FINSKA – FINLAND – SUOMI

Saborna crkva-The Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral

Saborna crkva-The Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral

Zima u glavnom gradu-Midwinter in Helsinki

Zima u glavnom gradu-Midwinter in Helsinki

Finski rostilj-Finnish barbecue

Finski rostilj-Finnish barbecue

Helsinska katedrala-The Helsinki Cathedral

Helsinska katedrala-The Helsinki Cathedral

Letnji dan u unutrasnjosti Finske-Summer day in the interior of Finland

Letnji dan u unutrasnjosti Finske-Summer day in the interior of Finland

Katedrala u Turku je najvaznije sakralno zdanje u Finskoj-The Turku Cathedral is the most important religious building in Finland

Katedrala u Turku je najvaznije sakralno zdanje u Finskoj-The Turku Cathedral is the most important religious building in Finland

Turku (Abo na svedskom) je najstariji grad u zemlji-Turku (Abo in Swedish) is the oldest city in Finland

Turku (Abo na svedskom) je najstariji grad u zemlji-Turku (Abo in Swedish) is the oldest city in Finland

Slavlje na ulicama Helsinkija posto je Finska pobedila na Svetskom prvenstvu u hokeju na ledu 2011. godine- Celebration on the streets of Helsinki after Finland won Icehockey World Championship 2011

Slavlje na ulicama Helsinkija posto je Finska pobedila na Svetskom prvenstvu u hokeju na ledu 2011. godine- Celebration on the streets of Helsinki after Finland won Icehockey World Championship 2011

Proslava Praznika rada u Helsinkiju-Labour day celebration in Helsinki

Proslava Praznika rada u Helsinkiju-Labour day celebration in Helsinki

Pogled na Helsinki sa katedralom i Sabornom crkvom-A view of Helsinki with the Cathedral and the Uspenski church

Pogled na Helsinki sa katedralom i Sabornom crkvom-A view of Helsinki with the Cathedral and the Uspenski church

Helsinska katedrala u noci-The Helsinki Cathedral at night

Helsinska katedrala u noci-The Helsinki Cathedral at night

Poznata je kao zemlja dizajnera i mirotvoraca. Ovi drugi nisu se proslavili u donošenju mira. Naprotiv, njihovom pojavom rat se razbuktavao, a oni bili još uporniji u svojim misijama koje, bar mom narodu, nikakvog dobra nisu donele. Njihovom mirotvorcu, ipak – Nobelovu nagradu za mir.

U dizajnu su, međutim, mnogo uspešniji. Legenda finskog dizajna Tapio Virkala govorio je o nepisanim zakonima materijala prema kojima se ne sme biti grub, već održavati harmoniju sa njima. U sličnoj harmoniji Finci su oduvek živeli sa svojim moćnim susedima Šveđanima i Rusima, koji su tokom istorije neprestano ratovali, a Finci pripadali čas jednima, čas drugima, i sa svima bili u dobrim odnosima dok konačno nisu dobili nezavisnost, neposredno pred veliku Oktobarsku revoluciju.

U vreme hladnog rata svi filmovi o Lenjingradu snimali su se u Helsinkiju, glavnom gradu, koji još nazivaju Kći Baltika. Sličnost ili skoro istovetnost arhitekture tih gradova odraz je zajedničkog razvoja tokom novije istorije. Ta sličnost se ogleda i u arhitekturi luteranskih i pravoslavnih crkvi. Luteranska i Uspenska katedrala su monumentalne i nezaobilazne. Nemaju Finci u tom pogledu nikakvih predrasuda, pa se Helsinki naziva i Helsingfors na švedskom, i to kao originalno ime grada. Sagrađen u art nouveau, finskom jugendstilu, veoma je privlačan u svojoj jednostavnoj lepoti.

Finci definitivno prestaju da budu fini posle ukrcavanja na jedan od giganata Silja Line ili Viking Line brodskih kompanija, kada im, tokom noćne vožnje do nekog od susednih baltičkih gradova, alkohol obuzme sva čula. Vikinška krv prostruji, razređena litrima piva, dok se javlja neka nerazumljiva agresija i sve se to narednog jutra završava u nekoj sauni, koja je jedan od simbola ove zemlje. Verujem, ipak, da je na severu, u Laponiji, možda, sasvim drugačije, jer odatle, prema opštoj legendi, kreću novogodišnji i božićni pokloni.

Turku je najstariji grad i prva prestonica Finske početkom XIX veka, a upravo dok pišem ove redove, 28. novembra 2009. godine, postaje prvi i pravi Božićni grad. Samo godinu dana ranije, baš na rođendan mog mlađeg sina, 18. decembra 2008. ovde je pročitana deklaracija Božićnog mira.

Ovakav i ovoliki mir na ovim prostorima trebalo je malo razaslati svetu posredstvom Konferencije o evropskoj bezbednosti i saradnji, kao i čuvenih finskih mirotvoraca.

Bilo bi, ipak, mnogo bolje da su se držali svog dizajnerskog umeća.

Jul 2001.
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This country is famous for its designers and its peacemakers. The latter did not do well at peacemaking. On the contrary, their presence only made the war more intense and they were only more relentless in pursuing their mission which did not bring any good, at least to my people. Yet, their peacemaker got the Nobel Prize for peace.

However, in design they have been much more successful. The legendary Finnish designer, Tapio Wirkkala always used to mention, as an unspoken rule, that materials should not be treated roughly but that we should live in harmony with their natural traits. The Fins lived in similar harmony with their mighty neighbors, the Swedes and the Russians, who fought against each other incessantly throughout history and Finland belonged to one and then to the other, keeping good relations with everyone, until it finally got its independence before the Russian Revolution.

During the cold war, all films featuring Leningrad were filmed in Helsinki, the capital of Finland which is also called the Daughter of the Baltic. Similarity and even the sameness of the architecture of these two cities reflects their parallel development in recent history. This similarity is obvious in the architecture of the Lutheran and Orthodox churches too. Lutheran and Uspenski cathedrals are monumental and imposing. The Fins have no prejudice in that respect, so Helsinki is also called Helsingfors in Swedish, which is the city’s original name. Built in art nouveau style, or the Finnish jugendstil, Helsinki is very attractive in its simple beauty.

The Fins definitely lose their ‘finesse’ once they board on a gigantic Silja Line or Viking Line boats, as during such trips to one of the nearby Baltic cities alcohol takes over all their senses. The Viking blood is stirred into motion by litres of beer, an inexplicable aggression appears and then disappears the following morning in a sauna –one of the symbols of this country. I suspect that in the North, in Lapland, things are different, because according to a general belief this is the source of all Christmas presents sent around the world.

Turku is the oldest city and the original capital of Finland from the beginning of the 19th century and as I am writing these lines on 28th of November 2009, it becomes the first real Christmas city. Just a year ago, exactly on the birthday of my younger son, on the 18th of December 2008, the Christmas Peace Declaration was announced here.

This surplus of peace had to be distributed around the world through the European Conference on Security and Cooperation and via the famous Finnish peacemakers.

It would have been better though, if they stuck to their design expertise.

July 2001

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