INDIJA – INDIA – भारत गणराज्य

Ambassador car

Ambassador car

Bopal, svako svoju radnju vozi-Everybody carrying own shop in Bopal

Bopal, svako svoju radnju vozi-Everybody carrying own shop in Bopal

Budisticki svestenici u pecinama Elora-Buddhist monks in Ellora caves

Budisticki svestenici u pecinama Elora-Buddhist monks in Ellora caves

Crveni kisobrani Kalkute-Red umbrellas of Calcutta

Crveni kisobrani Kalkute-Red umbrellas of Calcutta

Levo orijentisani jug Indije-Leftist South of India

Levo orijentisani jug Indije-Leftist South of India

Palata vetrova u Dzajpuru-Palace of Winds in Jaipur (Pink Palace)

Palata vetrova u Dzajpuru-Palace of Winds in Jaipur (Pink Palace)

Sveta zivotinja krava-A cow, the holy animal

Sveta zivotinja krava-A cow, the holy animal

Tadz Mahal-Taj Mahal

Tadz Mahal-Taj Mahal

Vozic prolazi kroz Dardziling-Toy train passing Darjeeling

Vozic prolazi kroz Dardziling-Toy train passing Darjeeling

Zabava na putu-Entertainment on the road

Zabava na putu-Entertainment on the road

Zlatni hram u Amritsaru-Harmandir Sahib or Golden Temple in Amritsar

Zlatni hram u Amritsaru-Harmandir Sahib or Golden Temple in Amritsar

Ajanta caves

Ajanta caves

Amritsar, Zlatni hram, kuhinja-Amritsar Golden Temple, the kitchen

Amritsar, Zlatni hram, kuhinja-Amritsar Golden Temple, the kitchen

Berba caja u Dardzilingu-Picking tea in Darjeeling

Berba caja u Dardzilingu-Picking tea in Darjeeling

Budisticki manastir Tikse u Ladaku-Thikse Gompa in Ladakh

Budisticki manastir Tikse u Ladaku-Thikse Gompa in Ladakh

Fasada Palate vetrova u Dzajpuru-Facade of the Palace of Winds in Jaipur

Fasada Palate vetrova u Dzajpuru-Facade of the Palace of Winds in Jaipur

Hram indijske religije Dzain u Kalkuti-Jain Temple in Calcutta

Hram indijske religije Dzain u Kalkuti-Jain Temple in Calcutta

Izvlacenje mreze na plazi na jugu Indije-Pulling out the net on the beach in South India

Izvlacenje mreze na plazi na jugu Indije-Pulling out the net on the beach in South India

Jezero Picola u Udajpuru-Udaipur Lake Pichola

Jezero Picola u Udajpuru-Udaipur Lake Pichola

Katolicka crkva u Goi-Church of Our Lady of the Rosary in Goa

Katolicka crkva u Goi-Church of Our Lady of the Rosary in Goa

Lokalni prevoz-Local transportation

Lokalni prevoz-Local transportation

Meditacija u hramu-Meditation in a temple

Meditacija u hramu-Meditation in a temple

Na kanalima u drzavi Kerala-Backwaters in Kerala

Na kanalima u drzavi Kerala-Backwaters in Kerala

Nocna procesija-A night procession

Nocna procesija-A night procession

Sa snimanja indijskog filma-Shooting the Indian movie

Sa snimanja indijskog filma-Shooting the Indian movie

Tadz Mahal-Taj Mahal

Tadz Mahal-Taj Mahal

U hramu-In a temple

U hramu-In a temple

Vesele Indijke-Cheerful Indian women

Vesele Indijke-Cheerful Indian women

Zlatni hram u Amritsaru-Harmandir Sahib or Golden Temple in Amritsar

Zlatni hram u Amritsaru-Harmandir Sahib or Golden Temple in Amritsar

S nekim svojim pravom Indiju nazivam kraljicom svih zemalja, jer je to zemlja u koju uvek želim da se vratim. Imajući u tim trenucima na umu značenje izreke: ’’U Indiju možeš ući na stotinu vrata, ali izlaza iz nje nema’’, ja joj se iznova vraćam sa sve većim žarom i zaljubljenošću, jer shvatam zašto je ta izreka i nastala. Svaki moj povratak Indiji značio je sve dublju uverenost u te reči i posvećenost toj zemlji, dok nisam postao njen potpuni zarobljenik i zavisnik. I kada prođe dosta vremena između dva boravka u njoj, ja sam često s njom u pričama, snovima, mislima i planovima za sledeći odlazak,  jer povratak u Indiju je slatka neminovnost. Krstario sam tom zemljom svuda, od severa do juga, od zapada ka istoku i po svim dijagonalama, na čemu su mi mnogi bogati i učeni Indusi zavideli, jer nisu uspeli da vide ni deo toga. Ali, nažalost, često se najmanje poznaje sopstvena zemlja, što je delimično slučaj i sa mnom.

Osim jedinstva nacije, raznolikost je pravilo u ovoj zemlji. Sve je različito: kultura, običaji, religije i njihova božanstva, osam stotina jezika i dijalekata, a opet jedinstveno u toj raznolikosti i spojeno u točku na zastavi, koji simboliše večito lutanje, pokret, traženje… Nema dela Indije koji mi nije prirastao za srce, iako je svaki deo poseban u svojoj lepoti, a i ta lepota je svuda različita i posebna.

Odlazak u Ladak, koji nazivaju indijskim Tibetom, na skoro četiri hiljade metara nadmorske visine, i upoznavanje brojnih budističkih hramova i stupa, nadgrobnih spomenika, bilo je jedno od mojih prvih i najlepših otkrića u Indiji. A tek spuštanje ka Kašmiru, koje je trajalo 48 sati za samo 400 km, bio je nesvakidašnji doživljaj: stari limeni autobus, pretrpan ljudima i stvarima, polako se spuštao uskim putićem, nekada sa dva točka nad provalijom, gde bi kolona vozila morala satima da stoji na proširenju i čeka da prođe druga kolonu iz suprotnog smera. Dolazak u Šrinagar, glavni grad Kašmira, i boravak na njegovim jezerima Dal i Nagin na tepisima lokvanja u starim drvenim brodovima – hotelima, gde vam za doručak nude lotosov med sa mrvicama hašiša u njemu, vredeo je opasne avanture silaska u ovu dolinu snova.

Delhi, Bombaj, Madras, Kalkuta (teško se navikavam na nova imena indijskih gradova kao Mumbaj-Bombaj ili Čenaj-Madras) nezaobilazni su deo svakog odlaska i ponovnog dolaska u ovu čarobnu zemlju, gde se predeli iz unutrašnjosti, plaže i obale, smenjuju sa hiljadama hramova na vašem putu, onih planiranih, iz poznatih knjiga, i onih na koje spontano nailazite kad se odlučite na trenutke besciljnog lutanja ovom zemljom, a koji ponekad ostavljaju najdublji trag. Bilo da su to maharadžine palate u Radžastanu; čuveni Tadž Mahal u Agri, koji se povezuje sa najlepšom ljubavnom pričom; pustinjski karavani u Džajsalmeru; hramovi u Varanasiju na svetoj reci Gang, gde se dimovi uvijaju uznoseći duše ka nebu; plantaže čaja u Dardžilingu sa britanskim kolonijalnim letnjikovcima; ogromne peščane plaže na Goi, gde se još oseća stari portugalski šarm, ili na komunističkoj Kerali, na samom jugu zemlje, Indija vam pruža celu sebe i potpuno vas uvlači u svoja nedra.

Izlaza iz nje nema. Ostaje vam samo da sagorite u njenoj lepoti kao mali insens na ulasku u hram, čiji je ulaz optočen vencima cveća i ispunjen gustim mirisom jasmina.

Septembar 1986.
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I call India ‘The Queen of All Countries’ and I feel I have the right to do so, because India is the one place I always want to go back to. Bearing in mind the saying: ‘You can enter India through a hundred doors, but there is no way out’, I keep returning to India yet again, with rising passion and captivation, as I start to grasp the full meaning of this saying. Each time I returned to India, I believed these words more intensely and my dedication to India finally turned into captivity and dependence. And even when a long time goes by between my visits, I am bound to India by stories, dreams, thoughts and plans for my next trip, because returning to India is a sweet certainty. I explored India to its every corner, travelling from the North to the South, from the West to the East, and along all diagonals, which inspired envy even in wealthy and learned Indians, because they have not managed to see but a part of that. Unfortunately, in most cases one’s own country is the least known, and that is partly true for myself.

Apart from the unity of the nation, diversity rules in this country. Everything is diverse: culture, customs, religion and deities, 800 languages and dialects, and yet united in this diversity, into the wheel on the national flag, symbolising eternal wandering, movement and search… There isn’t a part of India that is not dear to my heart, even though each part is unique and different to the others in its beauty, and this beauty itself is different in every place.

One of my first and nicest experiences of India was a visit to Ladakh, also called the Indian Tibet, at 4000 metres altitude, where I encountered numerous Buddhist monasteries, monuments and stupas. The descent to Kashmir, which took 48 hours for only 400 kilometres, was an unusual experience: an old tin made bus, overcrowded with people and things, slowly descended a narrow little road, sometimes with two wheels above the abyss, at a passing point where a motorcade would have to wait for hours until the oncoming traffic filed through. Arriving in Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir, staying on the lakes of Dal and Nagin covered with lotus leaves like carpets, in the old houseboats where for breakfast you are served lotus honey with bits of hashish – all that was worth the dangerous adventure of descending into this valley of dreams.

Delhi, Bombay, Madras, Calcutta (I find it difficult to get used to the new names of Indian cities, Mumbai-Bombay, Chennai-Madras), are always an essential part of every subsequent visit to this enchanting country. The countryside, beaches and coasts, give way to thousands of temples on your way, some of which you have planned to see and are featured in famous books, as well as those you encounter by chance, when you let yourself drift aimlessly through this country, and more often than not they are the ones that leave the most lasting impression. Whether it is the Maharaja’s Palaces in the Rajasthan; the famous Taj Mahal in Agra that is linked to a most beautiful love story; the desert caravans in Jaisalmer; the temples in Varanasi on the sacred Ganges river, where billowing smokes take souls to the sky; tea plantations in Darjeeling, with British colonial summer houses; long sandy beaches in Goa where the old Portuguese charm is still felt; or still communist Kerala at the very South of the country; wherever you are, India gives all of itself to you and draws you in.

There is no way out. You can only burn out in its beauty like incense at the entrance to the temple, decorated with flower laurels and full of the heavy scent of jasmine.

September 1986

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