INDONEZIJA – INDONESIA

Hram na ostrvu Bali-Pura Ulun Danu Bratan Temple in Bali

Hram na ostrvu Bali-Pura Ulun Danu Bratan Temple in Bali

Ispred vulkana Bromo u svitanje-The dawn in front of Mount Bromo

Ispred vulkana Bromo u svitanje-The dawn in front of Mount Bromo

Mali hram na Baliju-A small temple in Bali

Mali hram na Baliju-A small temple in Bali

Prambanan-Kompleks hindu hramova u centralnoj Javi-Prambanan-Hindu temple compound in Central Java

Prambanan-Kompleks hindu hramova u centralnoj Javi-Prambanan-Hindu temple compound in Central Java

Stocna pijaca-A cattle market

Stocna pijaca-A cattle market

Stupe budistickog kompleksa Borobudur u centralnoj Javi-Borobudur stupas in central Java

Stupe budistickog kompleksa Borobudur u centralnoj Javi-Borobudur stupas in central Java

Tradicionalni balinezanski plesovi-Traditional Balinese dance

Tradicionalni balinezanski plesovi-Traditional Balinese dance

Tradicionalni kostimi-Traditional costumes

Tradicionalni kostimi-Traditional costumes

Tropska gozba-A tropical feast

Tropska gozba-A tropical feast

Igra kecak na Baliju-Kecak dance performed in Bali

Igra kecak na Baliju-Kecak dance performed in Bali

Mali hramovi u gustoj vegetaciji Balija - Small temples in Bali's lush vegetation

Mali hramovi u gustoj vegetaciji Balija – Small temples in Bali’s lush vegetation

Molitva u lokalnoj dzamiji-Preyer in local mosque

Molitva u lokalnoj dzamiji-Preyer in local mosque

Prambanan-Kompleks hindu hramova u centralnoj Javi-Prambanan-Hindu temple compound in Central Java (4)

Prambanan-Kompleks hindu hramova u centralnoj Javi-Prambanan-Hindu temple compound in Central Java (4)

Ritualno kupanje na Baliju-Ritual bathing in Bali

Ritualno kupanje na Baliju-Ritual bathing in Bali

Stupe budistickog kompleksa Borobudur u centralnoj Javi-Borobudur stupas in central Java

Stupe budistickog kompleksa Borobudur u centralnoj Javi-Borobudur stupas in central Java

Borba petlova je vazan dogadjaj-Cock fighting is an important event

Borba petlova je vazan dogadjaj-Cock fighting is an important event

Još nije protekla prohladna noć, a nas užurbuno bude nestrpljivi vodiči, opremaju i postavljaju u sedla svojih poslušnih konjića. Po zvezdanoj noći najpre jašemo kroz ravnicu koja se zove Peščano more, da bismo, posle manjih uspona, stigli do mesta do kojeg nas je vodila nezadrživa radoznalost – podnožja vulkana Bromo. Počelo je da sviće i da priroda ispušta zvuke koji prate novi dan. Oni su ovoga puta bili pomešani sa zastrašujućim zvucima iz unutrašnjosti zemlje, koja ih je slala kao opomenu. Vulkani u Indoneziji često šalju upozoravajuće opomene u vidu oblaka pepela i gasa. Jednom prilikom je u takav oblak uleteo avion, koji se odatle teško izvukao i uspeo da prinudno sleti. Možda će jednog sudbonosnog dana ti vulkani biti uzrok nekom novom ledenom dobu.

O tome ne razmišljam; možda ipak samo pomalo, dok me opsedaju lepota i veličina kratera kroz čiji se dim probijaju sunčevi zraci i dočaravaju nestvaran prizor koji podseća na rađanje, ili, možda, nestajanje sveta. Ipak, ljudi radoznalo šetaju obodom kratera i dive  se, naizgled bez straha, čudesnom ostvarenju prirode u ovom delu sveta.

Ona druga, religiozna ostvarenja, takođe su brojna u Indoneziji. Budizam, hinduizam i konačno Islam koji je preovladao, ovde se svuda prepliću ostavljajući večne tragove pokolenjima: budistički kompleks Borobudur i hindu hram Prambanan na ostrvu Java, brojni hramovi na Baliju, džamije rasute po celoj zemlji.

Više od sedamnaest hiljada ostrva čine Indoneziju najvećim i najlepšim arhipelagom na svetu. Džakarta, glavni grad, i Džogdžakarta nalaze se na suprotnim krajevima glavnog i najnaseljenijeg ostrva Jave, a oni sami su suprotnost jedan drugome, kao užurbani azijski velegrad i romantična provincija. Indoneziju čine i džungle Kalimantana, koji je najveći deo mističnog ostrva Borneo, kao i divlji i nepoznati svet ostrva Irijan Džaja na čijem se drugom kraju nalazi Papua Nova Gvineja. Deo ove zemlje je i ostrvo Sumatra, čiju je daljinu kao simbol nedostupnosti davno opevao veliki srpski pisac Miloš Crnjanski.

Ipak, jedno malo, ali po lepoti čuveno ostrvo, doprinosi da priča o Indoneziji bude jedinstvena i skoro kao da joj ne pripada, kao da je posebna zemlja iz bajke. To je magično ostrvo Bali, na kome je toliko lepo da ljudi iz mnogih delova sveta bez razmišljanja napuštaju svoje prethodne živote i ovde se nastanjuju. Učinio je to i moj prijatelj Saša Potkonjak i osnovao ovde svoju porodicu sa lepom Balinežankom Aini.

Rajsko ostrvo Bali, sa pretežno Hindu stanovništvom, prava je oaza duhovnog mira i lepote. Svaki ostrvljanin svojim rođenjem dobija mali hram, a na samom ostrvu postoji oko deset hiljada hramova: za ceremonije, sahrane, proslave. Raskošna priroda, u kojoj se smenjuju pirinčane terase sa bujnom vegetacijom, šumama palmi i najlepšim cvetnim vrtovima, daruje sve životne potrebe svom stanovništvu, koje joj uzvraća brojnim ceremonijama u njenu čast. Plesovi iz indijskih nacionalnih epova Ramayana i Mahabharata, ili kečak igra u kojoj učestvuju samo muškarci, deo su folklora ovog magičnog ostrva, koje postaje vaš dom onog trenutka kad stupite na njega.

Nekim srećnicima to zauvek i ostane.

Mart 1996.
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The cold night has not passed yet, however the impatient guides wake us up and get our equipment ready and put us in the saddle astride their obedient horses. It is a starry night and we ride through a plain called The Sea of Sand and then, after ascending some hills, we reach the place that we were so irresistibly curious about – the foot of the Bromo volcano. It started to dawn and nature was letting out sounds announcing the arrival of a new day. This time they were mixed with the terrifying sounds from the centre of the Earth, sent forth as a warning. Indonesia’s volcanos often send warning signals in the form of ash clouds and gas. Once an airplane flew into this cloud and barely managed to get out of it and make an emergency landing. Maybe one faithful day, these volcanoes can bring about a new Ice Age.

I don’t think much about it: maybe I do a little bit while I am captivated by the beauty and sheer size of the crater, rays of sunshine piercing through its smoke, creating a surreal scene depicting the birth of the world, or perhaps its end. Yet, people walk with curiosity around the edges of the crater, and admire, apparently without fear, the magnificent act of nature in this part of the world.

Other kinds of accomplishments in Indonesia, such as those religious ones, are also numerous. Buddhism, Hinduism and eventually Islam, which has prevailed here, are all interlinked, leaving eternal treasures to the posterity: the Buddhist complex Borobudur, the Hindu temple Prambanan, on the Island of Java, numerous temples in Bali and mosques strewn across the entire country.

More than seventeen thousand islands make Indonesia the biggest and most beautiful archipelago in the world. Jakarta, the capital, and Yogyakarta, are situated at the opposite ends of the main and most densely populated island of Java, and the cities themselves are opposites, one being a bustling metropolis, the other a romantic countryside town. Indonesia comprises of the jungles of Kalimantan too, which form the largest part of the mystical island of Borneo, as well as the wild and unknown world of Irian Jaya, at the other end of which is Papua New Guinea. Yet another part of the country is the island of Sumatra, a remote place which great serbian writer Miloš Crnjanski used as a symbol of an inaccessible place.

Yet, one small, but famously beautiful island, seems like it does not belong to Indonesia, like it is a fairytale land, making the story of Indonesia even more unusual. This is the magical island of Bali which is so attractive that many people from around the world abandon their previous lives at the spur of a moment to settle here. My friend Saša Potkonjak did just that and started his family here with a beautiful Balinese woman Aini. This paradise island with the Hindu majority, is a true oasis of spiritual peace and beauty. Every islander is assigned a small temple by birth, and there are around 10,000 temples on the island – for ceremonies, funerals and celebrations. Glorious nature in which rice paddies co-exist with lush vegetation, palm forests and most splendid flower gardens, provides for all the possible needs of its inhabitants, who in turn celebrate this nature through many ceremonies. Dances from the Indian national epic poems Ramayana and Mahabharata or the Kecak dance performed only by men, are all part of the folklore of this magical island, which becomes your home the moment you set your foot on it.

For a few lucky ones it remains their home.

March 1996

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