centre of Reykjavik

Jezero u krateru vulkana Keridj-Volcano Keridj crater lake

Jezero u krateru vulkana Keridj-Volcano Keridj crater lake

Luteranska crkva-Hallgrimskirkja je najveca u zemlji-Luteran Church Hallgrimskirkja is the biggest one in the country

Luteranska crkva-Hallgrimskirkja je najveca u zemlji-Luteran Church Hallgrimskirkja is the biggest one in the country

Mali gejzir-A little geysir

Mali gejzir-A little geysir

Termalna banja Plava laguna-The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa

Termalna banja Plava laguna-The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa

U glavnom gradu-In the capital

U glavnom gradu-In the capital

Zlatni vodopad u kanjonu reke Hvita-Gullfoss or Golden Fall in the Hvita River

Zlatni vodopad u kanjonu reke Hvita-Gullfoss or Golden Fall in the Hvita River

Od nas geografski udaljena i bliža Severnom polu nego Evropi kojoj pripada, ova zemlja nam se najednom približila dok je ispuštala gust vulkanski dim iz svog vulkana, koji je zatamnio nebo nad Evropom. Avioni su se prizemljili na neko vreme, a ljudi postali svesni toga gde je Island i šta može da nam napravi. Kad bi se malo više naljutio, uveo bi nas, možda, u novo ledeno doba. Za sada nam je samo poslao opomenu.

Ovo je mirna zemlja, u kojoj se, naizgled, ništa ne događa. Ljudi žive u nekom ledenom miru, čak je i američka ambasada obična kuća u ulici, bez  posebnog obezbeđenja.

Glavni grad Rejkjavik odaje utisak smrznute beživotne kasabe, gde su jastozi drugačijeg ukusa, a usamljenost beskrajna. Ogromna luteranska katedrala Hallgrimskirkja na brdu je moderna građevina u obliku ogromnih orgulja, ali zanemela u svojoj praznini. Ispred nje je veliki spomenik čoveku, koji se zove Leifr Eiricsson i koji je otplovio u Ameriku pet stotina godina pre Kolumba i tamo, u Nju Faundlendu u Kanadi, osnovao prvu nordijsku naseobinu. Nebo iznad grada je najčešće sivo, a zemlja pusta kao tundra.

Pokazivali su nam negde jednu zamišljenu pukotinu, koja deli islandsku tektonsku ploču na evropski i američki deo. Tu se, dakle, razdvaja svet, i fizički i mentalno. Samo su galebovi zajednički, kao i veliki Zlatni vodopad. Ne znam tačno kome kopnu pripadaju vulkani, ali to više nije važno, jer će ih svojim dimom spojiti, baš kao što su ovih dana pokušali. Island tako, bar neko vreme, postaje središte sveta. Doduše, pričalo se o njemu i onda kad je doživeo finansijski krah, a čijim su stopama potom krenule i neke druge evropske zemlje.

Kažu da je pecanje u islandskim rekama poseban, ali i neverovatno skup doživljaj. Plovidba na kitolovcu „Mobi Dik“ takođe je izuzetan doživljaj, pod uslovom da, naravno, ugledate samog kita, jednog od mnogih vrsta koje žive u ovim hladnim morima.

Kad je, međutim, o vodama reč, termalna sumporna jezera na Islandu najlepši su doživljaj, a po lepoti to je prizor jedinstven u svetu. Smeštena na vulkanskom pesku i u istom takvom okruženju, ta jezerca čine banjski kompleks sa najlepšom tirkizno-metalnom bojom koja se može zamisliti. Ulazak iz spoljašnje hladnoće u vrelu vodu koja isparava, na mekano peščano tle koje se ugiba pod nogama, predstavlja poseban doživljaj, koji vas uvodi u blaženstvo iz koga ne želite da izađete. Ljudske siluete promiču u nejasnoj izmaglici sumpornih isparenja kao tajanstveni zombiji, upravo izašli iz nekog podzemnog carstva. Samo se povremo čuje neki gasni mehur koji izbije is dubine i tako celokupnoj atmosferi dâ neki danteovski ugođaj. Takav je geotermalni kompleks i banja Plava laguna nedaleko od Rejkjavika.

Na lepoti bi joj mogle pozavideti sve plave lagune toplih južnih mora.

Septembar 2003.
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Geographically remote from Europe to which it belongs and closer to the North Pole, this country all of a sudden became closer to us, when its volcano started spewing thick volcanic ash smoke which darkened the European skies. Planes were grounded for a while and people became aware of where Iceland was and what it could do. If the volcano got angrier, it could bring another Ice Age upon us. For now, it was only a warning.

This is a peaceful country where, apparently, nothing goes on. People live in some sort of ice tranquility, even the American Embassy is an ordinary house without extra security. Reykjavik, the capital, seems to be a lifeless, frozen Kasbah, where lobster tastes different and loneliness seems infinite. A vast Church of Hallgrimur (Hallgrimskirkja) atop a hill is a modern building shaped like a gigantic music organ, mute in its emptiness. In front of it is a big monument to Leifr Eiricsson a man who sailed to the New World 500 years before Columbus and there, in New Foundland in Canada, started a first Nordic settlement. The skies above Reykjavik are mostly grey and the land is empty like a wasteland or tundra.

We were shown an imaginary fault in the tectonic plate which separates it into the European and American plate. So this is where the separation of the world occurs, both mental and physical. Only the seagulls are common or the huge Golden Falls. I don’t know exactly to which mainland the volcanoes belong, but it is not really important as they will bring all the land together with their smoke, just as they have tried these days. So Iceland, at least for a while, becomes the center of the world. However, Iceland was also the center of attention during its financial crash, and was soon followed by some other European countries.

It is said that fishing in Iceland’s rivers is a special, although very expensive experience. Sailing on a whaling ship ‘Moby Dick’ is also a spectacular experience, provided, of course, that you see a whale, one of its many species that inhabit these cold seas. Speaking about water, thermal, sulfur lakes in Iceland are exceptional and with their outstanding natural beauty make a unique phenomenon. Situated in volcanic sand which surrounds them, these lakes of the most beautiful turquoise metallic blue color that you can imagine form a spa complex. Getting into the hot steamy water from the outside cold, stepping on to the soft sand surface which moves beneath your feet, leads  you into a blissful experience that you do not want to leave. People’s silhouettes move through the haze of steamy  sulfur fog, appearing like mystical zombies just out of an underground world. Only occasionally a sulfuric bubble makes a noise creating an atmosphere reminiscent of Dante’s hell. This is what it is like in the spa and geothermal complex Blue Lagoon, not far from Reykjavik.

All the blue lagoons of the Southern Seas can be jealous of its beauty.

September 2003

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