FRANCUSKA – FRANCE

Chateau de Bellecroix in Burgundy

Chateau de Bellecroix in Burgundy

Dvorac Sambor u dolini Loare-Chateau de Chambord in Loire Valley

Dvorac Sambor u dolini Loare-Chateau de Chambord in Loire Valley

Englesko setaliste u Nici-Promenade des Anglais in Nice

Englesko setaliste u Nici-Promenade des Anglais in Nice

Gužva ispred Mona Lize u Luvru-A crowd in front of Mona Lisa in Louvre

Gužva ispred Mona Lize u Luvru-A crowd in front of Mona Lisa in Louvre

Katedrala Notr Dam u Parizu-Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris

Katedrala Notr Dam u Parizu-Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris

Konkord-obelisk koji je egipatska vlada poklonila Franciskoj u 19. veku-Place de la Concorde-the Obelisk is a present of Egyptian government in 19th century

Konkord-obelisk koji je egipatska vlada poklonila Franciskoj u 19. veku-Place de la Concorde-the Obelisk is a present of Egyptian government in 19th century

Nica u noći-Nice by night

Nica u noći-Nice by night

Osvetljena Ajfelova kula-Illuminated Eiffel Tower

Osvetljena Ajfelova kula-Illuminated Eiffel Tower

Panorama Pariza-A view of Paris

Panorama Pariza-A view of Paris

Pariska opera-palata Garnije-The Palais Garnier Opera House

Pariska opera-palata Garnije-The Palais Garnier Opera House

Pogled na Senu i turističke brodove-A view of the Seine and the Bateaux Mouches

Pogled na Senu i turističke brodove-A view of the Seine and the Bateaux Mouches

Vinograd u sred Monmartra-A vineyard in the middle of Montmartre

Vinograd u sred Monmartra-A vineyard in the middle of Montmartre

Voyageur, mon ami! Putniče, prijatelju moj!“ odzvanjao je gromki glas jednog poznatog glumca, mislim da je bio Žan Gaben, u veličanstvenom spektaklu Son et lumière (Zvuk i svetlost), u zamku Šambor na Loari. Put kroz istoriju ove velike zemlje vodi, pored ostalog, i pričom o zamkovima na Loari, tom spomeniku lepote, kulture i prebogate istorije. Ima ih mnogo u dolini i oko doline te reke, većina je i dalje u privatnom vlasništvu, ali su, kao opšte dobro, otvoreni za posetioce. Na taj način ih vlasnici delimično održavaju. Alzas, Burgundija, Bretanja, Provansa, Azurna obala… Francuska se zaista ne može opisati na ovako malom prostoru, njome treba putovati polako i uroniti u sve njene čari. Da li je to vino, šampanjac, konjak, sirevi kojima se ne zna broj, sve su to pojmovi koje odmah povezujete sa Francuskom. Pariz, grad svetlosti, zahteva i dobija enciklopedije, almanahe i tomove opisa već stotinama godina; markizi, kraljevi, filozofi, pisci, klošari, slikari, revolucionari, legionari – svi se nalaze u tom vrtlogu koji je središte sveta, centar mode, parfema, luksuza, centar u koji dolazi i klanja mu se ceo svet, opčinjen njegovom lepotom. Bordo je centar vina, Marselj središte nautike i frankofonskog trećeg sveta, Strazbur centar Evrope, Nica centar uživanja, Kan centar filmskog glamura, Avinjon centar pozorišnog sveta. U Francuskoj su centri svega što je lepo u svetu, a ovde dovedeno do savršenstva. I zato putniče, prijatelju moj, nastavi svoje dugo putovanje ovom zemljom, upoznaj njenu umetnost i kulturu, pa možda nikada nećes želeti da iz nje odeš.

Novembar 1987.

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“Voyageur, mon ami! Traveller, my friend!” resounded the booming voice of a famous French actor, probably Jean Gabin in a magnificent spectacle Son et lumière (Sound and light) in Chambord Castle on the Loire. Travelling through the history of this great country takes us, amongst others, to the story of the Castles on the Loire, a monument to the beauty, culture and rich heritage. There are many castles in the valley of this river and around it, most of them are still private property, but they are open to visitors as an attraction. This way the owners get some funds for their upkeep. Alsace, Burgundy, Bretagne, Provence, Cote d’Azur… It is really impossible to describe France in such a small space, it should be explored and all its charms should be slowly savoured. Whether it is wine, champagne, cognac or cheese in their vast number of varieties, all of these are inextricably linked to France. Paris, the ’city of light’ has been demanding and getting encyclopeadias, almanachs and volumes of guidebooks for centuries; marquises, kings, philosophers, writers, beggars, painters, revolutionaries, legionaires, – they are all captured by this vortex, the centre of the world, the capital of fashion, perfume and luxury, the place where the whole world comes and bows to it, mesmerised by its beauty. Bordeaux is the centre of wine, Marseilles is a maritime hub and the centre of  the Francophone Third World, Strasbourg is the centre of Europe, Nice is the centre of indulgence, Cannes is the centre of film glamour, Avignon the centre of the theatrical world. In France you will find the centre of everything that is beautiful and here it is taken to perfection. And that’s why you should, my traveller friend, continue on your long voyage through this country, get to know its art and culture and maybe you will never want to leave it.

November 1987

 

Francuska Polinezija – French Polynesia – Polynésie française

 

Tradicionalni ples-Traditional dance

Tradicionalni ples-Traditional dance

U glavnom gradu Papeteu-In the capital Papeete

U glavnom gradu Papeteu-In the capital Papeete

Tahicanka na plantazi vanile-A Tahitian girl on vanilla plantation

Tahicanka na plantazi vanile-A Tahitian girl on vanilla plantation

Pre nedeljne mise-Before the Sunday mass

Pre nedeljne mise-Before the Sunday mass

Pijaca u Papeteu-A market in Papeete

Pijaca u Papeteu-A market in Papeete

Ostrvo Mo'orea-Mo'orea Island

Ostrvo Mo’orea-Mo’orea Island

Luksuzne sojenice kao hotelske sobe-Luxury stilt houses like hotel rooms

Luksuzne sojenice kao hotelske sobe-Luxury stilt houses like hotel rooms

Muzej Pola Gogena-Paul Gauguin Museum

Muzej Pola Gogena-Paul Gauguin Museum

Vidikovac-A viewpoint

Vidikovac-A viewpoint

Na nedeljnoj misi u crkvi-A Sunday mass in the church

Na nedeljnoj misi u crkvi-A Sunday mass in the church

Francuska Polinezija je stekla svetsku slavu najpoznatijeg egzotičnog utočišta zahvaljujući svojim ostrvima Tahiti i Bora Bora iz grupe Društvenih ostrva. Noćni klubovi, kokteli i diskoteke širom sveta nazivani su imenima ovih ostrva koja su skoro svima uvek bila daleki i nedostižni san, mesto gde se može pobeći od ostalog sveta i provesti život u tropskom raju. Jednom od najpoznatijih francuskih slikara taj san se ostvario krajem XIX veka. Zvao se Pol Gogen. Slikao je Tahićanke u odeći vatrenih boja i živeo među njima, daleko od impresionističkog Pariza tog vremena. Slikao je polinežansku prirodu svojim jedinstvenim i prepoznatljivim stilom, koji je proslavio ova ostrva. Tim ljudima slava ipak nije bila potrebna jer  oni su i tada, kao i danas, živeli jednostavno u svojoj lepoti, koje možda i nisu bili svesni. Pol Gogen im nije bio potreban, samo im je, svojom raskalašnom umetničkom prirodom, donosio nevolje. Danas su, ipak, ponosni na čuvenog slikara i u muzeju njegovog imena nadomak glavnog grada koji se naziva Papete, čuvaju uspomene na taj period Gogenovog života.

Kroz otvorene prozore belih kolonijalnih crkvi i katedrala dopiru zvuci nedeljnih misa. Svečano obučene žene, sa velikom belim šeširima, pevaju u horu ispod ventilatora koji se lagano i umorno obrću. Deca se raduju poziranju ispred kamera, jer je misa uvek ista, a stranci su drugačiji. Nama je, opet, misa drugačija jer više podseća na polinežansku zabavu, nego na crkveni obred.

Tahiti očarava na svakom koraku, kao i susedno ostrvo Morea ili udaljeno Bora Bora ili bilo koje u tom arhipelagu snova. Francuzi samo održavaju kolonijalni mir u narodu koji je i po prirodi miran. Taj narod bi svoju decu radije učio prirodnim zakonima nego što bi ih slao u školu da uče francuske zakone. Čak i kad se tamo daleko, u matici, održavaju izbori za francuskog predsednika, dok na Polinežane dođe red za glasanje, rezultati su, zbog vremenske razlike, već poznati. Njima je ionako svejedno. Poneka francuska nuklearna proba na jednom od najudaljenijih atola donese im toliko para, da neko vreme ne moraju misliti na budućnost.

Bar do sledeće probe.

Avgust 2003.

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French Polynesia has made its worldwide reputation as the most famous exotic refuge due to its islands of Tahiti and Bora Bora from the group of Society Islands. Night clubs, cocktails and discotheques all over the world were named after these islands that have always been a distant and unachievable dream, place where you can escape from the world and spend your life in a tropical paradise. One of the most famous French painters made that dream come true at the end of the 19th century. His name was Paul Gauguin. He painted Tahitian women in their clothes of fiery colours and lived among them, far away from the Impressionist Paris of that time. He painted the Polynesian nature in his unique and recognisable style, thus making these islands famous. However, those people did not need the fame, as they lived, much like they live today, in simple beauty that they may have not been aware of. They did not need Paul Gauguin, who with an artist’s erratic behaviour, only spelt trouble for them. Yet today they are proud of the big artist and they keep his memory alive at his museum close to the capital city Papeete.

Through the open windows of white colonial churches and cathedrals, you can hear the sound of the Sunday mass. Ladies dressed for this special occasion with big white hats, sing in a choir in front of the fans which turn slowly and lazily. The children love posing in front of the cameras, because the mass is always the same, but foreign visitors are always different. To us, however, the mass is different, because it resembles a Polynesian folk festival more than a religious ceremony.

Tahiti is fascinating at every step, and so is the neighbouring island of Morea, or the faraway one of Bora Bora, as are all the others in this archipelago of dreams. The French are keeping a colonial peace in a nation which is peaceful anyway. The people here would much rather teach their children some laws of nature than send them to school to learn the French law. Even when the French presidential elections are taking place on the mainland, until it is Polynesia’s turn to vote, the results are already known because of the time difference. But they do not care anyway. An occasional nuclear test by France on one of the most remote atolls brings them so much money that they do not have to think about the future for a while.

At least until the next nuclear test.

August 2003

 

Martinik –  Martinique

Bibliotheque Schoelcher

Bibliotheque Schoelcher

Borba petlova-Cock fighting

Borba petlova-Cock fighting

Crkva-Church Le Sacre Coeur de Martinique

Crkva-Church Le Sacre Coeur de Martinique

Destilerija ruma Depaz-Rum distillery Depaz

Destilerija ruma Depaz-Rum distillery Depaz

Katedrala San Luj- Saint Louis Cathedral

Katedrala San Luj- Saint Louis Cathedral

Pogled na San Pjer-A view of Saint-Pierre

Pogled na San Pjer-A view of Saint-Pierre

Ribarsko selo-Fishermen's village

Ribarsko selo-Fishermen’s village

Stara zgrada opstine For de Frans-Old municipality building of Fort-de-France

Stara zgrada opstine For de Frans-Old municipality building of Fort-de-France

Zgrada opstine u unutrasnjosti-Municipality building in the interior

Zgrada opstine u unutrasnjosti-Municipality building in the interior

Ovo raskošno tropsko ostrvo u Karibima, zajedno sa susednim ostrvom Gvadalupe  i polovinom ostrva San Martin (druga polovina pripada Holanđanima), predstavlja samo deo francuske kolonijalne imperije, sastavljene, pored ostalog, i od najlepših ostrva u raznim delovima sveta. Martinik uživa u svojoj kreolskoj lepoti, ali i u blagodetima civilizacije koje im matica zemlja pruža. Jedino se nove marke automobila nikako ne uklapaju u taj ambijent začina, domaćeg ruma, ron agricole de Martinique, i borbe petlova. U lutanju krivudavim putićima na ostrvu uživate u svemu do čega dopire pogled, bilo da je to lepa kreolka sa još lepšim detetom, stara fabrika mirisnog ruma ili patinirani ostatak francuske arhitekture iz XIX veka u nekom tropskom vrtu. Glavni grad Fort-de-France je staro utvrđenje, kao što mu i samo ime kaže, i u kome se nalaze zanimljive  zgrade u kolonijalnom stilu. Neke od njih su građene prema Ajfelovim nacrtima, kao što je Bibliothèque Schoelcher, koja je prikazana na Svetskoj izložbi u Parizu 1889. godine, a potom demontirana i brodom prenesena na Martinik. Nekoliko stilova ove biblioteke kao što su vizantijski, arapsko-egipatski i art nouveau odražavaju pravu arhitektonsku maštu s kraja XIX veka, ugrađenu u karipski ambijent.

Decembar 1995.
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This lush tropical island in the Caribbean, together with the neighbouring islands of Guadeloupe and half of the island of St Martin (the other half belongs to the Dutch) represents only part of the French colonial empire, which boasts, among other things, some of the most beautiful islands in various parts of the world. Martinique basks in its Creole beauty but also enjoys the benefits of a modern society from mainland France. However, the latest cars do not fit in with the world of spices, home-made rum, ron agricole de Martinique, and cock fights. While wandering down twisting  little roads you enjoy everything that the eye can behold on this island, from a beautiful Creole woman with an even more beautiful child, the old sweet smelling rum factory, or the remnants of the French architecture from the 19th century appearing in a tropical garden. The capital Fort-de-France, as it name says, is an old fortress with interesting buildings in the colonnial style. Some of them were built according to Eiffel’s design such as Bibliothèque Schoelcher,which was exhibited at the World Expo in Paris in 1889 and then deconstructed and shipped off to Martinique. Several architectrual styles of this library such as Byzantine, Arabic-Egyptian and art nouveau document the abundance of architectural imagination from the close of the 19th century, incorporated in the Caribbean surroundings.

December 1995

 

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