GANA – GHANA

Pijaca u Akri-The market in Accra

Pijaca u Akri-The market in Accra

Prodavac sa sirokim osmehom-A vendor with wide smile

Prodavac sa sirokim osmehom-A vendor with wide smile

Sareni ribarski camci-Colourful fishing boats

Sareni ribarski camci-Colourful fishing boats

Slikanje-Taking a picture

Slikanje-Taking a picture

Utvrdjenje Elmina je bilo prihvatno mesto za robove-Elmina Castle used to be slaves' collection centre

Utvrdjenje Elmina je bilo prihvatno mesto za robove-Elmina Castle used to be slaves’ collection centre

Uzivanje u zalasku sunca-Enjoying the sunset

Uzivanje u zalasku sunca-Enjoying the sunset

Jutarnji ulov-Morning catch

Jutarnji ulov-Morning catch

Nedeljna zabava na plazi-A Sunday beach party

Nedeljna zabava na plazi-A Sunday beach party

Ispred skole-In front of the school

Ispred skole-In front of the school

Muzicar sa sirokim osmehom-A musician with wide smile

Muzicar sa sirokim osmehom-A musician with wide smile

Pijaca u Akri-The market in Accra

Pijaca u Akri-The market in Accra

Ponuda tropskog voca-Tropical fruit offer

Ponuda tropskog voca-Tropical fruit offer

Prodavacica jastoga na plazi-A lobster vendor on the beach

Prodavacica jastoga na plazi-A lobster vendor on the beach

Ribolovacke price-Fishermen's tales

Ribolovacke price-Fishermen’s tales

Skulptura od drveta u botanickoj basti Aburi-A wooden sculpture in the Aburi botanical garden

Skulptura od drveta u botanickoj basti Aburi-A wooden sculpture in the Aburi botanical garden

Utvrdjenje Elmina je bilo prihvatno mesto za robove-Elmina Castle used to be slaves' collection centre

Utvrdjenje Elmina je bilo prihvatno mesto za robove-Elmina Castle used to be slaves’ collection centre

Dzejmstaun-lokalna ribarska luka Akre-Jamestown-the local fishing port of Accra

Dzejmstaun-lokalna ribarska luka Akre-Jamestown-the local fishing port of Accra

Nedelja pre podne na gradskoj plaži u Akri, glavnom gradu Gane, najlepša je zabava kako za lokalno stanovništvo, tako i za strance. Na nekoliko improvizovanih pozornica smenjuju se lokalni muzičari i folk-grupe, dok mnogo ljudi i dece, u kupaćim kostimima vatrenih boja, igraju, prateći brze afričke ritmove. Svi su veoma veseli i neumorni u svom plesu. Svi se smeju i raduju životu jer su takav narod: dobar i, čini se, neopterećen svakodnevnicom. I uopšte, u mnogim afričkim zemljama koje u skorijoj prošlosti nisu bile zahvaćene ratovima, narod je miran i dobar.

Na drugom kraju plaže srećem veselog mladića, širokog osmeha koji, na moje zaprepašćenje, peva “Ko to kaže, ko to laže, Srbija je mala…”, i tako celu pesmu koju ni ja nisam znao do kraja. Naučili ga dovitljivi radnici kompanije Energoprojekt, koja je ovde prisutna decenijama, kao i u mnogim afričkim zemljama. Ranija spoljna politika naše zemlje ostavila je velikog traga na sve aspekte života ovog kontinenta, dok je nova, nažalost, poništila mnoge od njih. Ali, ostaju prijatna sećanja na Titova vremena, kao i na to ime koje je skoro svima u Africi i dalje poznato. Popodne na plaži nastavlja se uz mirnije ritmove i žene koje u ogromnim posudama na glavi, za nekoliko dolara, nude sveže, ogromne, tek skuvane jastoge.

Nekada deo imperije plemena Ašanti, zatim Zlatna obala pod engleskim kolonijalnim vlastima, Gana je danas mirna i prijatna zemlja. Samo stara portugalsko-holandska, a kasnije britanska utvrđenja na obali podsećaju na davnu tužnu prošlost, kada su bila krajnja destinacija karavana robova koji su odavde odvođeni u Novi svet. Mnogi Afroamerikanci danas dolaze ovde gde su njihovi koreni i materijalno pomažu očuvanju tvrđava koje su pretvorene u muzeje ropstva. Dočekani, uz osmeh, rečju “Akwaaba” (dobrodošli), ovde im je lepo. Uzavreli grad, lokalna pijaca, šarenilo ribarskih i drugih čamaca koji svi nose neku zastavu, miris morskih talasa i ukus sveg tropskog voća – to je Gana, zemlja dobrih i radosnih ljudi. Ovde je najukusniji ananas, a kakao odlazi u poznate čokolade Cadburry.

Otac nacije Kvame Nkrumah moze biti ponosan na svoju zemlju, kao i njegov sledbenik, nekada mladi šarmantni vazduhoplovni poručnik Džeri Rolings, koji je brzim preletima svoje flote izveo lagani drzavni udar, a kasnije lepim osmehom šarmirao kćerku našeg ambasadora, s kojom je išao u školu. Neki naši ljudi i danas vrlo dobro pamte ta vremena, a možda, na temeljima stare slave, mogu i da ostvare dobre poslove sa ovom miroljubivom afričkom zemljom na Zlatnoj obali.

Februar 1994.

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Sunday morning on the city beach in Accra, the capital, is the happiest time for both the locals and visitors. Local musicians and folk bands take turns on several makeshift stages, while the multitude of adults and children, in bold coloured swimming costumes dance to the fast African beat. They are all full of joy and unstoppable in their dancing. They all laugh and love life – they are just like that, good people who are not enslaved by the everyday harsh reality. And in general, in most African countries where there were no recent wars, people are good and peaceful.

At the other end of the beach, I run into a cheerful guy with a broad grin on his face, who is singing, to my consternation, a song in Serbian: ‘ Who is saying, who is lying that Serbia is small…?’ and so forth to the end of the song, which even I did not know in its entirety. He learned this from the witty workers of Energoprojekt Company, that has been present here, as well as in other African countries, for many decades. Our past foreign policy has made quite an impact on many aspects of life of the African continent, whereas our recent foreign policy has, unfortunately, cancelled many of the previous positive influences. However, there are nice memories of Tito’s time still and his name is still widely known across Africa. The afternoon unrolls with somewhat calmer rhythms and women walking around the beach with huge bowls on their heads, offer big, freshly cooked lobsters, for a few dollars each.

In the past Ghana was part of the Ashanti tribe empire, then it was the Gold Coast under the British colonial rule, and today it is a peaceful and pleasant country. Only the old Portuguese-Dutch fortresses, and later British ones on the coast, remind of the sad past when this was the final destination for slave caravans before they were sent to the New World. Many Afro-Americans visit Ghana in search of their roots and fund the restoration of these forts that have now been turned into museums of slavery. They are always met with a smile and a word ‘Akwaaba’(meaning –‘welcome’) and they like it here. The bustling city, the local market, fishing and other boats of every colour sporting a flag, the smell of the sea waves and the taste of fresh tropical fruit, all of this is Ghana – a land of good and happy people. Pineapple is most delicious here, and cocoa is exported to Cadbury chocolate factories.

The father of the nation, Kwame Nkrumah, can be proud of his country, as much as his successor, the once young, charming leiutenant Jerry Rawlings who orchestrated an easy coup d’etat with his air fleet; he also later charmed our Ambassdor’s daughter with his proverbial smile, when they were at school together. Some of our people still remember these times quite well, and maybe, using their former glory and reputation, they can carry out good business deals with this peaceful African country on the Gold Coast.

February 1994

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