HONDURAS – HONDURAS

 

Pogled na glavni grad-A view of the capital

Pogled na glavni grad-A view of the capital

Spomenik generalu San Martinu u glavnom gradu-The monument of general San Martin in the capital

Spomenik generalu San Martinu u glavnom gradu-The monument of general San Martin in the capital

Stadion u Tegucipalpi-National Stadium 'Tiburcio Car+şas Andino' of Tegucigalpa

Stadion u Tegucipalpi-National Stadium ‘Tiburcio Car+şas Andino’ of Tegucigalpa

Stara Predsednicka palata-The old Presidential Palace

Stara Predsednicka palata-The old Presidential Palace

Statua orla u San Lorencu-An eagle statue in San Lorenzo

Statua orla u San Lorencu-An eagle statue in San Lorenzo

Ulaz u trzni centar-Entrance to the shopping mall Los Proceres

Ulaz u trzni centar-Entrance to the shopping mall Los Proceres

Zgrada Univerziteta u Hondurasu-Metropolitan University of Honduras

Zgrada Univerziteta u Hondurasu-Metropolitan University of Honduras

Poslednja stanica na putu Maja, koji vodi od juga Meksika, preko Gvatemale, sve do Hondurasa, zaokružuje ono što se naziva El Mundo Maya, svet te drevne i magične civilizacije, koja je obeležila jedan značajan period Novog sveta. Veliki limeni autobus kompanije Tica bus jezdi transameričkom magistralom kroz centralnu Ameriku i prevozi putnike celom trasom – od Gvatemala Sitija do Panama Sitija. Glavni grad Hondurasa, Tegusigalpa, što u prvodu znači ’’srebrni breg’’, nimalo se ne razlikuje od sličnih gradova provincijskog tipa u ovom delu sveta. Ipak, za mene neverovatan prizor ugledah u samom centru grada: ulična lutrija na kojoj je glavna nagrada automobil jugo 45. Bilo je to davne 1992. godine, kada su za taj srpski auto još uvek bili zainteresovani američki kupci. Ova zemlja, koja tada nije imala diplomatske odnose sa Jugoslavijom, a ovde samo bila pojam vojnih diktatura, u tom trenutku je imala nešto što je nekada bilo ponos moje zemlje, i to na lutriji. I sigurno nije imala pojma da je, upravo u tom trenutku, počeo raspad zemlje porekla tog malog auta.

Tako se raspadaju mnoge zemlje i svetovi, tako se nekada raspao i svet Maja, pa kad je španski osvajač Ernan Kortes došao u ove krajeve, te velike civilizacije više nije bilo. Ostale su samo ruševine ogromnog kompleksa Kopan, koji se uz Tikal u Gvatemali i Palenke i Čičenicu u Meksiku, ubraja u najimpozantnije gradove – svetilišta Maja. Zelena ptičica kecal, dugog repa, koja je nacionalni simbol susedne Gvatemale, bezbrižno proleće između piramida i oltara Maja.Tu je cvetala civilizacija, poznata po astronomiji i medicini, u kojoj se znalo za određene terapeutske postupke kao što je lobotomija, i koja je stvorila jedan od najsavršenijih kalendara, koji danas proučava Katarina Prokić, moja drugarica iz detinjstva. Ona mi je podrobno objasnila zašto sam ja Plavi Solarni Majmun u tom svetu, u kome se vreme još preciznije deli i u čijem lunarnom kalendaru godina ima 13 meseci po 28 dana. Sve izgleda savršeno u svetu Maja koji tek sada otkrivamo, ali u čije tajne možda nikada nećemo moći da proniknemo, pre svega, zbog drugačijeg sistema razmišljanja. Možda će naša civilizacija zbog toga malo duže potrajati, ali naš odnos prema njoj sigurno joj donosi istu sudbinu koju je doživeo svet Maja. Možda i mi u ovom času očekujemo spas od pojave nekog boga Pernate zmije, koga su Maje zvali Kecalkoatl, a mi – već ko zna kako.

I, da li će se on ikada pojaviti?

Februar 1992.
_________________________________________________________

The last stop on the Mayan route which goes from the South of Mexico, via Guatemala, all the way to Honduras, rounds up what is called El Mundo Maya, the world of an ancient, magical civilisation which has marked an important period in the history of the New World. A huge tin bus, which belongs to Tica bus company, glides swiftly on the trans-American highway across Central America, carrying passengers all the way from Guatemala City to Panama City. The capital city of Honduras, Tegucigalpa, which means ‘silver hill’, does not differ at all from other provincial cities in this part of the world. Yet, I saw a really unbelievable scene in the very centre of the town – a popular street lottery for which the main prize is the Yugo 45 car. It was a long time ago, in 1992, when American buyers were still interested in this car. This country which had no diplomatic relations with Yugoslavia at that time, and is synonymous with dictatorships in the region, at the time possessed something that used to be the pride of my country, and it was a lottery prize! And for sure no one here knew that the disintegration of the country of origin of this little car had just started.

Thus many worlds and civilisations fall apart and so did the world of the Mayas, so when the Spanish conqueror Hernán Cortés arrived here, the grand civilisation had already gone. Only the ruins of the vast Copan complex remain, which alongside with Tikal in Guatemala and Palenque and Chichen Itza in Mexico, represent the most impressive sacred cities of the Mayan civilisation. A green, long tailed quetzal bird, the national symbol of the neighbouring Guatemala, happily flies around Mayan pyramids and altars. Here, a civilisation famous for astronomy and medicine flourished, and medical procedures such as lobotomy were practised. The Mayas also invented one of the most perfect calendars, and my childhood friend, Katarina Prokić, has been studying it. She explained to me in detail, why, according to their astrology, I am a Blue Solar Monkey in the Mayan world – the world where time is measured very precisely and the lunar year consists of 13 months each with 28 days. Everything looks perfect in their world even though we may never be able to fathom the meaning of their secrets, mostly because of a different way of thinking. Perhaps our civilisation will last a little bit longer because of our thinking systems, but the way we treat the world around us will surely bring a downfall much like the one the Mayas experienced. Perhaps at this moment we also hope for salvation from the God of the Feathered Serpent, which the Mayas called Quetzalcoatl, and we call him in all different ways.

And is this God ever going to appear?

February 1992

Leave a Reply