FILIPINI – PHILIPPINES – PILIPINAS

Jeepneys -najpopularniji gradski prevoz-most popular public transportation

Jeepneys -najpopularniji gradski prevoz-most popular public transportation

Lokalna prodavnica-A local grocery store

Lokalna prodavnica-A local grocery store

Pijaca-A market place

Pijaca-A market place

Plaza na ostrvu Borakaj-Boracay island beach

Plaza na ostrvu Borakaj-Boracay island beach

Pogled na Manilu iz starog grada-A view of Manila from the old city

Pogled na Manilu iz starog grada-A view of Manila from the old city

Ukrasni fijaker za voznju po starom gradu-A decorative coach for the old city ride

Ukrasni fijaker za voznju po starom gradu-A decorative coach for the old city ride

Devojcica-A girl

Devojcica-A girl

Crkva Svetog Avgustina u Manili-San Agustin Church in Manila

Crkva Svetog Avgustina u Manili-San Agustin Church in Manila

Groblje americkih vojnika-American soldiers war cemetery

Groblje americkih vojnika-American soldiers war cemetery

Jeepneys-najpopularniji gradski prevoz-most popular public transportation

Jeepneys-najpopularniji gradski prevoz-most popular public transportation

Kapija tvrdjave Santjago u Manili-Fort Santiago gate in Manila

Kapija tvrdjave Santjago u Manili-Fort Santiago gate in Manila

Tropski raj-A tropical paradise

Tropski raj-A tropical paradise

Ova zemlja je dobila ime po španskom kralju Filipu II. Španci su ovde prvi
došli još početkom XVI veka i ujedinili brojna ostrva ovog tropskog
arhipelaga. Lokalne radže i sultane zamenili su španski kolonizatori, a
umesto tradicionalnih azijskih religija, dolaskom brojnih misonara, počinje
da preovladava hrišćanstvo. Iako danas na Filipinima skoro niko ne govori
španski jezik, jer su ih Amerikanci preuzeli i stavili pod svoj uticaj još
krajem XIX veka, skoro sva imena stanovnika i mesta ostala su španska.
Neizbrisivi trag te kolonijalne imprerije ostao je i ovde, kao i u južnoj
Americi.
Pri obilasku glavnog grada Manile zamišljao sam španske galije kako odavde
polaze za Akapulko, koji je tada bio pomorski centar Nove Španije.
Špansko-američkim ratom i Pariskim sporazumom iz 1898. godine Španci su
izgubili sve teritorije na Pacifiku i Filipine ustupili Amerikancima za
dvadeset miliona dolara.
Jednog vrelog i vlažnog popodneva lutao sam između patiniranih zidina
španskog vojnog utvrđenja iz XVI veka Fuerza de Santiago ili na Filipino
jeziku, Moog ng Santiago, koje je smešteno unutar jednog dela starog grada
koji se tako i naziva, Intramuros ili, u prevodu, “unutar zidina”. Ovo mesto
podseća na burnu prošlost ove nacije; drvena palata radže Sulejmana nalazila
se na mestu gde je sada ovo utvrđenje, dok je Španci nisu spalili za vreme
tri stotine godina svoje surove vladavine. O tome svedoči veliki spomenik
filipinskom narodnom heroju Hozeu Risalu. Bio je očni lekar, poliglota koji
je govorio više od dvadeset jezika, pisac i veliki patriota, koga su
pogubile španske kolonijalne vlasti samo nekoliko godina pre povlačenja sa
Filipina. Imao je svega trideset pet godina. Sa utvrđenja se pruža pogled na
moderan deo grada.
Skoro sto godina kasnije, politički ekstravagantna Imelda Markos, prva dama,
a zatim i poslanik, supruga tadašnjeg diktatora ove zemlje, dospeva u
novinske članke širom sveta. Posle promene vlasti, u predsedničkoj palati
nađeno je 2700 pari njenih cipela, koje je danas ona smestila u svoj
privatni muzej. Ponosna je na njih, jer smatra da promoviše domaću
proizvodnju obuće tako što se muzej nalazi u centru kvarta te industrije u
Manili.
Filipini su arhipelag sa više od sedam hiljada ostrva, od kojih mnoga imaju
bele peščane plaže, koje se ubrajaju među najlepše na svetu. Jedna od njih
naziva se Borakaj, a nalazi se na istoimenom ostrvu. Vožnja motornim
triciklima i pešačenje plažama jedini su načini za obilazak ovog ostrva
izuzetne prirodne lepote. Uživanje u bungalovima na plaži pri zalasku sunca
ili u druženju sa filipinskom dečicom, koja uče engleski od stranaca dok se
bezbrižno igraju u sunčevom odsjaju u vodi, čini nezaboravni utisak.
Divlja lepota nekih malih i nenaseljenih ostrva dovela je na snimanje u ove
krajeve ekipe serijala Survivor. Tropski doživljaj ovde dobija drugu
dimenziju u kojoj se prirodne lepote često pretvaraju u noćnu moru za
učesnike Robinzone. Dve strane jedne lepe prirode i dve strane čovekove
prirode, koja je odlučna da preživi u uslovima u kojima im se ne pruža bilo
kakva tropska ugodnost, već, naprotiv, samo tropska divljina.
U takvim trenucima često pomislim na to kako je bilo prvim osvajačima. I
odmah prestajem da se žalim na smeštaj.

Septembar 2002.
________________________________________________________

This country was named after the Spanish King Philip II. The Spaniards
arrived here first, as early as the beginning of the 16th century and they
unified the numerous islands of this tropical archipelago. The local rajas
and sultans were replaced by the Spanish colonisers, and the traditional
Asian religions gradually gave way to Christianity which numerous
missionaries who had just arrived were preaching. Even though today almost
no one speaks Spanish in this country, because the Americans took them under
their wing and put them under their influence at the end of the 19th
century, almost all the personal names as well as place names have remained
Spanish. This colonial empire has left its indelible mark here, same as in
Latin America.
While sightseeing in Manila, I was imagining Spanish galleons leaving this
port on their way to Acapulco which was at the time the maritime centre of
New Spain. As a result of the Spanish-American war and the Paris treaty of
1898, the Spaniards lost all the territories in the Pacific and ceded the
Philippines to the Americans for 20 million dollars.
On a hot humid afternoon I wandered around the old walls of the Spanish
fortress from the 16th century, Fuerza de Santiago or in the Philippino
language, Moog ng Santiago, situated inside the old city in the part called
Intramuros or literally ‘inside the walls’. This place reminds us of the
eventful past of this nation; here, instead of the Spanish fortress there
used to be Raja Suleiman’s wooden palace, until the Spanish burnt it down
during the 300 years of their brutal rule. This is documented with the huge
monument to the national hero José Rizal. He was an eye doctor, a polyglot
who spoke more than 20 languages, a writer and a patriot. He was executed by
the Spanish colonialists just a few years before they actually left the
Philipines. He was only 35 years old. From that fort there is view over the
modern part of the city.
Almost a hundred years later, politically extravagant Imelda Marcos, the
First Lady and then a member of the Parliament, and the wife of the then
dictator Marcos, gets worldwide media attention. After the change of power,
2700 pairs of her shoes were found which she has moved to her private
museum. She is proud of them as she believes that she is promoting the local
footwear industry and her museum is situated at the heart of this industrial
quarter in Manila.
The Philippines is an archipelago with more than 7000 islands, many of which
have white sandy beaches, amongst the most beautiful in the world. One of
them is called Boracay and is situated on an island with the same name.
Riding motor tricycles or walking along sandy beaches are the only ways to
see this island of outstanding natural beauty. Enjoying the sunset in the
bungalows on the beach or enjoying the company of the Philippine kids who
learn English from the tourists while happily playing the in the sun
reflecting sea, are truly exotic experiences.
Wild beauty of some of the smaller, uninhabited islands attracted the crew
of the Survivor reality show. The tropical experience then gets a different
dimension where the natural beauties turn into a nightmare for the Robinson
Crusoe type contestants. We see two sides of the tropical beauty and two
sides of the human nature which has resolved to survive in the conditions
where there are no amenities, but to the contrary, only tropical wilderness.

In those moments I start to think about how the first explorers and
conquerors felt. And immediately, I stop complaining about the quality of
accommodation.

September 2002

Leave a Reply