IRSKA – IRELAND – ÉIRE

Bivsi zatvor u predgradju glavnog grada-The former prison Kilmainham Gaol

Bivsi zatvor u predgradju glavnog grada-The former prison Kilmainham Gaol

Hristova crkva u Dablinu-Christ Church in Dublin

Hristova crkva u Dablinu-Christ Church in Dublin

Jedan od Dablinskih pabova-One of Dublin's pubs

Jedan od Dablinskih pabova-One of Dublin’s pubs

Malahide Castle

Malahide Castle

Ulica Dejm u centru Dablina-Dame Street in the centre of Dublin

Ulica Dejm u centru Dablina-Dame Street in the centre of Dublin

Triniti Koledz u Dablinu-Trinity College in Dublin

Triniti Koledz u Dablinu-Trinity College in Dublin

O'Brajanova kula na litici-O'Brien's Tower on the cliff

O’Brajanova kula na litici-O’Brien’s Tower on the cliff

Moherske litice na zapadnoj obali-Cliffs of Moher on the West Coast

Moherske litice na zapadnoj obali-Cliffs of Moher on the West Coast

Zamak Dromoland-Dromoland Castle

Zamak Dromoland-Dromoland Castle

Zgrada u centru Dablina-A building in the central Dublin

Zgrada u centru Dablina-A building in the central Dublin

Zid sa poznatim likovima-Wall of Fame

Zid sa poznatim likovima-Wall of Fame

Ljudi uglavnom imaju različite povode i razloge za odlazak u neku zemlju. Osim velikog interesovanja koje sam oduvek imao za Irsku, povod odlaska u nju bio je poseta jednom od najvećih proizvodnih kompleksa u Evropi nečega što bih mogao nazvati svojim sredstvom za rad. To su silikonski implantati, a mesto u kome se kompleks nalazi jeste gradić Arklou, nadomak Dablina, glavnog grada Irske. Zajedno sa svojim školskim drugom Đorđem Miljkovićem, koji je u to vreme bio zastupnik kompanije Allergan, posetio sam ovaj proizvodni pogon.  Jedan deo ženske populacije sigurno bi voleo da ga vidi i otkrije gde se stvara deo njihovih iluzija. Možda se posle toga ipak ne bi odlučile na taj sudbonosni korak u životu.

Naše putovanje od Belfasta u Severnoj Irskoj, koja pripada Englezima, do Dablina, odvijalo se putevima koji su vodili kroz zelena prostranstva zemlje kojoj je ova boja jedan od nacionalnih simbola. U Irskoj je zaista sve zeleno, jer joj to omogućava vlažna atlantska klima. Pivo je nešto drugačije boje i to je, rekao bih, drugi nacionalni simbol i ponos ove zemlje. Ne samo Guinness, kao jedno od najpoznatijih u svetu, ili Kilkenny, već i druge nebrojene vrste piva koje se često prave u malim manufakturama i za lokalnu upotrebu.  Reklo bi se – simbolično, kao da pijete mleko, takvo je blaženstvo ukusa. Ispija se u meri koju Irci nazivaju pinta, i to u neograničenim količinama, naročito vikendom, kad ulice gradova postaju poprišta nekontrolisanog pijanstva. Ali, i to je deo lokalnog folklora zemlje u kojoj se taj običaj smatra tradicijom.

Smešten duž obala reke Lifi, Dablin su najpre naselili Vikinzi, a potom su Englezi vladali zemljom oko sedam stotina pedeset godina, sve dok 1916. godine nije izbio Uskršnji ustanak, kada je Irska republikanska armija (IRA) prvi put pribegla oružanom nasilju. Od tada neprestano slušamo o njoj, kao o pokretu za oslobođenje od jedne bliske, ali ipak tuđe sile, kao što je Velika Britanija.

Današnji Dablin je ponosan na činjenicu što su četiri pisca, dobitnika Nobelobe nagrade, ovde rođeni. Peti, i po njima najznačajniji, Džejms Džojs nije dobio to prestižno priznanje, ali se zato njegov život i stvaralaštvo mogu propratiti u istoimenom centru, kao i u Muzeju dablinskih pisaca, u kome se nalaze portreti i dela Jejtsa, Šoa, Beketa i drugih čuvenih pisaca iz tog grada. Džonatan Svift je sahranjen u katedrali Svetog Patrika, koji je irski nacionalni svetac i čiji se praznik, Dan svetog Patrika, slavi ne samo u Irskoj već svuda gde žive predstavnici te nacije rasuti širom sveta. Vreme užasnog siromaštva u ovoj zemlji, do pre stotinak godina, dovelo je do talasa raseljevanja Iraca, najviše u SAD gde danas čine ugledan deo stanovništva koje je stvaralo ovu zemlju.

Moja prijateljica Elizabeta provela je deo svog života na malom ostrvu Inišman na zapadnoj obali Irske, koje broji samo nekoliko stotina stanovnika. Kao u kultnom filmu Rajanova kći, osetila je duh tog ostrvskog naroda, koji je često veoma specifičan, nastajao u posebnim uslovima u kojima kišni oblaci zamračuju većinu njihovog vremena. Želeo bih da i sam odem na to ostrvo, jedno od najzapadnijih u Evropi, ali i da na njegovim putevima ugledam scenu iz drugog kultnog filma o Irskoj. To je ružičasti taksi iz istoimenog filma, kao kontrast beskrajnom zelenilu ove zemlje, kao zračak optimizma na Dan svetog Patrika, uz zvuke stare keltske muzike, koja dopire iz srednjovekovnih zamkova na obali.

Septembar 2007.
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People usually have different reasons for visiting a country. Apart from the great interest I have always had for Ireland, I also wanted to visit the largest European manufacturing complex of an object that I consider my work tool – silicone implants. The complex is based in the small town of Arklow, not far from the country’s capital Dublin. I visited together with my school friend Đorđe Miljković who was at the time a representative for Allergan. I am sure that part of the female population would like to visit too and see where and how the illusion is created. Maybe after that they would not decide to take the fateful step.

Our journey to Dublin, from Belfast in Northern Ireland which belongs to the English, took us across vast green spaces, and I thought that green colour was rightly the national colour of Ireland. In Ireland everything is really green, owing to the humid Atlantic climate. Beer is a slightly different colour and I would say that it is another symbol and pride of this country. And not only Guinness, one of the most famous beers in the world, or Kilkenny, but also countless other brews that are manufactured locally. It is almost like you are drinking milk, it could be said, – the taste is so smooth and blissful. The beer is served in pints, and consumed in unlimited quantities, especially at weekends when streets are besieged with scenes of uncontrolled drunkenness. But that is part of the local folklore and is also considered a tradition here.

Situated along the banks of river Liffey, Dublin was first inhabited by the Vikings and then it was ruled by the English for 750 years, until 1916 when the Easter uprising broke out and the IRA (Irish Republican Army) took up arms for the first time. Since that time we hear a lot about the IRA, as they fight for liberation from a close, yet foreign power such as Great Britain.

Contemporary Dublin is proud of the fact that four writers, Nobel Prize winners, were born there. The fifth, and according to them the most important one, James Joyce, did not get that prestigious  award, but his life and work can be followed in a Centre bearing his name, where you can also see the portraits of Yates, Show, Beckett and other famous writers from this city. Jonathan Swift was buried in St. Patrick’s Cathedral, named after St. Patrick, the Irish patron saint, whose day – St. Patrick’s Day – is celebrated not only in Ireland, but around the world wherever Irish people are. Until a hundred years ago Ireland suffered from the terrible poverty which led to massive migration of Irish people, mostly to the US, where they are respected today as one of the founding nations of this country.

My friend Elizabeth spent part of her life on a small island of Inishmaan on the West coast of Ireland. It has only a couple of hundred inhabitants. Like in a cult film – Ryan’s daughter, she could experience the spirit of these insular people, which is very peculiar, developed over a long time under the influence of a perpetually rainy, clouded sky. I would love to see that island myself, as it is at the Westernmost point of Europe, but on its little roads I would like to see a scene from another cult film. And that is the pink taxi, from the film bearing the same name, its colour in contrast to the endless green of this country, appearing like a little ray of hope and optimism on St. Patrick’s day, accompanied by the sounds of old Celtic music coming from medieval castles on the shore.

September 2007

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