IRAN – IRAN – جمهوری اسلامی ایران

Dvoglavi konj u Persepolju-Double-headed horse in Persepolis

Dvoglavi konj u Persepolju-Double-headed horse in Persepolis

Grobnica Sadija-jednog od najpoznatijih pesnika-Saadi's mausoleum in Shiraz

Grobnica Sadija-jednog od najpoznatijih pesnika-Saadi’s mausoleum in Shiraz

Istorijski persijski vrt Eram u Shirazu-Eram, a historical Persian garden in Shiraz

Istorijski persijski vrt Eram u Shirazu-Eram, a historical Persian garden in Shiraz

Jermenska crkva u Isfahanu-Armenian church in Isfahan

Jermenska crkva u Isfahanu-Armenian church in Isfahan

Mauzolej Shah Cerah u Shirazu-Shah-e-Cheragh Mosque in Shiraz

Mauzolej Shah Cerah u Shirazu-Shah-e-Cheragh Mosque in Shiraz

Naks-e Dzahan ili Imamov trg u Isfahanu-jedan od najvecih na svetu-Naghsh-e Jahan Square or Imam Square is one of the biggest in the world

Naks-e Dzahan ili Imamov trg u Isfahanu-jedan od najvecih na svetu-Naghsh-e Jahan Square or Imam Square is one of the biggest in the world

Persepolj-ostatak Persijskog carstva-Persepolis-the remains of the Persian Empire

Persepolj-ostatak Persijskog carstva-Persepolis-the remains of the Persian Empire

Poznati most sa 33 luka u Isfahanu -Bridge of 33 Arches over Zayandeh River in Isfahan

Poznati most sa 33 luka u Isfahanu -Bridge of 33 Arches over Zayandeh River in Isfahan

Sluzenje caja-Serving tea

Sluzenje caja-Serving tea

Uzivanje na vidikovcu s pogledom na Siraz-A relaxing afternoon at a vantage point overlooking Shiraz

Uzivanje na vidikovcu s pogledom na Siraz-A relaxing afternoon at a vantage point overlooking Shiraz

Iranski kafe-Iranian cafe

Iranski kafe-Iranian cafe

Lepota unutrasnjosti iranskih dzamija-Beauty of the interior of Iranian mosques

Lepota unutrasnjosti iranskih dzamija-Beauty of the interior of Iranian mosques

Molitva u dzamiji-Preyer in a mosque

Molitva u dzamiji-Preyer in a mosque

Ostaci hrama Zaratustre-Ancient Zoroastrian Temple

Ostaci hrama Zaratustre-Ancient Zoroastrian Temple

Palata sa cetrdeset stubova u Isfahanu-Chehel Sotoun Palace with 40 columns in Isfahan

Palata sa cetrdeset stubova u Isfahanu-Chehel Sotoun Palace with 40 columns in Isfahan

Persepolj-ostatak Persijskog carstva-Persepolis-remains of the Persian Empire

Persepolj-ostatak Persijskog carstva-Persepolis-remains of the Persian Empire

Srecna porodica-A happy family

Srecna porodica-A happy family

Unutrasnjost dzamije u Shirazu-mozaik od stakla-Embellishments within the Mosque in Shiraz

Unutrasnjost dzamije u Shirazu-mozaik od stakla-Embellishments within the Mosque in Shiraz

Zene i deca Irana-Women and children of Iran

Zene i deca Irana-Women and children of Iran

Dve hiljade i pet stotina godina persijske kulture ovde se oseća na svakom koraku, od jednostavne komunikacije sa običnim svetom, do učenih ljudi, kakav je bio moj vozač u Širazu: penzionisani profesor engleskog jezika. Vozio me je do ostataka Persepolja, drevne prestonice Persijskog carstva, u svom ogromnom starom ševroletu, zaostalom iz nekih prošlih, šahovih vremena. Pripovedao mi je usput davnu i skoriju istoriju ove zemlje, od velikog osvajača Darija Prvog i njegovih borbi sa večitim protivnikom, Rimskim carstvom, preko persijskih šahova, do ajatolaha. Sećam se da je moj otac, iz samo njemu znanih razloga, veoma voleo poslednjeg šaha Rezu Pahlavija, a možda mu se, jednostavno, dopadala činjenica da je reč o šahu zato što je voleo igru poznatu pod tim nazivom.

Proslava dva i pô milenijuma ove zemlje u Teheranu ostavila je takođe veliki utisak na mene, kao i na celu moju porodicu. Svi smo na svoj način voleli šaha i bilo nam je nekako žao kad je otišao sa vlasti, tako da smo nastavili da pratimo njegov život, kao i život njegove porodice u izgnanstvu.

Čovek koji je podstakao moju želju da odem u ovu zemlju je Naghi Naghachian, uspešan arhitekta, Iranac, koji koji živi u Nemačkoj i koji se jednog dana 2001. godine, bez ikakve preporuke, pojavio na vratima moje ordinacije sa željom da izgleda mlađe. Tu je počelo naše prijateljstvo, kada sam prvi put osetio veliku naklonost ka ovom narodu. Iako je pobegao od sistema, on je obožavao svoju kulturu i dugo i glasno recitovao najpoznatije iranske pesnike, Hafeza i Sadija. Godinu dana kasnije, pored njihovih grobnica u Širazu, shvatio sam da su Iranci narod koji obožava svoje pesnike i recituje njihove stihove u svakoj prilici, uglavnom bez vina, koje je sastavni deo iranske poezije, ali sa puno strasti, očekujući od nje podstrek za životom i ljubavlju.

Velika je ovo zemlja u svakom pogledu, u kojoj sve miriše na ruže i ima ukus šafrana. Možda smo navikli da njene ljude vidimo u podstaknutim demonstracijama kako pale izraelske zastave, ali prosečni Iranci, međutim, žive u bliskim odnosima sa svojim komšijama, bez obzira na to da li je reč o Jevrejima, hrišćanima ili nekim drugim nemuslimanima. Verska tolerancija ovde je vekovima nepisani zakon. Nisam mogao ni da zamislim da postoji sinagoga u Isfahanu, koju sam posetio, kao i jermensku crkvu. I Zaratustra je ovde propovedao svoju religiju, najstariju na ovim prostorima, a hram te religje i dalje postoji, kao i manji broj sledbenika. Sve vere su ovde poštovane i svakome je dopušteno da bude vernik svoje crkve. Zar takav narod može biti pretnja svetskom miru i poretku?

Glavni grad, Teheran, ima odlike savremene metropole, uz sve ono tradicionalno što čuva u sebi, ali stara prestonica Isfahan je pravi persijski dragulj. Džamije kobaltnih kupola i finoća i preciznost izrade njihovih enterijera, pored džamija u Buhari i Samarkandu, predstavljaju najlepše primere islamske arhitekture na tim prostorima. Neke od njih bile su još oštećene od iračkih granata iz poslednjeg rata između te dve zemlje. Šiiti i suniti nikada neće naći zajednički jezik koji bi ih odveo ka stabilnom miru. A samo malo je spornog iz života proroka Muhameda što je dovelo to trajnog raskola u muslimanskoj zajednici.

Za nas „nevernike“ to je možda malo, a za njih „pravoverne“ dovoljno za večiti sukob.

Septembar 2001.
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Two and a half thousand years of Persian culture is felt around here at every moment, from the simple communication with common people through to those learned ones, such as my driver in Shiraz, a retired professor of English. He drove me to the remains of Persepolis, the ancient capital of the Persian Empire,  in his huge old Chevrolet, a relic from a bygone era, probably from the times of the Shah. On the way, he recounted to me this country’s ancient history as well as contemporary one, from Darius the First and his perpetual fight against the archenemy – the Roman Empire, through to Persian Shahs and Ayattolahs. I remember that my father had loved the last Shah, Reza Pahlavi, for reasons known only to him, or perhaps he just liked the sound of his title ‘shah’ which in Serbian means ‘chess’, his favourite game.

The celebration of two and a half millenium of history of this country, in Tehran, has made a lasting impression on me and my entire family. All of us had liked the Shah in their own way and we were a bit sorry when he lost power, so we continued to keep up to date with his life and family in exile.

The person that inspired me to visit this country was Naghi Naghachian, a successful Iranian architect who lives in Germany and who turned up announced and with no recommendation at the door of my clinic, one day in 2001. He wanted to look younger. That is how our friendship started and when, for the first time, I felt great affinity towards these people. Even though he left the country to escape its system, he adored its culture and he would recite in a loud voice, for a long time, the verse of the most famous Iranian poets, Hafez and Sa’di. A year later, when I was visiting their graves in Shiraz, I realised that Iranian people adore their poets and recite their verses on every occasion, mostly without wine, which itself is an essential element of the Iranian poetry, but with a lot of passion, seeking inspiration from this poetry, for love and life.

This is a great country in every respect, where everything smells of roses and tastes of saffron. Maybe we got used to seeing these people in organised demonstrations, burning Israeli flags, however ordinary  Iranians have good relationships with their  neighbours regardless of whether they are Jewish, Christians or other non-Muslims . Religious tolerance here is an unwritten law. I could not imagine that there was a synagogue in Isfahan, which I visited, nor the Armenian church. Zoroaster preached his religion here too and it is the oldest religion in this region, with a temple and a small number of followers still remaining. Here, all religions are allowed and everyone can practise the one they choose. How is it that this country can be seen as a threat to world peace and order?

The capital, Tehran, has traits of a modern metropolis, along with the traditional elements that have been preserved, however, Isfahan, the old capital, is a true Persian gem. Mosques with coblat domes and the fine, minutely designed interiors, along with the mosques in Samarkand and Buhara, represent the most splendid examples of Islamic architecure in this region. Some of them were still damaged by Iraqi grenades from the last war between these two countries. Shi’a and Sunni will never find a common language that will bring them a lasting peace. And there is only little contention about issues surrounding the life of Prophet Mohamed, but enough to bring an irreconcilable division in the Muslim world.

For us, ‘infidels’ it is only a small matter, but for practising Muslims it is enough for an eternal disagreement.

September 2001

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