GRUZIJA – GEORGIA – საქართველო

Stadion u Kutaisiju-Stadium Torpedo in Kutaisi

Stadion u Kutaisiju-Stadium Torpedo in Kutaisi

Stomatolog-A dentist

Stomatolog-A dentist

Procesija u gradu-Procession in the city

Procesija u gradu-Procession in the city

Boemski kvart starog Tbilisija-Bohemian quarter of old Tbilisi

Boemski kvart starog Tbilisija-Bohemian quarter of old Tbilisi

Gradska vecnica - Tbilisi City Hall

Gradska vecnica – Tbilisi City Hall

Crkva u glavnom gradu-A church in the capital

Crkva u glavnom gradu-A church in the capital

Banja Tskaltubo u centralnoj Gruziji-Tskaltubo spa resort in central Georgia

Banja Tskaltubo u centralnoj Gruziji-Tskaltubo spa resort in central Georgia

Zgrada Parlamenta-Parliament Building

Zgrada Parlamenta-Parliament Building

Svetac u odelu u crkvi Kashveti, Tbilisi-A saint dressed in a suit in the Kashveti Church in Tbilisi

Svetac u odelu u crkvi Kashveti, Tbilisi-A saint dressed in a suit in the Kashveti Church in Tbilisi

Spomenik Svetom Georgiju na Trgu slobode u Tbilisiju-Monument of St. George at the Freedom Square, Tbilisi

Spomenik Svetom Georgiju na Trgu slobode u Tbilisiju-Monument of St. George at the Freedom Square, Tbilisi

Pogled na Tbilisi-A view of Tbilisi

Pogled na Tbilisi-A view of Tbilisi

Lepo obnovljena zgrada-Nicely renovated building

Lepo obnovljena zgrada-Nicely renovated building

Gradska vecnica - Tbilisi City Hall

Gradska vecnica – Tbilisi City Hall

Boemski kvart starog Tbilisija-Bohemian quarter of old Tbilisi

Boemski kvart starog Tbilisija-Bohemian quarter of old Tbilisi

Grad Kutaisi-The city of Kutaisi

Grad Kutaisi-The city of Kutaisi

Neki delovi glavnog grada-Some parts of the capital

Neki delovi glavnog grada-Some parts of the capital

Putokaz-A road sign

Putokaz-A road sign

Tuzni ostaci socijalizma-Sad remains of the socialism

Tuzni ostaci socijalizma-Sad remains of the socialism

U starom delu glavnog grada-In the old part of the capital

U starom delu glavnog grada-In the old part of the capital

Crkva-Anchiskhati Church

Crkva-Anchiskhati Church

Prvi put sam video sliku sveca u građanskom odelu. Bilo je to u jednoj pravoslavnoj crkvi u Tbilisiju, glavnom gradu Gruzije, koja je u IV veku, među prvima prihvatila hrišćanstvo. Lagano šetamo ulicama ovog grada moj prijatelj, profesor Stanoje Glišić, anesteziolog i ja i upijamo postsovjetsku atmosferu, začinjenu kavkaskom mudrošću i dobrim gruzijskim vinom. U delu grada, koji podseća na boemsku četvrt, probamo i njihove čuvene specijalitete koje pamtim iz gruzijskog restorana „Tiflis“ u Moskvi. Sećam se da je u njemu, na vrlo diskretnom mestu, stajala mala statua Joseba Džugašvilija, zvanog Staljin, kao podsećanje na njegovo poreklo. Jednostavna su i ukusna jela gruzijske kuhinje, kao khachapuri, vruća pogača u obliku čamca punjena kavkaskim sirom i zapečena sa jajetom, mchadi nalik našoj proji, khinkali valjušci sa začinjenim mlevenim mesom, ali uvek uz posebno poluslatko vino kindzmarauli.

U vremenu osamostaljivanja od velikog i moćnog suseda Rusije kao da nema mnogo zakavkaske mudrosti, koju je odavde poneo veliki mislilac Georgije Gurđijev, a koja bi tu malu zemlju sigurnim koracima povela putem napretka. Nerešeni teritorijalni problemi nekih delova Gruzije, kao što su Abhazija i Južna Osetija, samo dodatno komplikuju situaciju i dovode do toga da moćni veliki brat sa severa mora da reaguje.

Ipak, Gruzini su mudar i ponosan narod, koji će izvući svoju zemlju iz nevolja, ali sigurno ne mogu reći ono što se obično kaže ˝i vratiti joj prethodni sjaj˝, jer Gruzija to nije ni imala u pravom smislu reči. Oduvek je to bila zemlja skromnih ljudi i neznatnih mogućnosti, razarana i prisvajana, korišćena i žrtvovana, ali ipak svoja i prepoznatljiva.

Doputovali smo u nju posebnim avionom, koji je vozio srpski fudbalski tim “Crvena zvezda” na utakmicu u grad Kutaisi. Nekada se tu nalazila mitska zemlja Kolhida u kojoj je, prema grčkoj mitologiji, živela Medeja i gde su se zaputili Argonauti, koje je predvodio Jason u potrazi za zlatnim runom. Zatim je, sve do kraja XIX veka, to bio glavni grad Kraljevine Gruzije. Socijalizam ga je ipak dokrajčio.

Vozili smo se do glavnog grada Gruzije i natrag i sa nevericom razmišljali koliko je vremena bilo potrebno da se ova zemlja tako uništi. Kao da su je godinama sistematski bombardovali. Ipak, jednostavnost i srdačnost njenih ljudi kao da su otvarali vrata nade i mudrosti koja je, kao i dugovečnost, uvek bila odlika zakavkaskih naroda. Socijalizam je dugo trajao, ali ipak bio prolazan. Mudrost je večna. Ipak, nedostaje mi kindzmarauli, jer ga više nema u Moskvi.

Vezuje me za neke posebne trenutke.

Avgust 2000.
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For the first time in my life I saw a picture of a saint in plain clothes. It was in an Orthodox church in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, where Christianity was accepted early in the 4th century. My friend Stanoje Glišić, an anaesthetist, and myself, slowly roam the streets of this city, soaking up the post-Soviet atmosphere redolent of Caucasian wit and great Georgian wine. In the part of the city resembling a bohemian quarters, we try their culinary specials that I remember well from the Georgian restaurant ‘Tiflis’ in Moscow. I remember seeing a small statue there, in a discreet place, of Ioseb Jughashvili – better known as Stalin, as a reminder of his true origin. Georgian cuisine is simple but tasty, such as khachapuri, hot from the stove bread shaped as a boat, filled with Caucasian cheese and topped with egg; mchadi, similar to Serbian corn cakes, khinkali –dumplings with spiced minced meat, always accompanied by special, semi sweet wine – kindzmarauli.

At the time of gaining independence from the big, mighty neigbour called Russia the Caucasian wisdom seemed to have disappeared, the same wisdom embodied by the great thinker of this area George Gurdjieff, the wisdom which would have safely taken this country down the development route. Unresovled territorial disputes in some parts of Georgia, such as Abkhazia and South Ossetia, only add to the complications, compelling the big brother from the North to get involved.

Yet Georgians are wise and proud people and they will manage to lift their country out of trouble.However, it cannot be said that they would ‘restore it to its former glory’, as Georgia never really had it in the first place. It has always been a country of modest people and limited resources, it has been destroyed and annexed, exploited and sacrificed, but it is still authentic and unique.

We arrived on a special flight that was carrying the Serbian football team – ‘Red Star’ to a match in the city of Kutaisi. This is the place of the mythological land of Kolkhida, where according to the Greek myth, Medea lived. This is also where the Argonauts, led by Jason, searched for the Golden Fleece. And then, until the end of the 19th century it was the capital of the Kingdom of Georgia. Yet, socialism ruined it.

We were driving to the capital of Georgia and back and thinking, in disbelief, how much time it took to destroy this country to this extent.  It looked like it had been systematically bombed for years. Yet, the kindness and simplicity of its people seemed to open doors to  fresh hope and wisdom which has always been, just like longevity, a trait of the Caucasus peoples. The socialism lasted for a long time, but has passed. Wisdom is eternal. Still, I miss kindzmarauli  because it is not available in Moscow any more.

And it reminds me of some very special moments.

August 2000

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